YA P-38 Build
09-08-2014, 08:17 PM
#103
QUESTION:
What have you guys done for the tail boom radiators?
Ive seen them blacked out but I was wondering if they are blocked, screened or ??
I was thinking of using an aluminum craft screen and painting it black. This is totally not scale and Im not spending much time on radiator details but Im not a fan of gaping holes either. Any photos of solutions welcome.
What have you guys done for the tail boom radiators?
Ive seen them blacked out but I was wondering if they are blocked, screened or ??
I was thinking of using an aluminum craft screen and painting it black. This is totally not scale and Im not spending much time on radiator details but Im not a fan of gaping holes either. Any photos of solutions welcome.
09-08-2014, 08:21 PM
#105
The owner doesnt want to add that level of detail, he calls it a 10 Footer, lol.
Personally, this model has a lot of scale issues that would need to be addressed in addition to adding rivets and details. For the time and effort Id rather have a better base model to work from. Its just not in the budget for this one. If I own it later then I may address that stuff and paint it olive drab with stripes or something I like better.
Personally, this model has a lot of scale issues that would need to be addressed in addition to adding rivets and details. For the time and effort Id rather have a better base model to work from. Its just not in the budget for this one. If I own it later then I may address that stuff and paint it olive drab with stripes or something I like better.
09-08-2014, 08:26 PM
#107
But! I did have to add weight in radiators for balance and the doors are something I wanted to add as a partial fix. I could see how you could make resin cast bell mouth intakes, cast resin radiators and then exit doors. (That sounded old school, I meant to say 3D Printed not cast resin, lol)
09-08-2014, 08:32 PM
#109
My Feedback: (24)
But! I did have to add weight in radiators for balance and the doors are something I wanted to add as a partial fix. I could see how you could make resin cast bell mouth intakes, cast resin radiators and then exit doors. (That sounded old school, I meant to say 3D Printed not cast resin, lol)
BTW, did you contact Chad about guns?
09-08-2014, 08:40 PM
#110
I dont know about functional doors but at least static open doors are better than nothing. We'll see, theres also a structural issue in that area around the radiators. I was thinking Id have to reinforce the boom before cutting and modding the radiators. Probably some carbon fiber or a channel structure laminated to the boom inner skin top and bottom.
I did email Chad about them but I think its too expensive and having worked with SLA parts before I know they will require hand finishing work. Id rather make the brass barrels and call it good.
I did email Chad about them but I think its too expensive and having worked with SLA parts before I know they will require hand finishing work. Id rather make the brass barrels and call it good.
09-08-2014, 09:02 PM
#112
My Feedback: (24)
[QUOTE=Chris Nicastro;11876936]I dont know about functional doors but at least static open doors are better than nothing. We'll see, theres also a structural issue in that area around the radiators. I was thinking Id have to reinforce the boom before cutting and modding the radiators. Probably some carbon fiber or a channel structure laminated to the boom inner skin top and bottom.
QUOTE]
It is a weak spot if something happens. Agree, if you're going to mod it, it needs a little extra strength in that area
QUOTE]
It is a weak spot if something happens. Agree, if you're going to mod it, it needs a little extra strength in that area
Last edited by 70 ragtop; 09-08-2014 at 09:11 PM.
09-09-2014, 02:51 PM
#115
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If you want to use something other than aluminum screen for the radiators check at the local car repair shops and ask if they have any old MAF, (mass air flow) sensors laying around. The ones GM use often have a honey comb disc in them to catch debris. The holes are approx 3/32" and the disc is about 1/4" think. They are about 3" in diameter. I have used them for radiators in other models.
09-09-2014, 04:59 PM
#117
My Feedback: (34)
Honeycomb screen can be acquired from Proctor enterprises. Joe Topper carries it for 1/4 scale Fokker's radiators. http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/
I used it for my Vailly Hurricane radiator and a Spifire radiator too. But note, that airflow is pretty restrictive through the honeycomb.
I also think Iflytailies has the material as well, contact Alex.
http://www.iflytailies.com/
I used it for my Vailly Hurricane radiator and a Spifire radiator too. But note, that airflow is pretty restrictive through the honeycomb.
I also think Iflytailies has the material as well, contact Alex.
http://www.iflytailies.com/
Last edited by FireBee; 09-09-2014 at 05:31 PM. Reason: Added links
09-09-2014, 05:24 PM
#118
My Feedback: (24)
Awesome tips guys...thanks!
