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Blohm & Voss BV-138 Sea Dragon 1:8 scale

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Old 01-23-2014, 02:45 PM
  #26  
splinterz25
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Okay I went back and redrew the former shapes one set on paper the other on 1/8" ply I'll start cutting out the ply tomorrow morning and if all goes well I'll make a new set of templates w/ the ones on paper.

Martin did you notice one half of each former had a rougher side where he
didn't e-race the extra over drawn lines?

I chose to use the clean side for both haves don't know if it's the best side but at least they'll match the other side.

This should go faster because I can rout the shapes out of the ply ? we'll see

I hope the wing ribs aren't as bad?
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:30 AM
  #27  
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Well I took off for the whole weekend and did not build on either plane, but got back to making the 1/8" Birch formers this morning and setting them up on the jig to check how they line up now.

I've shown a little bit of my process for routing out the ply parts for those who may try making there own one day.

And so far they look much better lining up w/ the drawings width of the fuse.

Next I'll lay out the stringers so they won't wave up and down like the did before.

It's not perfect but WAY better than I had before.

And I know the right side matches the left, there's still a great deal to do here to even get these parts to my satisfaction

So have a look and I'll keep chipping away at her parts,

Bruce


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Old 01-27-2014, 09:57 AM
  #28  
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Hey Bruce,

Don't you have a couple of other planes you need to finish before you start on another endeavor ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?...................................LOL. I will say one thing though, you do pick interesting airplanes to build.

Oh BTW, not to throw this thread off subject, but guess what MAY show up in Pungo again this year for the Warbird Air Show at the Military Aviation Museum. Everybody's favorite bomber with four Merlin's for getty up power..............

Take care Buddy,
David
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:56 PM
  #29  
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If you read the threads you will see what I'm doing.

Bruce
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:49 AM
  #30  
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Okay this morning I got all of the formers in there correct place but not screwed to the jig yet; Then I ran a piece of string across where the stringers should go to see that it will touch each of the formers.
And it's quite good when I flush all of the formers on one side against the string on the other side there's two that sit back about 1/16"; This is far better than what I had before.

So now I'll go back and screw each former to the jig and hand cut in each slot where the stringers will go and tack glue some so they will stay mostly the ones on the bottom.

Dammed if it doesn't look like I'm building a battle ship instead of an airplane.

Check the photos,

Bruce


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Old 01-28-2014, 01:08 PM
  #31  
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I can't think of how you would have gotten two haves to lineup w/ all of the discrepancy in the former drawings? That was the way Gene intended it to be built?? I've never liked building in two haves.

Bruce
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:08 PM
  #32  
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Alright guys today I put the first bit of glue on this baby the bottom stringers had to be glued so I will be able to move forward.

Getting started was the hard part there so many things that have to be held square while flexing the compound curves on the bottom stringers.

But I've now have the top and bottom aft stringers in place w/ all the formers over there place on the drawing, this wasn't easy!

I've also screw in the formers from the bottom so I'll be able to release them once the skin is on.

The other thing I've done was put a screw plate holding the longerons down tight to the jig w/ the flex of the stringers it wants to rise up.

I checked each former at each glue joint w/ a framing square in both directions, not easy as well.

But now the middle stringers should be a piece of cake we'll see

You'll see how far off the original marks were and there would have been no way of building this plane in two haves.

Check the progress photos they show everything,

Bruce
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:49 AM
  #33  
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Well I made some good progress this morning on the tail section, former # 20 had to be put in place before the center stringers can be run.

This all went very well , but this next bit not so well.

And # B6A has to be in place as well this is where the wind shield will taper to; BUT again it doesn't look right?

The height is correct but of course the notch for the stringer isn't, and this is where I'll have to steam/ wet the spruce stringer to twist and bend the curve.

This is where it would be great to see what Martin has done if he's gotten this far?

At first I thought this former was maybe at an angle but that's not how it drawn it stands at a 90 degree from the longerongs and the height is correct.

I'M TAKING A BREAK AND LOOKING OVER THE DRAWINGS AND PHOTOS OF THE SCALE PLANE to see if I can figure it out.

Have a look at the photos maybe one of you guys will see something I've missed?

Bruce
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:18 PM
  #34  
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Well I did a quick mock up of the turret to see the relation of it the windshield and the compound curves in the bow, don't laugh at my wax can turret.

It looks like the former B6A needs some curving added and I'll need to add some 1/8"-3/16" stringers between B6 & B6A to get the skin to flow correctly.

And the stringer that I was saying had to twist and bend should be two pieces.

There also has to be some kind of former added to let the turret recess in to the fuse, Gene really left it up to the builder on this entire section

Check the photos and you may be able to see what the I'm talking about.

Bruce


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Old 01-31-2014, 09:57 AM
  #35  
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Here's what I came up w/ to make the transition from the windshield to the turret; there still needs to be another former in front of former 6 I used some 1/8" x 1/4" basswood and some 3/16" x 3/16" at the bow.

