Q8Nitro

hi guys, i'm interested in a 4 bladed prop, if i'm going with a 3MM 53 engine, what prop size will be good?? same as Nickevenzia's 20*8 ?? and if yes, i need a tractor one right??

thanks

Ali

Michel

Hi
I have been working on the cock-pit . I know that you true scale guys will have a lot to comment on here . This is my first attemp at a cock-pit . I can admite one thing and that is , work on one thing at a time and take it from there . There is still a lot to do as to say switchs , levers . a few more dials , the pilots harness , the center stick , I am even thought of putting some wires at the rear were I think are batterys .

Michel

Airnondas

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Mike.

Here is a small clip to go with your picutre, that shows the demise of my Top Flite Mustang.

After the low pass, I started to go vertical and that is when I found myself under the P-40.

My rudder fin took off the P-40's left wing.

Both planes back in kit form.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hHT7CyYivk

__________________________

Airnondas

v6goose

[X(]

[:@]

[&o]

spitfire mk.xiv

Hi, Mustang fans. The TF GS Mustang is a great flyer. Is there someone who has some experiens the flying chartics between the TF 1/5 and Compositt Arf 1/4?
My next Mustang have to be the big one......
Here is some pics from a geat formation flight we have at the Gathering of WW2007 at Trondheim in Norway. The pilots are the local Scalewarbirds of Norway and Fighteraces from England.
Feel free to look at www.scalewarbird.org

v6goose

You're on the exact same path as me John...

Good pix!

Goose

Art G.

My Feedback: (10)

Balanced my P51 3/8 inch forward than the manual said. This is the best flying warbird I have ever flown. It grooves.

Michel

Hi

I was wonderig if some of you guys could give me some info here . I installed my control rods for the elevetors and found them very stiff . I know that there was a post on this and I have tried to find it , but was unsuccesful . Have any of you guys experienced this and , if so , what is the best solution . I must admit , this truely does bother me . Should I leave it , as is , or should I work on a modification .

Thanks

Michel

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

I have both, TF Mustang and the Fiberclassics Mustang. Not to mention a Nosen Mustang. Just remember this. The BIGGER they are the easier they are to fly!
Gary

Fighterpilot

My Feedback: (2)

Michel, you have two sources of stiffness in your elevator movement.. the first thing to check is the elevator hinges themselves. If you used the CA hinges they can sometimes be very stiff if excessive CA gets in the joint or if the joint is tight and there is not enough relief on the leading edge of the elevator to allow for the up and down movement.
The other source of stiffness would be if your control rods are not straight and have an excessive bend in them. This bending of the outer rod will cause the inner rod to rub on the sides of the outer rod with the friction causing you the stiff feeling in your elevator movement. I usually cross my elevator control rods inside the fuselage in order to make the line from the servo contol arm to the elevator control horn as straight as possible. You really have to plan out your elevator servo locations in your servo tray to have as straight a line as possible from servo control arm to elevator control horn.
One thing you do not want to do is secure your outer control rod too closely to your servo. The swing motion of your servo arm will bind at full deflection either up or down if you don't allow room between the servo arm and the secured outer control rod for this lateral movement. I usually leave a minimum of about 3.5 tp 4 inches.
I hope this helps..

eugene

Another place for binding, is in the preinstalled outer tubes....a small kink where it passes thru the formers will cause the inner rod to bind and rub....I have used a small piece of sandpaper on the end of the inner rod and chucked it in my portable drill, passing it thru the binding area... When kit building, crossing the rods works out much better...

Michel

Hi Fighter Pilot
Thank You for youre reply.... This is an ARF and I have only put the rods in the tubes , I have not installed the elevators as of yet . And yes the tubes are bent inside the fuselage . They are very poorly installed .My simple question have any other kit been recieved in this condition > and what is the solution ? will I have to rebuild ? I do know that if I leave it like this , its not a good idea .

Michel

Michel

Hi Eugene
Thanks for youre reply .

I found that the rods worked well most of the length of the tube , but when it came to the excite , there is a bend that I can see through the tail-retract bay . As I can see it , I will have to remove the last part of the tube and align it properly , both tubes . But first I must check where the horns attach to the elevaters , so that I can evaluate where they line up , or is there another solution ?

Thanks

Michel

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

I had this problem too, What I did was to arc or bend the rod were nessesary to relieve the binding.

Gunny

Michel

Hi Gunny
Thanks for youre reply .
Well what I am going to do is remove the tubes and align them as they are suppose to be .......... free-movement . I find that even bending the rods at the point of binding will only bandaid the problem . I would sure like to know the guy that built my ARF , bet you any money he does not fly RC

Michel

frisconick

My solution was much simpler; maybe a bit wimpy, but has worked fine for many flights now. I threw away the 4-40 control rods and used 2-56. They were just flexible enough to not bind on the "hidden bends" in the outer tubes, yet stiff enough to give good control response. Just ask Art G how it flies !!

