TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
#101
My Feedback: (58)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
g62 will have plenty of power for this plane,plus that extra 20 some odd ounces is not gonna hurt it.besides,with the zenoah,i don't have to cut a big gaping hole in the firewall to clear a carb,and,that zdz 50-60 won't turn any bigger prop than the g62 will.
#103
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
ORIGINAL: splais
I am far enough along to make the first true weighing of the plane. Looks like she will be around 17.8 pounds ready to fly. Very pleasing to discover.
I am far enough along to make the first true weighing of the plane. Looks like she will be around 17.8 pounds ready to fly. Very pleasing to discover.
Did you have to add any nose weight? In an earlier post, a guy mentioned that he will have to add tail weight with the US41, but I know your motor (DA50) is much lighter.
#104
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sun Valley,
CA
Posts: 960
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Hello, this is a response to those that are planning to run the fixed landing gear. I have the WM GS P-51D and my flying buddy has the Hangar 9 1.50 size P-51D. Both planes have a Moki 2.10 spinning an APC 18x12. His was radared at 130mph straight and level and mine comes in slightly behind-125mph.
I've been using the mechanical retracts and have recently had a problem with the two servos that has forced me to lock the retracts down and unplug the servos. This allows me to keep flying the plane until I can afford Robarts, SpringAirs, etc.
Here's my point--We normally fly wide open and in somewhat of a formation. Kinda cool to watch, if I do say so. However, this was the first day that I've had to lock the retracts down, and my buddy had to throttle back to half throttle +/- while I was still wide open to keep us at the same speed. WOW. I did not know that the gear produced that much drag. Still fun to fly but it is definitely slower.........
Will need to get some good retracts soon.
I've been using the mechanical retracts and have recently had a problem with the two servos that has forced me to lock the retracts down and unplug the servos. This allows me to keep flying the plane until I can afford Robarts, SpringAirs, etc.
Here's my point--We normally fly wide open and in somewhat of a formation. Kinda cool to watch, if I do say so. However, this was the first day that I've had to lock the retracts down, and my buddy had to throttle back to half throttle +/- while I was still wide open to keep us at the same speed. WOW. I did not know that the gear produced that much drag. Still fun to fly but it is definitely slower.........
Will need to get some good retracts soon.
#105
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (25)
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
This is the totally complete fuselage interior. I relocated the receiver to below the cockpit. Used the black fiberglass tube they sent by mistake as an antenna tube. Note the Sierra air valve. Much sturdier and easier to adjust than the Robart valve. Note how I attached the quick disconnects for the air system in opposite directions. This allows you to connect the two ends together on the fuselage and wing when not flying to keep dust out of the system. I did make one mistake. I installed the right elevator and tailwheel steering servos backwards, directionwise. Doesn't seem to be a problem. I used two heavy duty MPI combination charge/on-off/indicator switches (have the little power indicator lights on them). I have a complete 12" of clearance between all radio gear and all engine gear. The entire setup came out quite well.
#106
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (25)
Big Caution
CAUTION!
I hate it when you are cruising along on construction and then something happens. I was installing the canopy. I taped it down a couple places and drilled my holes. Well when I pulled the tape up it PULLED ALL THE PAINT OFF THE CANOPY were the tape was! So beware. On examination it looks like a lousy paint job that will start peeling off in no time anyway.
PS: Even more of the paint came off. I tried painting it with Lustrekote Aluminum. Didn't work worth a damn. They need to have brush-on Lustrekote, they don't. Going to take major work, Tried Testors, worked OK, but can't match the color so now the canopy on my beautiful P-51 looks like crap! Has big messed up two inch spot on the side.
Big PS: the canopy install instructions are completely unsatisfactory. By the time you get to the install instructions everything else has been added inside the fuselage. You can't get to the screw holes to reinforce them form the inside. Of the 8 holes I drilled, 3 were to big for the small screws. The canopy should be positioned and the holes drilled before you put anything inside the fuselage. Put some supporting blocks behind the holes, CA reinforce them, and you are set. Then you can take it off and continue with the normal assembly instructions.
I hate it when you are cruising along on construction and then something happens. I was installing the canopy. I taped it down a couple places and drilled my holes. Well when I pulled the tape up it PULLED ALL THE PAINT OFF THE CANOPY were the tape was! So beware. On examination it looks like a lousy paint job that will start peeling off in no time anyway.
PS: Even more of the paint came off. I tried painting it with Lustrekote Aluminum. Didn't work worth a damn. They need to have brush-on Lustrekote, they don't. Going to take major work, Tried Testors, worked OK, but can't match the color so now the canopy on my beautiful P-51 looks like crap! Has big messed up two inch spot on the side.
