P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
03-28-2016, 01:49 PM
#801
I found it much easier to just place the battery where I think it should go, and wait for the plane to stop moving, then I had a 1/2 hunk of lead laying around. Placed on the tip of the tail and it was dead on. Took me all of 15 minutes to take it down, pull the wing, mount the battery and glue in the weight, reassemble and put back on the rig. Came out right at 5 1/4 on the nose! Only thing left is align the wheels and check the control throws, charge the pack and hope the motor runs.
03-31-2016, 06:47 AM
#802
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
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Guys!!! Are any of you interested in trading a giant mustang for a 35% pau extra with everything new, jr 8911hv servos throughout and a brand new da 120? I need cash on your end but I really want a big mustang
04-01-2016, 09:27 PM
#804
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Qld, AUSTRALIA
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Hello Patrick,
re the ESM P-51B, you know the book is WRONG re the C of G, I have the same model, quite a few flights on it now, the 35ra really hauls it around, I am running about 105mm back from the wing join, you wont need much elevator throw, I think I am flying on low rates at about 10mm travel, mine flies with a little bit of down elevator.
Oldtimer
re the ESM P-51B, you know the book is WRONG re the C of G, I have the same model, quite a few flights on it now, the 35ra really hauls it around, I am running about 105mm back from the wing join, you wont need much elevator throw, I think I am flying on low rates at about 10mm travel, mine flies with a little bit of down elevator.
Oldtimer
04-23-2016, 01:06 PM
#805
My Feedback: (13)
Aloha,
I just re-engine my T.F.P-51D-ARF. I originally had installed a K&B 1.00, but I was never able to get the engine to idle reliably enough. So I pulled the K&B 1.00 and installed a DLE 20R into the airframe. I set the choke wire to come out of the starboard side of the fuselage and its a push/pull affair with a wheel color for griping the choke wire. The on/off switch is a DuBro unit and it is on the port side. The transition to gas was not that difficult, but I had to do a few modifications to get it shoe horned in. I had to cut a hole on the top of the cowl for access to the needle valves and I covered the whole with thin brass plate. I have a 16 oz. Roto fuel tank, a 3300 mha 5 cell, high discharge rated (NoBs batteries) installed, Lado retracts, Hobby King struts and a custom Dave Brown parabolic spinner. The spinner is cut for a Xoar 17x6 prop and the battery is installed aft of the wing saddle in the fuselage. I still need to install my main gear doors...but that is happening today. Yes, I did remove a good part of the Monokote and re-covered into a Red Tail. I just finished the re-engine and ready to fly...once the weather cooperates. This model was one of the first ARF T.F. built and is 6+ years old. It originally had only a couple dozen flights, before I hung it up for five years. After I totaled my "B" model, I pulled this model down and began the work to install the DLE into the airframe.
Note: When I went to install the battery, I found that the fuselage side sheeting was so thin, I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy, w/shredded fiberglass, and coated the aft two bulkheads where the battery was to sit. I set foam all over the sides and then pushed in a foam rapped battery.
C.G. was set at 5-1/2" and the model weights in at 10 lbs.10 oz. ready to fly.
This is not my first Mustang, I've built from a kit a T.F. "B" and another "D" in my days and love how the Top Flight Mustangs fly. The kit built "B" flew for over 10 years with a S.T. G90 installed and literally wore out one G90, and four sets of Robart Scale tires. This was my go to model for years until I self destructed and hit a wind sock poll at full power. There was not much left of the model...but it was a great re-kit moment.
Her are pictures of my last conversion and please mark me as a member of the P-51 Brotherhood.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I just re-engine my T.F.P-51D-ARF. I originally had installed a K&B 1.00, but I was never able to get the engine to idle reliably enough. So I pulled the K&B 1.00 and installed a DLE 20R into the airframe. I set the choke wire to come out of the starboard side of the fuselage and its a push/pull affair with a wheel color for griping the choke wire. The on/off switch is a DuBro unit and it is on the port side. The transition to gas was not that difficult, but I had to do a few modifications to get it shoe horned in. I had to cut a hole on the top of the cowl for access to the needle valves and I covered the whole with thin brass plate. I have a 16 oz. Roto fuel tank, a 3300 mha 5 cell, high discharge rated (NoBs batteries) installed, Lado retracts, Hobby King struts and a custom Dave Brown parabolic spinner. The spinner is cut for a Xoar 17x6 prop and the battery is installed aft of the wing saddle in the fuselage. I still need to install my main gear doors...but that is happening today. Yes, I did remove a good part of the Monokote and re-covered into a Red Tail. I just finished the re-engine and ready to fly...once the weather cooperates. This model was one of the first ARF T.F. built and is 6+ years old. It originally had only a couple dozen flights, before I hung it up for five years. After I totaled my "B" model, I pulled this model down and began the work to install the DLE into the airframe.
