Zoomer02

I'm building glow powered, it is mostly the same I just ignore all of the electrical talk. Mine will have two OS 0.70 four strokes on it. The threads are not exclusively electric just contribute some gas or nitro it's all good.

kram

My Feedback: (7)

Yeah, baby!

My third VQ-38 was powered by OS70FS's: more than 120 flights and largely because the OS70's NEVER failed me

One of my favorite and I believe most reliable glow engines on the market

kram

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Katy, TX, huh?

Ever see or hear from a little feller named George Lumpkin down there?

We miss him!




mt

SWORDSN

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I only made it to about 50?,used OS 91'S which failed me once,but I'm still using them on a VQ P61.

Zoomer02

Kram, Yes I see George most weekends at the flying field. He is really into electrics and making unusual models. He just finished a stick with 4 EDF's under the wing, an A-10 pod under each wing. He's a mad man!

langerl

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Everyone,
Well I just wanted to give you all a heads-up regarding several thread conversations I've had with some BIG NAME jet flyers regarding the use of gyros to inhibit or help prevent uncontrolled flight in the event of an engine failure (gas or otherwise) on our beloved P38s. The good news is I was very kindly received and provided some sage wisdom from VERY creditable authorities regarding our potential use of gyros on P38s. You can find our comment exchanges in the Jet Forum under this thread: Florida Jets 2015 Powerbox I Gyro 3e Special. From all the comments, the short answer is, unfortunately, consensus is that even the best of gyros won't altogether prevent a snap and spin on single engine failure, BUT we should get some precious assistance in maintaining control and managing single engine recovery of our models in the event of an engine failure. Perhaps gyro tech and maybe some sort of telemetry to give us some warning and info on WHICH engine has failed may give us a fighting chance to land our models safely after an engine failure. Check out the Jet thread. Some REAL expert opinions offered there. Personally, I'll consider this question resolved. Now its just a matter of finding the proper gyro (the iGyro looks the most capable and easiest to install and use) and the proper sensors for a telemetry capable radio. See? No problem at all.....

Regards,
langerl

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

To be honest, I never even thought about a gyro in a warbird. Since these conversations came up, and since I'm slowly gravitating back toward jets, I have been doing a lot of reading on the Igyro. Now the big I gyro with the SRS powerbox setup is expensive, can't call it anything else, and it's certainly not cheap! A much more reasonable option that also has glowing reviews is the Igyro 3E for $214. Ordered one today, and going to stick into a proven, trimmed out plane, and mess around with it. Looking fwd to seeing how it improves the flight characteristics of a proven plane

Now just need it to warm up around here, and melt all this snow

fw190

My Feedback: (37)

Gyros in a warbird might be great for smoothing out flights in a windy day but do you think that gyros might actually induce heavier stalls as it compensates for a straight and level flight?

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

That's a good question! I am definitely new to gyros. I too wonder if it will keep correcting on heading hold until there is no more control authority. I would love to hear from someone who knows

I'm planning to install this one in of my favorite "everyday" fliers, a Deuces Wild. From there, not sure what it'll go in.

Wyldkrdsg

Just found this thread and subscribed. I have acquired an Art Johnson airframe that had 2 .91 four strokes. The maiden did not go so well and a friend salvaged the airframe and gave it to me. I am going to convert to electric with Hobby People/EMP 91's on 6s each side. I have a build thread started but not much on it yet on RCG. I'm primarily an EDF guy but been in the hobby off and on for 30 years. I've done a fair share of building in my younger days and A LOT of repairing both wood and foam planes in recent years. It will be exciting to get this beauty rebuilt and in the air.

My build thread on RCG:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post30945865

Zoomer02

I've been experimenting with 3 axis gyros in my planes recently. I plan to put one in my LM P-38. In my experience it does not induce a heavier stall, on the contrary, it softens the stall as it lets the plane descend as it is correcting. The stall becomes a gentle straight ahead stall with no tendency for a tip stall. I am still learning, so far I have had it in an EDF Habu. I am now going to place it into a Hobbico Twin Star that I have had forever. It is easy to fly on one engine so I intend to test it on one engine flight. I'd like to see if I can program my transmitter to allow me to switch on engine to idle while the other runs on the throttle stick so I can practice engine outs. If it is too hard to figure out, I'll just put in a less fuel in one engine and fly it out of fuel. Hope to give it a try this month. Over all I am very pleased with the gyro, especially a light plane in an strong crosswind. Just line it up on the center line and it automatically corrects to keep the plane on track. It is a beautiful thing! Brings it right on to landing.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

From my limited experience with AS3X and a couple small planes I didnt like how the gyro over compensated. I had to over fly the planes in order to have good directional control. I was not that impressed and didnt make any adjustments to really explore the features. Ive flown helicopters and in that application I feel the gyro working with me not against as with the AS3X. With full adjustability on 3 axis I can see how one will eventually arrive at their level of comfort but in all honesty Id rather do the flying in any weather.
I should also mention that I noticed quite a bit of difference between flying in calm indoor and outdoor conditions verses windy outdoor conditions. The AS3X gyro did not like the calm conditions for some reason. Other club members had the same issue. So something to consider, not that you would use AS3X, but how does the gyro system behave in all wind conditions and do you have to make adjustments each time?

In the event of an engine quiting on the P-38 the first reaction should be to pull back power and establish a normal flying attitiude to asses the situation quickly and calmly. Then from there you have to do some of that pilot stuff to get her down safe.

Another note from having flown the YA P-38, its a bit intimidating at first but in reality its a big twin pu$$y cat. I had no trouble landing with confidence on the first approach. It has so much wing it lands very easy and I didnt even use the flaps!

