frisconick

I didn't find it to be overly loud. You knew the engine was running !! We never measured the dB, but everyone thought it sounded pretty cool.

Nick

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Hi...
Building question ...

I have Robart retracts in my TF GS P-51 ARF mains and tailgear, what size of Robart Deluxe Air Control Kit should I buy, the one with standard tank size , or the large one ?

Thanks for all reponding...

AirWizard

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I used the large one

nchrome

Hay guys I found the color scheme that I'm going to do for my GS P-51 Glamoros Glen III which was flown by none other that Chuck Yeager. This plane is done in a dove gray with black and white stripes on the bottom of the wings and a red rudder. I think this will be quite an eye chatcher.

iflyf4u1a

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I also used the large air tank from Robart.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

I believe the original Glamorous Glenn III was done in overall natural aluminum, not dove gray.

nchrome

Sorry but go to P-51 mustang suvivor, N40345-serial# 4463889. It resides down in Texas. And it is now gray with black and white stripes on the bottom of the wing.

luckyy

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How does the ZDZ 80 fit for TF mustang?

AirWizard

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If you don't put the cowl on it will fit fine!!!!!

johnybgood

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The ZDZ80 with rear cab is the perfect motor for the P51 You just need to make a custom muffle. Been flying one this way for years.

AirWizard

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How about a picture of the ZDZ80 in the P-51

gary9648

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Ok here goes gentlemen. I have built seven of these Top Flight Mustangs and one of them is mine that I converted to a C model, glassed and painted. I think they are wonderful flying models and really enjoy flying mine with one exception. That being the weak landing gear mounts. I know quit a few who have experenced landing gear failure even with out what you would call a bad landing. I feel any model should be able to with stand some punishment. Where is this going right? Well one of my customers has had a lot of problems in this area and the last wing problem he decided to disasemble the wing and find out what is going on. By the way, this gentleman has been designing and flying his own planes for many years and competes in many scale contests. He can fly and build very well. He told me that the spar web shear wood is from 1/8" balsa and that the grain of the rear shear(all one piece from root to tip) has the grain running span wise instead being vertical like it's suppose to. This allows the shear to split on any flexure of the wing and then the next landing you will have a failure in the retract bay area. I personally have now experience this with my plane. What follows is how I fixed it. My friend repaired his this way and has flown it many times with some not to perfect landings on purpose to see how it holds up. No more problems. This is why I decided to repair mine in the same fashion. Also Top flight has now been advised of what we found as well. I hope they make the changes to the new kits. I also have the plans and instruction manual for the build up kit. It reccomends balsa shear webbing also, but with the grain vertical as it should be. I strongly believe that the area between the joiner box(ARF) to the wing bay out from the retract mount should be made from 1/8" aircraft ply in back and 1/8" light ply in front. We also noted that the ribs and spars were not glued together in the normal since. It looks like the wing is first jigged up and assembled, then hot melt glue is applied to the joint.
See next pannel for start of fix.
Good Day
Gary Webb

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

On the left side I had head a cracking sound during my last landing. The plane bounced about 6" on landing and then rolled out. I found the top of the left wing cracked along the wing spar area and also the bottom broken. The right side was undamaged I thought. Upon opening the left side first, (see photo) I found the top spar to be broken digaonally in the first bay out from the joiner box. The balsa shear web had split and let the wing twist causing the spar failure. This also allows the bottom sheeting to fail out board of the wheel opening. I removed all the shear webbing front and back in the three bays you see in photo one. I then made a template for the rear spar shear webbing as can be seen. I then made individual templates for the front of the spar. I then cut out the rear shear webbing plate from 1/8th inch (seven layer aircraft ply) ply. I glued the broken top spar back together then capped it with a piece of 1/8th inch ply. I also installed gussets between the top and bottom spar in that bay only before gluing in the shear web pieces. I used 30 min. epoxy. I also noted that the spars were not glued to the ribs very well just as in the case of my friends plane. Photos 1-4 shows this process. Next if you would observe that all the ribs are butt glued to the leading edge. Any twisting action will cause a joint failure very easily with this method. This also will alow the bottom sheeting to crack in this area. The next photos show how I made ply wedges to the leading edge and rib to spread out the load and make a stronger joint in this area. I used a large Robart cut off wheel in a dremel tool to cut a slot in the leading edge back to the front of the rib. I then used the cut off wheel as a template to make the ply wedge. I squared it off in back to fit the entire width of the rib. I then glued these in place with 30 min epoxy. I also had a cracked top skin to deal with on this side. I did not want to resheet the top so I used .75 oz. glass cloth on the bottom of the skin inside the wing to repair it. I then filled the top and sanded smoothed and then reglassed the top area .
I then sanded the top of the spar shear web junction flat and then added 3/32" 1/2" rails around the skin opening for the new skin to attach to. I then created a skin template and made a new skin for that area. I then glued it in place using Thick Zap Ca. I then taped the area off, and then sanded the skin flush. Filled the cracks with filler , resanded , then glassed over the new skin using .75 oz. cloth and Zap finishing rein cut 50% with denatured alcohol. Whew! now that side is finished and ready for paint.
Good Day
Gary Webb

