Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
09-14-2016, 04:17 PM
#2352
Maybe some of the guys who've been flying theirs recently will be able to help but let me say this; the initial CG is just that, initial. It's designed to get you into the air and back down safely. The CG will change a bit between retracted and extended but the thing you want to remember is do not Maiden a Warbird with an aft CG, you're likely to not get it down again.
Once that's done, you adjust the CG to your liking.
Once that's done, you adjust the CG to your liking.
09-15-2016, 06:18 AM
#2354
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Hi All.
Well,looks as if this thread is going to get big.............!!!
I too have placed my order here in the UK for the Corsair,but not sure when it will be arriving,I have been told that it will be in "limited" numbers here in the UK.........not sure why that is !!!
I received my 7-77 a couple of weeks back and have started the "running-in" process...........so far 2hours running.
I could not find any suitable fuel to use and could not purchase any "methanol" to blend myself.........I contacted the CEO "Andy" at OPTIFUEL ( I use this brand of fuel on all my IC's..non-petro ),must say what a great company and customer service they provide.I placed an order with them for the fuel mixes as per Evolution's specs and within a week,I received all the fuel blends that are required for "running-in" and flying........using straight and nitro.OPTIFUEL use "Koltz" oil in their blends.
Starting the radial was bit of a problem ( my own making !!! ).........I never use an electric starter on my radials,always hand-swing !!! I chose to use the McDaniel ( Sonic-Tronics) on board glow system,again great customer service from McDaniel in the US.
The problem that I made for myself was not to set the throttle open enough to get the engine to run ( not enough air was getting in with the rich fuel mixture),I would prime/choke the radial,swing it..started for a few revolutions,then stopped !!! I also set up the on-board glow slightly differently to the instructions..........but that worked fine,a very clever on-board glow system !!!
All in all,I must say that I am very pleased with the radial,it appears to have plenty of power,I have been riunning on a 22" x 10 2BL,but have now switched to the Solo 3BL set up,will be running that from now on as this is the set up I would like to use in the Corsair.
The sound it makes is awesome............and because the 7-77 will be running on less oil content than the OS / Saito / ASP radials,the "mess" will be alot less if hardly any atall !!!
This is a photo of the 7-77 on it's test stand
Regards..............Nick (UK).
Well,looks as if this thread is going to get big.............!!!
I too have placed my order here in the UK for the Corsair,but not sure when it will be arriving,I have been told that it will be in "limited" numbers here in the UK.........not sure why that is !!!
I received my 7-77 a couple of weeks back and have started the "running-in" process...........so far 2hours running.
I could not find any suitable fuel to use and could not purchase any "methanol" to blend myself.........I contacted the CEO "Andy" at OPTIFUEL ( I use this brand of fuel on all my IC's..non-petro ),must say what a great company and customer service they provide.I placed an order with them for the fuel mixes as per Evolution's specs and within a week,I received all the fuel blends that are required for "running-in" and flying........using straight and nitro.OPTIFUEL use "Koltz" oil in their blends.
Starting the radial was bit of a problem ( my own making !!! ).........I never use an electric starter on my radials,always hand-swing !!! I chose to use the McDaniel ( Sonic-Tronics) on board glow system,again great customer service from McDaniel in the US.
The problem that I made for myself was not to set the throttle open enough to get the engine to run ( not enough air was getting in with the rich fuel mixture),I would prime/choke the radial,swing it..started for a few revolutions,then stopped !!! I also set up the on-board glow slightly differently to the instructions..........but that worked fine,a very clever on-board glow system !!!
All in all,I must say that I am very pleased with the radial,it appears to have plenty of power,I have been riunning on a 22" x 10 2BL,but have now switched to the Solo 3BL set up,will be running that from now on as this is the set up I would like to use in the Corsair.
The sound it makes is awesome............and because the 7-77 will be running on less oil content than the OS / Saito / ASP radials,the "mess" will be alot less if hardly any atall !!!
This is a photo of the 7-77 on it's test stand
Regards..............Nick (UK).
for the post above didn't put the quote in sorry
09-25-2016, 12:06 PM
#2355
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Hi All,
Minor mishap at a flyin this weekend. One of the main wheels twisted on landing. Flipped the plane over. No damage to the fuse, but the gear blocks on the starboard side were ripped out of the center section. This is the third time it happened. You just can't tighten that bolt enough to keep it from twisting. Will find a way to pin them next time. Does anyone have a center section they are looking to sell?
