GallopingGhostler

Thanks all for your kind comments. It was amazing the large quantities of the aircraft produced to support the war effort. Reading that thread discussion and document exhibits shown, due to critical needs, improvements sometimes got delayed to not hinder production quantities needed. I guess it was the choice of either have something that at least allowed one to go after the enemy and protect assets en-route, or not have the capability to at least have a fighting chance. Given that most of our manufacturing if not all of it has gone overseas, I'm wondering if the US would ever be able to fight a major conflict, let alone defend itself if the balloon went up. What I find disconcerting is that it seems even the aircraft at Davis Monthan AFB storage yard are being dismantled, include some late model ones. The purpose of those stored aircraft was to provide the additional fleets needed until manufacturing production could ramp up on current models. As it is, we no long seem to have the manufacturing capability here in US any more.

Here is an interesting video link from that forum on pilot bail out requirements:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7jTdzfPUGA

70 ragtop

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Hi Dan
Got to love a good half price sale!
It's a small motor, hard to believe the numbers when you look at, but it has good reviews, and prop data...we shall see.

Started working the mods on the NP model, just posted some pictures on Ram's thread. Man I really wish they had done a few thing differently form a scale standpoint. I wouldn't think it would have cost more to manufacture more scale like canopy and cowls, but as it is 90" and weighs practically nothing, so it should be fun. Won't notice that stuff when its zipping by anyways...LOL. I do think I am going to mod the verticals to make them the right size and shape.....will notice that

70 ragtop

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Welcome to the brotherhood!

Bob Paris you are # 51
38lightning you are #52
Chris Nicastro your are #53

Chris, glad its warming up there, winter refuses to leave here. Hope you'll continue the build thread!
I'm really thinking the DLE35's are the perfect engines for the YA-38, and am looking forward to watching the build and hearing how it flys (hopefully a video!)

Got word back that I can no longer edit the membership list in post two, so will just update as we go along...

[ATTACH]1981487[/IMG]

Chris Nicastro

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Thanks, yes were really looking forward to flight soon.
Sit-rep: the wings are primed with Upol auto primer from a sray can, filled then sanded smooth. Next step is to fit the servo covers better and finish them with servos. Im going to tape and prime for panel lines so I will share pics from that point on.
I shopped for paint and settled on PPG Omni S125 Medium Aluminum auto paint and Im going to mix a semi flat catalyzed clear that will go over the painted graphics.
Otherwise just getting up to speed again from hibernation. I agree those DLE's are going to be perfect for this plane. Were getting another set of spinners for flying 3 blade props so we'll fly this set on 2 blades for now just to get time on the engines. We have about an hour on them just at rich idle with some clearing out revs. Both ran w/o a sputter for an hour right out of the box. Im pleased with them but still very cautious going forward.

SWORDSN

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Chris, are you going to break the engines in before you fly it?

panhandler

Not to often you can get deals like that. I agree the prop data convinced me. I plan to put them threw the paces on the test stand. We shall see how they compare to the Rimfire 1.20's that I plan to use on this 38. Nothing ventured nothing gained.At least they can be my backups or the beginning of the next build.
I am anxiously waiting to see what mods you do on the verticals.

Dan

70 ragtop

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I made a quick cardboard template for the NP vertical tonight. The stock ones aren't off that much, but I think a couple new ones will really help improve the side profile. Going to pull the covering off to see how easy it would be to mod vs just make a couple new ones.

Hope to get started on the nose gear tomorrow

BTW, the cardboard one moved a little before I got the pix, its not quite straight...lol

Chris Nicastro

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Yes thats begun already. The center fuse has all of the radio installed as well as the retracts so its basically operational. We ran the engines together in the airframe for about an hour. So a little more time and tuning and we have to run them with the cowls and check temps. I have to be absolutely comfortable with these engines.

SWORDSN

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That's a good plan. You can't take short cuts especially with a twin!

70 ragtop

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Warbird Al, welcome to the brotherhood, you are #54


Updated membership list attached

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70 ragtop

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Posted a little more progress of mods on NP model on the other thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/twin...g-more-41.html

Going to make some inexpensive wheel covers. Used the Yellow wheels, and Robart scans, but unhappy with the results. I have been looking for a picture of the prototype's main wheel, but it has to be straight on as I do not know if I have software to correct this, but I do know I don't know how to do it.

Does anyone have a picture of main wheel looking straight on, of any of our computer savvy brothers want to adjust this picture so it symmetrical

Thanks

Chad Veich

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Some P-38 pictures from my collection for you "Lightning geeks".

Chad Veich

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Chad Veich

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Chad Veich

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Chris Nicastro

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Back in October I was up close with Skidoo taking pics at Planes of Fame. Its so cool to get to touch these planes.

70 ragtop

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Nice pictures Chad, thanks for sharing!

Chad Veich

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My pleasure and I fixed all the non-working links. Sorry about that!

sudstad

Some of my favorite videos!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cS6Xd8xbd6A - turn up the sound on this one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7NADTfBwJ4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLKiQ06z7_g

sig

sudstad

Great pics Chad! I wish the VQ had the early engine cowls.

