P-47 Thunderbolt Brotherhood (All P-47s Welcome)
#1578
My Feedback: (17)
Thanks Duplicator41, so there is just one. That's what I needed to know. I've been looking for a picture of the landing light with no luck, has anyone ran across a picture of it?
#1582
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Becej-Serbia, YUGOSLAVIA
Posts: 2
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#1583
My Feedback: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 7,677
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23 Posts
http://www.warbirdinformationexchang...b6b44&start=15
#1586
Just about ready to maiden mine. H9 150 Razorback. Few more hours to tidy up the wiring, adjust the throws and balance it. Ran up the engine today with the full cowl and dummy engine installed to make sure it runs cool and it does.
#1587
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: São José do Rio Preto, SP, Brazil
Posts: 81
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#1591
Thanks, eager to fly it, but not until I am 100% sure everything is working. The servos have me on edge, they chatter. What's interesting is after moving them for a while they stop chatter and work fine, but with a plane like this, I may swap them out with Futaba 3010's. They are MPI metal gear servos. Already had a flap servo quit on it. Out of the 8 servos only four are working smoothly.
#1593
My Feedback: (3)
RROMANO , On a "short nosed" plane like the P-47, every ounce of paint,detail, and equipment you add to the tail needs 8-10 ounces of weight added to the nose to get the CG right. My attempts to balance a new stock 60CC H9 P-51D were frustrating as I had previously built an identical plane that had not needed any nose weight. I naturally tried to copy the first plane's equipment installation and was stunned to find that it needed a full pound of lead in the SPINNER to correctly balance it. I had to remove the elevator servos from the horizontal stabs and install heavier servos at the CG, on either side of the fuel tank. Then I had to dig up some out-of-production Sullivan carbon-plastic elevator control rods (very light) and install them in the aft fuse. This helped the CG a lot but more was needed. The stock tail control surface hinge pins are steel and weigh about 3 ounces so I replace all 3 with .080" carbon rods from Tower hobbies. To finish it off I rebuilt the two 5 cell nicad receiver batteries (light weight batteries would not help here) so that they would fit right up against the firewall (this moved Over 20 ounces from the tank area forward about 8 inches. Some other radio equipment had to be moved to facilitate the elevator control rods. The end result is a 27 lb. 5 oz. plane that needs no extra nose weight and I did not have to adjust a single trim for level flight during the test flights.
If you are refinishing an older plane, especially with a glass finish, you need to take special care to not add weight where it will cause you grief when it is time to balance the plane. Almost everything you do in the tail will hurt you. I use lacquer sanding-sealer sprayed over bare wood and sanded smooth to prevent the fiberglass resin from soaking in and adding unnecessary weight. Then drape the lightest glass cloth you can find over the surface and apply only enough resin to adhere the cloth to the surface (if this fills the cloth weave you have too much resin). You can remove excess resin by rolling toilet tissue rolls over the uncured resin, tear off the saturated tissue and do it again. Then, after the resin cures, fill the glass cloth weave with light-weight painter's spackle compound spread thin with an old credit card. Sand the spackle smooth, then spread a thin layer of thinned resin over the whole surface and let it cure hard. The result won't need much sanding and if you are doing panel lines and rivets these can be done at this point by applying masking tape, spraying primer only on the tape lines, then feather sanding down to the tape. This method rivals plastic film for lightness and is dent resistance and if you can get a very light finish coat of paint on it, you won't need to add much nose weight.
I used this method on a TF GS P-51B several years ago and ended up with a 29 lb. model ready to fly and no extra ballast.
Last edited by sjhanc; 08-16-2016 at 07:59 AM.
#1594
They only chatter when they move, and only 4 out of the 8 do that. Still going to move the RX to the side and back a bit mainly due to vibrations from the DLE30. One flap chatters, ailerons chatter, and the left elevator chatters. They are rock steady at idle, and only chatter in the mid range. I notice that after I move them for a while they stop chattering and move OK. It is almost as if they need to be broken in. In any case, going to switch them out with Futaba 3010 servos instead. The recommended servos are 60 oz plastic gear standards.
#1595
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 7
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building an esm p-47. Thinking about using an eflite 25-46 size nose wheel retract for the tail wheel retract mounted on a beam, all bulkhead retractable units are too big. Anyone with ideas? Thanks Art.
#1596
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Santiago de Compostela, SPAIN
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Hello. Would you please sign me up? The attached pictures are of my 1/6,4th scale P47D built from the Brian Taylor plan. I wish I had built it with panel lines, rivets and more detail including the colors! I am playing with the idea of building this same airplane but with the bubble canopy, electric propulsion and the Benidini sound system. I think that the warbirds designed by Brian Taylor are amongst the most eye catching models ever!
Best Regards from the Northwest of Spain.
Best Regards from the Northwest of Spain.