Thanks,
Nick
Minor mishap at a flyin this weekend. One of the main wheels twisted on landing. Flipped the plane over. No damage to the fuse, but the gear blocks on the starboard side were ripped out of the center section. This is the third time it happened. You just can't tighten that bolt enough to keep it from twisting. Will find a way to pin them next time. Does anyone have a center section they are looking to sell?
Thanks,
Nick
09-25-2016, 12:37 PM
#2356
Hi All,
Minor mishap at a flyin this weekend. One of the main wheels twisted on landing. Flipped the plane over. No damage to the fuse, but the gear blocks on the starboard side were ripped out of the center section. This is the third time it happened. You just can't tighten that bolt enough to keep it from twisting. Will find a way to pin them next time. Does anyone have a center section they are looking to sell?
Thanks,
Nick
Minor mishap at a flyin this weekend. One of the main wheels twisted on landing. Flipped the plane over. No damage to the fuse, but the gear blocks on the starboard side were ripped out of the center section. This is the third time it happened. You just can't tighten that bolt enough to keep it from twisting. Will find a way to pin them next time. Does anyone have a center section they are looking to sell?
Thanks,
Nick
thank you.
behzad
09-25-2016, 04:18 PM
#2357
Loctite on the strut...
Also if that doesn't spin around, eventually the Y (yoke) that guides the roatation of the retracts will snap once you get the main bolt tightened. The Robart gear is crap
Also if that doesn't spin around, eventually the Y (yoke) that guides the roatation of the retracts will snap once you get the main bolt tightened. The Robart gear is crap
09-25-2016, 04:24 PM
#2358
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What I usually do for that problem when the strut shaft turns inside the trunnion.
First , . After I Line up the wheels, like I want. I tighten all the set screws, I turn the plane upside down and wick green loctite all the way around the strut shaft going into the trunnion---just not to much ...Make sure you clean the strut and the hole it goes into with degreaser, brake fluid, etc. . The green loctite takes a few days to dry . But once it is dry, it typically will not turn on landing. This has worked for me over a forty period with good results.
If you use blue loctite on the set screws, only use a small amount. I usually use purple loctite that I buy from Harbor Freight. It has less holding power then blue Also never use Red, that is made for much larger bolts, not really for our hobby in 95% of the time .
Before you strip the head on a set screw being held in with loctite. Place your tip of your solder pen/gun on the set screw before you turn it. The heat will allow it to come loose much easier. If you strip the allen head, your screwed, you have a lot of work ahead of you to extract it.
First , . After I Line up the wheels, like I want. I tighten all the set screws, I turn the plane upside down and wick green loctite all the way around the strut shaft going into the trunnion---just not to much ...Make sure you clean the strut and the hole it goes into with degreaser, brake fluid, etc. . The green loctite takes a few days to dry . But once it is dry, it typically will not turn on landing. This has worked for me over a forty period with good results.
If you use blue loctite on the set screws, only use a small amount. I usually use purple loctite that I buy from Harbor Freight. It has less holding power then blue Also never use Red, that is made for much larger bolts, not really for our hobby in 95% of the time .
Before you strip the head on a set screw being held in with loctite. Place your tip of your solder pen/gun on the set screw before you turn it. The heat will allow it to come loose much easier. If you strip the allen head, your screwed, you have a lot of work ahead of you to extract it.
09-25-2016, 04:44 PM
#2359
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I agree with you.
I just purchased the Corsair H9 with retracts from Horizon Hobby on their Labor Day sale. with a Saito FG84R3 . Just to find out that Saito has never corrected their problems that they have had, for more then 2 1/2 years, with this FG 84R3 motor. They instead, are coming out, with a new motor, the FG90R3.. Which I have told, they have corrected the problems that the FG84 still has with the new motor design. Wow, ain't that just great customer service at work...So, now I get to spend more money and send it off to Ray, to have it modified to correct the FG84 Saito problems.
The retracts aren't much better but I can work around it. I should have purchased Sierra retracts,just more money IMHO
I just purchased the Corsair H9 with retracts from Horizon Hobby on their Labor Day sale. with a Saito FG84R3 . Just to find out that Saito has never corrected their problems that they have had, for more then 2 1/2 years, with this FG 84R3 motor. They instead, are coming out, with a new motor, the FG90R3.. Which I have told, they have corrected the problems that the FG84 still has with the new motor design. Wow, ain't that just great customer service at work...So, now I get to spend more money and send it off to Ray, to have it modified to correct the FG84 Saito problems.
The retracts aren't much better but I can work around it. I should have purchased Sierra retracts,just more money IMHO
Last edited by rampage-1; 09-25-2016 at 04:47 PM.
