MRadu

I decided to make a thread coverting my AeroWorks P-51D to a more scale warbird. I have already started this project and do not have all the photos of removing the MonoKote and applying the fiberglass. For a more detail start to finish project check out my build threads at:

Balsa USA Fokker D.VII at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...balsa-usa.html
Here is the video of me crashing the plane.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=xjbnG6dntJo

or

Top Flite Corsair at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...fications.html
Here is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWROT...yer_detailpage


Here is the flight video of my first design of the AreoWorks P-51D “Hell-R-Bust”
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnnu0...yer_detailpage

I built the AeroWorks P-51D ARF stock. Well because the rudder was not attached I re-covered it yellow and using my vinyl graphics cutter I added the “Hell-er-Bust” on the nose. See flight video and photo 1.

After several flights and the fact that I added smoke to the mustang, the MonoKote started to peel. Gluing and ironing down repairs to MooKote never looks good. This is when I started to think about fiber-glassing the plane. Then on a fourth flight of the day my wing bolts feel out!

The wing fell slowly and landed without a scratch! It was a sight to see. However, the fuselage was another story. It came down like a lawn dart and though the engine was not damaged (it was buried in the mud) the fuselage was a total loss.

I was able to order a new fuselage. However at the time they did not have a non-covered fuselage in stock. I selected that the MonoKoted fuselage and transferred all of the electronics. Photos 2 thru 9 show my research for the next design scheme of “Eileen and Jerry”

MRadu

Now after the 2nd design was chosen, I started working on my vinyl graphics cutter for the artwork. I made the “Eileen and Jerry” graphics twice. Once in white and another in black. I also made the swastika kill marks. They’re made up of black circles and white swastikas. The red no step area on the flap was made of MonoKote.

At this time I removed the smoke tank and pump and added the Kello scale exhaust system. This exhaust system works great. I liked it so much I wanted to keep the plane looking scale. When the engine was running, the exhaust comes out of each of the pipes. It looks fantastic. What I failed to do, was add enough exit airflow. So my 1st flight with this design scheme, the plane flew great until the end. The engine started to overheat. When I brought the plane in to land, at my approach as I lowered the throttle the engine ran faster. I make several attempts doing this, and the plane was like a dragster running down the runway. On my 3rd and final attempts to go around, the engine died. The plane was about 25 feet off the ground. She crashed and cartwheeled.

At that moment in time it became perfect for fiberglassing and making her really scale.

MRadu

This is where I skip ahead. Repairs have been made, the MonoKote has been removed and the plane has been fiber glassed.

Looking at photo 8, you can see the landing gear. This modification, I decided to use Sierra Giant Scale gear and wheels. These wheels have a larger diameter, therefore, the wheel wells will have to be modified. I’ll be showing that work here on this thread. I know there’s a lot of work in modifying the wheel wells, however, as I perform this will show photos why. The blocks used by AeroWorks, are made from plastic just like the Robart ones. These plastic blocks inside are not reinforced like the ones in Robart. Should you Place any amount of side load on the landing gear on takeoff or landing these blocks will break and collapse the landing gear. I did this several times landing on my drop takes. From Sierra Giant Scale you can order just the blocks in aluminum as I did in my 2nd version of this Mustang.

John Taylor

My Feedback: (16)

Looking good Michael, Now I want to get my hangar queen out and get it going. I made a B version out of the D from Ziroli plans. John T.

MRadu

John,
Very cool. Post some photos if the queen is not shy. This thread I hope is going to be more open and more people post more.

pappy 883

My Feedback: (2)

Micheal , Really enjoyed all your videos, Thank you so much for shareing with us .

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Hey, nice job on the graphics. I have to hire you to make me a set when I get to the finish stage. I also plan on doing a 352nd FG (blue noser) scheme, but I'm doing a "B" model and the nose art selection is very limited compared to the "D"s. Probably end up doing Princess Elizabeth, ex-caliber or something. not sure yet.

MRadu

Thanks again Warbird Man,
Sure I'll be glad to make you some vinyl graphics and or some paint masks. Simply send me some scale picture and or photos and the size and I'll make them!

