njmheli

HI all.

Attached photo's on next posts.

Kind regards................Nick (UK).

njmheli

More photo's

njmheli

HI More photo's

njmheli

Hi More photo's

njmheli

Last few now !!!

njmheli

Hi All.

On my mounting of the 84,it needed 40mm bolts ( length of shank + thread ),30mm bolts come with the engine...............to use any longer bolts you will have to remove the carb plus the mounting flange other wise you get the bolts in.

I will be using Stainless Steel M40 set bolts plus Nord Lock washers.

Below are the photo's of the 84 on it's test stand,you will see the simulated " head" of fuel,with the tank much higher than the carb centre line........the 84 is pumped via the carb,but to quote Saito " pump not so strong "..............guessing that's because the 84 still runs with a crankcase vent....?????.

No problems running like this,no syphoning of fuel and also I am running a pressure feed to the tank..........so hoping I can make good use of the space where the air tank should go for a fuel tank now..???

Rexel and Saito also sell a Tacho ( # SAIG 17167 )..........you can see this in the photo,plugs into the CDi box ( will also work with Adrian at CH Ignitions CDi box ),so no need for the opitcal tacho and risks !!!! I will mount a plug in the cockpit,so I can plug this in and read the RPM's in a safe way !!!

Kind regards................Nick (UK).

spitfire66

Beautiful pics!

I just received my H9 Corsair in the mail Monday! I'm very excited to get it built up. I am waiting for the weather to warm up to get my TF Mustang painted. I figured I would get my taste of giant scale with that airplane before flying this expensive, but gorgeous airplane. The wing center section is a masterpiece! I was looking on the boxes trying to figure out what manufacturing number my particular plane is. Does anyone know where to find it?

Thomas Schultz

Nick,

Nice work mounting the FG84
My retracts are air operated. So my question is how far does the carburetor on the FG84 come into the fuselage. I'm thinking if I remove the front servo beam to make room for the fuel tank I could mount the rudder servo on the back servo beam. I moved over the retract actuator to make room for the rudder servo. The former where the actuator should be mounted would need to be enlarged to allow the rudder servo to work properly. See attached photos. Tom

njmheli

Hi Tom.

OK,see what you mean,If you cut away the front servo beam ( enough only to allow the tank to be set back ),you could then make some ply supports ( ie : bulkheads ) for the remaining front beam coming off the ply floor that the tank sits on.............I would also put a ply connection between the cut off front beam and the rear beam ( ie : where the holes are pre drilled for the optional servo mounting )........you could then use those "ply connections" between the cut front beam to rear beam as a mounting of the rudder servo in a "sideways" orientation...........do you see what I mean..? ( may involve a shortening of the push rod,maybe making the 4-40 threaded longer ? )



The servo for the throttle can be mounted on a "platform",just FWD of the front servo beam mount,attached to the fuzz side crutch...........

On my set up,the center of the throttle arm on the carb is about mid point through the firewall..........the velocity stack on the carb protrudes into the tank area by approx 1.5" MAX.............not much else is protruding.

See the attached photo of another idea : To use the stock tank on it's side,positioned to the left as looking in at the fuzz upside down.I have placed a "cardboard profile" of the tank on the tank floor,it is positioned approx 10mm off fuzz crutch wall..........to fit the tank in this orientation,you will need to remove a area as marked in red tape. (this area is just below,where the wing dowel fits,but this area is a double thickness ply.........only single thickness where you would remove the ply...The tank could be fitted flush against the fuzz crutch,but you would have to remove a length of ply to do this.
This could work,even with extra support as in my set up behind the F/W in the corners ................Pipe work coming out of the tank,would possible need a nice bend,just to clear from rear of F/W.

Just another idea.............?

Let me know................?

Kind regards..............Nick (UK).

Thomas Schultz

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your ideas and help.

By keeping the fuel tank 2 inches from the firewall, cutting out the front servo beam and enlarging the area on the bulkhead for the rudder servo this might just work.

Thanks Tom

See attached pictures

njmheli

Hi Tom.

That looks like a winning solution to me!!!! ( throttle servo should be on the other side..?)..........I've just been looking at my Corsair,just a suggestion here ( I think that there is enough space )............consider mounting the rudder servo sideways,this way you should be able to make use of the rear beam and the "bulkhead" ( which is where the tail wheel actuator was mounted and where you have marked the area to remove ),to fabricate the mounting ply platform for the servo....ie: between the rear beam and the bulkhead,even with a larger area removed than what you have marked,would give you the clearance and also help stiffen up that bulkhead,where you have cut away....?

So all you have to do is shorten the rudder push rod and plastic guide tubes and your done !!!!

I hope my idea for my fuel tank position works,other wise I may have to steal your way and do alot of woodworking and actuator re-positioning etc !!!!!..........should find out pretty soon.

Great stuff..................keep me informed !!!

