Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
#976
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I have to chime in as well. It was great seeing you and the other Horizon guys flying the Corsairs at FDL. I think you sold some product there. I'm close to jumping in on the H9 Corsair myself. Love the fact the G62 with spring starter is a good powerplant for it and sure pulled them around nice. Did you need to add and weight for balance?
Make sure and return next year, I suspect there may be some more H9 Corsairs on the flightline.
PS, keep the dirt out of your muffler stack...
#977
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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You'll love the Corsair.
Yes there is nose weight in mine. Its a scale outline so its going to need some nose weight. Just par for the course with a warbird. But, I dont think the weight hurts the performance.
Yes there is nose weight in mine. Its a scale outline so its going to need some nose weight. Just par for the course with a warbird. But, I dont think the weight hurts the performance.
#979
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hi All.
Looks like I am a bit behind with my build !!! I received my repaired motors back from Mitch at D & L for the Robarts...............all good and a great service from Mitch.I have now finished the centre section,wow,guess that is the hardest bit to do....especially if you are doing the gear doors.
I decided to "double-skin" both the main doors and the door on the oleo..........this was to give them a bit more rigidity and also easy to "mould" with a heat gun to get the edges tightish on closing.
I also made a "centre" for the oleo door to rest on when open,this keeps it all nice and central on the down cycle.I found also that by using a piece of round black elastic,instead of the enclosed rubber band and looping it under the area where the U/C link locates,it tends to slide down the non-rotating oleo very nicely...not putting too much tension on the oleo door.
For the sequencing,I am using a Spektrum 12200 cockpit Rx,so far very good and also if I cannot do a mechanical link for the tail wheel doors,I still have the option of using two more servos for this.
These are a few photos of my set up..Have gone with the spektrum "wing-servos" for operating the gear doors.
Regards................Nick (UK)
Looks like I am a bit behind with my build !!! I received my repaired motors back from Mitch at D & L for the Robarts...............all good and a great service from Mitch.I have now finished the centre section,wow,guess that is the hardest bit to do....especially if you are doing the gear doors.
I decided to "double-skin" both the main doors and the door on the oleo..........this was to give them a bit more rigidity and also easy to "mould" with a heat gun to get the edges tightish on closing.
I also made a "centre" for the oleo door to rest on when open,this keeps it all nice and central on the down cycle.I found also that by using a piece of round black elastic,instead of the enclosed rubber band and looping it under the area where the U/C link locates,it tends to slide down the non-rotating oleo very nicely...not putting too much tension on the oleo door.
For the sequencing,I am using a Spektrum 12200 cockpit Rx,so far very good and also if I cannot do a mechanical link for the tail wheel doors,I still have the option of using two more servos for this.
These are a few photos of my set up..Have gone with the spektrum "wing-servos" for operating the gear doors.
Regards................Nick (UK)
I was trying to follow your gear door installation (nice job) on my Corsair, but can't figure out how you installed the Phoenix hinges on the inside of the outer spar. The manual shows the hinges being installed on the outside of the spar by removing sufficient fiberglass to flush mount the hinge on that spar. Ultimately, I installed the hinges as shown in the manual but still curious how you were able to make it work. If I'm viewing the photo correctly, it looks as though you mounted the hinges on the inside of that spar?
#980
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Ash,
Can't speak for Nick on his installation, but with some trimming of the mounting tab to get the distances correct you should be able to mount the pheonix hinges on the inside of the spar. When I did mine, I mounted them flush on the outside of the spar (mainly because I was using the hinges with the actuator tab pre-molded in). If you will be using servo or air cylinder actuation, you should be able to set them up all on the inside of the wheel well and then install seperate actuator tabs. I set mine up using the pheonix hinges with the actuator tab because I used a central servo in the wing center to drive all 4 gear doors.
Russ
Can't speak for Nick on his installation, but with some trimming of the mounting tab to get the distances correct you should be able to mount the pheonix hinges on the inside of the spar. When I did mine, I mounted them flush on the outside of the spar (mainly because I was using the hinges with the actuator tab pre-molded in). If you will be using servo or air cylinder actuation, you should be able to set them up all on the inside of the wheel well and then install seperate actuator tabs. I set mine up using the pheonix hinges with the actuator tab because I used a central servo in the wing center to drive all 4 gear doors.
Russ
#981
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FYI, in a post I read about whistles, and I wanted a couple for my Corsair. I visited http://www.warbirdreplicas.co.uk/Air-Whistle/33.htm The whistles are cheap, but the shipping is some amount, which is ok. I did question whether or not the shipping for 2 whistles would be doubled from the shipping cost for a single whistle, as was apparent on the website. I emailed them and asked. This was his reply, and makes me wonder if he just misunderstood my question, or what?
Hi Chris.
Warbirds is a company that has been selling traditional kits for 25 years . In order that are customers are not left searching for vital parts like oleos , exhausts , spinners and supercharger whistles , we make them in our own work shop.
This works well with our own kits and people appreciate that we provide the hard to find items .
I am guessing that you are going to fit the whistles to something made in China ?
If that is the case (and I apologise if you are scratch building) you must bare in mind that the British kit manufacturers have been decimated by the Chinese ARTF market . So if I have to stop packing a Spitfire kit for one of my customers , to go to the post office , stand in a queue and then fill in a customs form just to make
£5 from sending one of my whistles then I would rather not send a whistle.
We are almost the last British Company still making kits and if people buy one of our kits they certainly can have one post free .
I don't mean to sound offensive its just a sensitive subject .
Regards
Richard
I guess I didn't need whistles anyway. :-) My Saito FG 84 R3 has been ordered and is on its way to Ray English.
Have a great day, and thanks for all the tips, and information here on this forum.
