splinterz25

I'm looking at the machine gunners position an arch needs to be made for the sheeting to follow.
The aft end of the fuse really falls off fast down to the turret.

Bruce

splinterz25

Okay guys I started on the aft machine gunners station today.

I'm making this whole section so it can come out in one or two pieces and go back easily when the wing center section goes on for the final mounting.

I was going to make the top ribs in spruce but have changed my mind they will now be made out of 1/8" light ply.

I'm going to cut most of the way through the top of former #14 so when time comes to remove that part it will be easy w/ a few Dremal cuts.

Check the days progress,

Bruce

splinterz25

Originally Posted by Martin5465 View Post
Bruce, what "whole section" is going to come out? Are you saying the aft part of the nacelle will be removable? I might have missed something here.................

Martin the parts I'm making now will all be removable until I'm ready to glue in the center of the wing, I had to go out this evening but had the idea fresh in my mind so when I got home I stayed up and keep on working.
All of these parts lock in place w/ out glue just a few clamps


check it out,

splinterz25

Well I've not been well since the weekend and I'm not sure what's wrong but I couldn't even focus on anything for length of time until today.

So I went down stairs and did some simple things, I need more of the fiberglass sheet I used for the hinges on the rudders; so I thought I would lay up some of that.

This is also a test to see how the resin is working because it's snowing again here in Maryland.

I've also made some more parts to connect the sides I was working before; these will
make the sides one piece and they'll be easier to install when I'm ready.

The other thing is the slow boat from China arrived w/ the micro servo; it only took 25 days and Hobby King ing up my bank account to get it, I've not had a chance to try it yet?

No photos this time not much to show,

Bruce

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Looks busy! Man you are a machine!

Casey

splinterz25

Thank you Casey I BET IT'S NOT SNOWING THERE LOL

I finished making my fiberglass sheeting for the rest of my hinges; and the resin works well but this is the fast dry kind.

I ran a test on the turnigy micro servo and it seems very strong no gidders or humming; it even comes w/ a metal horn/ arm.
Still going to run a few more test though.

Then I put a few new pieces on the center section so it can come off in one piece.

I also bent some 1/8" balsa to see how it will bend; to do this I soak it in almost boiling hot water for 10 min, my tap water in my house is this hot.

I bent it around a can w/ the correct shape and rubber banded in in place let it dry a few days; looks really good it's the whole top radius, all that is needed is to add some flat sides to take it all the way to the bottom.

This is good no need for planking w/ all of the glue mess and w/ 1/8" thick balsa and my frame work no need for stringers either.
If I can bend this I should be able to do the same w/ the booms only w/ a longer piece.
I'll make a tube / cylinder w/ a bottom & top to hold a full sheet fill it w/ very hot water; I'm not worried about raising the grain here it's 1/8" thick and can be sanded w/ little worries of going through.

Hope to do more tomorrow,

Bruce

splinterz25

Feeling much better I should make some headway tomorrow.

Does any body have a link for a slimline / wing servo w/ good power that also has a good track record that's not $100 ea.

It has to be just at or thinner than 1/2" to fit

Bruce

splinterz25

This is what I've just spent the day working on was the firewall angle; it's NOW 2 degrees, I had to make changes to my finger joints and remove the triangle glue blocks.

SO IT'S LIKE THIS... the wing is set at 3 degrees incidence off the center line of the FUSE ; the center engine is set at 2 degrees up thrust off the center line of the FUSE, this still may have to be changed once flown.

The booms engines ARE SET AT 0 DEGREES INLINE w/ the center line of the FUSE.

Getting this right took me much longer than I thought it would today; but I was able to get the other pieces parts drilled and glued in place on the temp. removable center section.

I'm going to eat something and head back down stairs; I want to look at cutting in the air intake into the bottom portion of the center firewall.

There should be a really nice natural air flow through the center section and out the gunners station.

I know water is going to get in this planes hull so I'm already looking a bilge pumps; and will run 2 - 6V nicad batteries on this plane, I don't want lithos.

Check it,

splinterz25

So my brain has started working again and I have been thinking
about what kwik said awhile back about getting to the fuel tanks if there's a leak.

There will be a hatch to get to the hoses but there would be no way to change out the tank; so I came
up w/ a new plan, there will be a sub plate that the firewall will bolt to w/ T-nuts, the center engines set up is not that hard but the booms will be a bit of work; better now than later though.

I've also came up with the idea for the air intake under the center engine to try and keep water from getting in as much; on the scale plane there's a horizontal louver inside the intake if I can make this close when flaps are down this should help, once in the air flaps up it will open giving great air flow.

The center engine gets two intakes, the booms only one I'm still working on the booms out going air; looking at the scoops under the booms for that.

The removable center truss system is now all glued together and all the formers notched to fit.

There's still so much to do on this center section; there is a scale hatch on the top in front of the
machine gunners station that will be great for the electronics to keep them up high away from water.