Kind regards..................Nick (UK).

chorner

Why not just try fitting a water bottle or a 3W 750CC round tank in where the space for the air tank goes? Of course, you'd need the electric retracts but to me this is the cleaner solution. I may do that myself as well even though I'll be running the 7-77. You probably won't be able to find an exact match for the diameter of the Robart air tank, but if you make yourself a little template and trace the diameter out on the wood it shouldn't take too much sanding to match whatever round bottle or tank you end up using.

Edit: link to the 3W tanks here: http://www.aircraftinternational.com...tank_specs.htm ... the 25oz tank is a very close fit with the neck of the tank needing a bit of foam tape or something else to bring up the diameter, while the main diameter of the tank would require a bit of sanding out the rear support area closes to the radio tray. Not too much work required overall to make it fit and the 24/5oz tank should give you a good amount of run time.

Any particular reason why you switch from the 7-77 Nick?

p.s - I switched the single flap servo to a dual flap servo setup, and for anyone building this I would highly recommend it. It only took me about 30 minutes to measure and cut some hardwood mounts for the servos and drop them in, but the different in both servo current draw, as well as being able to match the flap deflection to the degree with a dual-servo setup is definitely the way to go. Should've done it sooner, but didn't take much time anyhow.

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Hi Nick,

Thanks for describing and posting pics of the FG84 install. I recently received my FG84 from Mr. English and will be installing it in the Spring when the temps here warm up enough for me to get back in the workshop.

Kirk

njmheli

HI.

Appreciate your comments,I have spent quite a few hours looking for a very close match for the Robart Air Cylinder dia,looking at all the bottle manufactures here in the uk,together with the bottles being made of the correct material for petrol.

I have seen the specs and sizes for the 3W Tanks..............on the 3W tanks,dia's are large,but not too impossible to use.A 500ml bottle ( made of the correct material ) can be sourced easily here and indeed a bottle for 1000ml ( that's too big to fit in easily )...........I think that 500ml would be fine for the Corsair,but does not leave for me enough of a "comfort zone",fuel wise.

As said in one of my previous posts,I have sourced a 600ml ( ali or ss) petrol fuel bottle at 60mm dia x 190mm lg ( perfect for the size dia available to fit in ),which are designed for Petrol RC boats............will see what that is like when it arrives.

The only reason for the 84 swap,was because of the chance I had to purchase it here in the UK,then I thought lets go to Ray and get this done !!! I am more than happy with the 7-77,also,it was all set up on the F/W for the7-77 mounting...........but it will fit on my other Corsair (T/F kit ) just fine,when I get it finished...........plus it is lighter than the H9 Corsair.

Yes,I agree............a two servo flap set up is the ONLY way to go,they are soooooo BIG !!!!.........didn't even consider the single servo route when I did mine.

Many thanks again for your reply.

Kind regards.................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Kirk.

Hope that they can assist you,thought I would post these as,a few have been carried out now,but lacking in photo's...............I know that mine may not look good in a cosmetic way,but as said it is structural more than pretty !!!!
My thinking is for the extending the life of the airframe..............the 84 ( after the mods ) does appear to have a whole lot of "grunt" available.Mine has now run for over an hour so far since it came back............very easily goes over 6000rpm with the 22" x 12 3BL Biela.............can see my test stand on the workmate being pulled down,even with a very heavy lead/acid car battery on the back !!!

I am running a high oil content at 16:1 at the moment ( using Koltz Original Techniplate Oil )...........got 4 litres to get through on the test stand,before I get her mounted on the Corsair,so hoping it will be very close to run in by that time..?

HINT : It is cold here in UK at the moment.................I use a portable gas heater in the garage ( workshop )............so not a valid excuse !!!!...sorry

Will be interested to see how you get on,keep in touch.

Kind regards...................Nick (UK).

chorner

Nick, you've really got me thinking about trying the FG84... lol damn you! Did the 7-77 fly it well at least? I'm in the same boat where I could always find something to put that 7-77 in, and the FG84 is just 'easier' to run over the long haul. You don't need to be so careful about having the insides of it rust out like the 7-77 etc. Is the performance benefit worth it I wonder...

I have the 7-77 still waiting on the CH ignitions to be installed and sent back; its taking forever though. I've had it out since December 16th. It's getting a little "annoying" to say the least, but to CH's credit he's designed a mounting bracket for the ignition sensor versus JB welding the damn thing on the crankcase lol

I looked at the Condor thread on his, and from what I could tell he didn't have to modify his firewall at all. All he did was make a cutout, move his tank back a bit and extend the cowl further with some spacers? He had the Keleo exhaust as well

njmheli

Hi.

Just got into bed ( it's 00:10hrs here in the UK ),heard the ping of my phone............love this thread and topic,so I had to get the old laptop out and reply !!!!

