BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I have those e-flite racks on my 60cc P-51 and they drop at normal flying speed.

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Clover,
Love that paint scheme. Nicely done. Seems I will be real close with the 3 lbs I put in last night, bolted to the engine box on top. I used the stock g62 muffler which is considerably heavier than the jtec you have. Have you flown it yet?

clover creek

Todd,
Flights 6,7,8 were performed at the AMA Scale Nats last week! Flight 8 was shortened halfway through because I had and aileron come unplugged that got caught on the retracts. I was able to save the plane but nicked the prop on landing and couldn't get in my last flight.
I ended up taking 2nd in R/C Scale sportsman with a staic score of 93. I was and still am a proud puppy for my first attempt at flying with the big boys in scale
Good luck with your plane,,they fly great!

see you soon,
John.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

Congratulations on your time at the Nats. I was planning to attend this year with the Lucky Gallon Corsair but I didn't have the retracts (still don't) in time to make it. I will be there next year.

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Wow, that's awesome! Congrats on the achievement. Perhaps I'll see you at an event around the Midwest sometime. Fondulac will be the only big one for me this year.
Hope to have mine ready for maiden flight next week.
Take care
Todd

njmheli

Hi All.

Firstly,well done "John" on your finished Corsair,great job and a worthy result for you...............well deserved !!!!

Very near to getting the Corsair finished off,just the Port wing to do with decals and M/C gun port surrounds + the c of g...........I thought I would try to recess the M/C port surrounds...........don't think it turned out too bad for me,quite a bit of extra work...........has anybody else done this..? Recessed the "stall-step" a little aswell.........a bit more of finishing ( paint ) to do on the ports ......( are those "surrounds" tricky or what !!! )

Regards....................Nick (UK).

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

That looks great, way better than stock, any advice on how to do it?

njmheli

Hi Camss69.

I will do my best to explain what I did for you..............It will take a "little" time,patience and careful cutting with a very sharp scalpel or modeling knife !!!!

On my "surrounds" I noticed that these will only fit correctly ( or nearly correctly !! ) one way only along the LE of the wing............well in my case this was true !!!

First was to cut out each "surround" ( with care as if you try to use normal scissors,you will end up by splitting them ).....if you look at the rear of the "surround", and move it in the light conditions you have in the workshop,you will see the moulding marks,which give you the shape to sand to,I used a fine dremel sanding drum.

The hole in the wing requires opening a little more,add a champher ( lead in ) aswell............but don't go too mad with this........try fitting one of the "surrounds" into the LE,it should fit better in one way than the other.....

Add some masking tape along the LE,where the "surrounds" will be fitting into,allow enough to cover the area above and below the C/L of the LE..........

Press the "surround" firmly into the LE,the best way it will fit and look ok.........whilst pressing in quite firmly,mark on the tape the outline with a pencil,this is your cut line...

Cut just inside the marked outline with a very sharp knife ( with care,watch your fingers !!! ).......only cut down to approx 1mm MAX,it is then just a question of shaving out to obtain to get a good fit......by trial and error...........this is where the time and patience come in after having picked up the "surrounds" countless times from the workshop floor whilst sanding to the correct shape !!!

Note : Treat each surround as an indervidual,as you will not get each one exactly the same..ie : I numbered my surrounds 1 to 6,likewise with the "recessed" holes in the wing,therefore each one went into it's own bespoke hole !!!

The m/c barrels were made by using 15mm lengths of K & S 7/32 x 0.14 ali tube ( pt # 8105 ).........

The insides of the "surrounds" were painted "flat black",hole was made in the centre ( you will see a centre "nipple" on the moulding )...........be very careful when you cut the hole for the barrel as the plastic is "ULTRA THIN " in that area,,,,,,,,,,breath on it and you will make a hole !!!
The barrels can be either cyno or epoxied to the rear of the surround............I also made plugs for the bore of the barrels...stops all the airflow from getting to the inside of the wing.

The complete assy,was then epoxied using 5 min epoxy,whilst I was firmly pushing it in the hole..............not too long to stay in one position,found it best to use your finger or thumb in the centre of the "surround" to keep ir pressed into the recess until dry........

Then onto the others..........

Sorry for the long post...............hope it may be of help...???

Regards.................Nick (UK).

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Awesome, thanks for the detailed reply! Sounds like a lot of work and patients but looks like it's really worth the effort. Hope mine come out as good.

chorner

One other tip for those gun ports in general.... get them in place as best you can (I used a soldering iron to open up the holes fully, as all that was blocking the fit was excess covering/residue) and glue them in with epoxy pay attention to orientation. Then just use a heat gun lightly until the plastic is soft enough to shape with your fingers, then shape it until it fits the curve of the LE of the wing, and sits flush all the way around. I used a thin cloth and my thumbs... Easy as 1..2..3, not much thought put into installing them in that sense.