Have a look,
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:22 PM
  #36  
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Alright guys I made some very good progress today After I laid up the 1/4" birch 6 ply cut out the two wing main spars and all of there slots w/ a jig saw.

Then I cut out rib # 1 and fit all of these parts together; I'm thinking the wing spars will get a bunch of lightning holes that I'll add later.

I went to hobby shop this weekend and got one of the two things I was after the 1/2" 9 ply Baltic Birch for the fire walls and the tongue that will hold the booms to the wing in the bow.

The other thing I wanted was DOPE but they didn't have it again I'll have to order it on line and pay the hazard material freight charge.
That's for the PBY not this build.

There's still lots to figure out w/ the center fuel tank & scoop / air intake flow I have an idea here to help cool the engine in the center.

And you can see on the ends of the main spars where it gets thin that's where the 6 foot boom connect.

She's going to be a BIG ONE guys.

Check the progress,

Bruce
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:45 PM
  #37  
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Hi Bruce,
It's refreshing to see a "modeler" at work, it looks as if you might have been better off to start with a clean sheet of paper and do your own plans. Nothing is more frustrating than reworking a screwed up design. I just stumbled across your build thread here in RCU, I usually don't bother much with this site because of all the ARF stuff here. Where are you planning on flying it?
Best of luck and I'll keep checking in on your progress occasionally,
Larry B
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:08 AM
  #38  
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Thank you Larry... Even though there's been some parts off just a bit it gave me a good starting point.
When ever you scratch build off plans you should check everything as if nothing was done at all for you
to be sure and get it as close to the scale plane as you can.

Welcome on board and feel free to chime in any time; like you said on this site of ARF's where nobody
builds from plans or scratch anymore VERY FEW guys ever say anything, I really like when people ask questions it helps me be a better builder and gives me another persons view.
If you really like this kind of building you should look here http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...69&PN=1&TPN=17 I write/post on three sites and on seven threads on those sites.

Bruce
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:37 AM
  #39  
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Today I've been cutting out the rib templates 2 - 6 these are where the wing tubes will be fitted.
So I'll line up the first two w/ the tube in them the put each rib in it place marking one at a time
where the tube should pass through to get there correct orientation of the wing.

Here are some shots of the engines I'll use I think they'll have enough power?

This is the O.S. FS-95V Four Stroke Aircraft Engine.

Displacement: 0.951cu in (15.59cc)
Bore: 1.142" (29.0mm)
Stroke: 0.929" (23.8mm)
Practical RPM: 2,100 - 11,000RPM
Power Output: 1.7ps/10,000RPM
Weight: 20.88oz (592g)
Muffler Weight: 2.05oz (58g)
Crankshaft Size: 5/16-24
Bruce
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:13 AM
  #40  
lawrence b
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Bruce,
I am a member of RCSB and have several of my scratch builds posted there. I am not really big on doing posts or build threads, I'd rather spend my time at the work bench. I admit I do not "surf" the RCSB site much so I am not up on all the fantastic projects that are taking shape out there.
Keep up the good work,
Larry
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:46 PM
  #41  
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I may be wrong but those three engines should give about 5HP. ?


I'm not very good at those type of calculations so maybe someone who
knows these things will chime in here?


I'm cutting her weight everywhere I can and still have a strong plane.

THE GOOD THING IS IF I need a bigger engine the center one can be larger there's
much more room there.




Alright this afternoon I went back in the shop and made ribs 2, 3 & 4 and checked there orientation it's looking good so far.


You'll see where the tube will go since I went bigger w/ the tube it will be sandwiched in between the rear main spar; you'll see a line where I'll cut then flip the piece of 1/4" ply over and the groves will line up coming up from the bottom sandwiching the wing tube, this will all get glued in really good once it's correct.


It may seem like it takes me along time to make a few pieces but remember I'm making templates each time for every part then cutting out the plywood pieces and fitting them.


Check the days progress,
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:54 AM
  #42  
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Alright I spent the morning making the templates for rib 5 & 6 and cutting them out and routing them; there 8 # 6 ribs req. for the build and two of every other rib 1- 20
46 ribs total 1-6 are 1/8" light birch ply the rest are 1/8" balsa.
Taking a lunch break then I'll go back down stairs and see if I can put something together

Check it out this is how I've been making my parts,

Bruce
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:49 PM
  #43  
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If I can find where to buy this engine in the USA I think it will be the center engine
w/ 3.5 HP FA-220 "Zeus"

Specifications:
Displacement: 36.29cc
Bore: 38mm
Stroke: 32mm
Practical RPM: 2,000 ~ 10,000
Weight: 1,096g
Prop: 18 x 8in ~ 19 x 8in
Cylinder: AAC
Power: 3.5HP
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:03 AM
  #44  
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Okay I couldn't sleep last night so I was up working on the center section of the wing, I still need to come up w/ a jig / cradle to hold this while gluing.

