Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
#577
My Feedback: (65)
I'd love to get more details on your H9-60cc Corsair flight experience as com paired to your other Corsairs.
- Aircraft weight?
- What prop did you use on your DLE-55?
- How did it fly as compared to you previous Corsairs?
- Power to weight?
- Responsiveness?
- Approach/Landing techniques?
Scott
#578
HI ALL Not much progress but some is better than none.My 777 was ordered awhile ago but hasnt turned up yet.prob after xmas.
Iv'e painted the retracts including the tail wheel..started on the cockpit, setup sliding canopy.
I would like some opions on a dull finish.My intention is to have finished the aircraft as a in service fighter.
Iv'e painted the retracts including the tail wheel..started on the cockpit, setup sliding canopy.
I would like some opions on a dull finish.My intention is to have finished the aircraft as a in service fighter.
#580
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I was using a 23x8 Xoar. The dry weight is 32lbs. Low Aileron rate seemed too low. Start on Mid. Can't really comment on much more after one flight and a belly landing. All the gear went back to Robart for test and repair.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#582
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Gentlemen, we have been airborne.
AUW @ 13,2kg
All throws Mid rate (Aileron high rate)
Flies brilliantly, CG @ 120mm can go back a bit.
Broke the cam follower on the Robarts on touchdown so only one flight.
Have to get it fixed quick. I really want to fly this bird before snow again!
Rev
AUW @ 13,2kg
All throws Mid rate (Aileron high rate)
Flies brilliantly, CG @ 120mm can go back a bit.
Broke the cam follower on the Robarts on touchdown so only one flight.
Have to get it fixed quick. I really want to fly this bird before snow again!
Rev
#584
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Nick,
thanks. I ended up with the 22x12 Mejzlik. It has the best transition and turns 5.800 on the ground slightly rich. If you want more speed and a quicker landing approach, try a 22x14 or 21x14. I like the 22x12 because it slows the corsair nicely when you reduce throttle.
Rev
thanks. I ended up with the 22x12 Mejzlik. It has the best transition and turns 5.800 on the ground slightly rich. If you want more speed and a quicker landing approach, try a 22x14 or 21x14. I like the 22x12 because it slows the corsair nicely when you reduce throttle.
Rev
#586
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Hi Guys.
I guess all the builds are going well..?
I've been a little behind with mine,but back on with the build now :-)
I decided to go the "two-servo" route for the flaps,I also found out that on my "centre-section"of the wing,the guide tube for the Flap Torque rod had been "set" incorrectly during manufacture..............can't do any thing about that,so it has left me with a slightly out of line torque rod drive to the inner flap................meaning as it rotates to lower or raise the flaps it pivots off the centre-line and gives the impression it is moving up and down aswell as round !!!
The "plywood" used in the centre wing construction is very,very soft,so in order to mount the servos,additional "hard" ply was bonded to both sides of the soft ply,with the soft ply being sandwiched in the middle.
But all is working well enough...............I am using Spektrum 6030 servos on all except the throttle and also using a 12Ch Tx / "cockpit Rx" set up.............hoping to use the in-built gear/door sequencer for the six Micro servos for the gear doors.( May be able to do a mechanical set up for the tail wheel doors as I did on my P-47??)
I have checked the current draw on the servos for the flaps at full and mid points ( 0.2AMAX at max throw during transition to 50 /70mm,then down to 0.00A when servo at stop)....for my set up I will be using about 35mm for mid and 50mm for full flap ( I can easily get 70mm,but with my geometry decided to stay at 50mm for the time being).
I also added 3mm to the "middle" flap between it and the inner flap as I thought that the gap looked too big
I also found out that someone in China got a bit carried away with the thread lock on all my supplied clevis/ball link,hence all solid and rotating in the plastic,not as they should !!! I threw them in the bin and purchased Du-Bro #3365 Heavy duty clevis with 4-40 ball link ( 8/32)...........lovely quality...perfect !!!
I also used on the flap mechanism H9 HAN3557 4-40 x 5" Titanium Pro-Links.
So on with the build !!!!
Regards.................Nick (UK)
Oh..............If your using the pylon release,worth checking that the pin moves all the way back when operated,otherwise your payload may hang-up. ( one of my release mechanisms need some attention as the pin had not been fitted fully "home" in the moving housing )
I guess all the builds are going well..?
I've been a little behind with mine,but back on with the build now :-)
I decided to go the "two-servo" route for the flaps,I also found out that on my "centre-section"of the wing,the guide tube for the Flap Torque rod had been "set" incorrectly during manufacture..............can't do any thing about that,so it has left me with a slightly out of line torque rod drive to the inner flap................meaning as it rotates to lower or raise the flaps it pivots off the centre-line and gives the impression it is moving up and down aswell as round !!!
The "plywood" used in the centre wing construction is very,very soft,so in order to mount the servos,additional "hard" ply was bonded to both sides of the soft ply,with the soft ply being sandwiched in the middle.
But all is working well enough...............I am using Spektrum 6030 servos on all except the throttle and also using a 12Ch Tx / "cockpit Rx" set up.............hoping to use the in-built gear/door sequencer for the six Micro servos for the gear doors.( May be able to do a mechanical set up for the tail wheel doors as I did on my P-47??)
I have checked the current draw on the servos for the flaps at full and mid points ( 0.2AMAX at max throw during transition to 50 /70mm,then down to 0.00A when servo at stop)....for my set up I will be using about 35mm for mid and 50mm for full flap ( I can easily get 70mm,but with my geometry decided to stay at 50mm for the time being).
I also added 3mm to the "middle" flap between it and the inner flap as I thought that the gap looked too big
I also found out that someone in China got a bit carried away with the thread lock on all my supplied clevis/ball link,hence all solid and rotating in the plastic,not as they should !!! I threw them in the bin and purchased Du-Bro #3365 Heavy duty clevis with 4-40 ball link ( 8/32)...........lovely quality...perfect !!!