Then there's the flaps these are going to be very tricky there's in board and out board flaps; the in board are easier than the out board because of the removable wing tips.

I'f I can, there's a small section of the out board flaps that is under the boom and remains when the wing tips are removed; this section either will have to move w/ the inboard servo or when I plug in the wing tip I have a tube & dowel line up as well.

This is one of those parts that would get broken very easy if this is not done well.

And I still have to finish boom two's aft end. [:P]

I love this stuff I never stop thinking []

Joespeeder

Hisplinterz25,

Great work !! I've always loved this plane and was following a thread on a kit development over at RCG's a few years ago but that just kind of died with no real progress.

At the rate you're building you should be ready for Toledo !!!

Thanks for all the posts and detailed shots of your progress it's been great fun to watch and check in as you go.

Joe

splinterz25

Thank you Joe welcome on board I'm glad there's another guy following along here on RCU there's not many; there really not interested in these kinds of builds here it seem these days it's just kit bashing putting an ARF together is considered building a kit?

To each there own; GLAD TO HAVE YOU ON BOARD

It will be at least a year before Toledo LOL

Bruce

splinterz25

Hi everybody... I didn't do anything on the plane this weekend but think about the next steps.

I want to have a really good look at the Flaps look and position there's very little info on these.

While looking for info on these I found out the AILERONS, ELEVATOR & RUDDERS are tinplate & fabric; FLAPS are all tinplate.

The flaps have an internal hinge/ turn axle like rudders and the inner set deflect 30 degrees and the outer 60 degrees; the other control surfaces are all just under 30 degrees deflection.

The Aileron hinges and control arms are external but I can't find any close up shots to make duplicating them easy?

For the flaps I would like to have one servo for each side, run the inner and outer and still have the wing tip easily removed.

So today I'll start by removing the center section of the wing and put the fuse to the side; while I'm figuring this out I'll also work on boom #2 and bring it up to where the first one is.

Things will slow down now for a bit because there's very little to go on I'll be making it up as I go
trying to copy other German planes when I can't find any info on this one.


Control surfaces
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Horizontal Stab and elevator
------------------------------ -
Total area &n bsp; &n bsp;16,56 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Depth & nbsp; & nbsp; 2,45 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)

Horizontal stabilizer:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;10,67 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 7,20 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth & nbsp; & nbsp;1,54 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Attitude against horizontal &n bsp; +5? +2? &nb sp; &nb sp; (src: Handbuch)
-4?
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Elevator:
Total area &n bsp; &n bsp;5,89 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: calculated)
Area behind turnaxle, including trimmrudder 4,34 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Counterbalance area &n bsp; 1,55 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 7,00 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth with counterbalance part &n bsp;0,915 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth without counterbalance part 0,675 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Position of turnaxle from backward edge 27,5 % ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Deflection upwards ; 29? &n bsp; &n bsp; &n bsp; (src: Handbuch)
Deflection downwards &nb sp; 27? (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate and fabric (src: Handbuch)

Trimming rudder:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;0,348 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 2,05 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth to turnaxle &nbs p; 0,15 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; fabric &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)

Vertical Stabs and rudders
------------------------------ -
Total area &n bsp; &n bsp;12,60 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)

Vertical stabilizer:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;2x 4,12 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth (height) &nbs p; 2,70 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth midheights (length) &nbs p; 1,53 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Vertical rudders:
Area behind turnaxle, including trimmrudder 2x 1,59 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Counterbalance area &n bsp; 2x 0,59 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth (height) &nbs p; 2,70 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth with counterbalance (length) 0,95 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth without counterbalance (length) 0,65 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)

Position of turnaxle from backward
edge, midheights &n bsp; 28 % ; ; (src: Handbuch)

Deflection inwards ; 29? &n bsp; &n bsp; &n bsp; (src: Handbuch)
Deflection outwards &nbs p; 29? & nbsp; & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate and fabric (src: Handbuch)

Trimming rudders:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;2x 0,143 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 1,425 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth (length) &nbs p; 0,100 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Ailerons
-----------------
Total area: & nbsp; & nbsp;2x 3,07 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: calculated)

Area behind turnaxle &nbs p; 2x 2,30 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Counterbalance area &n bsp; 2x 0,77 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 5,06 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth with counterbalance (length) &nbs p; 0,64 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth without counterbalance (length) 0,48 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)

Position of turnaxle from backward
edge of wing, inner: 11,7 % ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Position of turnaxle from backward
edge of wing, outer: 18,5 % ; ; (src: Handbuch)

Deflection upwards ; 29? &n bsp; &n bsp; &n bsp; (src: Handbuch)
Deflection downwards &nb sp; 21? (src: Handbuch)
Deflection when used as flaps (14?)
upwards ; 39? &n bsp; &n bsp; &n bsp; (src: Handbuch)
downwards &nb sp; 11? (src: Handbuch)

Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate and fabric (src: Handbuch)

