TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
01-07-2015, 05:10 PM
#3376
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Dave
All my gear are installed in planes. I pulled the part numbers directly from robart schematics. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/033...-5ESP.PDF?3792
The number I gave you was for the air gear. The number for the electric gear is 1 1.4 HOUSING BLOCK 620001P. You take that block shave the sides down to fit in the back of the gear housing. That will "cage" the rear cam block and not allow the torquing. With only a front cam block housed, the TRUNION WELDMENT can twist.
All my gear are installed in planes. I pulled the part numbers directly from robart schematics. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/033...-5ESP.PDF?3792
The number I gave you was for the air gear. The number for the electric gear is 1 1.4 HOUSING BLOCK 620001P. You take that block shave the sides down to fit in the back of the gear housing. That will "cage" the rear cam block and not allow the torquing. With only a front cam block housed, the TRUNION WELDMENT can twist.
01-07-2015, 05:15 PM
#3377
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Thanks I found it, I just had to remove the -
I think I have seen that mod somewhere in RCU.
It sounds like a very worth while investment in time and money to provide a more durable retract mechanism.
thx
Dave
I think I have seen that mod somewhere in RCU.
It sounds like a very worth while investment in time and money to provide a more durable retract mechanism.
thx
Dave
01-07-2015, 05:29 PM
#3378
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Dave,
If you find it send me the link. As far as I know, I was the one who dreamed it up in July. When I talk to robart about it, they said, " some thing has to be allowed to break under stressful conditions".
Maybe someone has a better fix. Let me know.
If you find it send me the link. As far as I know, I was the one who dreamed it up in July. When I talk to robart about it, they said, " some thing has to be allowed to break under stressful conditions".
Maybe someone has a better fix. Let me know.
01-07-2015, 05:40 PM
#3379
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Hey Chris,
I found the reference I was looking for in the TF FW190 thread. #3391
Is this similar to what you did?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...t-arf-136.html
Dave
I found the reference I was looking for in the TF FW190 thread. #3391
Is this similar to what you did?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...t-arf-136.html
Dave
01-07-2015, 06:33 PM
#3381
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It looks good.
Did yours fix the problem on your gear?
The poster in that thread was still working on things.
The reason I ask is, Robart has a sale on at present and I have a number of other parts to purchase and will include
these at the same time.
thx
Dave
Did yours fix the problem on your gear?
The poster in that thread was still working on things.
The reason I ask is, Robart has a sale on at present and I have a number of other parts to purchase and will include
these at the same time.
thx
Dave
01-07-2015, 06:48 PM
#3382
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Dave, it fixed the torque problem you will get if you don't land absolutely dead even on the gear ( who does). Now, on a bad even landing you won't torque the TRUNION WELDMENT and ruin the struts and weldments.
I have about 30 flights on this fix without any bent struts or weldments as apposed 3 sets of bent struts and weldments in 20 flights before the fix.
I have about 30 flights on this fix without any bent struts or weldments as apposed 3 sets of bent struts and weldments in 20 flights before the fix.
01-08-2015, 11:11 AM
#3384
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All
Thanks for the input on the Robart gear, but it seems to me that a product should not have to be modified to become acceptable. I have ordered the gear from Darrell and he says it will ship today, a far cry from the weeks and weeks of delay from CJM. I asked Darrell about supplying an electric option and he said that they are looking in to it, and if they find some quality product they will submit it for field testing in the future. If the electric is as good as his gear that ought to be an outstanding quality product. No word from CJM on reduction gear module replacement for the tail wheel so out with the mistake and in with the new.
I hope if Darrell does offer an electric option that it will be a retrofit arrangement so that the installed gear could be converted rather than buying a whole new gear setup. I am going to leave the wiring, switch and battery in the P-51 just in case he comes up with something.
Just bought a heavy duty 12v air compressor from the auto parts store and will carry it in my truck as the last cheap one failed after several uses. I have a 5th wheel and even though I carry two spares it always seems they need air when changing out. This unit states it can fill a truck tire in two minutes and goes up to 140 psi. As it has a three year warranty I'll try it out in the next several days to see how it works. Sounds to me like it should fill an air tank in nothing flat. One small draw back is that it must be hooked to a battery not the lighter outlet as it draws 30 amps, it does have 30 ft. of hose so should be able to reach about anywhere.
Does anyone have a small toy hauler 5th wheel that they use for hauling planes and going to contests? This seems like a great arrangement if you travel far and to many contests as your living quarters are right with you. Also there should be ample room for even the largest planes and a small shop. My wife and I love to use our 5th wheel and by using the additional smaller unit would make getting to the contests much easier. I have a Dodge Ram 3500, Cummings diesel, quad cab, with the long bed truck and my 5th wheel is 36 ft., if I were to add a 12 ft. plus, very light weight, trailer behind the 5th wheel I believe the total length would put me be over the max total towing length for most states. Any ideas or comments would be great.
