chorner

Figured I'd show you guys my Evo 7-77 with a new sensor pickup design from Adrian I had asked for. I wasn't all that keen on JB welding components to the motor, as I wanted an easy way to swap the parts if I wanted to move the CDI system around. After I test -and if I like the motor a lot- I usually buy a 2nd for parts etc. as I hate having to go through the warranty process and the wait times if I can fix it myself and do a better more thorough (+ fast) job on it. If one engine ends up running better out of the box than the other, I use it and keep the other for backup.

It doesn't quite hide things as well, but I like it and I can always change the colour or polish down the sensor bracket!

k_sonn

My Feedback: (32)

Nice John. You did a great job on the Corsair.

Kirk

Capt Midnight

Nick,

Morris emailed me this AM, that he will be testing and running in the engine this weekend, so we'll see what he comes up with. Removing the serrations from the hub may not have been the best thing to do. You might want to go back a revisit that idea, and consider ordering a new drilled hub from Morris. I literally have hundreds and hundreds of hours running big bore DA's (120cc to 180cc with all types of CF props.... no problem. The bolts keep the prop from removing itself from the engine, the serrations transfer the torque of the engine to the prop, which then gives you thrust. In thrust we trust!

njmheli

Hi Corner.

New sensor design looks ok.................,let us know how you get on with the test runs !!!

Kind regards.....................Nick (UK).

Thomas Schultz

Hi Nick

Nice job on the fuel tank looks like it's going to work.


I like your idea about boxing in the servo areas. Thanks





Look for a little help from the Saito FG-84R3 users:




I mounted the Saito FG-84 to the firewall, so my question is how far back does the fuel tank have to be from the intake cone on the carburetor?
Without removing the rear servo beam the fuel tank is about one inch from the carburetor cone, is that adequate?






Thanks
Tom

njmheli

Hi Capt.

Good news to hear you may get some results from Morris this weekend................be great to hear the results on gas.

I agree with all you say about the "grip-lines",it's just me...................I have two hubs for the 7-77 ( one std and the other machined clean ).When I fitted the CDi kit from Adrian,I had the grip lines removed,to me they appeared to more "protruding" than the std ones..............So with all the running that I have had with the 7-77,there has not been a problem or "slippage"...........so far !!!! Quite a large surface area of contact................

The prop drive hub on the 7-77 is only gripped to the crankshaft by a tapered split collet.............no key way.

The FG84 has a single nut to hold the prop-driver on,usual split collet and it is pinned for timing,together with a jam nut to lock the prop nut tight.............so the 4bolt DA pattern to me should do the torque bit !!!! ( I had the 4 DA Bolt pattern drilled into the 84 hub by Ray....6 DA Bolt pattern was too large for the prop hub I will be using...........would mean not too much hub left at blade roots ).

But as said,I agree with you......

Post those results

Kind regards....................Nick(UK).

njmheli

Hi Tom.

All looks great..............plenty of structural support there and nice wood working !!!!.........just the mounting for the rudder servo to do now............then all done !!!

I can't help with your question,with regard to the velocity stack distance................but IMO,think you will NOT run into a "restriction problem" for intake,plenty of air space around it,I'm sure.............Have not seen another mod in detail, with the tank moved aft on the same tank floor level........sure that a 84 user will answer that if they have done the same.

Any nasty bends required for the pipe work............and are you planning to use "pressure" to the tank from the Keleo exhaust....?

Kind regards...................Nick (UK).

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

A number of years ago when I was just really starting into something other than trainers, I had several YS-110's that were absolutely phenomenal engines once tuned. But the little beasts were a constant pain in the you know where because they would spin the drive hub on the spinner backplate. Some guys were putting pins in the hub which required drilling extra holes in the backplate and in to the props.

I know some guys say they've never had a problem with the single center attach stud/nut setup but I'd had enough.

Since then, I've NEVER had another engine with only a single center stud to secure the prop. That was one concern for me when I looked at the FG84 originally. But then I found out Ray would put six holes in the hub in a DA bolt pattern (the larger DA's use six bolts while the smaller ones only use four) and I already have DA and ZDZ drill jigs so the extra $35.00 he wanted to do that modification seemed like money well spent to me.

Capt Midnight

Nick,

The problem with the 7-77 drive flange collet vs.bolts through the hub vs. a single screw through the crank snout will be a non-issue for me. I will be using a Tur-Turn Type "A" Bullet Spinner that has already been drilled for a DA50R 4-bolt pattern, and also uses a 10mm jam nut. Double retention...

njmheli

Hi Capt.

