Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
#1751
Chorner,
I used different servos than the manual recommended. I used Spektrum A5040 servos. A little bigger, but the outer one fits into the opening on the wing panel when you slide it on, so no issues there. As far as flutter, they just seemed a little jerky when opening or closing, but I also had them slowed way down via servo speed on the transmitter, so that might of had something to do with it. I don't think he's (my customer) had any problems with the doors as I'm sure I would have heard about it from him. I didn't do any reinforcing of the doors at all, just CAREFULLY heated them with a hot air gun to get them to conform to the shape of the wing.
I used different servos than the manual recommended. I used Spektrum A5040 servos. A little bigger, but the outer one fits into the opening on the wing panel when you slide it on, so no issues there. As far as flutter, they just seemed a little jerky when opening or closing, but I also had them slowed way down via servo speed on the transmitter, so that might of had something to do with it. I don't think he's (my customer) had any problems with the doors as I'm sure I would have heard about it from him. I didn't do any reinforcing of the doors at all, just CAREFULLY heated them with a hot air gun to get them to conform to the shape of the wing.
#1752
My Feedback: (1)
As for the primer and paint, I have purchased all of the Klasscote products to finish it. I will let you know if it works for me, but I am staying the course on this one for now. But, thanks for the feedback and advice.
The flaps are done as far as filling the gaps. I still have to fiberglass several small pieces. I am stacking them up and will do them in one or two sittings. They turned out very nice. Now I will be fixing the gear doors that were cut down, putting in the sonictronic hinges, correct the gaps and holes, and they will be back to where they need to be and clean.
A little warm weather and on to primer and paint.
The flaps are done as far as filling the gaps. I still have to fiberglass several small pieces. I am stacking them up and will do them in one or two sittings. They turned out very nice. Now I will be fixing the gear doors that were cut down, putting in the sonictronic hinges, correct the gaps and holes, and they will be back to where they need to be and clean.
A little warm weather and on to primer and paint.
#1753
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Location: WI
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Just finished up the flap assembly
and landing gear cover
Other then the rubber band what's another way to attach the strut to the cover.
and landing gear cover
Other then the rubber band what's another way to attach the strut to the cover.
Last edited by Thomas Schultz; 04-01-2015 at 04:55 AM.
#1755
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Hi Thomas.
This is what I did,just added a former to the back of the oleo door ( this ensures that the door stays central on the oleo strut,when extended )...a "oleo guide",you can see the "black elastic" ( also use this for aerials on aircraft ).........can get it in various thickness.just two holes drilled either side of the oleo in the guide and the black elastic threaded through and knotted to secure..............slides a "treat" up the oleo strut,during operation.........because it is "fabric" covered,it is not "sticky" like the rubberband would be to the oleo surface.
May give you an idea..?
Your "woodwork" looks just the job............as usual...
Kind regards...............Nick (UK).
This is what I did,just added a former to the back of the oleo door ( this ensures that the door stays central on the oleo strut,when extended )...a "oleo guide",you can see the "black elastic" ( also use this for aerials on aircraft ).........can get it in various thickness.just two holes drilled either side of the oleo in the guide and the black elastic threaded through and knotted to secure..............slides a "treat" up the oleo strut,during operation.........because it is "fabric" covered,it is not "sticky" like the rubberband would be to the oleo surface.
May give you an idea..?
Your "woodwork" looks just the job............as usual...
Kind regards...............Nick (UK).
Last edited by njmheli; 04-01-2015 at 06:13 AM.
#1757
Hi Thomas.
This is what I did,just added a former to the back of the oleo door ( this ensures that the door stays central on the oleo strut,when extended )...a "oleo guide",you can see the "black elastic" ( also use this for aerials on aircraft ).........can get it in various thickness.just two holes drilled either side of the oleo in the guide and the black elastic threaded through and knotted to secure..............slides a "treat" up the oleo strut,during operation.........because it is "fabric" covered,it is not "sticky" like the rubberband would be to the oleo surface.
May give you an idea..?
Your "woodwork" looks just the job............as usual...
Kind regards...............Nick (UK).
This is what I did,just added a former to the back of the oleo door ( this ensures that the door stays central on the oleo strut,when extended )...a "oleo guide",you can see the "black elastic" ( also use this for aerials on aircraft ).........can get it in various thickness.just two holes drilled either side of the oleo in the guide and the black elastic threaded through and knotted to secure..............slides a "treat" up the oleo strut,during operation.........because it is "fabric" covered,it is not "sticky" like the rubberband would be to the oleo surface.
May give you an idea..?
Your "woodwork" looks just the job............as usual...
Kind regards...............Nick (UK).
Thanks for that idea, I think I'll use it on my build.
#1759
What're the "black elastics" you're using? They kind of look like women's hair elastics...? I like that idea better than the rubber bands as those tend to deteriorate faster in my experience too. Thomas, I like your setup there! I may change mine around to be more like yours.
It's kind of a poor oversight on Hangar 9's behalf, not including a piece or generally not accounting for the fact that as the oleo compresses, it will hit the tip of the strut cover if it's not shimmed outwards from the strut.
It's kind of a poor oversight on Hangar 9's behalf, not including a piece or generally not accounting for the fact that as the oleo compresses, it will hit the tip of the strut cover if it's not shimmed outwards from the strut.