Thanks for the input on the Robart gear, but it seems to me that a product should not have to be modified to become acceptable. I have ordered the gear from Darrell and he says it will ship today, a far cry from the weeks and weeks of delay from CJM. I asked Darrell about supplying an electric option and he said that they are looking in to it, and if they find some quality product they will submit it for field testing in the future. If the electric is as good as his gear that ought to be an outstanding quality product. No word from CJM on reduction gear module replacement for the tail wheel so out with the mistake and in with the new.
I hope if Darrell does offer an electric option that it will be a retrofit arrangement so that the installed gear could be converted rather than buying a whole new gear setup. I am going to leave the wiring, switch and battery in the P-51 just in case he comes up with something.
Just bought a heavy duty 12v air compressor from the auto parts store and will carry it in my truck as the last cheap one failed after several uses. I have a 5th wheel and even though I carry two spares it always seems they need air when changing out. This unit states it can fill a truck tire in two minutes and goes up to 140 psi. As it has a three year warranty I'll try it out in the next several days to see how it works. Sounds to me like it should fill an air tank in nothing flat. One small draw back is that it must be hooked to a battery not the lighter outlet as it draws 30 amps, it does have 30 ft. of hose so should be able to reach about anywhere.
Does anyone have a small toy hauler 5th wheel that they use for hauling planes and going to contests? This seems like a great arrangement if you travel far and to many contests as your living quarters are right with you. Also there should be ample room for even the largest planes and a small shop. My wife and I love to use our 5th wheel and by using the additional smaller unit would make getting to the contests much easier. I have a Dodge Ram 3500, Cummings diesel, quad cab, with the long bed truck and my 5th wheel is 36 ft., if I were to add a 12 ft. plus, very light weight, trailer behind the 5th wheel I believe the total length would put me be over the max total towing length for most states. Any ideas or comments would be great.
01-08-2015, 02:02 PM
#3386
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Ross,
I understand how you feel. The converting of air gear to electric is very new, Down and locked has been doing it for almost 4 years. Robart TF P51 electric didn't come out until Feb 2014. In many ways there are bugs to work out.
Sierra air cylinders are the best. I have a set of Sierra cylinders in Robart TF P51 gear in one of my plane, they never leak.
I sure Sierra air gear will serve you well.
I understand how you feel. The converting of air gear to electric is very new, Down and locked has been doing it for almost 4 years. Robart TF P51 electric didn't come out until Feb 2014. In many ways there are bugs to work out.
Sierra air cylinders are the best. I have a set of Sierra cylinders in Robart TF P51 gear in one of my plane, they never leak.
I sure Sierra air gear will serve you well.
01-08-2015, 06:16 PM
#3387
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i am new to this thread, i am building a kit version of this.
anyone have any words of advice for what you wish it would have, for instance, areas to be re-inforced?
i am also going with a da 85 and servos in tail for rudder and elevator. anyone know if this will end up being tail heavy? the DA 85 weighs less than a US 41 or a Zenoah G62 (by 6 ounces).
anyone have any words of advice for what you wish it would have, for instance, areas to be re-inforced?
i am also going with a da 85 and servos in tail for rudder and elevator. anyone know if this will end up being tail heavy? the DA 85 weighs less than a US 41 or a Zenoah G62 (by 6 ounces).
01-08-2015, 06:35 PM
#3388
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Orthobird
Be sure to beef up the landing gear bays. This is usually the weak spots for these birds. Also since you are going with a bigger power plant beef up the engine mount area. I have a DA50R and Robart air retracts in mine and have never had a problem. I beefed up those areas because the problems I've seen at the club I was in. Good luck wtih the build
Be sure to beef up the landing gear bays. This is usually the weak spots for these birds. Also since you are going with a bigger power plant beef up the engine mount area. I have a DA50R and Robart air retracts in mine and have never had a problem. I beefed up those areas because the problems I've seen at the club I was in. Good luck wtih the build
01-08-2015, 07:16 PM
#3392
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Just remember that flying a Mustang is totally different than flying our IMAC planes. You have to fly a warbird in with powerall the way to the runway. Getting the help from a friend is always great. You guys should come up here for the warbird fly in we have in May and the BIG warbird meet in June just up north of us.
01-08-2015, 07:37 PM
#3394
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I fly it with a 23/10 xoar. I've got some pretty good clearance on it except flying off of grass or petro mat run ways. Then it gets a little hairy haha. Just got to keep a cool head and try to keep the center where it is supposed to be during roll out. Once you get used to the way this plane flies it is a great plane to fly.
01-09-2015, 08:22 AM
#3397
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In an effort to find where the balance was on the P-51 I installed the gear, prop and spinner and 4 batteries in the nose. Batteries went where the ARF fuel tank location was using the same removable mounting board technique. Two LIFE batteries for the receiver and servos through the Smart Fly board for redundancy, one LIFE for the ignition, and one LIPO for the gear. Believe it or not, the balance was almost right on.