We may have been cross talking a bit here,what I was trying to say was that,all of the power ( torque ) has to be delivered to the prop driver ( hub ) via the tapered collet in both the 7-77 and the 84,together with quite alot of other engines............I can see the point of the grip lines for use on wooden ./ nylon props where the surface is "soft" and the grips will dig into the surface...........but all of this does not make ( IMO ) sense if the grip the collet has on the crankshaft to hub is not up to the job.........unless it is keyed or pinned aswell to the crankshaft,or very ,very tightly secured to the crankshaft..........on my Saito FA450R3 ( still new in the box ),it comes with two "material" pads to put on each side of the prop,even with a hub that has grip lines !!!!

On my 7-77,with the "plain" prop drive hub,just made sure that it was very well tightened up on the prop-nut and jam nut,as said no problems.

Any way...........I'm sure all will work.

I "deal" with Amanda ( absolutely great service fron TT ) at Tru-Turn,these are the items I used with my Biela 3BL on the 7-77 ( and have fitted these to the FG 84 ) :

TTH-1750-B...............1-3/4" B-Style Prop Hub

TTH-BP-1750-A..........1-3/4" A-Style Hub Back Plate

TT-0126-A..................10 x 1.25 Tapered Jam Nut

I had the dia of the backplate machined down to match the dia of the Prop Hub,also the DA50 4 Bolt pattern drilled and 10mm ream in the backplate.

NOTE : When I fitted the backplate on the FG84,with the 3BL Biela,I had the backplate re-machined ( here in the UK ),to remove some of the thickness,allowing more of the thread of the 84's crankshaft to be available for the jam nut.

( the Biela props on the 22" dia series blades have quite a thick hub............not a problem with the 7-77 as the crankshaft thread is very long,I think that the Biela prop hubs are made of a harder wood,with the "grain" running on the longitudinal direction..........to help resist "crushing",when tightening down ).

See attached photo's of the prop hub set up on the 84............with the 4 bolts ( to help with torque !!! ) and the central nut to hold it all on...

Kind regards................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Tom.

Just been looking at you mods again,couple of points here :

Are you using the STD set up on the F/W....ie : same off set of engine C/L and right thrust....?

Are you going to mount the 84 using additional ply pads on the front....? ( Condor did,I copied,so as to gain a bit more of the "corners" when modifying for the collector ring )

I know this may sound a bit stupid and not conventional but............turn the fuel tank upside down,this will maybe give you more space around the velocity stack as you will be using the "shape" of the end of the tank........to make space.............would this work...? ( Tank wouldn't know any different !!! )

If you are still not happy with the room ( as said IMO,can't see that being a problem ),you could always cut away the rear servo beam,as you have now made the structural supports for the servos...........move the tank a bit more aft...........nearer the C of G...........then mount the rudder on the other side of the bulk head,with the addition of more ply supports ( which you are very good at making !!! ).

Just some thoughts............

Back to getting my fuel tank in...................no leaks still !!!

Kind regards..................Nick (UK).

Capt Midnight

Nick,

I agree with you entirely! The weak link in the chain is the (Non-Pinned) collet. I may pin it, but then again I just might use Lock-tite Red on the I.D. and see what happens.

kwik

I think one inch is adequate, yes.

I put the FG-84 into a Vailly Fw-190. I think you can see the tank here, just as close as yours;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-gq...cfjQKyisx5bArw

And here it is, flying;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cph9...cfjQKyisx5bArw

rslstft

My Feedback: (10)

Tom,
When I installed the FG-84 in the Corsair for a customer, I installed the fuel tank exactly the same way you have yours and it's worked fine ever since. No problem with fuel delivery or engine breathing.

jkflyer79

My Feedback: (34)

Hey guys,

Has anybody installed theirs with a Saito 57 twin? I just ordered one and I'm curious to see how it will perform.
Thanks
jake

Capt Midnight

Got an email from Morris this afternoon.... Great News!

From Morris:

"The engine runs beautifully two turn of the prop and one flip and away she goes !

Low RPM 1200 high RPM 6100 with a 23 x 10 prop

It is 6pm here now so I will do the YouTube video tomorrow!!"

If all goes well, I should have the engine back to me in time for my Birthday. Will make for a good present to my self.

B.

Morris Mini Motors

Yes lovely engine and runs very good with the FG-84 carb combo

If any one out there have an Evo 7-35 and Evo 9-99 and would like to convert there engine to CDI setup just let me know!

I would like to do a CDI or gas conversion kit for those engines

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Jake,

I have a 57 cc Twin installed in my corsair. Haven't flown it yet but i have seen one of the prototype planes fly with it installed and it has plenty of power for the plane.

It's a good combination for the plane.

jkflyer79

My Feedback: (34)

That's great! Thanks
jake

Thomas Schultz

Good morning...

