P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
#403
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I would Scotty, you know I LOVE hangar 9 stuff...
but I'm definitely looking for a BUILD, not an arf
(the only other official build I've got going on is a 1/3 scale Sopwith Pup... complete with (NON simulated) rib stitching)
someone's gotta give Steve Thomas a run for his money at Top Gun
but I'm definitely looking for a BUILD, not an arf
(the only other official build I've got going on is a 1/3 scale Sopwith Pup... complete with (NON simulated) rib stitching)
someone's gotta give Steve Thomas a run for his money at Top Gun
#404
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
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Trevor
#405
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Looking for templates/tracings of die cut fuse/former parts for Pica 1/5 P-51 kit. Am missing
about half of the formers in a recently purchased Pica kit. Any help would be greatly
appreciated and happy to pay for expenses,
GeneH
about half of the formers in a recently purchased Pica kit. Any help would be greatly
appreciated and happy to pay for expenses,
GeneH
#406
My Feedback: (65)
Here's a couple pictures of my TF 1/5 scale P-51 ARF. I converted the ARF to a "C" model. Colors are that of Lt. Zackmann's "Dody". Pilot is Best Pilot's "Bob Sweeney". DLE 55RE. Wing has not be detailed out yet but fuse is done. Have 10 flights on her as of this date.
Ralph White
Neoga, IL
Ralph White
Neoga, IL
Nice work Ralph!
I love the detail!
Did you strip, glass & paint it?
What was your finish technique?
#407
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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I bought a partially built kit not too long ago and just checked the box, but the punched out sheets for the formers are not there. The best I can do is offer the pages from the build manual showing the formers if you don't have that. However, I don't know if they're to scale, nor if they could be practically scaled up.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Hopefully, someone else will jump in with what you need.
Mike
#408
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Mike,
Thanks for giving it a try. I tried enlarging one of the formers printed on the manual id sheet and matching it
against one that I have. At 433% enlargement it the image was close to the real thing in size but the lines varied from 1/16-1/8"
in width, all the angled corners and notches were rounded and the sides weren't parallel. Not good enough.
If anyone has this kit and is about to start it, I will be happy to pay for tracings of the missing items which
I can ID from pages 9-10 in the manual.
Thanks,
Gene
Thanks for giving it a try. I tried enlarging one of the formers printed on the manual id sheet and matching it
against one that I have. At 433% enlargement it the image was close to the real thing in size but the lines varied from 1/16-1/8"
in width, all the angled corners and notches were rounded and the sides weren't parallel. Not good enough.
If anyone has this kit and is about to start it, I will be happy to pay for tracings of the missing items which
I can ID from pages 9-10 in the manual.
Thanks,
Gene
#409
Fly2XS,
Thanks for the nice comment.
On my P-51C "Dody" I painted the monokote. The panel lines were made by etching the lines in with the sharp end of my Coverite trim iron and a flexible straight edge. Pressed hard enough to dent the balsa but not cut the monokote. For the rivets I used brass tubing in a pencil soldering iron. Some of the rivets I simply used the brass tube without heating it. Practiced on an old monokoted wing panel. I weathered the rivets and panel lines with Apple Barrel acrylics from Walmart (.99 cents/bottle). Then I sprayed the entire model with Krylon Flat Clear. While the Krylon Flat Clear makes the plane look nice it is NOT gas proof. I will have to touch up any area raw gas gets on.
I do not recommend and WILL NOT BE USING the above techniques again. The problem is when the monokote wrinkles it is very difficult to get the wrinkles out. You cannot use an iron to get the wrinkles out as it will damage the paint. With a heat gun you end up chasing the wrinkles (and new bubbles) around.
Next time I will be removing the monokote and fiberglassing and painting. It is probably just as fast and a whole lot easier to keep looking nice.
If you have any more questions, I will try to answer them.
Thanks,
Ralph
Thanks for the nice comment.
