smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Nice progress Kirk! It's been great having Kirk back on the East coast. He came up and flew at our field in the summer and attended out jet event in the fall. I'm sure he'll be back next year....the F4U will look great in PA skies!

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

....don't get your hopes up. Kirk and I have a deal that we each work on it then when we get burned out we sell it to the other guy. Eventually it will get finished. The one who puts the last rivet on will be the winner, and get to fly it!

trickpony4

My Feedback: (14)

Your Saito won't sound like this without the Keleo exhaust ring! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPYVcyl0HRE

DUCMOZ

Ah, Sean, I think it deserves to come to my hands at least once. But I think Kirk knows that in that case, it would be finding a permanent home☺️ No more would be traveling around. Good to hear from you.

i seriously was going to get the large one from Tomahawk but everyday something new comes out and I wasn't sure if I would feel the same in five months.

Behzad

njmheli

Hi All.

Have just got my tail gear installed and completed the tail wheel doors ,so starting to catch up a bit now............I decided to link the tail wheel doors to the tail retract unit ( I did the same sort of idea on my P-47 ).All appears to work well,with very little extra load on the electric motor !!!

I had to re-spray the tail wheel doors as I found that the paint had very little "key to the plastic", I found out when I was doing the main gear doors etc........alot was just flaking off after the cutting etc.

These are a few photo's of my set up :

A short video is here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQj5Z...ature=youtu.be

Regards....................Nick (UK)

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Nick, Wow! Best setup I've seen. I hope you don't mind a few questions.

Do you have any more details of the fittings you made ?
What paint did you use for respraying the blue plastic ?

Thanks

ThunderT

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks for the video Nick, great job

kalzone

nick very nice job
what electric motor are you using to operate the tail retract?

njmheli

Hi.

Thanks for your comments,I have attached a photo of the "fittings" I made for my P-47 tail wheel doors............you can see these also in the "RC Universe H9 30cc P-47 Build Thread",also other details.

The photo shows the basic idea of the parts needed :

M2 cap bolts.M2 nyloc's and M2 washers,Brass strip and tubing..............The M2 ball joints can be found "on-line" along with M2 ss studding ( if needed ).

Brass strip is used to make the "U" fittings ( swivel ),these then drilled for the M2 bolts for the ball joints.

Brass tube used for the "axle" on the retract unit ( on my unit,I made an error with the length,hence the M2 washers behind the "U" fittings !!! ).I fitted inside the brass tube an ali tube,which was just enough for the M2 bolts to fit in........the brass and ali tube was then filled with JB Weld or similar.
The tube assy was then drilled and tapped for M2 thread,for the "U" fittings..........the "axle" was then drilled in the centre and mounted on the retract unit.

The M2 ball joints made up and attached to the doors using a "modified" horn ( just ground to the profile I needed ).

All my Main,Tail wheel doors on the Corsair are double skinned............This is to increase their strength and also to allow any "heat-forming / moulding"


PAINT used in the UK ( nearest match that I could get ) was HUMBROL ENAMEL 15 MIDNIGHT BLUE...........this was thinned and then airbrushed applied.

I think that a "TESTOR 1511" may be a close match...?

Hope that this helps..........

Regards..................................Nick (UK)

njmheli

Hi.

I am using the "Robart" electric motor......................On my P-47 I used a "LADO" electric motor..............LADO sell these along with the mounting items needed to retro-fit the Robart pnuematic retracts.

I'm pretty sure that the LADO DOOR ACTUATORS.. ( E Doors ) could also be used to operate the retract unit in the 60cc Corsair.LADO make these with two different "throws" available.........worth a look at their Web-site..? www.e-retract.com

Regards...................Nick (UK).

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

It helps a great deal Nick, THANKS

two follow up questions if I may,

- The double skin on the doors is just Balsa wood ? and how do you heat- formed the parts, hot water or heat gun ? Any detailed info would be great as I have to increase the radius on the main gear doors (about 1/8" on each of the outer sides); did the paint crack in the process ?

- What did you use to fuel-proof the HUMBROL paint ?

Your posts are very helpful to me, good timing! Cheers, Vasek

njmheli

Hi Vasek.

Ok,your questions,this may help :

See below the photo of "products" that I used for the "double skinning" of all the doors ( main and tail )....The skin is made by using "styrene" sheet (1.00- 2.0mm thick),depending on what you want,this is applied over a "framework" of "styrene" strips ( 1.5-2.0mm square ).The strips being attached to the inner surfaces of the door by using a "liquid plastic cement" ( this almost melts the plastic together ),then a thin bead of ZAP PLASTIC is used to strenghen the joint on the inner side.........then make a paper / thin cardboard template of the shape of the inner skin ( I photo-copied the door with the outlined "strips" of the shape of the skin and that is an easy way to get a nearly perfect template !! )..........attach with ZAP only as it will be a good bond,finish shape / trim with a sharpe knife ( watch your fingers !! )..........all done and prime.