To add gun ports, I'd just cut a thin piece of balsa into a circle to fit in the back of the plastic piece, and to that a small piece of aluminum tubing. Glue, paint it up and voila! The most difficult part IMO is taking the time -and a nice steady hand- to dremel the ports nice and round.

P.S- Nick, nice job btw! You can tell you spent time on those for sure

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

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radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I would like to see your spread sheet.

Even those of us who can afford an Xicoy may not want to spend $300 when a few small digital scales will accomplish the same thing with only a little extra work. I ordered two 18 lb scales and one 11 lb scale and the total price was $50.

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Just completed flight #40 after having flown her for about a year now.......

Had a complete pneumatic gear failure as the tank "rotated" in the mount and pinched off an air line! The plane is very tough and the gear up landing with NO FLAPS proved to me the way to go.....not a scratch on her ....as land on grass.

My tailwheel assembly has failed--last flight the wheel departed along with the shaft the runs up to the clevis. Ordered a new assembly $49.95.

I am on my 3rd sliding canopy.....it just doesn't want to stay closed (I use tape now to help it stay shut in flight)

My airplane has a G-62 and it is no speed demo but does fly scale. I have had thoughts on kit bashing it into a F2G Race plane....Anyone tried that yet?
Also wonder if anyone has ordered a "lettering and markings" decal set....fuel tank cap, no push, etc....50 cal gun bays......? Is there such a product?

Fly safe boys!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Monday I had the pleasure of flying the maiden flight on a friends H9 Corsair with a Saito FG84.
The initial pull as the power comes up was good but topped out early so we know the prop choice was incorrect. In flight the plane needed very little trim and handled wind very well. It tracked nicely in a very good crosswind hands free. This is a heavy model and I figured out quickly that it needs a gentle but firm hand. I did a couple stall tests up high and both times the departure was to the left and gentle after a long mushy stall. Pretty nice and predictable.
The Saito engine has had about 5-6hrs of bench time. It has that characteristic miss and stumble in the mid range that Ray English's mod removes. Having experienced that I can say I would be disappointed in buying this engine and having it run like that. I was concerned but I just stuck to the flying plan keeping it high enough in case the engine quit. Not something you want to think about with that expensive of an engine and complete model. He will be changing out the prop to a two blade carbon 24x10 and Im sure the plane will fly with more authority after that. Im not sure which three blade he chose but it was under propped.

Landing it was the hard part. With its weight, prop and lack of a good throttle curve it was tough to make small power adjustments on final. The first touchdown was a little bumpy but I manged to keep it safe by adding more power to smooth it out.
Topped off the tank and went right back up. I made a quick adjustment to the throttle curve to fix the trim and response. Took off and just circled back on final again. With a little more speed this time and a little bit of flap the initial touch was soft but Ive learned quickly with this plane you have to release the elevator as it touches down to prevent popping it back up. The Top Flite Corsair is less critical in my opinion. It could be the CG or the stiff Sierra springs in the struts but it does require a soft touch to land so far.

This will all be tuned up and improved with each flight but so far its pretty stable and generally easy to fly. No characteristic tail wag this time but I didnt really push the top speed so that remains to be seen. The TF Corsair does have a wag at speed and Im interested to see them in flight together later this season for a nice comparison with the same engines installed.

Happy landings

njmheli

HI.

This may be of help to you..............had these made up by "Callie Graphics",so guess you could ask to use my original "artwork"...just a thought.........pretty sure Callie can change the font / colour as required for you..........possibly onto vinyl..?

Regards................Nick (UK).

njmheli

Hi Chris.

Thanks for your "maiden" info on your friend's Corsair...............would be interested to know what 3 BL prop was fitted for your flights..........as you said / thought under-propped.?

Regards..............Nick (UK).

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

For anyone interested I did a thread on the CG method using three scales: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tips...ge-planes.html

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Kinda like the xicoy w/o the fancy computer?

Ted62

My Feedback: (2)

Looks great, Nick! I'd also add as did someone else that some heat really helps during the final fitting of the gun ports. Regarding my experience with the HH9 Corsair (60cc), I came up short on my second landing causing the gear to snag some tall grass at the end of the runway and during the nose-over, the rudder was smashed and the engine/firewall separated from the fuselage. It was completely my fault as the plane flew beautifully with the 7-77 radial (22x12 2 blade). The accident happened about a month ago and I am finally ready to bolt the engine back on and re-balance the plane. The hardest part was rebuilding the rudder and blending it back into the fiberglass turtle deck. The firewall on this plane is not very well thought out imho. The engineers who designed the plane knew from the start it would be tail heavy - therefore, why the front end wasn't built with heavier (thicker) plywood is a mystery. Adding sufficient lead to the firewall area should make everyone a bit nervous - it took the accident and the resulting fracture of the front end for me to fully realize the reason for my comments. After reinforcing the firewall, I think a similar accident might not produce as much damage.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with the weak construction of the firewall. I opted for the Keleo firewall modification which I feel strengthens the front end immensely and it centers the 84 in the cowl so no holes are needed for the cover. Sorry to hear about your "ding" that seemed to have been a higher damaged area than it should have been.