70 ragtop

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Hadn't seen the first two videos, very cool. Thanks for sharing

Chad
I was going to PM you about rivet and zeus fastener sheets you offer. Would you mind sharing some details/pictures of some of the products you offer here?

Thanks

Chad Veich

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Sorry for the delayed reply ragtop, I missed your post somehow. Regarding rivets and fasteners I have a number of options available. For those looking to apply rivets to a model that will be painted I offer laser cut vinyl rivets which are simply rub on. Generally I supply these in burnished chrome vinyl which allows for easy weathering but I can make them in any color in which sign vinyl is available, which is to say pretty much any color you like! The rivets are transferred from the carrier sheet to the model using plain old clear tape such as the Scotch brand stuff. With a bit of practice it becomes relatively simple to transfer 10-12 inches or more at a time. I recommend that these be applied over the top of the primer and then painted to prevent them from disappearing beneath too many layers of paint. If they are properly burnished the paint will stick to them just fine without the need for any primer on them. I can make rivets in any diameter starting at about .025" and with any spacing required. I can also make them to pretty much any pattern you need such as dual rows of rivets or circular patterns, etc. If you can draw it, describe it, or send me a picture of it, then chances are I can make something up for you. These are generally used to simulate flush rivets but they can do a satisfactory job of representing a button head rivet on smaller scale models. If you want a really nice button head rivet for the larger scale models then you can combine the vinyl with the standard glue drop technique. Simply put the vinyl down first and then put a drop of glue on top of the vinyl. This keeps each glue drop to precisely the same diameter and makes it very simple to get perfectly consistent diameter glue drop rivets. Along with rivets I can also offer Dzus fasteners as well as Phillips and slot head screws. Unfortunately my cheap digital camera has a pretty tough time capturing the very small rivets and fasteners but I will post a few pics to give some idea.

Here are the rivets on my Hellcat fuselage. In this case white vinyl was used instead of chrome as I intended to use a base coat of silver paint which provided for the weathering process.



And the Hellcat fuselage after painting.



Here is the vinyl combined with a drop of glue for button heads as used on my Midwest Harvard.



Here is a short video showing the basic process for application of the rivets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIOFFgviCdw

I would point out that it is also possible to use the strips to make the rivets with glue drops or primer as well. In such a case you would be using the strips with the holes in it as a mask for applying the glue or primer and discarding the rivets themselves.

For those wishing to add rivets over the top of a finished model I have a couple of different options. One is rivets cut from clear vinyl. The laser cutting process leaves a slightly darkened edge to the vinyl which simulates a rivet quite nicely. Here they are on a Monokote covered test panel.



As you can see they work great on light colors but tend to disappear as the colors get darker. (They do show up better in sun light however than in this picture.) My solution to this issue on a customer's Hangar 9 P-47 was simply to dry-brush the rivets with a light color of acrylic paint. The acrylic, being water based, is easy to remove should you get it somewhere you don't want it. The whole airframe was then given a flat clear coat to seal the paint as well as the rivets. A clear coat is probably not necessary on electric powered models but is definitely recommended for gas or glow just to seal the rivets against exhaust residue. Here's a couple of pictures of the Jug. The rivets are left raw on the white and yellow areas and are dry brushed on the green, black, and blue areas. Dry-brushing is a relatively simple process and does not take too long.





Another option for finished models is simply to apply colored vinyl to the model. In most cases my customer's have requested light and dark gray. The light gray is used on the darker colors and vice-versa for maximum contrast. Of course other colors are available and any color scheme can be accomodated. Sorry to say I don't have any pictures showing the colored vinyl rivets in action.

Lastly I can also provide riveting templates for those who are burning or scribing rivets using the brass tube method. These are cut from card stock and as with the vinyl can be custom made to any diameter and spacing necessary. Simply place the edge of the template against a panel line and rivet away.



I think that covers at least the basics. I'm always available to answer questions and appreciate the opportunity to share my wares.

Chad Veich
[email protected]

GallopingGhostler

Very nice work, Chad. Wow, results are impressive, can't get any closer to scale than that.

Bob Paris

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Hay Guys,
I purchased a VQ P-38 white kit from a gentle man and when I opened the kit...it was already started and was damaged. The aft tail booms were cracked and I have two left and one right engine pods. I will not be building this kit and actually boxed it back into to two boxes and stored it in my attic. I would love to see it with some one that can use the parts or wants to put it into the air. It will take some work to fly, but no longer interested in the project. I'll part it out or ship, but I live in Hawaii...and shipping is not cheap. So, if you need parts and willing to pay shipping...the kit is free. I've a N.P. modified P-38 built and I'm waiting for ESM to come out with their new P-38...if they ever do it again. I just want to see this model placed where it will keep one flying.
Aloha,
Bobby of Maui

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks Chad

Very nice indeed, have you worked up a price list , or have a sample pack? I would like to check out Zeus and rivet sheets in 1/7, 1/6, and 1/5 scale.

Thanks
Mike