NOTE : SEE MY POST # 340 on H9 P-47 Build Thread on RC Universe and you will see how the door is before the top skin is on ie : the pattern of strips etc.

Have you looked back at the early parts of this build thread,you will see my main wheel doors etc....

All the "heat forming is done WITH GREAT CARE using a heat gun..............BE CAUTIOUS,THE PLATIC DOES NOT TAKE TOO MUCH HEAT TO FORM.

Heat with care to form,bend / shape as needed,hold whilst it cools..........

Yes,I had the paint peeling off even after very carefull cutting ( even using a masking tape ) and also when using the Dremel sanding fine wheels !!! Guess mine may have been a bit of a quick spray on the plastic,NO KEY whatsoever !!!

It is almost as if..........once the edges of the painted items are sanded or altered,the paint on mine flaked off.......as if the paint was like an "envelope" clinging to some surfaces.

I will use a fuel-proof spray fom my local model shop or use a two-part mix and airbrush it on..?

Hope the above helps..?

Regards....................Nick.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Got it THANKS

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks Sean. That's a nice field to fly at.

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Nice job Nick. Thanks for showing.

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

The wing doesn't sit well in the wing saddle and there is a pretty large gap at the front of the wing to fuse fit. I can see why the gap is there which is so you can tilt the back of the wing up as you remove it from the fuse. One of my biggest pet peeves is how parts fit together so I'm using some auto body filler to give a nice tight fit of the wing to the saddle and remove the gap in the front of the wing. If someone is going to do the same, you will need to elongate the hole at the back of the wing saddle where the wooden dowel keys to the wing. By elongating the hole, you can lift the back of the wing enough to clear the dowel yet still not have a gap at the front of the wing.

Kirk

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

After a little sanding, the wing fits much better.

DUCMOZ

It looks great Kirk.

Behzad

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I am just about to pull the trigger on pulling the covering off one more time and do it all again in fiberglass. I am interested in a much better quality finish in auto paint rather than a mix of paint and covering materials so I can bring this to the Nationals competition this coming year. I am watching Kirk's efforts to see how it is coming out. I appreciate the updates and sharing of information.....

chorner

Thats one thing that has been bugging the hell out of me on this plane as well. Everything else seems to fit nicely but I can't believe how poorly the wing saddle fitment is. Is everyone's plane the same? Pretty bad if so IMO

Kirk did you leave the base layer of tape on underneath the filler?interested in doing the same. I was going to cut some balsa and shape it originally just to mask the gaps but not actually fill the gap throughout the whole width of the saddle. Is that what you've done?

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Balsa would be one way of filling in the gap, especially if you are going to stick with the covering. I used automotive body filler, like Bondo (I use Evercoat Metal Glaze), to fill the gaps. I use packing tape as a releasing agent on the side of the gap. I don't put tape on the other side of the gap. The blue painters tape is used to prevent the filler from being spread on the side of the fuse. Once the filler dried, I took the wing off and start sanding the filler until the tape just starts to become visible. At that point, the tape can be peeled off without damaging the filler. What this leaves is just a little bit of filler that needs to be sanded to blend into the side of the fuse.

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

This morning before work I was able to get some filler on the rear section of the belly pan/fuse. Filling in this section was a little different than filling in the gap of the wing saddle because in addition to filling in the gap, filler needs to be added to the fuse to blend in the belly pan with the fuse (the rear part of the belly pan sticks up past the fuse). For this job I placed packing tape as a releasing agent on the wing/belly pan and since filler needs to be spread onto the fuse to blend in the belly pan, I didn't use blue painters tape on the fuse.

These photos show the gap and belly pan:


These photos show what it looks like after sanding the filler until the tape just starts to become visible, after the wing was popped of, and after the wing was reinstalled after removing the packing tape. The area is ready sanding to blend everything together.


Kirk

chorner

Awesome work Kirk (that has a ring to it haha).

I think I'll be doing the same, or perhaps using balsa combined with some body filler to level the fuse with the belly pan. It'll bug me too much to not fix it, though I think I'm just going to re-cover the plane instead of glassing and painting it perhaps?

Not too sure, but mostly I want to ensure the colours all match up as close as possible. To be honest, I've never glassed so I'm hesitant but for me anyhow by the time I'm finished purchasing what I need for this plane it'll have close to $5,000 invested into it... maybe best to do it right

Any suggestions if I want to just re-cover it with UltraCote?

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

Well am at the retract stage . When i phoned and talked to my locaol hobby shop and he told me the price for air operated main and tail gear i almost dropped the phone at almost 1000 dollars that is what we pay for most our jet gear with brakes . Does anybody no of a less expensive retract that would fit this bird

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

Chorner your work is superbe but after all that work to cover it with ultracote would be a shame i was also thinking of glassing mine but after shrinking the stock coating it didnt look bad at all h9 did a great jobe on the coating . What gets me is the cost of all the parts to finish from horizon. Lets face it a great looking plane but it aint no comp arf lol just my 2 cents