njmheli

Hi chorner.

Thanks for your comment and also again for your info on the T/W actuator.............cycled mine again ( didn't work for a couple of times !!!...but it hadn't been cycled for some time....put some grease on the slider..)...........tried it again,all ok,working 100%,....I took your advice and have now "beef'd" up the end of the actuator....made a C/F box to fit over it and then applied the epoxy...........very solid now. ( didn't "wiggle" before.........def won't now )..........

Question : With regard to the "new" actuator from Robart,I guess,when it is out there,we just send back the old "units".........???.,being in the UK,you tend to feel a little cut-off from these re-fits for "suspect" items !!!

Will await to hear from you / others as what to do and when !!!!

Thanks again.............

Cheers...................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Joe.

Thank you for your comment,I managed to get "Lt Doc Miller" into his cockpit today.........bit of a "tall guy" !!! I did my "usual thing" with holding in the pilot,"T" pins holding the straps on the harness.
I wired the "clasps" for the lap straps,so as they can not be undone ( tightened the lap strap by the strap buckle ),the shoulder straps can be undone,but are not adjustable...........as he is a tall guy,I managed to wedge his shoes onto a former and just siliconed them to it...........just to stop his legs moving around too much !!!

He appears to be held in place quite firmley !!!

See photo's below............

Cheers...............Nick (UK).

chorner

Well I finally had the chance to get in a good first run on my EVO 7-77. I tried my best to follow the break-in procedure But I'm pretty sure the normal break-in procedure doesn't have 3/4 throttle pushing 6,200rpm on a 22x12 Mejzlik. I'm sure full throttle would be pushing closer to 6,500 rpm or so? Wasn't going to push it past that after only the 3rd run on the engine now, and spitting fuel on my driveway like a mad man running nice and rich. Have to see what prop to go with after another hour of running time.

I'm running Powermaster fuels 20/9 mix (nitro/oil), and after break-in will drop the oil content to 7% with some methanol. Wow does this engine ever have some power on CDI in combination with that fuel and starts were very easy. I sealed up every intake tube on both ends with engine sealant and it has made for a much cleaner engine; perhaps improved performance a bit too? Initially I was worried as my engine was leaking from the intake tubes just sitting on the bench, but took the whole thing apart and did a number on it sealing it all up.

Judging based on these early results, a 22x12 3 blade Biela might just do the trick after all and should get mid 5,000's no problem once broken in.

Posted up a link to a quick video on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlSZiQgeTnM

chorner

Nick, as far as the tailwheel actuator I have no idea what if anything Robart plans to do. Probably more likely if yours fails, they will replace it. I think it'd be too much for the, to replace all units out there?


Edit: figured I may as well post here just incase. Is anyone looking for a deal on a Mejzlik 22x12 prop? I bought 2 of them figuring I'd make use of it, but definitely won't be using the 2nd prop as it's not enough prop for the 7-77 when on CDI ignition and high nitro at least. Running stock the 22x12 seems the best match for the engine.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

So someone from Robart called me today. I asked if the 150 Ziroli retracts (since they are in stock and I could get a discount on them) would fit the H9 and basically, no, not without some modifications. I asked if there were any planned changes to the H9 retracts and he said no. I asked if he knew when Horizon would have them in stock again and he had no idea but said they were putting an order together for them. He didn't really seem interested in finding when they would be shipping out the order to horizon. Soo not much help really.

Then I called Sierra, don't know who I talked too but I assume it was Darrell. I asked if he had gear for the H9 corsair and he said no. He said he made a few sets and sold them. Then he said he's had people call and ask him about them so he might make some but he was working on another project first. He said to call him back next week so that's what I'll do. Maybe if a couple other people called he would make them sooner..

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I spoke to him a few days ago. Got the same answer, but I am looking for electric retracts. No go, he doesn't make them. I asked Bruce at Century Jet and as of today, he doesn't have a standard set but is working with his staff to come home with an answer for me. Too late for air in my plane, no room without extensive modifications.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I think you can have down and locked convert them but I think someone said that's another $350... I want electric but there doesn't seem to be any good option for that.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

The one that failed is a down and locked. I am going to send them in for them to look at. I am keeping options open and gaining facts on the situation and make a decision after I get it all together.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Im using the Robart 150's in my H9 60 cc Corsair and they fit perfectly!

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

The guy from Robart said the retract angle was different, the chassis was a different width and the strut was a different length. Do you have a pic of the 150's? Don't go out and take one but if you have one handy.. I think I'm pretty set on going with the Sierras though.

njmheli

Hi All.

Another option available,is to convert a set Robart or another set of pnuematics to electric via "another party"...........pretty sure that there are a few companies,like D & L ( they converted my T/F Staggerwing Robarts to electric,some years back )...who are doing this.On my H9 P-47 ( 30cc ),I converted the Robarts by using "Lado" actuators,just "plug and play"............you can also buy a programming card to put in a delay.

Just a thought................? But guess you may have seen / known about this before...?

This is a link for one of their products : http://www.lado-tech.net/en/rs666/59-black-666.html

They also do a "gear door" actuator,this I have also used on the P-47 to convert the tail wheel to electric.

