Darrell B.

The blind nuts are off center for the engin offset. They have built right and down thrust into the firewall. If you use the template in the back of the instruction manual, you can make a really nice piece to mount your engin to. Then just use the marks on it to keep your motor in alignment. Or you can mount directly to the firewall. I don't know how much spacing out from the firewall your motor will need to achieve the 8 1/8 inches to the back of the spinner.

Darrell B.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Joe, are you going to be with Roger again this year at Toledo? In any event I'll "See you there"!. BobH.

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

hello Bob:

Yup, i'll be there. Unfortunately, Roger has had a personal issue come up and will not be able to attend. Which is a drag because he's fun to hang out with. Hope he will be there in 06.

Jack: I thought i had the file on my laptop, but i don't . when i get home thursday, i'll send it on.

i made a template for the DA 50 mounting pattern, with cross-hairs that let you perfectly line up things by laying the template over the cross hairs on the firewall, then use the indicated marks to drill your 4 holes for a perfect fit.

i also did the same thing for the reduction drive, and its fits perfectly in the cowl. its a .pdf file, and i print them on clear mylar film that i get at office depot. easy to do. i'll post it here when i get home unless i can get into my home network...i KNEW i should have left my computer on, darn it!!

cheers

see ya in Toledo!!

Jack Pitre

Thanks guys!! I really appreciate the info!

Hey Joe- I am not a real wiz with the computer so if you send me something use laymen terms ok

thanks

-----------question---does anyone know where I can find a nice "big" F4U corsair arf?[:-]

flyinrain

My Feedback: (25)

Joe I'm ready to install my DA50 on the airplane so when you get a chance please send your template. Thanks

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

no problem guys. im still out of town at more UAV meetings. be home thursday late and will post friday am. thougth i had this file on my laptop, and i don't. and, didnt leave my desktop configured so i can get in there from the road.

don't worry, its an easy thing to use. just print it on clear mylar, and off to drill!!

i hate mounting motors. especially since the cowl fit is such a critical deal.

cheers

see ya all at toledo.

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

JoeEagle, I have purchased the ARC and look forward to your template file. I plan on doing this project next winter. This will give me some time to gather all the components I need. I plan on using a DA-50 with the Keleo exhaust, retracts, etc. and admit I am interested in your gear reduction drive. I took a look at your website and I have a concern (besides the unknown cost of the drive and propeller) based on your photos. It seems to fit quite snug and there isn't much room for air flow. Have you run it with the cowl installed and have you had problems with the engine overheating?

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Hi F4U. yes, it is a tight fit. no, we havent done flight test yet. i feel confident that we can get the proper cooling, but it will most likely involve some type of "baffling". I don't know if Great Planes has a TF cowl that has no cutouts, as there is a whole lot of real estate that is cut out that is not needed (where the direct drive motor has it's cylinderhead for example). i am still planning to fly the drive on my H9 1/3 Scale Cap 232 testbed 1st, to make sure i don't have any other issues to deal with.

also, the small pulley will be a 2 strand one which moves it back a little from the chin airscoop.

the motor will be running at 7800 rpm which based on my other experience, is not a huge load on it from a heating standpoint. finally, as Kelvin and I have been discussing with each other, his exhaust is a pretty effective heat sink and i believe will help draw heat away from the motor when it is in flight.

I have a EagleTreeSystems DFDR with the Seagull telemetry module so i'll be able to look at real time data on heating, 1st with the direct drive motor and Kelvin's exhaust, then with our drive, prop, Kelvin's exhaust. I will post those data points on our website when i get them .

off to another meeting...

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the info Joe. I'll keep an eye out for the real time data on your website.

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

I've completed my TF arf, the marking were changed to a different plane TT from BBD. The plane weighs 21.5 pounds ready to fly less fuel, it balanced on the CG, but I added an ounce of lead at the nose to the cowl because I prefer to start a bit nose heavy.
It was quite cold when we ran the Revolution, so the motor was not tweaked to max power as we where going from a 70 degree building, to outdoors at 0 degrees but the R52 started real nice and runs smooth.

The Kelo scale exhausts worked great, solid unit, no concerns here. [link=http://www.keleo-creations.com/]Kelo web site[/link]
The Robart retract gear fits and works great.
I use a JR 8103 (8 channels) so I had to Y the flaps and rudder & tailwheel.

I also went to a two piece wing for ease of transport.

My complete notes are at [link]http://www.sportrc.com/warbirds.html[/link]
.

More data when the snow melts in 6 weeks or so. cheers - ken
.

.

.

Darrell B.