Couldn't find it on Procters site, but here it is on iflytailies site, about a quarter of the page down
http://www.iflytailies.com/store/custom-items/
Couldn't find it on Procters site, but here it is on iflytailies site, about a quarter of the page down
http://www.iflytailies.com/store/custom-items/
09-10-2014, 06:16 PM
#119
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Chris, I highly recommend using the PPG dcu2060 flex and flat clear. The flatting agent will turn the clear milky and you have to add quite a bit to dull a high solid clear down. If the materials you got are unopened, the paint shop will take them back.
I deal with this almost on a day to day basis, as I work at a shop building high end hotrods.
Travis
This is my BV-141 with the dcu2060 clear
I deal with this almost on a day to day basis, as I work at a shop building high end hotrods.
Travis
This is my BV-141 with the dcu2060 clear
09-10-2014, 07:33 PM
#120
Thanks Travis, I can check into that. Im not sure about the compatibility with these new systems. I used to mix my own real deal hot rod laquers that are banned now by tree huggers. We had to buy them from AZ and NV! You wouldnt happen to have a line on some of the old stuff would you?
I know what you mean about the milky effect and the talc or fillers in the clear will do that.
I used to make a really nice metal finish with laquer that looked like the real thing. I had to make a special mix that was heavy with aluminum powder. I would wet sand between coats and build it up but the spray pattern on this one job made all the difference.
Plan is to paint the aluminum and scuff it to tile panels then clear then airbrush effects on top of that. Im creating layers this way and then add weathering then a final airbrush session of detail. The graphics will be painted as well so thats another layer.
I know what you mean about the milky effect and the talc or fillers in the clear will do that.
I used to make a really nice metal finish with laquer that looked like the real thing. I had to make a special mix that was heavy with aluminum powder. I would wet sand between coats and build it up but the spray pattern on this one job made all the difference.
Plan is to paint the aluminum and scuff it to tile panels then clear then airbrush effects on top of that. Im creating layers this way and then add weathering then a final airbrush session of detail. The graphics will be painted as well so thats another layer.
09-10-2014, 07:50 PM
#121
My Feedback: (24)
Travis
I never had great luck with flattening agents, ends up looking like satin, unless you just dust it. Haven't done enough flat finishes to really figure out what works well. So if you spray DCU2060 on like you're spraying the final clear coat on a car, will the DCU2060 dry totally flat, or do you need to apply it light, or just dust it??
Chris, you're putting graphics, weathering and details over, or under the clear? I read it as all the detail work is going to be on top of the clear??
Looking fwd to seeing some video. Is it down for paint, or going to shake it down a couple more times first
I never had great luck with flattening agents, ends up looking like satin, unless you just dust it. Haven't done enough flat finishes to really figure out what works well. So if you spray DCU2060 on like you're spraying the final clear coat on a car, will the DCU2060 dry totally flat, or do you need to apply it light, or just dust it??
Chris, you're putting graphics, weathering and details over, or under the clear? I read it as all the detail work is going to be on top of the clear??
Looking fwd to seeing some video. Is it down for paint, or going to shake it down a couple more times first
09-11-2014, 10:01 PM
#122
The paint schedule is;
aluminum paint - tiling effect by directional buffing
panel lines
some airbrushing to push tiling further
clear flat
graphics painted on top of clear
weathering effects
airbrush final details
This way it will have some depth to make up for the lack of surface details. If I clear over all the work it will knock down a lot of subtle detail work.
Got all the parts in primer tonight and some sanding started. More sanding and seam filling tomorrow.
aluminum paint - tiling effect by directional buffing
panel lines
some airbrushing to push tiling further
clear flat
graphics painted on top of clear
weathering effects
airbrush final details
This way it will have some depth to make up for the lack of surface details. If I clear over all the work it will knock down a lot of subtle detail work.
Got all the parts in primer tonight and some sanding started. More sanding and seam filling tomorrow.
09-11-2014, 10:14 PM
#125
PST F-84 built by my buddy for another friend. He and I teamed up on the finishing so I did the weathering and airbrush accents.
Im hoping the P-38 metal look will be as good or better than this.
Im hoping the P-38 metal look will be as good or better than this.
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 09-12-2014 at 07:55 AM.