Kind regards..................Nick (UK).

Thomas Schultz

Hi Nick,


Regarding the right off-set. We were able to retain half of the right off-set so I little trim with the rudder might be needed.


Great job on the detailing of your cockpit. When I get to that point of my build don't be surprised if I have some questions.

Take care, Tom

Thomas Schultz

Made room for the Electronic Ignition System:




Battery compartment needed to be modified to allow more room for the wires:




Tom

Cpig

If you go to the Robart page you will see a link to the dimension diagram. They both appear almost identical to me but I just looked briefly. Here is a link to the Hangar9 Corsair version, you can also look at the 150E. The strut length and axle diameter look slightly different.
http://robart.com/collections/gear-f...tric-main-gear

Darryl / Sierra GS told me he was "making them on Monday" for 2-3 months before actually cutting a set of gear for another bird. He originally told me he had a set in stock. Quality is unbeatable but customer service is horrible.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Did he say what modification? This was mentioned on another thread as the only difference being the strut length of 10mm.Can anyone confirm?

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

The retract angle between the two are different also one is 95 and the other 100 degrees, not sure if that matters. He said the chassis was slightly different on the phone but looking at the drawings they are the same width. He also mentioned the struts were slightly different lengths. The mounting hones are slightly different, I forgot if they are pre-drilled in the wing or not, if not shouldn't be a big deal. He wasn't real specific and didn't really seem all that excited to be talking to me to be honest.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Okay, I'll mention it again; there is information on the Sierra install further back in the thread including information on what modifications are needed from my builder to install the Sierras. The ones Darrell sold me and at least one other guy, are the ones he makes for a P-40. He told me at the time I got them from him, that he wasn't sure there was going to be enough demand for the H9 Corsair 60cc specific gear to setup for it, but that was about six months ago.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

As I understood it talking to him yesterday these were direct replacements for the Robart gear, no modifications required. He said he's had enough people calling he was going to start making gear for it.

I'll call him next week and see what he says.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Whatever it takes to get the Sierras would be worth it IMHO. I pre-ordered my Corsair when first announced. I got the Robart electric retracts which cost a damn fortune and I wasn't particularly impressed. The tailwheel actuator as some others have noted, was just a joke and the mains weren't much better. So as problems popped up in this thread about the Robart electrics, I asked Robart if I could exchange mine for the pneumatics which they let me do, but they charged me a $100.00 return/exchange fee and would only give me a Robart credit for the other $100.00 they owed me on the deal. When the Sierras showed up, comparing them to the Robarts was just a joke. I gave both sets to my builder and asked him to use the Sierras if possible which he did.

As I understand it, all the Robart electric actuators are built by Down & Locked? If that's the case and I think it is, I wouldn't use those puppies on a trainer. Had I known who was doing the electric conversions I would not have ordered them in the first place. Take a look in the Jet Forum here and you'll see a bunch of issues with the D&L stuff. My friend had them convert the gear in his SebArt Avaniti S like the one in my avatar, converted to electric. He's burned out three control units and one main gear actuator on the bench. One control unit was his fault the other two failed on the bench. When they started flying it, it seemed okay for a few flights and we took it to BITW. It flew once and was fine, the second flight the nose gear would not retract. He's so disgusted he's not even tinkered with the model since the California trip.

Now it could be worse; if you opt for the factory gear on an AW P-51 you get worse. Those were supposed to come with Robarts but got a cheap Chineses copy instead. Mine has the Sierras, 'nuff said.....

chorner

I really wish there were some solid electric retracts out there. Push Sierra to start producing some Or what about Lado electric retracts, are they any good?

Unfortunately I have the same general opinion about Robart stuff being a pile of crap. Even eFlite electric retracts are twice as reliable and more robust.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

My buddy bought the 60cc H9 Mustang with the Eflite electric gear and they look REALLY nice.

When I call Sierra next week I was going to ask about electric and if he would sell them without the pneumatic actuators at a reduced cost. If not I'll probably just go pneumatic and be done with it. If he will I was going to look into the Lado conversion, I'll look into it before I talk to him.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I've had good results with Robart air. Are you talking about electrics?

jonyfever

My Feedback: (5)

well i bought zeebs old robarts and have cycled those puppies a couple dozen times before i flew the plane and now have had about a dozen flights on the robart air retracts and not one problem i do agree though the d l conversions aint worth a nickle good idea but not yet perfected most of the jet guys out here use the beotech electic conversions and never a problem german made by the way thanks zeeb all is good.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

Looking for some help/data, please.

I am going to be installing the Keleo firewall system for the 84 on my plane this weekend, the kit shows up today. I want to ensure I get close to the right amount of right thrust. Can I get someone to check the distance from the tip of a prop to the leading edge of the wing on both left and right on a factory setup? My mentor from 40 years ago taught me to ensure you have enough right and down thrust to know you have no left or up. Good advice, but he was also a precision machinist that created the most fantastic and precise planes. He would also figure out the right number. Any help anyone can provide would be appreciated.

Yes, the right answer would have been to capture that before I took the firewall off, but I was working in haste. It is what it is. I now search out friendly help.

chorner

Yes, the electrics in specific.