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Well, we put the maiden on mine Tuesday night. I'm happy to report all went well, just some up trim for it to fly straight and level. Everything worked great. It sank a little quicker than I thought it would during landing and I have to grab a lot of elevator to keep it from hitting and bouncing. May be a tad nose heavy but need more flights to get that tuned in for sure, only 2 short flights on Tuesday. After a maiden I like to get the wing off and look around to see what may have shaken loose so I'll do that this weekend. It'll be ready for Fond Du Lac next week. Overall quite happy and looking forward to many great flights!

PS, a little disappointed in how the decals turned out so likely I'll order some vinyl ones over winter to clean it up.

chorner

Nice to hear about more maidens! Just a note on the firewall being "weak". Make sure the engine box is securely glued to the fiberglassed firewall portion (circular part of the firewall the engine box protrudes through). It's using decently beefy construction there but I found it wasn't fully expoxied securely to the engine box and it could move a bit if reefed on. Glue that up nice and strong and no issues. I did also glue extra triangle stock behind the firewall however. That being said, if you hit the ground and smashed the rudder... you hit really hard. I managed to nose mine over, and the only damage was to the cowl mounting tabs - it made a nice "thud" when it came to a halt upside down. My wheel spun sideways in the oleo and shot the plane back into the air momentarily and landed face first, then flipped decently hard straight onto its back and rudder.

Definitely need ever to slow this bird down a bit more once low to the runway and ease it in, and I'm finding I would like to soften the springs a little bit as she's a bit bouncy.

Also... I have to say, this 7-77 on CDI with a 24x10 prop has tons of pull and way more than enough speed flat out. I'm finding I don't even need full throttle for a good pull out off a textile runway. I have mine turning 6,250 on the ground richened up a bit. Switched to rim fire plus and running 16% nitro and 7% oil with some castor. Awesome power, definitely not overheating and while fuel consumption isn't amazing I can get an easy 10-12 minute flight plus warmup and taxing in and out. Can't see how you'd want more outside of trying to get a more scale 3 blade prop swinging enough RPMs

loving this plane more and more on every outing. Only the initial issue but rock solid since.

Ted62

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the comments. I suppose when one looks at the firewall construction from the "outside" (pre-crash and pre-separation-lol), you're pretty well restricted as to what you can do to beef it up - hence, I believe all of us have added corner bracing and epoxy to help secure what's there. My point, after rebuilding the front end, is to criticize Horizon for not specifying thicker plywood in that area for added strength - especially considering the fact that nearly a kg of lead needs to be stuck somewhere to balance out the tail heavy model. Why not use heavier, thicker wood (other than the cost issue) - just my 2 cents? I know cost is always at the forefront with any company, but, another couple of bucks for and additional 2 mm or so of thickness would be my preference. Regarding my crash - I had full flaps employed and mis-judged the end of runway while still using 1/3 throttle - damn high grass at the end caught the mains and flipped the plane over hard. I also had about 400 g of lead in the front rim of the cowling which didn't help matters. This time, I have made provisions to keep most of the counter-balance lead on the top of the firewall. I love the aircraft - the Corsair is my favorite warbird - and the first two flights (sans the last landing attempt) were nothing short of spectacular. I hate being too judgmental since we all know what we are doing when buying an "ARF". This forum has been invaluable and I hope I've added a small amount of useful information for anyone thinking of building the H9 60 cc Corsair.

chorner

Hey Ted, apologies if I came off too judgemental myself! I've been known to do that when typing out a quick reply :P Just "bluntly" type what comes to mind haha. I do agree with your statement about thicker plywood and adding a bit of weight; why not right? And I've even had to add about 4 ounces even with the throttle servo up front. I just -myself- fail to see how it's inadequate on mine at least. I've had several other beefs about the plane in general, but haven't found that part of the plane to be inadequately designed... at least not yet! *knock on wood*

The plane comes down rather quickly once power is dropped doesn't it? I've found for me anyhow, that I've had much smoother landings when I've deployed half flaps for the final turn, then establishing a good descent rate while then extending full flaps for the final approach once I feel it's lined up. That way it bleeds all of it's speed off closer to touchdown. Adds another thing to think about while lining up a landing, but I've found it behaves more how I'd like. Not sure how you do your approaches at all of course, just saying what's seemed to work "best" for me after trying to figure out the best/shortest distance to get the plane down safely and in control.

ForcesR

Just thought I would throw this bit of info in for those who might not be aware. With all the videos I watched of the full size Corsair, the pilots only lower the flaps when the aircraft is on final approach.

Roger