Quick update:
Tom over at VVRC will do a counter rotation mod to the DLE 35RA and match the two engines for a small fee. By matching he will make sure idle and max RPM are as close as possible. Currently I will be taking the engines out and sending them to him. Also Zinger Props make a 3 blade 18X5,6,8 standard and pusher prop with 2.5in aluminum hub plates, their composite props if you will. Prices on their site are very reasonable. I will be testing the engines on two and three blades after the mod/match.

I understand someone over in the Wenatchee WA area is having this mod done as well. I hope I find out who and how they like it.

Zoomer02

I am using an eagle tree 3 axis gyro. On the 2D mode I agree with you that it fights you, as you put in the ailerons it compensates with rudder and fights you in a turn unless you fly with both sticks and then it goes good. In 3D heading hold mode it is almost like it is not there. It makes the plane go where you point it and smooths out any bad tendencies that the plane may have. The 2D mode is the auto save mode, it won't let you do a roll as it will auto correct. I don't see a need for that mode at all unless you are a novice flyer and don't know better.

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

From what I've read, the Igyro isn't supposed to fight you at all. Not supposed to respond any differently to commands. I started working on converting my old BVM F-16. That one needs lots of help on the nose wheel steering (especially when gear has a few miles on it). Figure for a couple bucks more, worth trying the 3 channel version

Wyldkrdsg, welcome to the brotherhood. I took a look at your thread, and it really doesn't look bad. Should be a really nice plane once you're done with it. Will be following along. Just as an FYI, not sure if you read thru this thread, but there are a couple pictures of the fowler flap setup way back, maybe Feb or March 2014, and just a couple weeks ago, some really impressive pictures of another build. I have not been lucky enough to see one of the Johnson P-38's in person, but from all the pictures I have seen, Art Johnson really got the lines right!

BigTeeEldorado

Hey Folks, I chimmed in a while back about a sport style P38 I envisioned and was stick building. It has been slow and even though you guys are way out of my league when it comes to scale I thought I would post a couple pics of where I am with this. To refresh, I have personally witnessed more than one of the infamous tip stalls and spins from both engine out and low and slow. The concept here is a stable flyer that can handle single engine flight and still produce the thrills of flying a twin like the 38. The results are more "looks like" than an attempt at scale but I'm hoping the flight characteristics are what I was shooting for. Here are a couple pics.

red76ta

Very nice, Tony, let us know how it works out! Don't sell yourself or your projects short!

Bill

Black Drape

Hey Guys
Got a question for ya. I have a first run ESM P38 and everyone knows about the incidence problem with the stab. I am wondering if I can mix some down elevator with the throttle. Mine flies with about 1/4 to 5/16 inch of down trim at full throttle. That makes it kinda hard to land because I run out of up elevator for the flair. Do you think if I set the elevator at neutral position at idle and about a quarter inch at full throttle it would work? I just broke a fifty dollar Robart nose strut because it landed on the nose wheel instead of the mains.Thanks for any info.
Ron

Pull-Up!

My Feedback: (4)

Ron,
If your transmitter supports Flight Modes, this might be an easy solution.
Set up FM1 for landing and slow speed ELE trim, then FM2 for normal flight ELE trim.
Just have to remember to flip the switch before you land.
You could also do this in your FLAP > ELE mix, program your low speed ELE position with your flap switch.

Good Luck!

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

I agree you can do it. Not sure if you have to setup flight modes though, I just don't like to flip another switch. Maybe a mix to increase elevator throw gear down, decrease it with gear up. That will help give you a little more pitch authority on landing. Then a mix of throttle and elevator as you said. I have done that before, and it worked well. Does take a little trial and error to get it dialed in

What kind of radio?

Black Drape

Hey Pull up and Ragtop

Those are some good ideas. I never even thought about mixing elevator to the flaps. I was thinking elevator to throttle because the faster it flies the worse it climbs. I just thought the more throttle the more down elevator it would add. Maybe that is too simple of a fix. Mixing some up with the flaps would be fairly easy. My radio is a Futaba 10C. The plane is powered by two OS 95 FS. It seems to fly well if I can just get it to land. I put the down trim in mechanically so when you cut the power it really wants to come down. That's why I thought when I cut the throttle it would neutralize the elevator. What do you think?
Ron

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

Hey guys

Does anyone have a stencil guide showing placement of all the nomenclature....the sheet that normally comes with decals? Marathon painting session is winding down, and I can't find anything showing correct locations for stencils. Here's a couple pix of progress

Ron
I think there are a few ways you can mix this out to make it much more manageable. I'm not familiar with the know incidence problem, you're sure its not nose heavy?

Thanks

lkahn4

Ragtop,
When I built my G&P Lightning I did a google search for pictures of the 38, as I scrolled through them I found a few that showed the position of the nomenclature

Good Luck
Larry

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

70 Ragtop
Nice paint. Couple questions for you;
How did you make the rivets on this one?
Which paint did you use for the aluminum?
I know you want the info now but Im out of town. I have a book that has the basic stencil layout for a new plane.

When is the maiden flight?

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

Hi Chris

Maiden? I wish a month ago, before paint, but mother nature had different plans. Haven't flown since October, so have shake the cobwebs out first, maybe May

Rivets are from Chad Veich, still figuring out what I like, and what I would do different. Paint is Kyron silver, Testors OD, Insignia blue, and bright yellow, Valspar white primer, and Rustoleum flat black. I like cheap paint, spray it in a cup, let it gas out, put in a touch up gun, or airbrush, and have at it

There is a thread over on RCG, always happy to have more interest/feedback. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...274813&page=11

Did you ever finish the one you were building? Last I saw anything, it had a silver base coat on it

Couple pictures from that book would be much appreciated

70 ragtop

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks Larry! That answered the question for a couple of them