TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
05-16-2014, 04:42 PM
#3203
Heating issues....Place a tin dam on the engine stand-offs to stop overheating the carburetor and causing the engine to go lean.. Zip tied through punched holes.
I do have a small "slot" in the top of my cowl (in the black square) to feed cool air down to the carb. Not sure I need it though as I have flown others without it.
I do have a small "slot" in the top of my cowl (in the black square) to feed cool air down to the carb. Not sure I need it though as I have flown others without it.
05-22-2014, 05:46 PM
#3204
Can some of you that have this aircraft please list your servo setup. I am looking at all hitec digital 5685hv servos. They are cheaper than the 5645 at 42/servo vs $47. I bought a couple 645 at $32 but I'm not sure which way to go after some reading about digital vs analog. I am convinced I need the full torque provided by digital servos throughout the servo arm range on the flaps, and elevator, but how about the rest of the aircraft? The more I read the more I am convinced to spend more on digital. I welcome your advice
05-22-2014, 06:53 PM
#3205
Spitfire I wouldn't go to crazy on the servos.
I had two in the past and one p-51 right now.
they all flew great with any servo with 100 oz of torque. My set ups were Jr 821 everywhere and hitec 645 for the flaps.
currently my last one is flying with hitec 645 on all surfaces and probably I would upgrade to 5645 for the flaps which are such a big barn doors.
the rest of the flying surfaces are pretty small compared to your run of the mill aerobatic 3D plane which it require such high voltage servos.
Not the case here, pretty much anything will fly it great. No paranoaia or what if needed!
my opinion ....that's all.
fabio
I had two in the past and one p-51 right now.
they all flew great with any servo with 100 oz of torque. My set ups were Jr 821 everywhere and hitec 645 for the flaps.
currently my last one is flying with hitec 645 on all surfaces and probably I would upgrade to 5645 for the flaps which are such a big barn doors.
the rest of the flying surfaces are pretty small compared to your run of the mill aerobatic 3D plane which it require such high voltage servos.
Not the case here, pretty much anything will fly it great. No paranoaia or what if needed!
my opinion ....that's all.
fabio
05-22-2014, 06:55 PM
#3206
Heating issues....Place a tin dam on the engine stand-offs to stop overheating the carburetor and causing the engine to go lean.. Zip tied through punched holes.
I do have a small "slot" in the top of my cowl (in the black square) to feed cool air down to the carb. Not sure I need it though as I have flown others without it.
I do have a small "slot" in the top of my cowl (in the black square) to feed cool air down to the carb. Not sure I need it though as I have flown others without it.
What engine are you referring to for your overheating issues?
05-22-2014, 07:16 PM
#3207
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Can some of you that have this aircraft please list your servo setup. I am looking at all hitec digital 5685hv servos. They are cheaper than the 5645 at 42/servo vs $47. I bought a couple 645 at $32 but I'm not sure which way to go after some reading about digital vs analog. I am convinced I need the full torque provided by digital servos throughout the servo arm range on the flaps, and elevator, but how about the rest of the aircraft? The more I read the more I am convinced to spend more on digital. I welcome your advice
If you look around and buy in bulk, you can get the for a little as 28.00 each.
06-28-2014, 04:09 PM
#3209
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I am using Futaba 9001 on a 6 volt NIMH as per manual and after many flights servos are still working well.
I was a bit concerned that these have plastic gears but seem ok.
I am running a DLE 55 with JTEC slimline muffler fully in cowl with no overheating problems.
Plane flies great
I was a bit concerned that these have plastic gears but seem ok.
I am running a DLE 55 with JTEC slimline muffler fully in cowl with no overheating problems.
Plane flies great
07-12-2014, 03:49 AM
#3210
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G'day all, managed to get one of these, almost new, set it up as per the manual, CofG a bit forward, DLE 55ra, 20 x 12 prop, 7500rpm, goes like stink, very nice to fly. luv it
Oldtimer
Oldtimer
07-12-2014, 03:54 PM
#3213
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G'day all,
the DLE 55Ra is going like a beauty, no signs of overheating, no air deflectors around the engine, the stock muffler is fine, the 20 x 12 prop is good, not sure what brand it is, but it looks similar to the Xoar, RPM is good at 7500 max, can still slow the model down for landing, so the 12 pitch is OK. but I only have a couple of flights on it so far. I have moved the fuel tank back closer to the C of G, (less trim change during flight) epoxied some ply in around the Undercarriage mounts.
Oldtimer
the DLE 55Ra is going like a beauty, no signs of overheating, no air deflectors around the engine, the stock muffler is fine, the 20 x 12 prop is good, not sure what brand it is, but it looks similar to the Xoar, RPM is good at 7500 max, can still slow the model down for landing, so the 12 pitch is OK. but I only have a couple of flights on it so far. I have moved the fuel tank back closer to the C of G, (less trim change during flight) epoxied some ply in around the Undercarriage mounts.
Oldtimer
07-12-2014, 07:12 PM
#3214
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G'day all,
the DLE 55Ra is going like a beauty, no signs of overheating, no air deflectors around the engine, the stock muffler is fine, the 20 x 12 prop is good, not sure what brand it is, but it looks similar to the Xoar, RPM is good at 7500 max, can still slow the model down for landing, so the 12 pitch is OK. but I only have a couple of flights on it so far. I have moved the fuel tank back closer to the C of G, (less trim change during flight) epoxied some ply in around the Undercarriage mounts.
Oldtimer
the DLE 55Ra is going like a beauty, no signs of overheating, no air deflectors around the engine, the stock muffler is fine, the 20 x 12 prop is good, not sure what brand it is, but it looks similar to the Xoar, RPM is good at 7500 max, can still slow the model down for landing, so the 12 pitch is OK. but I only have a couple of flights on it so far. I have moved the fuel tank back closer to the C of G, (less trim change during flight) epoxied some ply in around the Undercarriage mounts.