But for now I've been working on the design; Gene has 1/4" x 1/2" stringers laid side ways 1/2" on the horizontal BUT he has them in front of the main spar / dihedral beam.

I want to change this and put a 1/2" x 1/4" on top and bottom making I beam construction, YES this will be a whole lot of work but it's very strong.

I'll have to run a 1/4" grove in all the stringers 1/8" deep and down the center and notch each rib where they cross and cut the main spar down to make the top of the stringers flush w/ the ribs.

I cut in the Alum tubes and removed the piece I was talking about yesterday then removed some of that piece and a grove in each rib then flipped it over and
and it goes right back in against the wing tube.

Check the photos,

Bruce
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:37 PM
  #45  
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kay here's where I'm at I went to depot and got supplies today 2" thick pink foam, gorilla glue, Locktite spray glue,Tite bond III waterproof glue, 1"x 4" x 6' clear spruce, CDX plywood w/ 1 A side this for the wing jig and some more spring clamps.

Then I got back to work on the wing tubes and main spar/ dihedral brace; where I cut off the piece and flipped it over and was going to use it but out on the end it was only 1/2"
So I made a new one, then where the tube ends and those 1/4" ply pieces came together was a week spot so I made a stop for the tube and at the same time joined the two pieces.
And on top of that will go the I BEAM It's easier if you just look I'm only showing a mock up the tops of all the ribs will be notched to accept this top & bottom cap.

And I will continue a similar type out on the wing tips only lighter materials.

Have a look,

Bruce
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:38 PM
  #46  
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Alright guys I started to make the wing cradle / jig for building the center section of the wing.
Some life stuff got in my way so I didn't get it finished before I ran out of steam
But here's what I've done; everything is dry fit so far and now I have to figure out the Dihedral / angle it breaks just after rib # 1.
So between the two # 1's it's flat about 4" then the angle brakes, in this case down because it being built upside down.
I haven't even checked what the angle is just yet but it's not much 2-3 degrees at the most.

Check it,

Bruce
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:02 PM
  #47  
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Alright guys I know most of you are saying why did go to all the trouble to make this cradle jig?
Well you would have a very hard time keeping the 2 1/2 degree Dihedral while adding all of the spars, 1/16" ply sheeting in the aft end for the split flaps and the wing tubes w/ out some way to hold it's shape in place while doing all this.

There's no jig tabs drawn on these drawings he doesn't even tell you the angle or incidence foe the wing; your on your own.

The other thing that Martin has pointed out to me was the way the center section mounts to the fuse there's really not much of any way to change the incidence if you need to or wanted to?

And for those of you wondering why I stopped working on the fuse and jumped over to this section this is why once I get all the parts dry fit here; this whole section goes back on the fuse ALL OF IT BEING A DRY FIT.

To be sure it all going to line up once again.
THEN the booms have to be made and then fitted so they will be REMOVABLE
once the plane is finished.

Once all of that is completed I'll start thinking about the tail section FIN, RUDDER,
STAB, ELV. that's REMOVABLE as well.

Anyway have a look at the days progress.

Bruce
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:46 PM
  #48  
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Okay the day was spent taking the center section apart and cutting in the lightning holes in the 1/4" main spares and tracing and cutting the templates; I still have to take it apart again to make the cuts for the I beams.

I've marked my templates w/ the cuts I'm using in case there's some one who would like to buy my short kit the way I'm building her.

There's some shop photos because I've had someone say I needed some tools out and mess TO SHOW I'M BUILDING THIS PLANE.
Questions just ask.

Check it

Bruce
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:49 PM
  #49  
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I worked on the I BEAM construction today and then had to fix the rear main spars angle to match the wing tube by adding in a piece of spruce.

I'll post some photos tomorrow when I get it all back together.

Bruce
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:04 AM
  #50  
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Alright I got up and back into the build and finished up a few last details to make the top caps of the I BEAMS match the angle of the ribs; the front top main spar had to have a 20 degree angle cut across the length and 10 on the bottom.

Once this was done the top caps went right on flush, there might be a small amount of tweeking to be done yet but this will be put together and taken a part several dozen more times before any gluing will be done.

But it's done for the most part and is going to be very strong here in the center section; I wanted this because having three fuel engines resting / mounting on this section it needs to be very firm.

I'm starting to look for a twin GLOW engine for the center section for extra HP. & THRUST.

Now that the inner center section is done I'll start to work on the outer part where the booms will hook in there are two more # 6 ribs to be added the outer will look different there won't be the lightning holes cut in it.

This probably won't look like much to most of you but it was a great deal of hand cutting to get these to all line up and recess flush.

Questions just ask?

Have a look,

Bruce
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