If you look at CONDOR's photo of his tank set up,you will see that he has lowered the tank ( or raised it higher to the top of the fuzz ,in the area where the air tank was positioned ),it is also under the beams for the servo mounts,that allowed the tank to be moved aft.

The only "mod" that I did on the F/W was to increase the amount of "ply" to the rear and sides of of the fuzz crutch plates,this will give added strength to a "possible weakened" F/W after you have done the grinding of the F/W to allow the collector ring to clear..........I did an additional 1/4" ( using the 4 off "ply pads",which I cyno hardened ) off the F/W to stop me having to grind back too far around the corners / one side of the original F/W set up...........the 4 off "ply pads" to the rear in the F/W were purely to take the blind nuts,as I thought the ply used in the F/W was too soft.......IMO............Just being safe,hence all the carbon fibre / resin around and where I could add it to the original F/W.

I have not flown the 7-77 as the Corsair is not finished..........but pretty sure with the CDi from Adrian that I have it was giving more power,using the 22" 12 X 3Bl Biela.I got the kit from Adrian,was very easy to fit and time for ignition,JB for the sensor was very easy to do,just made myself a 1mm gauge for sensor spacing,and JB'B it on....perfect,fired up straight away........lovely.

I would say that the 84 has for's and against.............but concerning the power,I think ( correct me if I'm wrong ) the 7-77 is approx 4HP max,the 84 is probably around 6+HP after Ray's modifications..............definately more RPM's easily ( petrol produces more torque,hence larger props can be run ).The after-run on the 7-77 is quite a pain in the backside,but in a weird way,fun to do............wish the 7-77 had a crankcase drain fitted,that could be opened and closed to assist in the "cleaning".

You know you want to go for it !!!!!!

Let me know............

Kind regards...................Nick (UK).

At the moment,we fly off a disused airfield,so the 7-77 in the heavy Corsair,would not present any take of worries and once going ( seeing the Corsairs flying with the 7-77,2Bl 24" 10 props........no problem,even from grass strips......just longer T/O's ).Still think it is a lovely radial for the Corsair

You could also ask Adrian to modify the 7-77 to run on Gas.................just a carb change required ????

njmheli

Hi.

A couple of pic's of my 7-77,with Adrian's CDi fitted.

Kind regards................Nick (UK).

badgerord

My Feedback: (6)

Njm,

What prop are you running?

njmheli

Hi.

On the 7-77,with CDi ( running on glow fuel ) I was running a Biela 22" x 12 x 3BL..................last run I did in the test stand I was seeing approx 5100RPM.( still slightly rich )...I have run a 22" x 10 x 3BL Biela on this engine,Max RPM obtained were around 5500RPM,allowing for unload at full throttle in the air could take this close to the MAX of 6300RPM as advised by Evolution for the 7-77.Hence a try at the higher pitch prop.

On the FG 84 ( with the Ray English modifications ) It is running the same prop..................this appears to be the "norm" for this engine,last run saw 6000RPM,not quite max throttle and still on a rich setting as the 84 is not run in as yet.

Kind regards..................Nick (UK).

clover creek

Almost done painting the Corsair. i found this product at Home depot for creating the soft line effect. Very light and flexible.
Thought i would share;

see you soon,
John

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

Zeeb,

I am looking for any tips or tricks that you have for putting the engine inside the cowl.

I am the current owner of Condor's (Fred C.) plane and the first engine that Ray English modified. Fred was unable to mount the engine without having to cut for one cylinder head.

I have since removed all of the covering and painted/covered it in a burgundy and cream post war racing scheme that I didn't like the results. Since seeing others take the approach of fiberglass and paint, I stripped it one more time and I am nearly ready to put fiberglass on the plane after smoothing all of the highs and lows. I will be using Klasskote paints to bring it back to the burgundy and cream color scheme, all with paint and final application of Callie graphics.

As for the fuel tank, I have modified the mounting of it and have moved to a Roto-flow tank instead. Much cleaner install and the tanks are fantastic.

I really am interested in knowing how you got the engine to fit without cutting holes in the cowl.

clover creek

I hope I didn't derail this thread!
More progress on the Hanger 9 Corsair. I got the paint mask from Promark.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well as I've mentioned before, I didn't put mine together. While there was a bit of grumbling initially from my builder, when I told him that Peter Goldsmith (my builder knows him personally) had put one on one of the four different prototypes Horizon was sending to meets all over the place, my builder figured he could do it as well. The biggest difference is that my engine has the Keleo exhaust which caused the most work for my builder, Pete's model has the stock Saito exhaust.

I "think" they polished off the raise ridges on the cylinder rocker covers on that one lower left cylinder (I can't remember how they number radial cylinders anymore... lol) and that was about it. I've posted some pics of the install in this thread a few months ago.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Nice color scheme John! (clover creek)
What are you powering your with? (engine & prop)
Scott