Trimming rudder (only on the left side):
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;0,089 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth &nb sp; &nb sp; 1,05 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth (length) &nbs p; 0,085 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Flaps
-----------------
Total area: & nbsp; & nbsp;9,58 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)

Inner:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;2x 1,87 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth&nb sp; &nb sp; 2,550 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth & nbsp; & nbsp; 0,726 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Max deflection &n bsp; 30? ; ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Outer:
Area &n bsp; &n bsp;2x 2,92 m2 &nbs p; &nbs p; (src: Handbuch)
Spanwidth&nb sp; &nb sp; 4,43 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Depth (length), mid &nb sp; 0,66 m ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Max deflection &n bsp; 60? ; ; ; (src: Handbuch)
Material &nbs p; &nbs p; Tin-plate & nbsp; & nbsp; (src: Handbuch)

Ailerons:
Aileron-defl ection as flap &n bsp;14? ; ; (src: Handbuch)

splinterz25

I'm still working on the Flaps today I think I've got these figured out

But I can't find any examples of the aileron hinges; they look like offset flap hinges mounted on top of the wing this doesn't make since to me.

Or they could be a cantilevered hinge mounted on top? I'm really not sure what they did here

It will be a while before I need to do this but while I was looking at the flap hinges thought I would look for these also.

Any thoughts about these hinges guys?

Bruce

splinterz25

Well I've made a mock up hinge and gotten the first part of mounting the flap installed.

The real hinges will be either fiberglass w/ a brass bushing or 1/8" AG ply w/ brass bushing these are split flaps but there inset; Gene doesn't show this on his drawing, the way I've found this out was looking at the plastic model.

The aft edges is inset flush like the rest of the flap.

Here's where I'm at so far, it's slow going there's nothing on the drawings about any of this; So I'm making it up as I go.

splinterz25

Okay some progress was made today on the actuator arms; Martin had asked about using a bushing or bearing I've sorta used both w/ this setup.

I made the arms / horns continue out like the ribs on the flap and glued one in between; there made out of that fiberglass sheet I made a few days ago, even though there's a bolt going through the fiberglass and there won't be much ware I still add in a small piece of brass tube for the bolt to go through then into and through the ball link which acts like a bearing.

These are just 2-56 pushrods & ball links and once I gt the servo in the correct place
I'll cut the rod and solder on a 2-56 brass coupler / clevis or ball link.

splinterz25

I know you guys were wondering where I went

I'm still working on my yard/ garden/ fencing projects hang in there I'll be back soon.

Bruce

splinterz25

I'll be back on it in a few weeks the weather is perfect for me to get all my out side work completed before it gets really hot
I'm currently building fences,a sitting bench, and getting ready to start building a picnic table; I'll post some photos soon.

Bruce

splinterz25

I've now finished my spring yard work and should be back on the build very soon,
after some cleaning up of my shop

Bruce

splinterz25

I moved the fuse into the building room yesterday and I'm going to work on getting the wing mid section up there next week.

Also I bought the parts to build my Vac-U Form box I hope to start building on that tomorrow or Monday.

Bruce

splinterz25

In case your not following my PBY build here's the Vac-U-Box I'll be making the
canopy,turrets and scoops with; I give a step by step build of it on that thread.
I'll just show where I'm at so far here.

splinterz25

Well while waiting on the plastic and since were having a party/cook out this weekend; I took some time and cleaned the shop this weekend.

Then this morning I moved all the bits & pieces of the BV-138 build up stairs to the build room and the PBY build down stairs to get it ready for silk, dope & primer.

I over did it though this weekend and pulled something in my back so the rest of the day I'll work in my chair working on cutting out the fiberglass canopy's windows.

Check it out I haven't had this much room in the shop since I first made it into a shop LOL.

splinterz25

Guys I'm working on the Vac-U-Box but the plugs ready for the next test
maybe tomorrow; I'm confident it's going to work.

Bruce

splinterz25

HERE'S WHERE ..THE VAC-U-BOX IS.

After a few tries w/ different sizes and heat it worked.

But I think on the PBY plug I'll use a very light coat of NOVIS plastic polish to help the release.

I now can pull FOUR different sizes the smallest be a sheet 11.5 x 12 that one was to small for this plug being so tall and I'm using 0.030 plastic.

I used all of the suggestions I received from everyone the best one being to turn the plug against the rec. shape SO THE CORNERS DO NOT LINE UP.

Thanks Willsonman,

If or when you ever go to try to pull something have a LOT of extra plastic so you can play around w/ the temp and height of the sheet from the heat source to get it to sag w/ out touching the burner.

That's it for this test subject the next will be the PBY's plug I may be able to get to it on Sunday and that would be better to let the plug's epoxy paint harden even more.

SO ANYWAY CHECK IT OUT,

Bruce

splinterz25

HAPPY 4th of JULY everyone!
A big thanks to those who have served this country!!

joey_snaproll

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