Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Alolha,
I pulled my PTE 36, removed both 2300 mha ignition batteries (I ran them in parallel), and checked their operation. I'm getting more then 2100 mha out of each of them, so that's not a problem. I pulled the fuel tank and I changed out all the fuel tubing...just in case I had an issue here somewhere-but I never witnessed any bubbles in the fuel line when I ran the engine-but just in case. I opened up both sides of the Carburetor and I had some swelling with the diaphragm and upper seal. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but I reassembled the Carburetor and test ran. Same issues.

I purchased the engine from T.B.M. and I e-mailed them a detailed letter. They were good at e-mailing me back the same day and we discussed the problem. I sent the color pictures of the engine instillation back to them within the e-mail and was advised to ship the engine back to them for repair. I'm not sure if I'm under warrantee or not, but advised them I would be willing to pay what ever it may cost to get back running. I wanted to buy a rebuild kit and new carb, but none of these were in stock...so sending the engine back was the only solution I had.

I now have a VVRC Twin 40cc gas engine inbound (with the smaller spark plugs) and I will install this into my F6F. With the smaller spark plugs and the way the spark plugs point aft on the cylinder head, this engine will fit into my cowl, with no further cut outs. Less then 8" wide and swings a 20x8 prop. This just may give me some additional power and all I have to do is remove a bit of lead in the nose area, for a perfect balance. With any luck I'll get the engine by Mon. or Tue. These engines have been out of stock for a while now, but a new stock arrived this Thursday and they shipped out my pre order that day. I'll post pictures of my new engine instillation.

Happy Thanks Giving...
Bobby of Maui

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Bobby, sorry to hear you didn't get your 36 running correcting. Sure looking forward to the pictures of the 40 twin installation.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay OldScaleGuy,
I received an e-mail yesterday stating the engine was shipped out and on the way. The web site for VVRC is yet to show them in stock, but it may soon. I will be posting picture of the new engine instillation and it would be nice to see this engine in my F6F next weekend.
Aloha,
Bobby of Maui

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

You fella's that have or had a Ziroli Hellcat. Please tell me approximately how much aileron throw you use. I am getting 3/4" at the outboard tip of aileron and not real comfortable that is enough. I still have some options to increase that.
Chad, getting close to ready for interior details and exterior panels, rivets, etc.

mirce

About rivets, details for surface, dummy screws, panel lines, check here also...

http://www.nsmodelers.rs/home/detail-set-za-ziroli-f6f

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

You got it Steve, I will get rolling!

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

After many hours of working strictly on flaps i can now move on to something else. Still considering what that is, about time to get serious about attaching the tail. The flaps took a lot more work than expected for 4 relatively simple parts.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Gentlemen,
Today I received my VVRC 40cc twin cylinder gas engine. To my delight, it will fit into the ESM F6F cowl with stock mufflers with a little room to spare. The stand offs given with the engine are 3/4" long and I need 1.25" stand offs for this airframe. I did find 1.18" stand offs at T.B.M. (DLE 30cc stand offs) and ordered them today. I will need to modify the muffler exhaust tubes and cut them a little for an easier fit. But the cowl will go onto the airframe with the engine installed without issue. This is one very compact little jewel of an engine. I will need to modify the throttle cable to the engine, but not difficult job. I will need to redo my battery, ignition box and electrical stuff after the engine is installed. It will swing a 20x8 wood xoar prop.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Bobby of Maui

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

That is one good looking engine. Please update us with your test run report.

lomcevac540T

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I would like to join up, finally got me CMP Hellcat flying great.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

Welcome aboard. Got any pictures to share?

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lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

I built the CMP Hellcat with a G26 and Sierra retracts and I added a retractable tail wheel. I will get pics soon. I still need to order some of the wheel well covers and maybe a drop tank from Chad V.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Gentlemen,
Well I was able to install the VVRC twin cylinder 40cc gas engine into my cowl. I used the stand offs that came with the engine, plus three large area washers under each stand off. This gave me an acceptable space between the propeller and the F6F cowl. What was interesting is that the ESM F6F has an air exit area just behind each cylinder and this was a nice surprise. I did open up my cowl ring from the kit supplied wood piece and I opened up this and other areas of the cowl ring when I assembled my cowl. By doing this, I was able to allow more cooling air to pass through my cowl...in the scale placements. This was a bonus for the twin cylinder engine, for now I have two larger openings just aft of each cylinder.

My first attempt at installing the throttle control was a wash-out. After I installed the throttle push rod, I found that the muffler interfered and hit the muffler, so I need to make a change. I originally had a Sullivan removable ball link assembly installed, but it ended up being to large to fit onto the carburetor and miss the muffler, and work properly. I then went with a "Z" bend wire and this did the trick. My throttle works perfectly. I do have one issue to figure out and that is how to set up a throttle curve with my Airtronics 10G. Once I get this fixed...I'll have a more linear throttle.

Next I installed the cowl and it went on with out issue. I then installed the spark plug wires to the engine and tried to install the cowl. Bummer...it didn't fit as easily as it did with out the spark plug wires installed. I will need to cut my cowl (!#$%&...!), to get the cowl to fit properly. I did notice that I will not need to make large holes, but I will need one small hole (I do pray) on each side of the cowl to fit the cowl after the spark plug wires are installed. I am going to install the ignition batteries and ignition electronics, then try the cowl and see how they fit and if I am still able to install my cowl with the current screw system I now use. I believe once the mufflers are installed, I'll need to make an adjustment to how my two lower cowl attachment screws. The two lower cowl attachment screws access will be hidden by the mufflers. I'll also need to cut the muffler exhaust tubes a bit, but not much, for an easier cowl fit.