gary9648

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Well now, after repairing the left wing panel I started to think the right side was not damaged so I would just leave it alone. Then I got to thinking, if the shear webbing is the same on this side it would be just a matter of time before it failed. I would rather repair a small area on the bottom then go through what I did on the left side. So I decided to remove the skin in the spar area and have a look. the first photo is of the skin cut out but not yet removed. Look at the difference in skin that needs to be removed vs the left wing due to no outward damage. In the next few photos you will see that the shear webbing in front is of balsa with vertical grain due to them being seperate pieces. The rear shear webbing again has its grain aligned span wise and offers no structual strenth in the torsional mode. Also notice that one panel has already cracked in the rear and the wing was just waiting to fail on the next bumpy landing. The next photo shows all the shear webbing has been removed. The next couple of photos show the webbing (front and rear) being glued in place. I then sanded the webbing level with the spar and added the 3/32 rails for the new skin to sit on. I also added some tri-stock gussets between the ribs and the shear webbing just for strength.I then make a template for the new skin and glued it in place, filled, sanded and reglassed the new skin. Notice this took a lot less time than the other side. I also added the rib wedges between the front of the ribs and the leading edge as the other side. Now all is needed is a little primer and paint and she will be as good as new. I look forward to flying this aircraft for many years to come with out the worry now of damaging the wing on a not so perfect landing. I know nothing will keep from causing the gear to be torn out if I really dork it. As I said before, I in no means, mean to knock this model, but with this improvement, people flying off ruff grass fields will have better success with this aircraft.
Good Day
Gary Webb

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Gary you are amazing.....thanks for that perfect repair demostration.
I bought my TF GS P-51 2 weeks ago from Tower Hobby.
Do you think my version is still flawed?
How would you check to see if it is still defective? Just by looking in the retract bay area at the shear webbing balsa pieces?
Thanks again for all the help ....Fabio

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Fabio, without opening the wing it would be hard to tell. The front web shear that you would see through the retract mount should be individual vertical grained balsa pieces. I also have coated this area with resin, but that will not help to strenthen the structure. Only way for sure is to contact Tower to see if they have made changes to the wing I would guess. If it were me I would make the changes to the wing if you are flying off grass for sure to increase the life span of the wing if it has not been changed. It looks like that who ever made the desision in my opinion to make the rear shear web out of one piece to interlock with the spars did not know in which direction the grain should run for the shear web. Structuraly I think it was a great idea if they just used ply instead of Balsa with the grain running the wrong way.
Gary

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Good job Gary.[img][/img] Since I was removing the fiberglass wheel wells,I went in through the top wing sheeting. Only because I could'nt get one of the wells out without cracking the top wing skin.

Gunny

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Building question.
To mount the retract covers, is the hardwood block a good mounting solution as instructed in the manual?
I am not sure that using only the glue to secure them to the struts is sufficient .

I would like to hear your comments.
Thanks ...Fabio

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

I have a small screw through the retract cover into each block (4 screws total for this portion). I used a thin metal strip in the shape of a U to hold each hardwood block to the strut (4 metal strips and 8 screws total). Also I used JB weld rather than 30 minute epoxy. Seems like the screws are #2 x 3/16 or 1/4" brass.

Here is the sequence I used to put things together. Wait for glue/JB weld to set before moving from one step to another.
1. Pick and mark on the strut the location for each hardwood block. Shape it so the retract cover fits the wing. The lower block did not take much shaping. Seems like about a third of the upper block needs to be removed.
2. Tape the blocks to the strut. drill a hole through the retract cover into each block. Screw the cover to the blocks.
3. JB Weld the block to the strut. Hold them in place with tape across the cover like as shown in the instructions.
4. Remove the retact covers. Harden the screw holes with CA.
5. Loop the metal U strips around the strut. Drill a small screw hole through the metal into the block on each side of each block.
6. JB weld the metal strips the the strut and block. Install the screws through the metal into the block at the same time.
7. JB weld the retact cover to the block. Install the screw through the cover into the block.

This should keep the covers on.

Brian

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

That is exactly the same way I have been attaching them to the strut. Just gluing the block to the strut will last a couple of flights then break off. By the way Gunny, great job on the inner doors. Gary

gunny11

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Thanks, Nice set of wheels Gary.

gary9648

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I like your fold down landing light. I installed one on my Fiberclassics Mustang. The wheels are from Aerotech. When I bought them they were $95.00 a pair. Now they are $135.00 a pair. You can get them from Sierra now for less. Darryll is now making them also.

K.O.

My Feedback: (16)

Where did you get your landing light?

K.O.

Doomking

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Hi Gary

"You can get them from Sierra now for less. Darryll is now making them also. "

Do you have the link for those two web sites so that I can go there and check them out?
Thanks for the help....Fabio

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

http://aerotechmodels.com/
http://www.sierragiant.com/products.html There you go sir.