#1761
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I finally got to the point of attaching the wing to the fuselage in order to mount the stab and check for alignment. Well, has anyone else had a bit of trouble with the wing dowel alignment? Not sure whether to sand the carbon fiber dowels or slightly enlarge the nylon dowel pockets. Advice welcome - been a busy week and didn't need this to dampen my Corsair "spirits".
#1763
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Ted, I was recently presented with the exact same dilemma and I did a little bit of work with a file on the nylon bushings to make them a little larger and sandpaper on the CF dowls to make them fit well in the bushings. The wing fits good now, Hoping it all works out well..
#1765
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Gentleman- I have the Robart air retracts, and I am having trouble with one side. It hangs up ever so slightly, regardless of air pressure. All I have to do is tap it and it comes free and the gear leg comes down. Happens when upright or inverted while sitting on the bench. The gear is new, but was purchased some time ago and has been sitting. Anybody have an idea or solution they can share with me?
Thanks!
Brian
Thanks!
Brian
#1766
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Gentleman- I have the Robart air retracts, and I am having trouble with one side. It hangs up ever so slightly, regardless of air pressure. All I have to do is tap it and it comes free and the gear leg comes down. Happens when upright or inverted while sitting on the bench. The gear is new, but was purchased some time ago and has been sitting. Anybody have an idea or solution they can share with me?
#1767
Gentleman- I have the Robart air retracts, and I am having trouble with one side. It hangs up ever so slightly, regardless of air pressure. All I have to do is tap it and it comes free and the gear leg comes down. Happens when upright or inverted while sitting on the bench. The gear is new, but was purchased some time ago and has been sitting. Anybody have an idea or solution they can share with me?
Thanks!
Brian
Thanks!
Brian
There is a pin gliding back and forth in there. Thats the one.
Lubrication allways helps on mechanical parts.
#1768
My Feedback: (6)
bjohnson80,
Have you checked to make sure the top of the pin on the rotation ball isn't rubbing the top wing skin. there are some shims in the kit for this issue. I didn't realize it at the beginning of the gear install and i put a small hole in my wing due to this. If that's not the issue then you have an O-ring leak which is letting air blow by inside the cylinder. Get some O-ring lube from Dream-works or Bvm and inject that into the air system it should cure the issue.
Have you checked to make sure the top of the pin on the rotation ball isn't rubbing the top wing skin. there are some shims in the kit for this issue. I didn't realize it at the beginning of the gear install and i put a small hole in my wing due to this. If that's not the issue then you have an O-ring leak which is letting air blow by inside the cylinder. Get some O-ring lube from Dream-works or Bvm and inject that into the air system it should cure the issue.
#1769
Hey guys, anyone have an issue with the Robart electric tailwheel actuator?
I've yet to take the bloody thing up in the air (aside from trying to get a replacement right outer flap as mine was supplied crooked as a dogs hind leg in the box), and I was cycling the retracts as a test and "bam", I noticed some strange noises coming from the electric retracts and sure enough the "great" quality of Robart shines again... the plastic housing snapped in half on the actuator. So much for "amp out" circuitry, either that or the plastic housing is extremely weak.
Anyone know of any metal cases for these, or other solutions you guys have used?
I've yet to take the bloody thing up in the air (aside from trying to get a replacement right outer flap as mine was supplied crooked as a dogs hind leg in the box), and I was cycling the retracts as a test and "bam", I noticed some strange noises coming from the electric retracts and sure enough the "great" quality of Robart shines again... the plastic housing snapped in half on the actuator. So much for "amp out" circuitry, either that or the plastic housing is extremely weak.
Anyone know of any metal cases for these, or other solutions you guys have used?
#1770
My Feedback: (45)
Gentleman- I have the Robart air retracts, and I am having trouble with one side. It hangs up ever so slightly, regardless of air pressure. All I have to do is tap it and it comes free and the gear leg comes down. Happens when upright or inverted while sitting on the bench. The gear is new, but was purchased some time ago and has been sitting. Anybody have an idea or solution they can share with me?
Thanks!
Brian
Thanks!
Brian
#1771
My Feedback: (46)
Has anyone used the Saito FG-60R3 in their Corsair and if so what were the results?
Are there any other retract options besides the Robarts? I tried emailing Sierra because I thought I saw someone mention they made a set that's not on their website but I didn't get a response.
Are there any other retract options besides the Robarts? I tried emailing Sierra because I thought I saw someone mention they made a set that's not on their website but I didn't get a response.
#1772
My Feedback: (41)
Darrel isn't very good at answering emails, call him. The gear he has is actually built for a P-40 model but it works in the Corsair. Check back in the thread a bit and my builder posted the information on the changes needed to install the Sierra gear. Another guy on this thread put the Sierras in his which is what gave me the idea to contact Sierra but I don't remember how much detail he gives on the install. This Sierra gear is actually less money, (IIRC it was about $450.00) than the Robarts and there's no comparison between the two gear sets when it comes to construction or quality. That price does not include a tailwheel, I used the Robart version sold by Horizon for this model as I already had the complete Robart gear when I decided to go with the Sierras. The Sierras do not come painted however, so if you want the white color of the Robarts, you'll have to paint 'em.
Last edited by Zeeb; 04-07-2015 at 08:13 PM.