MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I am on forth Mustang and on every one of them I have had to trim/grind down the mounts on outside wood beam OR you can slide some washers under the inside retract mount. With the gear UP and locked you should have a little play while it is in the wheel well.

Jyjkoz

My Feedback: (1)

My assembly is going smoothly so far..I just wanted some input on going with one servo for rudder and tail wheel or should I keep it two? Is there any advantages on either? Also has anyone used the CA hinges? Or should I go with pin hinges? And one last question I have is I am using a DA50r I had laying around with a slimline wrap around muffler and I mounted the engine tonight with the hopes that I woulnd have to spend the money for a new muffler or hack up the Cowl....Well I have to do one or the other and I dont want to destroy the cowl so who makes a muffler for the DA50 that will fit in the cowl will not fall apart?
Thanks for all the Help!!!

CRJDriver

My Feedback: (57)

J tec makes a great muffler that will fit completely iniside the cowling. Mine has been trouble free for 6 years and nearly 500 flights!

Vintauri

My Feedback: (25)

I have the Jtec on my DL50 and it's a perfect fit. All you need is to trim the cowl on the bottom for the cylinder head and the two pipes to exit nothing on the side needs to be cut.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a heck of a u-tube video of a real chopper pilot lifting a P-51 model out of the top of a tree....nice
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEYq...e_gdata_player

Leroy Gardner

The J-Tech muffler is the way to go, no cutting sides of cowl as it's made for in cowl install useing DA 50 or DLE 55, fits both, just let them know what engine and plane you have as it's custom made per application. www.j-techrc.com I posted pict's of install way back in thread but will do it again for the new guys, Leroy

Also found some paint that looks pretty good in cockpit, Rust-Oleum moss green at Home Depot. Google P-51 cockpits and you will find many colors used in them, green that is.

flyingp51

I think i finely found you. in reply from my e_mail sorry took me a while to figuer out where you were. any way on the 24 oz tank i need to know the size of the fuel line you used for the filler on the deck nexst to the on off switch large or small and, is it 1 fuel line (gas) one from the engine to tank and 1 from tank to out side of fire wall hanging do youfallow? let me Know still working things out. Jim Thanks Leroy

Leroy Gardner

Hi Jim, did'nt know you were looking for me, I'll see if I can answer your question. Filler is a Sullivan gas filler for a 2 line system. line size is 3/16" yellow gas silicon, same for vent.Fuel pick up line goes to one port on filler and the other side of filler goes to engine. An adaptor for the pump line ( included with filler ) pluges into the filler blocking off line to engine while filling the tank, it prevents flooding engine. For vent line make a loop that will set on top of tank, aluminum 3/16' works well for this as it bends better than brass, connect to tank with fuel line hose and same to line out bottom of chin block. Use brass for that and solder a tab on it to secure to back of fire wall with screw. I can see tank front top when filling and I try not to fill it to overflow and that keeps raw fuel off bottom of plane. On that dump line out of bottom cut a 45 degree angle on the side facing rear so it can't siphon fuel in the air. I hope that is the answer your looking for. Don't forget to fuel proof back of fire wall and the whole tank well.

Cheer's Leroy

I just got your e-mail, will check back here to see if you got this. As a reminded don't forget to get the gas fuel stopper assembly, should have the right size lines with it, you can double check fuel line fit on engine and use the circle clamps on the fittings from tank to engine. You will find that the lines fit the tubeing pretty tight.

Confirm you got this, Leroy

andernamen

My Feedback: (3)

Robinson Helo. Pilot was crazy though getting that close just to retrieve an rc plane. It was cool though.

Bdsbob

My Feedback: (20)

I smacked my beautiful Biela 4 bladed prop on the ground during my first takeoff run! Darn!

Here is a poor quality cell phone video of my P-51 with a ZDZ 80 swinging a XOAR 24X14.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h345yWbj27U

What fun! I could and did this all day long!

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Quick question.
When you glass the elevator and rudder, how do you keep the fabric from sagging since they are not sheeted, while you apply the finishing resin?

Thanks for the help.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Use Iron On Cloth like Coverlite

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

In other words. dont glass the tail feathers. Unless they are metal (full scale) you want fabric.

