P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
01-13-2017, 11:18 PM
#904
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I will see you in the morning too Frank. Hope it ain't raining!
01-15-2017, 04:58 PM
#905
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: TITUSVILLE FLORIDA NY
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I have an ESM 71" P-51 Mustang D with a DLE 35 RA , with cowl off engine temp is fine 175 degrees Fahrenheit and flies well, 6 tanks of gas, but when I put the cowl and the ESM solid back plate spinner the engine will overheat after 3 taxing passes and quit on ground thank God., here is what I did, opened the front scoop more, reversed the mock scale exhaust to scoop air, opened the side panel cooling holes, perforating holes,
trimmed the back underside of cowl by the muffler,
Is it possible that the solid (no holes) spinner back plate which fits quite close to the engine cowl ring is obstructing a needed amount of inflowing air? Tried running with a smaller open back plate spinner an the engine did not quit, but while on a stand the engine did get to 211 degrees. I have read about baffles to the head but is a baffle going to increase the amount of air to a head totally exposed to air already ? Is a deflector plate needed to deflect hot air away from the carb ? (I read about vapor lock, don't think this is vapor lock an overheat at head) engine is set pretty good neither rich nor lean it has flow and it is solid, actually sound slightly rich already,
Anyone out there with some advice, planning on having solid back plate perforated with 8 quarter size holes and enlarging spinner prop openings (electrics have holes in spinners and turbine like back plates to channel air) Hope some one has some solid advice Thankes
trimmed the back underside of cowl by the muffler,
Is it possible that the solid (no holes) spinner back plate which fits quite close to the engine cowl ring is obstructing a needed amount of inflowing air? Tried running with a smaller open back plate spinner an the engine did not quit, but while on a stand the engine did get to 211 degrees. I have read about baffles to the head but is a baffle going to increase the amount of air to a head totally exposed to air already ? Is a deflector plate needed to deflect hot air away from the carb ? (I read about vapor lock, don't think this is vapor lock an overheat at head) engine is set pretty good neither rich nor lean it has flow and it is solid, actually sound slightly rich already,
Anyone out there with some advice, planning on having solid back plate perforated with 8 quarter size holes and enlarging spinner prop openings (electrics have holes in spinners and turbine like back plates to channel air) Hope some one has some solid advice Thankes
01-15-2017, 05:11 PM
#906
The spinner isn't the issue as long as the vent under the spinner is open. You need to baffle the cowl so that the air flows through the head and not around it. Also you need to have about 3 times as much exit area as you have entrance area. This helps suck the hot air out. 3/32 balsa works well for baffles.
01-15-2017, 07:40 PM
#907
I have an ESM 71" P-51 Mustang D with a DLE 35 RA , with cowl off engine temp is fine 175 degrees Fahrenheit and flies well, 6 tanks of gas, but when I put the cowl and the ESM solid back plate spinner the engine will overheat after 3 taxing passes and quit on ground thank God., here is what I did, opened the front scoop more, reversed the mock scale exhaust to scoop air, opened the side panel cooling holes, perforating holes,
trimmed the back underside of cowl by the muffler,
Is it possible that the solid (no holes) spinner back plate which fits quite close to the engine cowl ring is obstructing a needed amount of inflowing air? Tried running with a smaller open back plate spinner an the engine did not quit, but while on a stand the engine did get to 211 degrees. I have read about baffles to the head but is a baffle going to increase the amount of air to a head totally exposed to air already ? Is a deflector plate needed to deflect hot air away from the carb ? (I read about vapor lock, don't think this is vapor lock an overheat at head) engine is set pretty good neither rich nor lean it has flow and it is solid, actually sound slightly rich already,
Anyone out there with some advice, planning on having solid back plate perforated with 8 quarter size holes and enlarging spinner prop openings (electrics have holes in spinners and turbine like back plates to channel air) Hope some one has some solid advice Thankes
trimmed the back underside of cowl by the muffler,
Is it possible that the solid (no holes) spinner back plate which fits quite close to the engine cowl ring is obstructing a needed amount of inflowing air? Tried running with a smaller open back plate spinner an the engine did not quit, but while on a stand the engine did get to 211 degrees. I have read about baffles to the head but is a baffle going to increase the amount of air to a head totally exposed to air already ? Is a deflector plate needed to deflect hot air away from the carb ? (I read about vapor lock, don't think this is vapor lock an overheat at head) engine is set pretty good neither rich nor lean it has flow and it is solid, actually sound slightly rich already,
