spitfire66

I managed to get my wing glued together yesterday. Everything went well. Today I working on getting the wing mated to the fuselage perfectly before I glue in the dowel rods. I had to take a little out of the pre-drilled holes in the wing to get the rods set right, but I have it so the wing sits tightly in the cradle. I have a small gap between the front of the wings and the fuselage. I am thinking about using 1/32 balsa sheeting and/or a small sliver or 1/16 sheeting to eliminate the gap completely. The right wing needs 1/32, the left about a 1/16 to completely fill the gap. Picture 5 is 1/16 balsa. The wings joined with each other perfectly except at the front, where there is a small rise between panels that you have to feel for. I don't think I want to keep the minor gap in the front. Would you experienced guys fill the gap with balsa?

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Had similar problem at the front with smaller gap.
I added a thin piece of ply to the front of the wing to eliminate the gap. I left a 1/16" gap for little play.

Fabio

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Don't forget you have covering to be placed in their yet. That will take up some room.
You will want a little space in there placing the wing on the fuselage. I always tilt the back of the wing up for a last look at my airlines/wires before bolting down.

spitfire66

You will want a little space in there placing the wing on the fuselage. I always tilt the back of the wing up for a last look at my airlines/wires before bolting down.

Mx240,

That's good advice and something I didn't think of. With fabio leaving a 1/16" gap, that makes me think I'm good to go as I didn't have to add anything to reduce the gap. Thanks guys.

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

I went to fly my P51 Mustang yesterday and after doing all the checks etc found my right Robart main wound not come down without first pushing it up in wheel well to let the locking mechanism release, air operated.
I had this issue about 5 flights back and shaved off some of the wood where the retract sits to give some clearance in the well when it was retracted into the wing.
It now appears that both retracts have lost there clearance when retracted and I will have to remove some more to create some clearance
Has anyone had to to do this more than once as I think I read something about this problem further back in the threads.

Thanks
Fireynz

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, rub it in that your weather is good enough to fly while most of us here in the states have the worst winter ever.

All four of the TF Mustangs I have put together I have had to take my Dremel tool and shave off one side of the wood mountings to get my air retracts to lock in the up position.
I have only needed to do it once at the start though. Something I wish TF to change a little. I have been to fun flys where I see other peoples TF Mustang wheels drop down on loops because of this. Maybe over the years the Robart plastic locks have changed a little???
I put a TopFlite FW 190 together and everything is perfect on that new plane.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

PS...
I have found when the wheels are "up" in the locked position you need to be able to turn the wheel while in the well.
Maybe not "spin" but at least be able turn it.
Jim

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

The easiest fix is to shim the inside gear mount rail or you can remove a little bit of wood from the outside rail. What you need to do is adjust the angle that the gear sit in the wing. Mine needed a 1/16" shim before the tire would rotate freely when gear are retracted. I use Sierra gear so if you're using Robart's, shim amounts may be a little different. Best to use an aluminum plate cut and drilled to fit. Simple!

spitfire66

Is this how you all reinforce your firewall? I'm new at this but thought i'd give it a try. I'm planning on using 30 min epoxy first going into all the joints, then the surfaces and then laying the fiberglass over the top. Then going through and brushing on (or removing) excess epoxy.

Ralph White

spitfire66, I don't run the fiberglass cloth clear across the back of the firewall. I go onto the firewall back only about 3/4 - 1 inch. Your just adding unnecessary weight going across the back of the firewall as far as I'm concerned. It's correct to run the cloth back onto the balsa at least 1 1/2 inches. I use 5-minute epoxy as I do small pieces of cloth. You might want to use 30-minute at first to learn how the cloth works. 5-minute epoxy does not give much time for the epoxy to soak into the glass cloth. Also brush in some epoxy on the wood before laying the cloth in so the epoxy can soak into cloth faster. I use 4 or 6 oz cloth.
Ralph White

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

This worked for me too on my P51 and P47

spitfire66

Thanks Ralph, that is how I'll do it.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

A question for all of you folks out there.
Did any of you mounted the air scoop so it is removable to attach the wing?
If you did, how did you go about it? couple of pictures perhaps?
Thanks all for the help....

Fabio

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

The four 51's I have put together I epoxyed the scoop to the wings......but I have cut out the back part to get to the wing bolts if I ever have to.
Makes a good hand hold also if you leave a half inch lip.

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

Go to home depot and buy a tube of household GOOP. It is great for what you are doing plus it is great for canopy's . It stays flexible but you cannot pull off the object you glued , but if you lit one end with an Xacto you can peal the object off , if you get to much on you can let it dry and rub your fingers back and forth and clean up any over smear.

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

I used epoxy as per manual and drilled holes in the air scoop so I can use a screwdriver to mount wing to fuse.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Excellent idea......I will try that for sure....
thanks!

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

Someone earlier in this thread has a picture of his removeable air scoop. I found the picture but not the actual post.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I used canopy glue

mihelone

I have just fixed it by the manual, so epoxied it on the wing...No problems so far...

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Hello
I need help from those of you that installed a Dle 55 with this bird.
First the engine needs to be 7" 7/8 from firewall to back of the spinner. I need to come up with 1" 3/16 spacers to add to the standoff to have the proper distance......any suggestions how to do that?
Also how did you route the throttle and choke since the tank is right behind the firewall in line with the carb?
thanks for all the help and pictures are greatly appreciated.


Fabio

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

Hey Fabio I made wooden spacers on mine. Which kind of act like anti vibration mounts. As for the throttle I used flex cable so it could be routed around the fuel tank and still work perfect. Same with my choke because I had it on a servo.

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Fabio I made a plywood mount that the engine bolted to and then the mount bolted to the firewall.

The throttle cable I used was a sullivan flexible plastic rod that curved around fuel tank.

For choke I bolted a ball link to choke lever and put a small hole in the side of the cowl after which I use a piece of brass tube to activate choke lever on and off.

fireynz

My Feedback: (2)

Her are some pics of my DLE 55 engine mount
The red pieces on the end of the standoffs are nolethene bushes to isolate motor from vibration

mikmerl

Fabio
Make your own engine standoff’s.

I have a lathe in my shop and frequently make these components for my use and for friends.

A local metal engineering shop should be able to turn a set for you to the desired length in minutes.

I usually drill them all the way through and use long M5 bolts with blind nuts behind the firewall.

As for the throttle linkage I make extensions from carbon fiber (and a similar one for the servo). This setup works perfectly and has given hours of service on numerous models.to actuate.

The choke requires a short push rod out from the cowl

mike