flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

You ought to come out to WBOTX next year and have some fun with us. Good luck and have some serious fun. Keep us posted on the flying

Valve floater

Ok. I got the half and full flaps to work on the c switch. I had to take the servo horn and put it in a diff. position on the spline then re-adj. end points. Thanks Richard. Now i`m working on that blasted tail gear doors. Too tight rubber band to close them and tail wheel won`t pop out. Too loose and one door won`t close. Now replacing hinges and remounting doors. I`m thinking about attaching the rubber band or fishing string directly some where to the retract itself so the doors will open and close. Any ideas? Using Robart air retracts.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

air system and cyl. size could be the problem. not enough power to overcome rubber bands, go electric or servo and those doors will operate just fine.

kochj

on prev. page I saw the mention of using the servo speed programming to control flap deploy...
That is a great way to control ballooning...

I used the slider switch on my Futaba 9cap to control flap speed deployment.
My Hitec A9 has the capacity to edit the speed of servos, but I still used the slider switch..
My futaba 18mz.. has that and much more....
I have yet to fly with it so not sure what I will use...
I wouldn't say that it is necessary to have, but it is nice to program as it takes out some pilot responsibility
so one can concentrate on the landing.....

The 9c and 10c do not have the servo speed programming from radio...but you do have the option to use the s.bus receiver/servo or a s.bus box that allow servo speed, and endpoints to be adjusted independently...

Leroy Gardner

The system for those doors used on the ARF works really well and it uses bands but you could also use small springs. I think the proper location is important and the wheel will also help to kick the doors open. Centering springs need to be used to keep wheel centered and not bind up when lowering gear, also don't lower or close except in straight flight.

Couple of pict's. of how mine is coming along, also my finished 4 blade prop Leroy

Valve floater

Nice job. Got the doors working now. I used 3m hinge tape for a quick fix now. Trying to epoxy the small hinges was a mess. I also tried to hook the rubber bands from the retract section directly to the doors. Seemed like a good idea but they wouldn`t close all the way. I have seen some tail wheels doors online where they use solid linkage from the retract to the doors. Seems to work good w/o rubber bands.

Valve floater

My Mustang is weighed in at 25lbs without fuel. What is the average Mustang weight of fellow flyers here?? Is mine too heavy? Looks like i am on the upper end of the spec`s.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Mine is 25lbs on purpose. That is the weight I like to fly mine at.


Yes it will fly fine.

CRJDriver

My Feedback: (57)

Agreed. 25 pounds is very typical for this model and flies extremely well at this weight.

Valve floater

Thanks for the input. I always thought lighter is better. But 25lbs is within spec`s/

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

The weight is always good when it is windy, espicially if you live in the Texas or Oklahoma panhandle.

Mikecam

Weight is the enemy. 25 lbs sounds about right for a glassed bird. Mine is 19 lbs 15 oz. Flies better then all the others because it is light. Does enormous loops just like the real ones and almost stops in flight to land. No elevator at all with flaps down for me. The DLE 55 with a xoar 21x10 pulls it unlimited straight up. I'll live with the covering with how well it flies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAvSL...2&feature=plcp

Valve floater

Where did you get the 21-10 prop? Maker. thanks. I`m will try a Zoar 22-8 prop. 50cc. 22-10 may overheat my engine in our southern hot temp.`s here lately. 21-10 sounds worth a try.

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

22x10 reheat my DLE 55, I try a 20X10 MASTER CLASIC ( wich is out of the DLE 55 grafics ) saunds and flys great my p51, what do ya think ?

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone had a problem with the torque link assemblies on there robart air retracts splitting where they contact the metal block on the strut?
I brought my retracts from Tower approx 2 years ago and have just recently finished my Topflite 1/5 giant mustang arf running a dle 55.
After 3 flights i noticed the wheel had extended further into the wheel well when the wheels were retracted and noticed the torque link had cracked where it meets the metal block on strut allowing the wheel to extend out and nearly jam in the wheel well.I then checked the other and a crack was starting to appear.
I have ordered 2 more from robart and contacted their tech people but have not received a reply yet as to whether this a common problem or if they have modified the link assembly.
I too have soft mounted my engine to lesson vibration and are very happy with the plane and are grateful for all the modifications supplied

Any help on this problem would be appreciated.

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

I had the same problem with mine when the retract came out too fast and the cylinder parted.
The ring is pressed in from factory so when it popped out it would not stay in
I put the cylinder together and put 5 or 6 centre punch marks around end where the ring fits in.

Hope this helps.

CRJDriver

My Feedback: (57)

It is unusual for this to happen after such a short time. I have nearly 500 flights on my P-51 and have only had to replace one set of torque links. Very reliable gear.

spitfire66

I was getting ready to order my aerotech models drop tanks last night, when I discovered the company has sold. I was not able to order anything and I called the phone number posted on the website. I talked to previous owner and everything is gone, and he is not sure if the new owners will be offering parts, accessories, or new airplanes. I was really wanting the drop tanks and pylons, and I am kicking myself for not ordering them sooner. Does anybody know where to find these or have any for sale? I was also wanting there wheels, but there are plenty of places to get wheels. I would think the new owners would offer these parts, or else why would you buy a business. If you know any information about this I would sure like to hear it. I thought they made outstanding products.

v6goose

That is terrible news...

spitfire66

Yep, makes me wonder what I was waiting for??? Lesson learned, in the rc world order what you want when you can. It may not be there when you ready to order it. I would sure think the new owner would continue making these and revamp the business, or why else would you buy it? Time will tell...

Bdsbob

My Feedback: (20)

Anyone have a picture of the ARF with Sierra retracts including the scale door arms and the doors supplied with the ARF?

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

I finally received reply from Robart re-cracked and broken torque links on my mustang retracts and was given no possible explanation.
There answer was to send back retracts to them and they will look at them.
I do not want to wait a month for the return of them
I have ordered 2 replacements but are still sceptical that that issue will not happen again
I showed them to an experienced builder at our club and we both agreed that it looks like a weak point however if this happens again I will weld a saddle on the torque link where it contacts the block on the strut.

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

Bdsbob: Got the Sierra retracts, ARF gear doors, but just bent wire for the door arms. Seems to be working OK.

Brian

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

Here is a picture of my cracked torque link on my robart retract.
Has anyone seen this happen before?

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone got a picture for the set up of their choke mechanism for a DLE55 engine on a topflite mustang 1/5 giant arf?
I do not want to add another servo so after a manual linkage system.
At the moment I have a small hole in cowl and insert a thin screw driver to activate choke but this is sometimes difficult to locate hole in choke lever.