Chris
Hi Chris.
Warbirds is a company that has been selling traditional kits for 25 years . In order that are customers are not left searching for vital parts like oleos , exhausts , spinners and supercharger whistles , we make them in our own work shop.
This works well with our own kits and people appreciate that we provide the hard to find items .
I am guessing that you are going to fit the whistles to something made in China ?
If that is the case (and I apologise if you are scratch building) you must bare in mind that the British kit manufacturers have been decimated by the Chinese ARTF market . So if I have to stop packing a Spitfire kit for one of my customers , to go to the post office , stand in a queue and then fill in a customs form just to make
£5 from sending one of my whistles then I would rather not send a whistle.
We are almost the last British Company still making kits and if people buy one of our kits they certainly can have one post free .
I don't mean to sound offensive its just a sensitive subject .
Regards
Richard
I guess I didn't need whistles anyway. :-) My Saito FG 84 R3 has been ordered and is on its way to Ray English.
Have a great day, and thanks for all the tips, and information here on this forum.
Chris
#982
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Hi "Ash"
Sorry for my late reply to your post ........I did the same as you and as the photo's suggest,I did look at other ways to mount the hinges,but went with the "std" way.The hinges are mounted on the outside of the wing rib ( outer door hinge ),as Russ has mentioned,just removing ( as you did ),the correct amount of F/G covering to enable a flush fit of the mounting "pad"........it means making quite a tight "T" shaped slot in that wing rib ( 2 off "T" slots ),not too wide as you wouldn't have any wood left to screw the mounting pad to.
I am still a bit behind with my build,just working on the tail gear doors and also still testing the Evo 7-77 as it is now running on CDi from CH Ignitions,next thing to sort out is where to put the CDi " ignition box in the nose area !!!!.......quite a "lump" with all the 7 HT braided leads coming out of it !!!
Hope all is going well with your build..?
Kind regards ..........Nick (UK).
Sorry for my late reply to your post ........I did the same as you and as the photo's suggest,I did look at other ways to mount the hinges,but went with the "std" way.The hinges are mounted on the outside of the wing rib ( outer door hinge ),as Russ has mentioned,just removing ( as you did ),the correct amount of F/G covering to enable a flush fit of the mounting "pad"........it means making quite a tight "T" shaped slot in that wing rib ( 2 off "T" slots ),not too wide as you wouldn't have any wood left to screw the mounting pad to.
I am still a bit behind with my build,just working on the tail gear doors and also still testing the Evo 7-77 as it is now running on CDi from CH Ignitions,next thing to sort out is where to put the CDi " ignition box in the nose area !!!!.......quite a "lump" with all the 7 HT braided leads coming out of it !!!
Hope all is going well with your build..?
Kind regards ..........Nick (UK).
#984
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Zeeb, I'm paying Ray extra to do mine first! NOT! Just kidding. Too bad he only gets to do this stuff on the weekends. He's only done 28 of them, he should be able to do this in his sleep by now........
#986
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Yeah he's actually working in Draper which is about 20 minutes from my house so I hand delivered my engine to him. He only goes home every other weekend and told me that he had two engines in front of mine so if it didn't get done, it should get done this next weekend if he's going to be working in his shop. I didn't think about it being Labor Day this weekend so he may not work on stuff when he goes home this weekend. If I don't hear from him by next Tuesday, I'll have to touch bases with him about when mine will get done.
#987
http://youtu.be/ffUehgpp8Ug We all enjoy spending a few bucks on this stuff.But dosent it fiss you off to have to spend $1700. on a new engine only to send it out to get fixed right? Hope Saito is getting told.
#989
My Feedback: (41)
Saito has entered into a licensing agreement with Ray to use his modifications, IIRC the 60cc version will be the first with his modifications. The great thing about this hobby is that you don't have to spend money on anything you don't want to, especially an engine modification that will void it's warranty.
In the meantime, I'm reasonably sure that most of us would appreciate you confining your judgemental posts to things that actually involve you.
In the meantime, I'm reasonably sure that most of us would appreciate you confining your judgemental posts to things that actually involve you.
#991
Watch this video on youtube. He is making the engine run with more even temps, better reliability and higher horsepower.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGHhwnBmFhs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGHhwnBmFhs
#993
My Feedback: (41)
He said it turned a 24x12 two blade prop at 6400 RPM yesterday on his test bench, I'll be going for the 22x12 three blade like condor060 used on his in the video.
Someone said something about needing four hands to hook up the Keleo exhaust? It looks pretty straight forward to me and when I mentioned the comment to Ray, he said that he'd gotten with Kelvin (Keleo) and some changes were made to the exhaust ring to simplify the install.
Oh, I also paid him to do the six bolt prop mount modification so you don't have only the single center prop attach shaft with a nut on it. For a little extra, he modifies it to the DA prop bolt pattern and provides the screws and it's ready to take a prop drilled for a DA. For some reason or other, I seem to already have DA prop drill jigs.... lol
Last edited by Zeeb; 09-02-2014 at 12:44 PM.
#994
Here is my FG-84 in use.
It hasn't been modified. And no keleo. Standard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtRI0P2mTS8
There is a couple of things that is very important regarding the 84;
1) Fill oil to the crankcase via the nipple before first run. All engines needs lubrication, you dont want to start it completely dry.
2) H needle more than 4 rounds.
It hasn't been modified. And no keleo. Standard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtRI0P2mTS8
There is a couple of things that is very important regarding the 84;
1) Fill oil to the crankcase via the nipple before first run. All engines needs lubrication, you dont want to start it completely dry.
2) H needle more than 4 rounds.
Last edited by kwik; 09-03-2014 at 10:44 PM.
#995
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