Big PS: the canopy install instructions are completely unsatisfactory. By the time you get to the install instructions everything else has been added inside the fuselage. You can't get to the screw holes to reinforce them form the inside. Of the 8 holes I drilled, 3 were to big for the small screws. The canopy should be positioned and the holes drilled before you put anything inside the fuselage. Put some supporting blocks behind the holes, CA reinforce them, and you are set. Then you can take it off and continue with the normal assembly instructions.
#107
My Feedback: (1)
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Thanks for the advice on the canopy. I just installed the air tank and all of the servos. Started the engine installation. Did any of you decide to mount the engine directly to the firewall, or are you using the G.P. mount they reccomend. I have one on my Giant TF Corsair and seems to work OK. The G-62 causes a lot of the bottom cowl to be removed. I will cut out for the carb tomorrow, and hope to have the fuel system installed with the throttle servo.
Gett'n closer
Gett'n closer
#109
My Feedback: (193)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Berlin,
WI
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Guys,how can you take a beautiful plane like this and butcher the cowls like that?
ICK.
Anyways, the planes look great,those wheels look exactly like robart scale allum ones,they range in 1/4 " increments 4" to 6" I believe, $90 a pair,sheldons might even be less.
As for the mokis,I know there messy,but you cannot beat the power to weight.
Once a moki is broken in (yes that part is a pain), it is far and away the best engine I have to start.I wish my gassers started so well.
Fill it up, prime ,and hand bounce the spinner backwards to compression,starts first time ,every time.
If you use store bought fuel, it can get pricey,but since moki's run best on no nitro,mix your own,and its a lot cheaper.
Good luch with all those runstangs guys.(little aces high humor)
ICK.
Anyways, the planes look great,those wheels look exactly like robart scale allum ones,they range in 1/4 " increments 4" to 6" I believe, $90 a pair,sheldons might even be less.
As for the mokis,I know there messy,but you cannot beat the power to weight.
Once a moki is broken in (yes that part is a pain), it is far and away the best engine I have to start.I wish my gassers started so well.
Fill it up, prime ,and hand bounce the spinner backwards to compression,starts first time ,every time.
If you use store bought fuel, it can get pricey,but since moki's run best on no nitro,mix your own,and its a lot cheaper.
Good luch with all those runstangs guys.(little aces high humor)
#110
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
if the 615s arnt gonna be strong enough for the flaps, what is ? 645s ?
are 615s ok for alerions ?
those flaps must do a hell of a lot then. im not personaly big on flaps. i dont use them to land any of my other planes. but i thought i might try it with this bird. i cant belive there gonna be that much of a problem.
are 615s ok for alerions ?
those flaps must do a hell of a lot then. im not personaly big on flaps. i dont use them to land any of my other planes. but i thought i might try it with this bird. i cant belive there gonna be that much of a problem.
#111
My Feedback: (1)
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
There is not a problem, they just need strong servos to hold the flaps down. The 615's will work fine on the ailerons. The ailerons need at least 80-90 oz. and the elevators should have between 90-120 oz. each. The rudder is the same. This depends on what you are going to do with the model. If you are going to fly it like you were in the aircraft, that means no nine G turns or pull ups etc. You should have no problems. Also if you don't use flaps on landing expect the plane to float forever in ground efect. The barn doors will really slow her down and shorten the landing roll. Just my experence with mustangs. Hope it helps.
#112
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Seguin,
TX
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Canopy attachment
Splais, You might want to try gluing the canopy on after you get the paint fixed. Canopies attached with screws generally dont last. The screw hole is a great place for a crack to start. I glue all of my canopies on with RC56 canopy glue. It dries clear and sticks great to monokote. Best part is, if you ever have to remove the canopy, use an old apc prop and slip it in the glue joint, pry it off all the way around and you will be able to re-use the canopy again. The old glue will peel off the original canopy. I did this on my world models P-51 MA and it worked great.
Evan Q.
Splais, You might want to try gluing the canopy on after you get the paint fixed. Canopies attached with screws generally dont last. The screw hole is a great place for a crack to start. I glue all of my canopies on with RC56 canopy glue. It dries clear and sticks great to monokote. Best part is, if you ever have to remove the canopy, use an old apc prop and slip it in the glue joint, pry it off all the way around and you will be able to re-use the canopy again. The old glue will peel off the original canopy. I did this on my world models P-51 MA and it worked great.
Evan Q.
#115
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (25)
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
I'm down to installing a few of the last pieces. Hit a small snag with the front lower wing fairing. The small black/white checkered front fairing. It doesn't fit worth a damn. When it sits on the wing the front section of it does not line up with the fuselage. it is about 1/4" low. Could someone comment on how they trimmed and installed this piece. thanks.
#116
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Guys do you think that a moki 2.1 would be enough for this bird and would it fit in the cowl if you were to mount it inverted ?
#117
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Canton,
MI
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
I read a review of this engine I believe by Clarence Lee in RCM mag.