Valve floater

Well, Mustang back in action. After tossing the SV-50 and installing a DLE-55 it`s running great. Had to replace both main strut tubes, snapped in crash. Fixed busted wing holes on both sides where wheels punched through on dead stick landing. Removed mains and beefed up wing area that had stress cracks. Installing engine was a bear because the firewall location,standoff length and crankcase were all different. Did 4 flights and flies like it`s on rails. She wants to climb a little at times so a little down trim was need. But the down causes my take offs to go nose foward so i have to watch my prop and keep a little up as needed. On take offs, i have to apply a moderate amount of right rudder. Pulls to the left. Engine torque?
All air retracts. Is it normal for the mains when dropping to hit with a good amount of force when hitting the stop point and locking in? Seems like this puts a lot of stress on the robart frame and wing. Wheels up is realistic and slow. Anyone make a stop cushion?

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

If you are using a Robart variable rate air valve you can turn the screw in and slow down the struts when they come down.
Also if that is not sufficient, Robart offers air line restrictors that limit the amount of air going through the air line, thus making the strut move slower.
With the restrictors you have to locate wich line is up and down and of course installing them in the down one.

Hope this help a little.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Valve floater, It's called P-factor. The blast off the prop swirls around the plane, so it hits the left side of the rudder more thus causing you to add right rudder to compensate.

Torque, rolls the plane oppisite of the rotation of the engine.

Hope this helps
Kelly

spitfire66

You will have several factors causing you to use rudder. If you are noticing more rudder in the climb here is why.

P-factor is the angle of the downward swinging blade having a greater angle of attack than the upward swinging blade. It will be exaggerated in the climb. Hold a prop level on the tip of a pencil and notice the angle difference between the two blades when viewed directly from the side. Then keep in mind where the wind will be coming from. Now tilt the pencil up (simulated climb) and compare those blade angles against each other to the relative wind it is about to disturb and notice the blade angle differences now.

spiraling slipstream is the air swirling to provide a force on the rudder

torque from the engine provides equal, but opposite reaction (newton's law). Prop goes to the right when viewed from the cockpit and wants to roll the plane left. Rudder corrects this back to the right (straight)

For those who are interested in the aerodynamics I hope you enjoy. I haven't been active on the forums for awhile and felt the need to post. I have too much going on right now to work on my p-51 and have been missing my hobby.

Valve floater

Thanks guys. That makes sense on the pulling to the left on take off. I have other 50cc planes but i find the mustang to pull to the left more for some reason.
I have the red Robart adjustable valve. I noticed one side the needle is missing. On the side closest to the servo hookup on the plunger. Guessing this is the down adj. I will call Robart tomorrow and see if i can just get the needle. Thanks.

Valve floater

Choke set up. Not done by me. Looks like it took some hard thinking but it works great.

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

As long as it works thats all that matters right? I have mine set up like that on my Wild Hare SU27

Leroy Gardner

Hi Frank, I'll try to help out here. First the mount is a weak spot and should be boxed in front and rear and glassed in, that will strenghten the rails and you can 30 min. epoxy the under side of rails to beef them up also. when you drill the mounting holes don't drill a to small a hole for the #6 screws as that really stresses the maple block and leads to fracture later on. Oops dinner time I'll finish this in a bit.

Another concern with Robart gear is that they are capable of supporting alot heavier plane, up to 35-40 lb's. and it's like having a stiff leg on a 15 lb. plane. I cut 5 full coils off the springs in the strut so they will give when landing instead of damaging the mount from the shock..

I built mine from the kit and it's a little different from the ARF and RTC but not different enough that the gear doors can't be mounted to leg stiff or hinged, depends on what you want it to look like. Here is mine, made from the kit balsa ply ones.

speedbrake

Has anyone installed a sliding canopy? Please share method used.

speedbrake

Leroy Gardner

Hi speedbreak, would like a sliding canopy huh ?. I made mine from the kit bubble and it works and looks great. I'm not sure if you want to do it to a ARF or not but it can be done as you'll need to cut some no matter how you do it. See picts and let me know if you need more info.
It is manual operated and held with 2 small screws.

Jyjkoz

My Feedback: (1)

For the DA 50 Should I get a 22X10 prop? Has anyone used the Xoar WWII props?

Jyjkoz

My Feedback: (1)

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