Note: When I went to install the battery, I found that the fuselage side sheeting was so thin, I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy, w/shredded fiberglass, and coated the aft two bulkheads where the battery was to sit. I set foam all over the sides and then pushed in a foam rapped battery.
C.G. was set at 5-1/2" and the model weights in at 10 lbs.10 oz. ready to fly.
This is not my first Mustang, I've built from a kit a T.F. "B" and another "D" in my days and love how the Top Flight Mustangs fly. The kit built "B" flew for over 10 years with a S.T. G90 installed and literally wore out one G90, and four sets of Robart Scale tires. This was my go to model for years until I self destructed and hit a wind sock poll at full power. There was not much left of the model...but it was a great re-kit moment.
Her are pictures of my last conversion and please mark me as a member of the P-51 Brotherhood.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
Last edited by Bob Paris; 04-23-2016 at 01:58 PM.
04-26-2016, 06:32 AM
#807
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Well, all you people out there who have a mustang, are getting a mustang, building a mustang, need help with your mustang setup wise, or need flying technique help, post everything here!! Pictures, questions, everything!! The mustang is the most beautiful plane in the air!
Howdy,
Please assign my number
Thank you!!
Top Flite P-51 60 ARF
04-26-2016, 07:37 AM
#809
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Thanks Chris, I will send him a PM.
JT, were you the last one to get a number?
Hi Guy's I have the Top Flite Giant P-51 ARF. Has anyone had trouble balancing the plane. Looks like I have to move the battery pack back behind the wing. using a Hydramax 4200mah 5 cell pack. The plan is to cut and make a tray
in the bottom of the air scoop behind the wing. Has anyone done this? John Taylor Mustang Brotherhood #55
in the bottom of the air scoop behind the wing. Has anyone done this? John Taylor Mustang Brotherhood #55
04-26-2016, 07:39 AM
#810
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Hi all. I'd like to be added to the Mustang Brotherhood. I have a World Models P-51 ARF in Rockwell International colors that's about 16 years old or so, with an OS-70 FS and JR radio gear. I also have the same plane but in the Voodoo scheme, in which I plan to run a Saito .82 four stroke. I don't race but I wanted to have a fun sport plane, and the Rockwell plane will be one of the first that I pull out from a several year hibernation. I also have a Top Flite P-51 ARF NIB, with a YS FZ-110. I bought that at the LHS in a major moment of weakness, so I have one more of several ARFs to look forward to building.
Say Jeff, did you get a response to your request for a number?
04-26-2016, 06:05 PM
#822
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You engine should turn this. The blades are wide though my YS 120 will run it on YS2020 fuel.
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/BP168-4.html
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/BP168-4.html
I will post the list once we figure the last number and we will add to it so everyone can see
04-26-2016, 07:58 PM
#823
My Feedback: (34)
Don't forget to balance laterally as well on the Rudder to nose spinner axis.
An old trick is to also add 1/2 pounce lead under the starboard wing tip to help counter torque. My mustang did not need it but my Spifire sure did like that trick.
My TF GS P-51 has a Brison 50, 6v batteries right behind the fuel tank and needed about 1/2 ounce lead in the tail wheel aft bulkhead to balance at 5 1/2.
An old trick is to also add 1/2 pounce lead under the starboard wing tip to help counter torque. My mustang did not need it but my Spifire sure did like that trick.
My TF GS P-51 has a Brison 50, 6v batteries right behind the fuel tank and needed about 1/2 ounce lead in the tail wheel aft bulkhead to balance at 5 1/2.
04-27-2016, 04:33 PM
#824
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I have a hanger 9-p-51 there 150 size or 8 scale alone maybe 5 times powered by Saito 180 plane is still gorgeous asking 800 for the plane this city is the golden Knight Edition plane flies great I kept control surface throw and flaps to factory settings 4 Mustang I was surprised it flew almost like a trainer have bad back haven't flown for years time to let someone else enjoy it if interested please email me at [email protected]