On my P-51C "Dody" I painted the monokote. The panel lines were made by etching the lines in with the sharp end of my Coverite trim iron and a flexible straight edge. Pressed hard enough to dent the balsa but not cut the monokote. For the rivets I used brass tubing in a pencil soldering iron. Some of the rivets I simply used the brass tube without heating it. Practiced on an old monokoted wing panel. I weathered the rivets and panel lines with Apple Barrel acrylics from Walmart (.99 cents/bottle). Then I sprayed the entire model with Krylon Flat Clear. While the Krylon Flat Clear makes the plane look nice it is NOT gas proof. I will have to touch up any area raw gas gets on.
I do not recommend and WILL NOT BE USING the above techniques again. The problem is when the monokote wrinkles it is very difficult to get the wrinkles out. You cannot use an iron to get the wrinkles out as it will damage the paint. With a heat gun you end up chasing the wrinkles (and new bubbles) around.
Next time I will be removing the monokote and fiberglassing and painting. It is probably just as fast and a whole lot easier to keep looking nice.
If you have any more questions, I will try to answer them.
Thanks,
Ralph
Last edited by Ralph White; 04-25-2014 at 05:58 AM.
#410
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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So this is my back into flying post. I used to fly several years ago and stopped to race cars. I picked up an RTF Parkzone P51 to get my blood going again. This will let me my fix while looking for nice large scale kit P51 to build. I love looking at all the builds through the "BrotherHood", Can't wait to build my own.
#414
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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All Mustangs are welcome. Maybe after you learn how to fly the Foamie P-51, It will wet your appitiete for a larger, most scale in appearance Mustang!
Bigger flys better!
#417
My Feedback: (5)
Ed
Last edited by rc34074; 04-27-2014 at 07:10 PM. Reason: my lousy spelling lol
#419
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Ed
#421
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Instructor or anyone who has a Nosen p-51. Did anyone put any right thrust in the engine? I've put 2 degrees right in my friends and checked the plans but there is no mention of right thrust or down . I can take it out if there is not suppose to be any. But would like to know. Thanks John T Mustang brotherhood #55
#422
Hey John.
I wouldn't worry so much about down thrust on these bigger warbirds, but a bit of right thrust NEVER hurts in offsetting the torque of a big gas engine.
just my opinion, CAPTAIN RON
I wouldn't worry so much about down thrust on these bigger warbirds, but a bit of right thrust NEVER hurts in offsetting the torque of a big gas engine.
just my opinion, CAPTAIN RON
#424
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I owned a World Models Mustang 60. Flew it for 2 years with a Saito 100 under the hood.
That was a dam fine plane. I bought it used at a swapmeet and did some fixing up on it. Bought the engine
just for it. Man i loved that plane. Had a Hangar 9 blue nose too, right after they came out.
It was almost 2lbs heavier but it flew really great too. Untill the powerline got me..lol
Right now im building a TBM D-model. Going with a DLE35RA in it. That thing is HUGE.
That was a dam fine plane. I bought it used at a swapmeet and did some fixing up on it. Bought the engine
just for it. Man i loved that plane. Had a Hangar 9 blue nose too, right after they came out.
It was almost 2lbs heavier but it flew really great too. Untill the powerline got me..lol
Right now im building a TBM D-model. Going with a DLE35RA in it. That thing is HUGE.
#425
My Feedback: (1)
The Top Flight Kit and ARF are excellent. The ARF is on sale at tower for 299 and there is a discount code on the site home page for an additional $20 or so off and free shipping. It is almost 100 cheaper delivered than normally. (I paid 329 +42 shipping). There is a build thread on this site. The DLE 20 is a great fit for gas. Robart has Electric gear for the 3/8" struts with motors/actuators byDownNLocked.
BTW... i LIKE that park Zone... and the FMS foamies. Easy way to get back into warbirds while deciding on a project. Plus they are FUN to fly.
BTW... i LIKE that park Zone... and the FMS foamies. Easy way to get back into warbirds while deciding on a project. Plus they are FUN to fly.