09-26-2016, 08:16 AM
#2360
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DUCMOZ, Here's a pic of the bolt I'm talking about. It allows you to adjust the lower strut so the wheel tracks properly.
chorner, I think you're right. I'm just moving the point of failure elsewhere. But, this point has failed three times. Time to try something different. Maybe I should mention that these are the electric gear. I don't think this part of the mech is different though. I plan on drilling and tapping the lower strut where shown for a 4-40 socket head screw, then drilling a slightly bigger hole in the adjustable sleeve connected to the oleo. Anyone see problems with this?
Rampage, I'd try your approach, but the damage is so bad when the wheel twists, I'll try the drill and tap fix. If the Y yoke breaks next, maybe I need flying (landing!!) lessons.
Thanks all,
Nick
chorner, I think you're right. I'm just moving the point of failure elsewhere. But, this point has failed three times. Time to try something different. Maybe I should mention that these are the electric gear. I don't think this part of the mech is different though. I plan on drilling and tapping the lower strut where shown for a 4-40 socket head screw, then drilling a slightly bigger hole in the adjustable sleeve connected to the oleo. Anyone see problems with this?
Rampage, I'd try your approach, but the damage is so bad when the wheel twists, I'll try the drill and tap fix. If the Y yoke breaks next, maybe I need flying (landing!!) lessons.
Thanks all,
Nick
09-26-2016, 04:21 PM
#2361
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For what it's worth, 50 flights with Robarts air retracts and no gear issues with my Hanger 9 Corsair. This warbirds lands so easily and lightly that I can't see how the main gear can be damaged unless the CG is to far forward. The tail wheel retract is an issue and has caused me some problems that I have still not complely resolved.
09-26-2016, 04:52 PM
#2362
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Hi
What CG are you flying at. Also did you do the CG like the manual states, with the retracts down . Also did you mount the gas tank over the CG line are the location the manual shows. The reason I ask for warbirds I have always mounted the gas tank at CG are maybe a 1/8in forward of CG so when fuel burns off it does not effect the CG , kind of like flying a electric setup. For the retracts. I alway balance the plane with the retracts up, like the way I fly. With the Corsair when the retracts come down it will throw the CG forward, but not that much.
What CG are you flying at. Also did you do the CG like the manual states, with the retracts down . Also did you mount the gas tank over the CG line are the location the manual shows. The reason I ask for warbirds I have always mounted the gas tank at CG are maybe a 1/8in forward of CG so when fuel burns off it does not effect the CG , kind of like flying a electric setup. For the retracts. I alway balance the plane with the retracts up, like the way I fly. With the Corsair when the retracts come down it will throw the CG forward, but not that much.
10-19-2016, 11:04 AM
#2363
I am in the final stages of getting mine going. It took right at 3 lbs to balance. I have about a pound in the nose ring of the cowling, and two on the motor box. Put the C.G. at 127 with the wheels down.
It came with a futaba radio and I switched it to the spektrum DX 18 cause I am comfortable with it.
The gear have quite a bit of toe in so I think I need to take some out.
I have spent a fair amount of time going through it since I did not build it. The guys at NASA did a great job!
My only remaining concern is if the FG60r3 will be enough engine at 6000 feet. They told me the engine has the Ray English mods. I have ran a couple of tanks through it, it sure runs nice! Concerned none the less.
It came with a futaba radio and I switched it to the spektrum DX 18 cause I am comfortable with it.
The gear have quite a bit of toe in so I think I need to take some out.
I have spent a fair amount of time going through it since I did not build it. The guys at NASA did a great job!
My only remaining concern is if the FG60r3 will be enough engine at 6000 feet. They told me the engine has the Ray English mods. I have ran a couple of tanks through it, it sure runs nice! Concerned none the less.
10-19-2016, 12:47 PM
#2364
I am in the final stages of getting mine going. It took right at 3 lbs to balance. I have about a pound in the nose ring of the cowling, and two on the motor box. Put the C.G. at 127 with the wheels down.
It came with a futaba radio and I switched it to the spektrum DX 18 cause I am comfortable with it.
The gear have quite a bit of toe in so I think I need to take some out.
I have spent a fair amount of time going through it since I did not build it. The guys at NASA did a great job!
My only remaining concern is if the FG60r3 will be enough engine at 6000 feet. They told me the engine has the Ray English mods. I have ran a couple of tanks through it, it sure runs nice! Concerned none the less.
It came with a futaba radio and I switched it to the spektrum DX 18 cause I am comfortable with it.
The gear have quite a bit of toe in so I think I need to take some out.
I have spent a fair amount of time going through it since I did not build it. The guys at NASA did a great job!