1-2; The on going saga of the electric gear has me spending another 16 hours trying to get the gear to move reliably every time you move the switch - so far not a lot of success. Some lessons learned here are; with the amp cutoff control board you can not run the gear up and down repeatedly as the H bridge circuit overheats and will trip to off with the slightest movement. This heating problem causes you to have to wait a minute or two before recycling the gear after more than two retraction cycles. As I looked up the TLE5206-2 device I found numerous mentions of the requirement for heat sinks on each device, I intend to travel in to Tucson and get the heat sinks and silicon grease and get them installed before I go fly. This may be over kill again, however, the gear always functions normally with the devices are stone cold (IE first try in the morning).
I wish I could say that was the only problem with the gear, but the right gear is internally binding somewhere and will not reliably complete the retraction cycle. I also had to take the right gear apart and tighten the gear reduction module on the front of the motor as it was loose. Additionally, I had to place washers between the motor and the end bracket to move the end of the jack screw away from the end travel as it was over running the jack screw. Tomorrow I will tear the gear down one more time and see if I can locate the item(s) that causes the binding. It appears I am pretty much stuck with the gear as the thought of changing the tail wheel is too much to consider, and I do have two out of three working reliably so I will give it another shot.
Backup plan - Buy Robart gear, and chock up the dollar and time loss to a real bad idea. However, it seems the Robart gear is a little weak as many have commented on breaking the struct, comments please.
3; Cowl, prop, spinner and 4 switch hatch door. Magnet holds the hatch door closed. Also shows the top of the DA60 and muffler. I did re-tap the spinner with a 4-40 tap as many have suggested. One has to be careful when drilling for the engine prop mounting bolts as the spinner back plate and prop must match up to the prop openings in the spinner.
4: Tail wheel with the gear doors in temporary location, I may not install the doors until later. Rear hatch installed but needs to be recovered, one of the million little items that needs to be done be for P-51 gets in the air. Weather here has be cold and very windy so flying looks to be on Friday, hopefully all will be ready to go by then,
01-09-2015, 01:01 PM
#3399
The brushless electric motor is the Rim Fire 65cc from Tower hobbies. It uses a Castle Edge HV160Amp WSC and 12-14cell Lipo Batteries. Observed Top speed in level flight is 98-105mph. It seems to climb at pretty close to top speed also. I can get in 2 vertical rolls before it gets too high to see. Gross weight is 29lbs. with this setup.
01-09-2015, 02:37 PM
#3400
[NOTE: I have posted a complete review in the "User Product Reviews" forum under my moms sign-in, bhunn3.]
There are a couple of TF 1/5 Scale P-51Arf threads running in different places. But I would like to see an assembly and setup thread dedicated to this plane so here goes. If you are working on yours please post away.
My construction will take some time because the retracts are on back order and I will not have the engine for about two weeks. However I can provide the following starting point.
My plane will be equipped with the Desert Aircraft 50R engine equipped with a Slimline wrap-around inverted muffler. All flight surface servos will be digital Hitec 5625’s because I had them. Will be using Hitec 225MG for the throttle and retracts. I’m using the recommended Robart 622-5 main retracts and the Robart 160 retractable tailwheel. I will probably end up spending another $150 to get their alumin hubbed scale P-51 wheels also.
Aileron and flap control rods are H9 titanium Pro-links with MK 2.5mm (red) BB adjusters (looks really sharp). I used the supplied control horns for the ailerons and flaps, but replaced the screws with neat button-head #4x1/2 screws.
Right now, while I wait for the Robart stuff and engine to arrive I am working on how I want to paint the guns, exhaust stacks and cockpit; and which scale WWII pilot to use. Also a couple dozen other little pre-assembly steps that soak up time. The attached picture is of my control rod setup.
There are a couple of TF 1/5 Scale P-51Arf threads running in different places. But I would like to see an assembly and setup thread dedicated to this plane so here goes. If you are working on yours please post away.
My construction will take some time because the retracts are on back order and I will not have the engine for about two weeks. However I can provide the following starting point.
My plane will be equipped with the Desert Aircraft 50R engine equipped with a Slimline wrap-around inverted muffler. All flight surface servos will be digital Hitec 5625’s because I had them. Will be using Hitec 225MG for the throttle and retracts. I’m using the recommended Robart 622-5 main retracts and the Robart 160 retractable tailwheel. I will probably end up spending another $150 to get their alumin hubbed scale P-51 wheels also.
Aileron and flap control rods are H9 titanium Pro-links with MK 2.5mm (red) BB adjusters (looks really sharp). I used the supplied control horns for the ailerons and flaps, but replaced the screws with neat button-head #4x1/2 screws.
Right now, while I wait for the Robart stuff and engine to arrive I am working on how I want to paint the guns, exhaust stacks and cockpit; and which scale WWII pilot to use. Also a couple dozen other little pre-assembly steps that soak up time. The attached picture is of my control rod setup.