Nick

spitfire mk.xiv

Thanks gary9648, I live in Norway and we have some noise restrictions at our airfield. Can you tell me which engine and exhaust you use in the C.Arf.
The TF Mustang got a DA50 and a Bisson muffler, but I think I loose some power. DA50 with Meizlic 22/10 gives me aprox 6000rpm static. and Biela 22/10 5600 rpm.
But it works, I got plenty power for the Mustang.

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Michel,
First, DO NOT USE CA hinges on the elevator or rudder. They will break at the horn location first then work there way out to the tip if you continue flying it. Use Dubro large pinned hinges for these control surfaces. I built 5 of these things and had to go back and replace all of them including mine. All had 50cc gas engine in them.
The CA hinge material included in the kit will just not hold up. You can not use Robart hinges due to the mfg. not installing enough wood on the trailing edge wood or leading edge of the control surfaces for that type of hinge. Everyone else I know that used the supplied CA hinge material had simular results.

Spitfire,
I installed a First Place 5.8 cu. in. (98cc) gas engine in mine with a custom muffler made by Bold Mufflers. Karl did an excellent job. His number is 772-344-8785 in ST. Lucy, Florida USA.
You can see the install on the Fiberclassics Mustang now Comp ARF thread. I built two of them and showed two types of engine installs and control surface hook ups. One of the aircraft has a 3W 85cc rear intake. I built both motor mounts from stratch.
Gary

Michel

Hi
Sorry about the ranting on TopFlite , but , I feel that this is an ARF and I should not have to worry about thing like this , thats why I bough an ARF.............. ranting over.

The problem with the elevator push rods has been solved . First , I removed the tubes , it was not difficult at al they were not glued very well at all . Than I took a file to sharpen a chain saw blade and aligned the holes in former #9 and the slote on the side of the fuseloge and everything came out fine . I replaced the tubeing . Now they work as smooth as butter Now on to better things .

I did some work on the tail retract doors . I glued the hings to the doors with very little epoxy, 30 minute , just enough to hold the hinges .
Than about an hour later , I covered them with a small piece of fiberglass .

Gary ............ Thank for the heads up on the hinges . Funny , I was reading about that in youre post #1320 page 53. I will be changing the Ca hinges , you can be sure of that , thanks again .

Michel

eugene

You got it, Mike.....sometimes we tend to overengineer when the solutions are simple.....I too used the DuBro pinned hinges...they fit pretty well into the factory slots.. They can be reinforced with a round toothpick if you prefer, and which can be easily covered when finishing... I also covered the Elevators and rudder with iron on fabric to give the scale look and also keep it light, then painted to match...

Flyfast1

My Feedback: (1)

Michel,

I had the same problem with the elevator pushrod tubes and discovered that all the friction was occurring in the tubes near the exits and the portions inside the tail retract area. The tubes were bowed in this area which cause the rod to rub against the insides of the tubes. I did what you didremoved the tubes, fixed the holes for the tubes, and then reinstalled them. I have heard of others with the same issue, so it is a manufacturing issue.

I think you'll like this planeit's a great flyer!

-Ed B.

Michel

Hi Ed

The solution I did worked great , the file of a chain saw worked great . The rods are very , very free , they slide as if they were not even in the airplane , the way it should be . TopFlite did not even want to hear of Gary Makers modification of the wing . Saying that there R and D team has a load of experience , and that they have tested these P-51, considerably , which we modelers know is : DONKEY DEW

Here is what TopFlite had to say about the wing modifications :

The Topflite P51 Giant ARF has been extensively test flown by our R&D team,
and we didn't feel any need to modify the landing gear mount areas. As I'm
sure you're well aware, our product developers have deigned, built and flown
many P51s, and have a lot of experience in building wings that are light,
yet sufficiently reinforced in critical areas ( Horse Droppings )

Thanks for sharing Ed

Michel

frisconick

Correction to my "simple solution". I replaced the 4-40 rods with 2-56 on my Hangar 9 P-51 (150 size; 7 or 8 pounds lighter), not the TF Mustang. On the TF, it only took cleaning up the exit holes to free up the 4-40 pushrod travel. Sorry 'bout that.

Nick

Michel

Hi Nick

That does not matter , it is still a solution to be made an option [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif] I thought about it but passed

Michel

Michel

Hi
I finished installing the doors , there Ok , but I think that they could of been better . I went out to a small engine repair shop , and bought some governer springs for the doors , and the tail wheel . I no not like the thought of putting elastics , to keep the doors closed .

I a;so put to-gether the doublers for the air tank , servo trays . I also put a brace under the gas tank floor . I found that when held in place with the elastics , the floor bowed , a small piece of 1/4inch plywood , the lwidth of the floor tool care of the problem .