My only remaining concern is if the FG60r3 will be enough engine at 6000 feet. They told me the engine has the Ray English mods. I have ran a couple of tanks through it, it sure runs nice! Concerned none the less.
10-20-2016, 03:00 PM
#2366
I have been concerned about that from the beginning.
The plane is tricked out with gear doors, bomb drop.
I am not experienced with large gas planes and do not want to fight it in the air.
That said I posted the motor for sale in the market place.
10-20-2016, 09:13 PM
#2367
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Thanks for the info, radfordc and edge_pilot.
I have been concerned about that from the beginning.
The plane is tricked out with gear doors, bomb drop.
I am not experienced with large gas planes and do not want to fight it in the air.
That said I posted the motor for sale in the market place.
I have been concerned about that from the beginning.
The plane is tricked out with gear doors, bomb drop.
I am not experienced with large gas planes and do not want to fight it in the air.
That said I posted the motor for sale in the market place.
10-20-2016, 09:46 PM
#2368
Sorry but these guys who live at Sea Level don't really comprehend what happens to us folks who live/fly at higher altitudes, especially in the Summer.
The FG60 isn't going to cover things even while cold, in the summer where your density altitude will hit somewhere around 10,000 feet, you won't even be able to fly.
My field elevation is 4500' ASL and the FG-84 with Ray's mods does okay. I have friends who have the Evo 7-77 who fly at 2500' ASL and in the Summer it's barely enough. There is a new FG-90 coming out which is supposed to incorporate Ray's mods, or word has it that you can buy an 84 from Ray with the mods and the Keleo exhaust at a good price. I would not consider the 84 without Ray's mods.
The FG60 isn't going to cover things even while cold, in the summer where your density altitude will hit somewhere around 10,000 feet, you won't even be able to fly.
My field elevation is 4500' ASL and the FG-84 with Ray's mods does okay. I have friends who have the Evo 7-77 who fly at 2500' ASL and in the Summer it's barely enough. There is a new FG-90 coming out which is supposed to incorporate Ray's mods, or word has it that you can buy an 84 from Ray with the mods and the Keleo exhaust at a good price. I would not consider the 84 without Ray's mods.
10-23-2016, 12:06 PM
#2369
Sorry but these guys who live at Sea Level don't really comprehend what happens to us folks who live/fly at higher altitudes, especially in the Summer.
The FG60 isn't going to cover things even while cold, in the summer where your density altitude will hit somewhere around 10,000 feet, you won't even be able to fly.
My field elevation is 4500' ASL and the FG-84 with Ray's mods does okay. I have friends who have the Evo 7-77 who fly at 2500' ASL and in the Summer it's barely enough. There is a new FG-90 coming out which is supposed to incorporate Ray's mods, or word has it that you can buy an 84 from Ray with the mods and the Keleo exhaust at a good price. I would not consider the 84 without Ray's mods.
The FG60 isn't going to cover things even while cold, in the summer where your density altitude will hit somewhere around 10,000 feet, you won't even be able to fly.
My field elevation is 4500' ASL and the FG-84 with Ray's mods does okay. I have friends who have the Evo 7-77 who fly at 2500' ASL and in the Summer it's barely enough. There is a new FG-90 coming out which is supposed to incorporate Ray's mods, or word has it that you can buy an 84 from Ray with the mods and the Keleo exhaust at a good price. I would not consider the 84 without Ray's mods.
Yes I have put in my order for the 90!
Also asked if the Keleo exhaust for the 84 will work and Kelvin does not have one yet to test.
I am also getting Keleo's engine box to install it with.
What prop are you using, may have to get a couple?
Kevin
10-23-2016, 03:41 PM
#2370
As for the prop, I'm not 100% positive but I think it's a 22x12 size and it's a Biela 3 blade semi-scale I got from Aircraft International. There is a note about the prop size Fred used on his and I wound up using the same thing. IIRC the video starts off saying it's a 23X12 and somewhere down the line a note comes up about it being a 22x12.
10-23-2016, 04:44 PM
#2372
Yeah they are a bit spendy, but they sure look nice. Word has it that there was something of a copy rite issue with the little Hamilton Standard decals. So the ones on the props look exactly like a Ham/Standard decal, but they say "Hamilton Biela" on the stickers. I don't know for sure if that's a true story, but it's a pretty good one.
Also, if you get around to comparing props, Bielas load the engines more than almost any prop I've used on a gasser and I think that's due to the larger cord length of the blades that Biela uses versus other brands.
Also, if you get around to comparing props, Bielas load the engines more than almost any prop I've used on a gasser and I think that's due to the larger cord length of the blades that Biela uses versus other brands.