Leroy Gardner

Judging from what I've seen you are doing paint or Flite Metal. How far are you going with scale details. Love the mustang, mine is a TF 1/5 scale gold kit, graphics from Aeroloft, dry transfer, paint is base coat clear coat automotive. Interior of cockpit is all hand made, canopy is a slider made from kit one, has panel lines and 8000 rivets, just enough to set it off Both of these planes can be made into a true thing of beauty as I'm sure yours will be. I will watch what you do, enjoy a good finish.

Leroy

MRadu

Leroy,
Trully and beautiful work of art. I'm hoping my plane will come half as good.
Thank you for posting. What was your procedure for creating all those 8000 rivets?
I plan on using paint not flight metal. I have never used flight metal before.
I have a roll and my try a little just aft of the exhaust.
As for my cockpit I'm using IFlyTlies and building it this week. Well starting it this week.
Stay tuned. . .

Leroy Gardner

MRadu thank you for the nice words, glad you like my work. Pannel lines and rivets has always been a challenge for many of us and I spent a couple of months perfecting the scribing method for mine. It's all put in the primer coat before it's painted and depth is important so as not to bury them with the paint. Mine are not burned in as many do, they are cut in with a 1/16" brass tube sharpened on the inside and a clear styrene drilled guide. While time consuming it's rewards are wonderful and sets the plane apart from others. Looking at what your doing you are capable of the same results I'm sure.

My Mustang is only the second plane I have built in over 50 yrs. the other was a Eagle 11, if I can do it so can others. I did a thread in tips and techniques called easy lines and rivets that explains how I did it. I think you will find it very interesting. www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tips-techniques-180/10878666-

Enjoy, Leroy

I didn't put those little blips in address of URL which doesn't work with them, PITA at times. go to page 4 of tips and techniques, EASY LINES AND RIVETS

rcphotog

Friendly advice,
Just remember that 'less is more'
Since you have chosen to replicate a wartime aircraft ( as opposed to a modern restored warbird ) don't try to simulate each & every rivet or panel line. When producing rivets, you don't need to make each one the same - depth, clearity, fullness. All you need is the "impression" of a row of rivets. NAA used only flush rivets from nose to tail on the Mustang as well as Dzuse fasteners and phillps head screws. The Stainless Steel cowl panels that surrounded the exhaust, were 'spot-welded' to the aluminum pieces. The wing panel-lines were filled with 'dumb-dumb' putty ( bondo ) sanded smooth,primed and painted silver leaving the ailerons, flaps,horizontal,verticle and elevator bare metal. Rudder of course fabric.
After many hours of flying, the exhaust residue would "highlight" the screws, rivets,Dzuse fasteners and fuse panels. Dirt & grime would make these surface details stand out so build the model "clean" and then use your weathering teachniques ( paint washes ) to make these begin to appear more and more. Build subtle, then weather the @#$* out of it.
You could use silver paint on the wing and either Flite Metal or aluminum paint for the rest just so long as you can see a difference.

All this should be the fun part of modeling.
The "kit" you have chosen has a few errors in outline but most people, including judges, won't see them. It would be too much work to fix these areas, so just have fun with the outer "skin" details.
You know that I'm a horrible perfectionist so I won't be too criticle but I'll try to keep you "honest"
Your Corsair & Fokker turned out beautiful so I'm looking foreward to this project.
Ken.
edit: my coments above were directed at Michael ( sorry for any confusion ). Michael desires to produce to finest Mustang that he can and I just wanted to say - ( don't be heavy-handed when creating surface details because they'll look too "bold" after applying weathering ) It's the grime-of-war that makes those details stand out in those period photos ( as opposed to a "factory-fresh" plane )

Leroy Gardner

This and the TF planes are sport scale not masters found in Top Gun, judges know that and neather one of these planes has ever won a masters contest, off scale don't make it there. However these planes will hold their place in sport scale when you go all out. I agree with most of what you said but details done right set them apart from others. My mustang is modeled after the restored and polished Crips A Mighty 3rd and my 8000 rivets is nothing compared to the real plane, just enough to set it off while looking for them as they are not bold but there, same for panel lines, I did them all.

I'm with you, have fun and be happy and proud of a great job.