Anyone out there with some advice, planning on having solid back plate perforated with 8 quarter size holes and enlarging spinner prop openings (electrics have holes in spinners and turbine like back plates to channel air) Hope some one has some solid advice Thankes
01-17-2017, 05:34 PM
#908
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: TITUSVILLE FLORIDA NY
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it's all about the baffles $$$$
I appreciate your advice, the scoop opening has been enlarged by about 15-20 % any more and I will be cutting back into the cowl, the engine ring on the cowl is gone as well as
rear under part of cowl the bottom is completely open the scoop is a baffle but I will consider focusing air flow more, It just seems improbable that the back plate and prop spinner
hole should be ignored as a potential source of incoming air. I know many back plates are skeletonized ( for lightening, why would you really look to lighten a warbirds nose?) but
anyway check out some electric spinners with turbine-like fins and holes in the spinner, so it can be a source , I think, here it will be a combination of several things being done
not just one , I know it is baffling,
Thanks
rear under part of cowl the bottom is completely open the scoop is a baffle but I will consider focusing air flow more, It just seems improbable that the back plate and prop spinner
hole should be ignored as a potential source of incoming air. I know many back plates are skeletonized ( for lightening, why would you really look to lighten a warbirds nose?) but
anyway check out some electric spinners with turbine-like fins and holes in the spinner, so it can be a source , I think, here it will be a combination of several things being done
not just one , I know it is baffling,
Thanks
01-17-2017, 05:52 PM
#909
Keep in mind that electric motors are directly behind the spinner, where a gas or glow engine produces the heat below(or above or to the side) of the spinner. Letting air flow from the spinner would just put air over the crankcase where it would be useless in cooling. You need to focus the air flow through the fins in order for it to stay cool. I would show what I did with mine for the Saito 125, but the cowl is a bit mushed from an incident with a soybean field.
02-14-2017, 09:19 AM
#912
I need your help P-51 pilots! I´m working on new resin P-51 instrument panel for your Mustangs.
I need to know which one inst.panel looks better. The one with the big panel stickers or the other only with the notices sitckers?
I need to know which one inst.panel looks better. The one with the big panel stickers or the other only with the notices sitckers?
02-14-2017, 05:16 PM
#917
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The left one looks better to me and if the panel itself would be "greyish" instead of black, it would blend better with the
sticker and look more realistic.
02-14-2017, 06:23 PM
#918
vasek,
There is usually a white line around the critical flight inst. This first picture is of the panel on a P-51D being rebuilt, the second is a picture I downloaded from the internet, the third is a simulated panel I built for my H9 60cc P-51D, using the second picture with the size adjusted to fit my plane.
There is usually a white line around the critical flight inst. This first picture is of the panel on a P-51D being rebuilt, the second is a picture I downloaded from the internet, the third is a simulated panel I built for my H9 60cc P-51D, using the second picture with the size adjusted to fit my plane.
02-15-2017, 07:05 AM
#919
I have been working on an OLD Fiberclassics kit for the last year. it is very close to test fly day. Here are some pics.
Power is a DA100i, Spektrum radio equipment with JR servos.
Wing is all self contained for easy of field assembly. Just put a plug into each wing panel to control it. Tailwheel has its own air system.
Power is a DA100i, Spektrum radio equipment with JR servos.
Wing is all self contained for easy of field assembly. Just put a plug into each wing panel to control it. Tailwheel has its own air system.
02-25-2017, 08:04 AM
#921
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Location: ft payne, AL
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Hi guys. I'm new to this thread, but not to RC. Ive decided that my next build will be the TF 65in Mustang. I already have a 1.20 4s to install. I also have some electric retracts(not scale). Money is always tight so if these retracts fit, they will have to do. I'm wondering if anybody has any specific recommendations for this model. servo torque, rudder control system, covering (film vs glass and paint), etc. I'm open to suggestions.