Russ, KWIK thanks for your reply regarding the carburetor/tank issue. KWIK nice videos...

My first attempt to mount the rudder servo just wasn't working.



so I went back to rear servo beam, opened a small area on the bulk head and made a ply wood support.





Nick I'll be using the STD set up on the F/W and right thrust. I do plan on reinforcing the F/W area.

I will need to do some outside corner stock on the left front of firewall to make room for the exhaust ring. Thinking of plywood glued to the sides or using triangle blocks. Any ideas?

So far so good.

Take care. Tom

njmheli

Hi Morris.

Very nice job on the 7-77 conversion.................got me thinking about my 7-77,already converted by Adrian..................but would love to try the "petrol" conversion.

Couple of questions for you :

What would the "FG 84" carb conversion cost.................guessing it is just a "bolt-on" retro-fit....?

Are you running a high oil content such as 15 to 20% mix...?

Would be great to see the video........

Kind regards..................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Capt.

Looks very nice,waiting to see the video from "Morris".............Looks like you will have to get a bigger prop on there for flying,guess that will be the 22" x 12 3BL Biela you have,will be very interested to see what RPM you can obtain using Gas.............figure to beat will be around 5200 rpm ( ground )...!!!!

Keep it coming.............

Kind regards....................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Tom.

All still looking good for you,thought the sideways mounting of the servo should work better..................good news on the tank,being ok as you have it and this backed-up by other reports from flyers who have done the same or similar...........perfect !!!

Ok,as you can see from my first photo in my earlier posts for the "bulkhead re-working", ( you can see what wood is left from the additional wood I put in the corner,running from top to bottom )... after I had already strengthened the sides,top and bottom areas behind the std F/W,with basic spruce,just to give the added surface contact from rear of F/W.

I would work from the inside of the F/W box,with regard to adding extra ply ............carbon fibre the outside.

I decided to use good 1/2" ply "plate",on the rear of the F/W...running top to bottom.as close to the rear mounting pads that I had already put on,another 1/2" ply "plate" was then cut out,and "notched" to fit on the side fuzz crutch plate.......the two were fitted as tight as I could get to the remainder of the additional spruce that I had put in for the 7-77 strengthening.............The two 1/2" ply plates,were then joined together by more ply from top to bottom,then glassed over.....This was then re-peated for the other side of the fuzz.

My thinking was to make sure that as much load as possible would be spread along the first couple of inches of the fuzz side crutch plates on either side.............,the "carbon fibre weave" plus resin all round the outside to bond the short top and bottom of the F/W box to the sides...etc.I have also gone over all the ply joints where I can with extra epoxy and " Alaphatic wood glue" along the fuzz stringers,again where I could get access to.

You have a "clean" rear of the F/W to work with,so all should be easy.............IMO it is very important on the H9 60cc Corsair to add extra F/W support no matter WHAT ENGINE up front is being used...................TIME SPENT DOING THIS WILL GIVE THE AIR FRAME MORE OF A LIFE + KEEP THAT LUMP ON THE FRONT ALL SECURE..NOT TO FORGET ADDITIONAL C of G WEIGHT THAT HAS TO BE PUT ON THERE ALSO...........But this,as said is only my opinion.

FYI : on the Keleo exhaust ring,it is worth "sealing" the exhaust pressure nipple with some JB weld or similar as if not sealed you will get an oil / hot exhaust blow there. I found that FKM tubing ( thick walled if you can get it ) is better for taking the pressure to the tank..........holds up to the heat on the nipple better that "Original Tygon",plus wire lock the FKM on.

Hope the above gives you some ideas............?

Kind regards...................Nick (UK).

Morris Mini Motors

Hi Nick

I am just in the process of uploading the video now!!

for the fg-84 carb you just need to buy one and fit it to my carb adapter i can sell that separately from my wt carb kit.

Capt Midnight

Morris & Nick,

If I recall correctly, the carb for the FG-84 was about $160.00 USD through Horizon Hobby (very pricey!). The carb is a direct bolt-on to the adapter that Morris sells, and from what I see in the emails coming in from Morris, works very well. The carb is purpose built by Walbro for Saito, and is unique from the standpoint that it has a rotating barrel valve, rather than the standard butterfly valve that is normally used by Walbro.

The choke is a little goofy also, in that the user must screw in a M3 threaded rod to pull back the rotating jet to riches up the mixture. I'm going to look at that issue when I get the engine back and mounted in the airframe.

I'm also ordering one of Morris' WT Walbro carbs for further evaluation.

Nick: you're right. A larger prop may be in order... Either a 23x10 3BL, or a 22x12 3BL as you suggested.

Cheers....

Bob