kwik

Are they delivering the FG-90 with a completely dry crankcase, just like the FG.-84 ?

If so, it might be smart to inject, say, 20ml oil into the cranckcase before first startup, and turn it a few times, to make the oil spread out........

ForcesR

Yes they are Kwik. Here are the photos of the internal workings of the FG90R3; as you can see there is no lubrication, the crankcase is bone dry including the master rod and linked conrod connections. The master rod has the bronze bushing. I recommend before anyone who has this engine to inject lube oil into the crankcase before starting the engine for the break-in procedure. The fuel delivery manifold is totally different from the FG-84.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I'm expecting mine to show up tomorrow. Is there a way to get oil into the crankcase without disassembling the motor?

Also, where are you guys getting the little tachometers from?

ForcesR

You can inject oil into the crankcase through the crankcase vent nipple.

kwik

Use one of those plastic expendable syringes, and thread a tube over the crankcase nipple....

If you dont, the engine's parts in the cranckcase will be forced to move completely dry in there for several seconds. Can you imagine whats going on in there....

The thing is; There is a certain variation in piston-cylinder tightness from cylinder to cylinder.....

So, on some engines, if all 3 cylinders are very tight....there will be next to no lubrication in the cranckcase for a long time.

On others, if e.g. all 3 cylinders has a not so tight fit, there will be much better lubrication.

I had one engine, where you could hear the very distinctive ticking from the not-lubricated valves. (An FG-57). The other FG-57 was very well lubricated....... After injecting oil into the crankcase the ticking sound disappeared.

Marguet28

Thanks I will add some oil before first start better than rebuild the engine...thanks for advice

ForcesR

Here is the link to the Saito video on the proper procedures for adjusting the HSN & LSN for the initial break-in run for Saito radials.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esGaEm9GUhk

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Engine showed up today, boy is it pretty lookin!

kevarc

My Feedback: (2)

Got the second break-in tank through the engine today.
Also ran it for a few minutes at the normal needle settings.
Sweet!
Now on to adjusting the tappets and fine tuning.
Running out of excuses may have to fly soon!

Sekhet

My Feedback: (1)

You know, I do the same thing, I'll fiddle, tinker and tune on an airplane till I run out of excuses to not to maiden it, then after the first flight I ask myself, "Why did I wait so Long?"

Marguet28

Hi,

I loose the axle (screws) from the main gear robart to fhold the wheels, could someody give me the size of them (in metric)
There are any washers or nuts?


Thank you

kwik

I think it is 1/4 inch. Its Robart, so it isnt metric.

Marguet28

Just try the ear Robart receive 3 weeks ago with the fancy Robart wheels. The legg is 6 mm too long... Thank you Robart!!!! Does someone had the same problem? It seems that I received a gear with a new leeg (colar with 2 screw)

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like the lower anti-torque collar has some room to slide down the strut. Should get you close.

frisconick

If I remember, I had to mill out some area just behind the LE so the mounting flanges would be further forward, along with adjusting the collar as CRG said.

Marguet28

Thank you after 4 shops in Geneva I found the key in inch and pull the collar to the maximum on the leg. It works 😊

The more I look to those gears the more I wonder how I could have spent 700 usd in them....more or less the price of the kit

kevarc

My Feedback: (2)

Hoping to maiden the Corsair this weekend!
I put about 2 lbs of lead in the front of the cowl when I was going to use the FG60.
After installing the FG90 the CG is right in the middle of the given range.
I checked the CG using scales and was going to double check it with the Venessa rig I have.
It was not big enough for the Corsair and the dowel broke dropping the plane about 3 inches.
No damage.
Have all the control throws set per the instructions.
I noticed that the tail wheel steering wired were loose and turned out the nuts were loose so I tightened them up and put some lock tight on them.
Aired up the retracts to cycle them one more time.
The main gear worked fine but the tail wheel did not retract.
On closer inspection I found out why the steering wires were loose.
Apparently when it dropped the sliding portion of the retract gave and bent.
Tried to straighten it but cannot get it to operate smoothly.
Ordered an new tail wheel, glad they are only $56!
Should have it in a couple of days.
In the meantime I will go back over the covering and remove what wrinkles I can.
Kevin

DUCMOZ

Hi all, I am starting my corsair and have a couple of questions. where did you get your lights for it from and for those that changed the decals, where you can get the better stuff? Thanks for your help.

Behzad

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I used the Eflite LED's called out in the manual and they seem really bright. In broad daylight I'm sure you probably can't see them anyway, but for flying close to dusk I think they would be great. The guy that did my vynil I heard isn't doing it anymore but I think someone mentioned Cajun RC will do it.

wfahey415

I went with the Electro Dynamics lights. Super bright! I also used Callie Graphics to upgrade the decals.

DUCMOZ

thank you for your replies. I am familiar with Electro Dynamic systems and Callie Graphics.

thanks again. Behzad

luckymacy

Well, I thought I had read that about a minute and a half was your first run duration. Same thing happened to me yesterday on the very first run ever. Just like with my FG-60, it easily started up initially immediately and sounded great. Let it run for a few seconds at a fast idle then started to slowly increase RPMs up to around 5000 where it eventually just died very quickly at about 5000 rpm as I was reaching for my tiny screw driver to start to richen it up more. It didn't want to turn over, as if it was locked up. I just left it alone for a bit then went back and this time the prop turned through by hand fine. But it refuses to run no matter what I've tried. It doesn't have a 'metallic' or clacking noise coming from the inside so it's not obvious something broke free. What it does do is you can see 'hot vapor' coming out of the carb stack and it'll pop but won't run no matter what follow on carb settings and throttle positions I've tried. I pulled all 3 plugs and verified the ignition system still fires on all 3. I tried multiple 2s LiPo batteries and even tried 2 different fuel tanks. No difference. So it goes back to Horizon.

wfahey415

I have the FG60 in a Zero and the FG84 in a H9 Corsair. Both have been worked over by Ray English. Both run great! I run them at 17:1 using Cool Power synthetic at Ray's suggestion. Very messy but well lubricated too.

ForcesR

Lucky, sounds like a few timing teeth sheared from the crank causing the intake valves to be partially open during the compression stroke. Did you do any pre-lubrication before initial break-in run? Did you lube the rocker arms, push rod tubes, crankcase, etc.?

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Slight THREAD drift back to the airframe......I lost my 8th canopy today, love the sliding canopy but hate buying new ones, anyone have a fix that will keep the sliding canopy attached? (I know I could glue on the non sliding canopy) how about a good source for some canopy rails?

Thanks!

150+ flights over 3 years,,,,,,,still going strong, G-62- Robert Air retracts.