I also used on the flap mechanism H9 HAN3557 4-40 x 5" Titanium Pro-Links.
So on with the build !!!!
Regards.................Nick (UK)
Oh..............If your using the pylon release,worth checking that the pin moves all the way back when operated,otherwise your payload may hang-up. ( one of my release mechanisms need some attention as the pin had not been fitted fully "home" in the moving housing )
Last edited by njmheli; 11-18-2013 at 11:51 AM.
#587
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Hi Rev.
I am still on the 3Blade set up,and will probably go back to a 22 x 10 3Blade as I know I can get around 5400 to 5600 ish then richen..I have done more ground runs with the 22 X 12,but at best only 5000 to 5200 Max....still think that this will be enough to try after the maiden with the lower pitch 3 Blade prop.
What exactly broke on the "robarts"....? A few issues with these at the moment...mine still in the box with the wheels on !!!
As Cristian asks.....what did you think of the power available..?
Regards....Nick (UK)
I am still on the 3Blade set up,and will probably go back to a 22 x 10 3Blade as I know I can get around 5400 to 5600 ish then richen..I have done more ground runs with the 22 X 12,but at best only 5000 to 5200 Max....still think that this will be enough to try after the maiden with the lower pitch 3 Blade prop.
What exactly broke on the "robarts"....? A few issues with these at the moment...mine still in the box with the wheels on !!!
As Cristian asks.....what did you think of the power available..?
Regards....Nick (UK)
#590
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The Power with the 7-77 is absolutely adequate for nice scale flying with a litte reserve. Not much, but enough to be able to save a messed up landing. Winter is coming fast and I am not sure, if I will be able to get another flight in.
The little fork, that turns the oleos broke. Seems like a problem that is not uncommon because Belair for example sells a hop up part.
http://www.belairkits.com/detail.asp?id=697
I have glued it with high power industrial glue (Endfest 300) under 180C and it should hold up. Ordererd the Hop Up anyhow.
So I could go flying on Saturday, but theres snowflakes all over the weather chart
Rev
The little fork, that turns the oleos broke. Seems like a problem that is not uncommon because Belair for example sells a hop up part.
http://www.belairkits.com/detail.asp?id=697
I have glued it with high power industrial glue (Endfest 300) under 180C and it should hold up. Ordererd the Hop Up anyhow.
So I could go flying on Saturday, but theres snowflakes all over the weather chart
Rev
#592
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Ok, so I start working on the gear doors, I'm using Robart's electric retracts and an EMS Jomar gear door sequencer. I operate the gear, the door servo cycles first, then the gear retract. Flip the switch back, the gear extend, then the doors cycle. I figure, OK, just flip pin #2 in the sequencer, reverse the servo, should be fine. Nope. Door servo still cycles first. I've read in other forums where it seems the sequencer doesn't recognize the electric retracts. Experiment time...plug in two normal servos (as if for air operated retracts and for the doors), hit the switch, and guess what....all works fine. Gear retracts, then door servo operates. In reverse, door servo operates, then gear comes down. Has anyone figured out how to overcome this challenge? I'm using a JR12X, and although it has a door sequencing option, all that does is make the gear door servo operate really slow on the close. I actually want a delay, then doors close. Has anyone had any success with any of the gear door sequencers working with the Robart electric retracts? I know I have the option of putting the doors on a separate channel, but I don't necessarily want to have to remember to flip two switches during the retract sequence.
Also, anyone know when the wheels are coming off of backorder? It's a bit hard setting up the gear/doors without knowing how much room the wheels/tires will take up in the wheel well....
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
Also, anyone know when the wheels are coming off of backorder? It's a bit hard setting up the gear/doors without knowing how much room the wheels/tires will take up in the wheel well....
Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
#595
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Snobird,
I finally gave up on the sequencer, and did just as you suggested...tied the gear and an aux channel to the flight mode switch (on the JR12X just in front of the retract switch). Spent quite a while trying to figure out how to make that 3 position switch work and a call to my brother. Finally got it so when I flip the switch to position 1 the gear retract, position 2 the doors close. On the reverse, position 1 opens the doors and position 0 extends the gear. I'm not sure at this point if the electrics are worth all this trouble. Seems much easier to do gear door sequencing with air operated retracts... :-)
I suppose I should just do as my brother suggested, get rid of the 12X and get a DX18...the door sequencing programming on that guy is much better...go figure....
I finally gave up on the sequencer, and did just as you suggested...tied the gear and an aux channel to the flight mode switch (on the JR12X just in front of the retract switch). Spent quite a while trying to figure out how to make that 3 position switch work and a call to my brother. Finally got it so when I flip the switch to position 1 the gear retract, position 2 the doors close. On the reverse, position 1 opens the doors and position 0 extends the gear. I'm not sure at this point if the electrics are worth all this trouble. Seems much easier to do gear door sequencing with air operated retracts... :-)
I suppose I should just do as my brother suggested, get rid of the 12X and get a DX18...the door sequencing programming on that guy is much better...go figure....
#597
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Using the flap switch for the flaps...three positions, up, mid and full....gotta love full flaps on a corsair... It will be a bit different this time using the Flight Mode switch for the gear/doors, but at least it's a switch that's close to where the gear switch is... :-)
#598
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I guess I don't understand why you are using flight mode switch, why didn't you mix gear switch and the aux channel. So one switch movement does everything, just select the proper timing for doors and gear ?
#600
Keep playing with the 12x settings, will be a lot less expensive than replacing the TX. I have the 12X myself and it does so many things I have yet learned out how to do. You should be able to mix one switch with two settings.