Lots to do yet...but its on the work bench...

Happy Thanksgiving,
Bobby of Maui

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

Looking really good!

hessian123

It seems like a lot of the model engine ignition wires have large overmolding or metal shell features over the plug. That may be for EMI shielding or connection reliability reasons, but if you could get away with it, maybe a lower profile plug boot would help ease the cowl fitting issue. Something like this perhaps :http://www.amazon.com/Spark-Plug-Boo.../dp/B000VYHN2S
I seem to remember having a lawnmower as a kid with a spark plug connector that didn't even have the rubber boot, just the clip that brought the wire in from the side, so you effectively added zero length to the spark plug. Granted, there are high voltages present, so you may not wish to go completely sans boot, but if you are careful it could be done safely.

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

You will also have to have a ground wire if you remove the factory boot.

hessian123

I don't think you'd need a ground wire. The lead from the condenser (CDI module) to the plug is just a single conductor providing high voltage to generate the spark. The return current path is through the engine block. Anything else present in the plug wire probably only serves as shielding. The ground wire used for "killing" the engine goes to the condenser, not the plug.

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

The inside if the plug wire is the single conductor while the outside of the plug wire which is usually a braided wire is attached to the plug cap, which grounds out through the base of the plug, then to the engine case.

hessian123

OK, I just did some reading on the CH ignition website about the metal shell and it does sound like they are using it as a ground path for EMI/RFI reasons. It's a good practice from an engineering standpoint. I guess the drawback is the bulkier cable/boot. Technically, the engine would run without the metal shell and shield, at least on a magneto engine, maybe the CDI types require the ground path to be through the shield braid. My experience with CDI ignitions is limited, but I've played with magneto ignitions a fair bit.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Gentlemen,

I'm kind of new to gas engines and into using them for less then one year or so. I've five decades with glow...but gas engines are a good bit different. I've never run magneto gas engines and all my work has been with Electronic Ignitions. I'm sure there needs to be a ground wire connected to the spark plug as well as the hot wire...but not sure how its done on CDI engines. I'll need to pull one spark plug wire apart to find out...but not until I wreck one of my units.

I'm not sure about removing the rubber boot, but I decided to do a bit of cowl modification/removal to get the cowl to fit. I didn't need to remove much of the cowl and I do plan on painting the plugs so the two holes do not show much. I did manage to get the cowl to fit good...then ran into a new issue with the instilation. The mufflers need to be modified to fit properly into the cowl with the spark plug wires cvon.

I decided to use 1/2 metal flexible exhaust tubing but unable to find any here on Maui...so I wonder if any one has a connection for me. I need high temp flexible tubing, either plastic/rubber or metal...does anyone have any idea what I can use-or who stocks them?

I will need to cut the exhaust down pipe a bit, to get a clear fit of the cowl with each muffler, and depending on what I can find to use as an exhaust extensions, will depend on how short I can cut them. The exhaust pipes are fitted to the engine cylinder head a bit different. One attachment screw is bolted through the down pipe...the other has an hole through the base flange. Each cylinder down exhaust pipe mounts a bit different onto the engine as a whole. They are not even...but close, depending how you mount the mufflers.

While I figure out what to do with the exhaust extensions, I'll be connecting all the wires to the ignition module and mounting my ignition batteries.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Hi Temp silicone tubing, I get mine from a brewing company.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Chad Veich,
I went on line and saw this, but I could find tubing that went up to 475 deg. F. That seemed kind of to low a temp for an exhaust pipe. Won't the exhaust pipes get much hotter then that?

I'm kind of inexperienced in this area and need help working this out with more experienced modelers.

Thanks,
Bobby of Maui

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

It all depends upon just how close to the exhaust port you will be attaching the extension Bob. I've not had issues with using the silicon to extend the pipe(s) on in-cowl type mufflers. I am running smaller gassers than what you are using here though.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Chad Veich,
Thank you for the input and I may try using silicon. I did find 1/2" aluminum stove/water heater gas line I may try first and see if I can get this to work for me. I have noticed that the nitro engine guys use silicon tubing on their tune pipes with out issue...and nitro pipes get really hot...and I know this from past experience with them (!#$%& burned my fingers a time or two over the years). So lets see what I can find at Home Depot...
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Gentlemen,
I managed to get all the electronics sorted out on my F6F. There was a minor issue with my first attempt...and after a while...gave up and watched some football on TV. I went down this morning and got it right this time. I can't believe all the wires I have to contend with, with this model. I ordered from a beer making supply company the 1/2" silicone tubing I need... -100 to +500 deg, to make up a new exhaust to fit the F6F. It should do the trick and with any luck it will be here in a week or so. Until then, I'll install my fuel tank and ty-rap my servo/ignition & battery wires inside the fuselage and temporally install the exhaust pipes. This will allow me to test run the engine and brake it in, on the airframe. As soon as my exhaust tubing arrives, I'll cut my exhaust pipes and reset my exhaust to my engine. 'Then its off to the flying field... : )

After each step, I reinstalled the cowl, to make sure it would fit ok...it took some tweeting, but it does go on with a little fineness. This is about as small a cowl you can place this engine, but it went in. I'm still waiting on T.B.M. about my PTE 36.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui