garyFL

Yes, I have the 7-35 and the 7-77. I will, of course, use the 7-77 on the Corsair. I have the Corsair on backorder. Not sure when they will be shipping. I plan on putting the 7-35 on a GP Giant Big Stik with a two blade prop. As soon as I break in the 7-35 I will put the 7-77 on the test stand and break it in. I'll let you know about the prop after that time. - Gary

Thomas Schultz

Nice-looking corsair Zeeb.

Thanks for the offer but I'll pass I have some Robart landing gear on order.

The narrow table makes me nervous add some extensions onto the sides of the table so the plane doesn't slide off the side.

Tom

djohnson

Mike-- long time-- you bought F-80 from me-- but the Sierra Gear is not that hard. I suggest you put t-nuts and bolts the gear rather than the screws. You will have to add to a couple of the wood gear mounts that have been milled out. Slide forward to make the clearances for rotation and the gear ankle is not as much forward in the extended gear down position as the robart. You will nee a spacer on the one side as the wells are not equal depth for clearance. If you are going to use the gear doors you really should do some pre shaping with a heat gun, mitten hot pads and a friend. Just heat til you feel a little flex coming- the material can warp if not real careful. You will need to take some material of the top portion wear all the doors come together but you will see as you start the closing positioning. We used BVM hinges on the doors- a little time fitting but strong hinges. When you position servos and mounts for same you have put forward in well or wheel will rub when retracting- caused by the leg being 1/2 inch shorter than Robarts. Doors are a bit of time but work out and worth the time to do. Once you start mounting and keep checking it will all be visible what is needed, just go slow and expect to spend a lot of time. Mike it is worth the time. Any other help I am here to help you out. I have done 3 of them now. If you use the 84cc engine again lots of time to mount and gring the valve covers down to smooth and no holes need to be cut. The stock flex tubes will be a ton easier that the Keleo exhaust as there has to be a lot of hard wood corner blocking and using perfect fitting of another flat PC behind firewall with 45 degree angle joints and Aero poxy. Reason- lots of cutting to make ring fit. You will need to add 3/8 block pad on each cowl mount to move cowl out that much to make it all fit and look correct. Hope this helps, the plane is worth the effort as it flies so good and on a rail. Landings with correct pre set flap to elevator mix is throttle adjust and complete pattern with the throttle as full size - the sink rate is constant and flair at high rate elevator makes the landings easy BUILD IT AS YOU WILL LOVE THE PLANE.

chorner

Have any of you been able to purchase a set of the Robart electric retracts for this plane in the last while...? I've had mine on backorder for what seems like ages now. I've heard late december, but no sign of any stock through Horizon

puncho1

Hi guys ordered mine today cant wait to get it in. Im like a kid waiting on Santa Claus.

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Hi Dan-And Yes, it has been a while. The F-80 was a super nice jet.
Thanks soo much for the detailed reply-This is the kind of info that is needed from someone who has already done the hard work.
Regards-Mike

chorner

Would anyone happen to have an extra L marked clear plastic wing-tip light cover by any chance? I was given two right wing-tip light covers in my ARF

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

zeeb i am looking for a set of air operated retracts since horizon keeps jerking me around do u still have your for sale please email me at [email protected]

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

jonyfever; email sent.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Contact the Horizon Product Support line and they have been very helpful when I had broken or missing parts.

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

zeeb did not get any email will give you email once again [email protected] THANKS oo

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

jonyfever; PM sent

clover creek

Kirk,
Any up dates on your Corsair?

see you soon,
John

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Hi John,

No new updates. This time of year with work, the holidays, and the NFL playoffs, I don't get much done with the hobby but I should be back on the Corsair soon.

Kirk

clover creek

First time uploading picture here. Like Kirk, I have glassed the Corsair. This picture is chart tape waiting for primer.

see you soon,
John

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Nice work John!
I'm glassing mine as well.

What did you use to simulate the rib stitching?
What size chart tape?

Thanks!
Scott
QUOTE=clover creek;11959091]First time uploading picture here. Like Kirk, I have glassed the Corsair. This picture is chart tape waiting for primer.

see you soon,
John[/QUOTE]

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

has anyone got the doors working on air? i bought a set of robart retracts on air and would like to work the main gear doors on air as well but having a hell of a time trying to find air cylinders small enoughto fit in the wheel well . i think i would need a cylinder 2 1/2 inches in hieght pivot to pvot with 3/4 inch stroke tryed robart airpower and a couple other no luck can anybody help or have any other way to mount a little bigger air cylinder regards

njmheli

Hi.

This is what I have used on my T/F Giant scale Corsair ( still to be finished )..............hope this helps.

Regards..................Nick (UK)

clover creek

Scott,
I covered the open area's with Solartex. For the rib stiching, I tore some strips of Solartex and ironed them down.
The chart tape is 1/32".

see you soon,.
John

chorner

Edit: Got it all figured out Much easier to test geometry on a mock up first, then install into the plane and test with a servo tester (gear doors). The servo tester saved a ton of time

goshawk911

Hi

I have been flying my Corsair with the 7-77 for the last 10 months. I have tried 23x12 3 and a 23/10 3. Ended up with using 24/10 2. This gave the best performance in the air. Take offs runs although not over powered are scale as is the flight on about 3/4 throttle, Going to full throttle on climbs and large barrel rolls.
Overall it fly's superb but its not a pylon racer and with the 7-77 it sounds grate and fly's in a well behaved very scale manor.
I am very pleased with mine and don't think I would change a thing. (OK maybe the covering.) Drives me mad on a hot day.
Good luck with the prop selection but like I said earlier you may do better in spending your pennies on some thing else and just stick to a 2 Blade prop.
I have both 3 blade props still and I guess I have spent around £220 on the pair. Look good on the wall LOL.

chorner

Hi goshawk,

Darn, not good to hear. Was really hoping either a 22x10 or 22x12 3 blade would work well enough. What were you experiencing with the 23x12 versus the 24x10 2 blade in terms of differences? Take offs, vertical performance, speed etc.

---

Also, does anybody know of some good cable management clips etc. to route and tidy up some of the cables through the wings etc.?

youngguy

My Feedback: (7)

Have you looked at the BVM cylinders?

goshawk911

With the 23x10 3 I get a max RPM 5600. lots RPM not much pull. With the 24x10 2 I get a max RPM of 5300 but lots more pull.
The 23/12 drops the RPM down to 5100 again not as pull as the 2 blade. I have to say I was disappointed as I wanted the Scale look of the 3 Blades.
Take off with 23x10 was slow and long. I only flew it around for a couple of circuits and then landed as it felt like it was going to drop out of the sky.
The 23/12 was marginally better but still not as good as the 2 Blade. In the end I thought that performance out weighed looks and to be honest in the air you cant really tell.
I reckon to get it right you will need a 24x10 3 or a 24x12 3 but this will reduce the RPM to much for 7-77.
With all this said I am looking at the CH-Ignitions conversion to CDI Glow for this engine which apparently gives between 10 and 15% more power, This could be the different you would need to
run a 24" 3 blade at around 5400 to 5600. But this is guess work and the only way is to try it.

chorner

Thanks GoShawk. Good to know, as I was going to fly it first with a 22x10 which would've been even worse than the 23x10. What brand props did you try? I purchased a Beila 3 blade "semi-scale corsair prop". I actually have my engine out to be converted to CDI glow right now, and plan to run it off a ~15% nitro and 9% oil combination. So hopefully that gives it a good ~15% boost in performance.