Oldtimer
07-14-2014, 06:16 PM
#3218
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hi, no problems.
a bit of info on how I do a few bits, when putting a new model together.
this is the way I line up the engines in my models, (it works for me)
fit the cowl first, when you are happy with it, sit the Fuselage up against a bench, sit the engine with standoffs on the firewall, fit the cowl over the top, put the Spinner back plate on, line the engine / spinner up with the cowl, carefully take the cowl off, mark where the engine sits drill the mount holes, now the engine / spinner is all lined up.
another idea to line up the wing dowels, work out where they go in the fuselage, drill right through into the engine bay area, sit the wing in place, drill back into the wing leading edge, all lined up,
not my original idea, picked it up on other threads, but they work.
Oldtimer.
a bit of info on how I do a few bits, when putting a new model together.
this is the way I line up the engines in my models, (it works for me)
fit the cowl first, when you are happy with it, sit the Fuselage up against a bench, sit the engine with standoffs on the firewall, fit the cowl over the top, put the Spinner back plate on, line the engine / spinner up with the cowl, carefully take the cowl off, mark where the engine sits drill the mount holes, now the engine / spinner is all lined up.
another idea to line up the wing dowels, work out where they go in the fuselage, drill right through into the engine bay area, sit the wing in place, drill back into the wing leading edge, all lined up,
not my original idea, picked it up on other threads, but they work.
Oldtimer.
07-14-2014, 07:40 PM
#3220
I cut the exhaust tubes so they only stick out about 1/2" below cowling. Works perfect. There are some more pictures a few pages back in this thread. Ralph
Last edited by Ralph White; 07-14-2014 at 07:44 PM.
07-14-2014, 07:47 PM
#3222
Yes. It's the DLE 55 RA. Have 53 flights on it to date. Runs great. Using a Mezslik 21 x 10 carbon fiber prop. Very fast.
Ralph
Ralph
Last edited by Ralph White; 07-14-2014 at 07:50 PM.
07-30-2014, 02:41 PM
#3223
I have finally finished all the glassing of my mustang. Wow, what a lot of work. It is worth it though. It feels more rigid on the surfaces. The Pimp my arf series on youtube was a tremendous help, making the whole process easy. I spent so much time reading on the process and now i think that was a waste of time. With the minwax polycrylic it couldn't have been simpler. Just a lot of time. Now on to primer, panel lines, and eventually paint. I will be using Modern Master ME150 aluminum paint sealed with nelson hobby clear coat-satin. If anyone has used these products please post pics and tips/advise. I can't wait to paint!
I am looking at engines and was sold on the dle 55ra. Now, I am waiting to see if the dle 61 will be offered in an "ra" version. I will add the bowman ring from the get go. Then on to Biela 4 blade props. Probably the 20x10 4 blade after break in. I'll continue to post progress with pics. Nothing purchased yet.
I am looking at engines and was sold on the dle 55ra. Now, I am waiting to see if the dle 61 will be offered in an "ra" version. I will add the bowman ring from the get go. Then on to Biela 4 blade props. Probably the 20x10 4 blade after break in. I'll continue to post progress with pics. Nothing purchased yet.
07-30-2014, 02:56 PM
#3224
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I have finally finished all the glassing of my mustang. Wow, what a lot of work. It is worth it though. It feels more rigid on the surfaces. The Pimp my arf series on youtube was a tremendous help, making the whole process easy. I spent so much time reading on the process and now i think that was a waste of time. With the minwax polycrylic it couldn't have been simpler. Just a lot of time. Now on to primer, panel lines, and eventually paint. I will be using Modern Master ME150 aluminum paint sealed with nelson hobby clear coat-satin. If anyone has used these products please post pics and tips/advise. I can't wait to paint!
I am looking at engines and was sold on the dle 55ra. Now, I am waiting to see if the dle 61 will be offered in an "ra" version. I will add the bowman ring from the get go. Then on to Biela 4 blade props. Probably the 20x10 4 blade after break in. I'll continue to post progress with pics. Nothing purchased yet.
I am looking at engines and was sold on the dle 55ra. Now, I am waiting to see if the dle 61 will be offered in an "ra" version. I will add the bowman ring from the get go. Then on to Biela 4 blade props. Probably the 20x10 4 blade after break in. I'll continue to post progress with pics. Nothing purchased yet.
07-30-2014, 06:37 PM
#3225
Hello Chris,
Thanks for the input. I was thinking the dle 61 might be able to do it with .5 more horsepower and the bowman ring, which through reading online forums, were reported to have a 300 rpm gain. I watched a youtube video of the dle 55 wizzing a 19x8 4 blade and another dle 55 doing ~ok~ with the 20x10 on a corsair. Can you give me a little more info, perhaps your altitude above sea level, engine type, and airframe? At $105 per prop I sure don't want to make a mistake in size. Thank you very much for your observation. The last thing I want is a turd in the vertical!
Thanks for the input. I was thinking the dle 61 might be able to do it with .5 more horsepower and the bowman ring, which through reading online forums, were reported to have a 300 rpm gain. I watched a youtube video of the dle 55 wizzing a 19x8 4 blade and another dle 55 doing ~ok~ with the 20x10 on a corsair. Can you give me a little more info, perhaps your altitude above sea level, engine type, and airframe? At $105 per prop I sure don't want to make a mistake in size. Thank you very much for your observation. The last thing I want is a turd in the vertical!
Last edited by spitfire66; 07-30-2014 at 06:44 PM.