He had nothing but positive comments.
It does take a long breakin.
It Has great torque.
Posted 5HP @ approx 10,000 RPM in the test, running at 8000 to 8800 RPM got 4.5 to 4.75 HP
Could swing a big prop.
This engine is used by many @ scale competition .
I purchased one for the TF Giant scale KIT and expect it to perform like a G-62 (less weight).
My fitting has it close to mounting in the cowl without chopping it up. The G-62 requires a lot of cutting.
I did plan on using my DA-50, but after inspection I believe I can fit the Moki 2.10 in the cowl with less cutting. So I still believe I'll try the Moki. (This winters project to "finish" ... it is built and needs covering or paint)
I will be using the circular back plate for mounting and a Pitts Style muffler designed for inverted operation.
The dimension of the engine are available from Moki distributors on-line. See what YOU think, and keep us all posted.
He had nothing but positive comments.
It does take a long breakin.
It Has great torque.
Posted 5HP @ approx 10,000 RPM in the test, running at 8000 to 8800 RPM got 4.5 to 4.75 HP
Could swing a big prop.
This engine is used by many @ scale competition .
I purchased one for the TF Giant scale KIT and expect it to perform like a G-62 (less weight).
My fitting has it close to mounting in the cowl without chopping it up. The G-62 requires a lot of cutting.
I did plan on using my DA-50, but after inspection I believe I can fit the Moki 2.10 in the cowl with less cutting. So I still believe I'll try the Moki. (This winters project to "finish" ... it is built and needs covering or paint)
I will be using the circular back plate for mounting and a Pitts Style muffler designed for inverted operation.
The dimension of the engine are available from Moki distributors on-line. See what YOU think, and keep us all posted.
#118
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sun Valley,
CA
Posts: 960
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
The Moki 2.10 is a fantastic engine!!!! It runs on 0%-5% nitro so the cost is relatively cheap(for glow fuel). They recommend a 20x10 prop for break in but I had good luck with an APC 18x12prop which is what I wanted to end up with anyway. The engine starts well and has been trouble free so far........
#120
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
i was trying to oringally go with a smaller servo, but now ive gone with more torq, ive opted to put 645 mgs on the flaps of this big bird, untill someone else tells me thats just not enough eather.
i plan on running a 6V setup for a few more oz of torq all the way around, im gonna order a nice battery pack for it, with the highest MAH i can find.
what have you guys used for your flaps on this big bird? i dont want to drain my battery coming in for a landing, i know putting putting to much strain on the battery can bring it down below voltage and cut it out completely, i dont need that.
i plan on running a 6V setup for a few more oz of torq all the way around, im gonna order a nice battery pack for it, with the highest MAH i can find.
what have you guys used for your flaps on this big bird? i dont want to drain my battery coming in for a landing, i know putting putting to much strain on the battery can bring it down below voltage and cut it out completely, i dont need that.
#121
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Dave does the MOki fit in the cowl or did you have to chop it up. Did you mount it inverted and if so do you have flooding problems?
#123
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
I am in the middle of mine.. I built the kit version a couple of years ago and I cant say how nice it is to have this in the ARF version.. I do not have a lot of time for building and I am somewhat impatient lol.. anyways this plane is going together nicely..
Question the plans usee those CA hinges for the elevators and the rudder... I am not comfortable doing this... any thoughts? did you use the CA hinges?
thanks
Question the plans usee those CA hinges for the elevators and the rudder... I am not comfortable doing this... any thoughts? did you use the CA hinges?
thanks
#124
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Canton,
MI
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Brylee
You may already know the following, but I'll give you my thoughts:
I have run most of my engines inverted. Engine flooding will happen while sitting on the ground, and not running, if the carb is a lot lower than the tank (siphon action). A well thought out fuel system ( or pinching the line) will solve this problem.
Lately I have been running an on-board glo driver to help the idle while inverted. Good insurance when I pull back the throttle. Plus, I don't need to hook-up a glo driver for starting (I like that).
You may already know the following, but I'll give you my thoughts:
I have run most of my engines inverted. Engine flooding will happen while sitting on the ground, and not running, if the carb is a lot lower than the tank (siphon action). A well thought out fuel system ( or pinching the line) will solve this problem.
Lately I have been running an on-board glo driver to help the idle while inverted. Good insurance when I pull back the throttle. Plus, I don't need to hook-up a glo driver for starting (I like that).
#125
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Orosi,
CA
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly Thread
Alan, make things easy on yourself and use the CA hinges. I happen to use Sig Easy Hinges instead of cutting out the supplied hinges, just because I had them. There are four hinges per surface. You should have no problem. I have had CA hinges on 1/4 scale aerobats for three years now with no problems. Just follow the instructions for installing them and you will be fine.