Very nice pictures! I really like the new markings. How did it taxi in the snow. I don't suppose you have thought about skis

Good Luck when the snow melts.
Darrell B.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Speaking of skis, my uncle has a set of skis for a Mustang. They retract and fit to the lower contour of the wing. Also has a tail ski that also retracts. Was an experiment that didn't go very far but there are pictures of them on an airplane taxiing and they did fly a few times. I would get a picture but they are in a crate stacked up in his hanger. The other set he got is displayed at the Warhawk Museum in Nampa Idaho. That would make a cool sclae option for you Ken. Don

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Hi Guys:

here is that template for mounting the DA 50-R motor on the TF P-51D GS Mustang.

Get some mylar transparency film (3M CG 3460 is what I use) for your ink jet or laserjet printer. Print out the attached on a transparency, cut out the extra film you wont be using (you'll figure out how much to cut to make it lay flat on the firewall) and allign the cross hairs on the firewall with the cross hairs on the transparency. tape it down. on each of the 4 corners, drill a hole (i start out small, like 3/32") which is where the DA will bolt to) and then remove the mylar, enlarge the holes to what ever size you are using and your done.

Before i did any of this, i make a dummy with an old piece of wood i dont care about to make sure i am not screwing something up. so you would then have to print 2 mylars. also, i took a 1/4-20 bolt, screwed it into the existing blind nut (one at a time) and gave it a sharp rap with a hammer, driving out the blind nut. i then took dowel material and epoxied it in the hole where the blind nut was.

BTW, when i mounted the WarbirdPropDrives.com reduction drive on the same firewall, i made a new template, and the alignment on the spinner/cowl was perfect. With the WPD drive, you have to offset the drive since the motor drives a pulley below the bigger pulley that spins the prop. still, easier than holding and hoping that you get a good alignment.

Hope this attachment work. if you don't have an adobe reader, go to adobe.com and download their free reader.

Cheers

Joe

www.warbirdpropdrives.com

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

oh, you might want to put your mouse on the .pdf attachment and right click on it and then save it to your computer. that way you will have it for future use.

cheers

see you in toledo!!

FliteMetal

This is truely amazing...38478 views of this thread. All I can say is TF must be cranking on their ARC P-51's like nothing they've ever had built before. Good looking plane you can literally make scale or fun scale in a matter of days. It would be interesting to know the number of kits purchased. If we asked for a show of buyers this could be a record length thread

Jack Pitre

thanks joe! i'll let you know how it goes.[&:]

WoofDog

I've run into a slight problem with the Robart retractable tail wheel #160LWC. It does not seem to have enough force to push the door open. If I hold the doors open it seems to work fine. If you put any pressure on the tail wheel it will not move. Has anyone else run into this problem?

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

I've noticed that with mine tailwheel too but the plane was upside down on the stand. Is your tailwheel and doors hanging up in flight when you drop the gear.

I have a month or so of winter beforeI can fly the stang, I figure by that time the rubber bands will have lost some of their elasticity by then and I'm hoping should work ok

WoofDog

No. The plane has not been flown yet. I would be afraid to put the gear up right now. It has been tried with the plane upside down and right side up. The tail wheel just does not seem to be able to push anything on the way down. It seems hard to believe that the tail wheel can not push the doors open with a little rubber band on the doors.

FliteMetal

Attach an all thread rod with smallest nylon ball links on both ends to each door. With little to no effort at all, the door will open as the gear travels down. The ball link permits the door to move past half way and slightly tuck back. This has been an easy fix for gear doors for years...however its always been used on the mains. There may be a fulcrum over center issue on the tail wheet that robs it of torque...give the ball links a try.

prop wash

Woofdog,I have the same problem with my Robart tail wheel,when it's upside down,but it always works great right side up and inflight.Tom

WoofDog

Attach an all thread rod with smallest nylon ball links on both ends to each door. With little to no effort at all, the door will open as the gear travels down. The ball link permits the door to move past half way and slightly tuck back. This has been an easy fix for gear doors for years...however its always been used on the mains. There may be a fulcrum over center issue on the tail wheet that robs it of torque...give the ball links a try.



ScaleAero,

Do you have a picture or a link to show a picture of the ball links?

Prop wash,
The tail wheel will go up fine. It will come down if right side up and I shake the tail a little. I just don't want to have to depend on shaking the plane to have the tail gear come down.

FliteMetal

Attach each small ball end to the strut and the door. The sockets screw onto the all thread ends. This provides an adjustable length to fine tune the gear door closure. Ball socket ends rotate through the motion path with next to no resistance.

flyinrain

My Feedback: (25)

I think I get it now. You attach one ball link to the door and the other to the strut on the retractable tail wheel. Remove the rubber bands and let the mechanism actuate the doors

FliteMetal

You got it...