I could possibly switch the 1.20 4s for a 20cc gasser. I do have the 20 allocated for an Ultimate, but I could be persuaded to change my mind.
One point I overlooked. I already have the giant TF Mustang. But it was an ARF I bought from a guy that won it in a raffle. Its 50cc and around 25 lhs.
I could possibly switch the 1.20 4s for a 20cc gasser. I do have the 20 allocated for an Ultimate, but I could be persuaded to change my mind.
One point I overlooked. I already have the giant TF Mustang. But it was an ARF I bought from a guy that won it in a raffle. Its 50cc and around 25 lhs.
Last edited by stevenmax50; 02-25-2017 at 08:27 AM.
02-25-2017, 05:57 PM
#923
Depending on the 1.20, if an OS or a Saito, it will fly it fine. You can use either Futaba 3004 or 3010 servos for it, plenty of torque and speed for this size plane, after all, the servos today are stronger and use higher voltage than they did when this plane was designed, so they work very well for it.
I fly the ARF on a Saito 125, and flew it with a Saito 100, and it flew fine on the 100. As far as covering, that is up to you, if you want it done quickly, plastic, but if you want scale, then glass it. As for retract, whatever you do, make sure the struts are strong, the wire style gear bends very easy on this bird, and also make sure you get them to stick out where the axle is even or slightly in front of the leading edge for better ground handling.
I have a B model that I am building from the kit and it will have either a 20CC gas or YS 110.
I fly the ARF on a Saito 125, and flew it with a Saito 100, and it flew fine on the 100. As far as covering, that is up to you, if you want it done quickly, plastic, but if you want scale, then glass it. As for retract, whatever you do, make sure the struts are strong, the wire style gear bends very easy on this bird, and also make sure you get them to stick out where the axle is even or slightly in front of the leading edge for better ground handling.
I have a B model that I am building from the kit and it will have either a 20CC gas or YS 110.
02-25-2017, 07:01 PM
#924
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Hay Acdii,
I built and lost a Top Flight P-51B kit last year. I have been looking for a new "B" model kit ever since. I have a DLE20RA installed in a T.F. P-51D now and a good power match. YS engine's are some of the most powerful 4-stokes made and will pull that Mustang through the air with authority. I am moving over to gas engines now, because the cost of nitro fuel is getting out of hand here in Hawaii. Though I do have some nitro models...no new ones.
The 20cc rear exhaust gas engines will run in the T.F. P-51 without any modifications....but a standard side exhaust 20cc gas engines seem to have issues. You will need to modify the installation to get the side exhaust 20cc gas engines to run properly. Most install a small 1/2"" tube from the front of the intake to the rear, left open to supply air to the rear of the engine area to stabilize air in that part of the cowl during flight. Somehow the pressure varies to much for the side exhaust engines to run properly without this modification.
If anyone has a T.F. P-51B kit they want to sell, let me know. I will take the large or small Top Flight kit. I want the "B" kit only.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I built and lost a Top Flight P-51B kit last year. I have been looking for a new "B" model kit ever since. I have a DLE20RA installed in a T.F. P-51D now and a good power match. YS engine's are some of the most powerful 4-stokes made and will pull that Mustang through the air with authority. I am moving over to gas engines now, because the cost of nitro fuel is getting out of hand here in Hawaii. Though I do have some nitro models...no new ones.
The 20cc rear exhaust gas engines will run in the T.F. P-51 without any modifications....but a standard side exhaust 20cc gas engines seem to have issues. You will need to modify the installation to get the side exhaust 20cc gas engines to run properly. Most install a small 1/2"" tube from the front of the intake to the rear, left open to supply air to the rear of the engine area to stabilize air in that part of the cowl during flight. Somehow the pressure varies to much for the side exhaust engines to run properly without this modification.
If anyone has a T.F. P-51B kit they want to sell, let me know. I will take the large or small Top Flight kit. I want the "B" kit only.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
03-01-2017, 01:53 PM
#925
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I had intended on installing a Magnum 1.20 4stroke on the TF 65in Stang. But I've decided instead on going with the VVRC 20cc gasser instead. I don't think it should be a problem power wise. I wonder if anyone knows where I could get a scale exhaust.