Ziroli p-47 92" blown up to 110"
#301
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pardeeville, WI
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Sam
best of luck on the repairs, was awesome to get to see it fly, it flew very well and will fly again. I sure had a blast flying for the last 11 days at Owatonna and Fond Du Lac, see you in Muncie
Mark J
best of luck on the repairs, was awesome to get to see it fly, it flew very well and will fly again. I sure had a blast flying for the last 11 days at Owatonna and Fond Du Lac, see you in Muncie
Mark J
#302
My Feedback: (221)
Sorry to see your wonderful jug damaged Sam. Looks like you did the best you could. Couple questions. Were you using the 380 electric pump? Did you change out the Festo fuel line that comes on it. We have discovered that the supplied line is too hard to stay tight on the barbs. They will leak air very shortly after being put into service. This causes a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line. We now change the line out with Tygon.
#303
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Thanks, guys.
I don't use a fuel pump: I've been following Mike Barbee's advice on keeping it simple. I've, now, got about 90 flights on the two planes and this is the first engine problem. Before making any changes, I'll wait to see what the repair guy says at TBM.
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Repairs:
The damaged sheeting and stringers were removed from the bottom of the fuse.
A new removable fire wall was made using the old one as a template since the old fire wall is cracked.
Sub fire wall:
This fire wall is also cracked about 4" from the bottom. Instead of trying to replace it (difficult), some 3/8" aircraft ply was sistered to the sub fire wall. With the good stringers in the way along the side of the fuse, I had to make two separate templates so they would fit into the fuse.
Two poster board templates were made and then traced onto some 3/8" thick ply and then epoxied into place on the back of the old sub fire wall.
Since the sub fire wall is cracked, the new removable fire wall was screwed to the sub fire wall to keep it straight while the epoxy dries.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-19-2014 at 11:54 AM.
#304
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Repairs (cont)
Former F-2 was also cracked. Since it was completely cracked across the plies, plus it would be easier to add epoxy, the part was removed, dry fitted and epoxy slopped on both surfaces. A measured stringer was used to keep the top parallel to the fire wall, along with different size clamps and masking tape. Some aluminum foil to keep epoxy off my electrical parts.
Yesterday, the Moki 250 was UPS'ed to TBM (90 bucks just for shipping/insurance!). Will get to Florida on Thursday.
#307
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Yo Scott:
Nothing worse than having a broken plane laying around!
Those socks cover up wrinkled old feet!
Repair (cont)
Had some personal stuff that took all day so only a few things got done.
Belly pan:
back end former epoxied in place.
Fuse:
1/4" square spruce stringers epoxied between F1 and F2. Some wax paper to keep the glue off the removable fire wall as it was still necessary to keep the removable fire wall screwed to F1 straight from the previous crack. The stringers should keep it straight, if not, the sheeting will.
#310
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Video of the P-47 flying at NAMFI, 5 minutes into the video.
In June, I'm finding that I like to take the P-47 and F4U off on pavement(fast acceleration and less likely to have the large prop hit the ground due to low wheel resistance) and land it on the grass (makes good brakes).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC7JPiO2CfE
In June, I'm finding that I like to take the P-47 and F4U off on pavement(fast acceleration and less likely to have the large prop hit the ground due to low wheel resistance) and land it on the grass (makes good brakes).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC7JPiO2CfE
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-21-2014 at 03:40 PM.
#312
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repair (cont)
The aluminum vents were in good shape but I had to cut new aluminum sheeting for the underlay (2 1/2" X 7 3/8").
Able to get a smooth FG cloth/resin surface with some 220 sanding so no primer was needed (saved time on masking off the whole plane).
Aluminum duct tape laid down before adding the vents.
#313
Thread Starter
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Repairs (cont)
Engine box:
The locking nuts JB welded to the aluminum metal plate did not work as the nuts came loose when tightening the bolts. I filled in the three bolt spaces with some equivalent 1/2" thick ply and got some 10-32 bolts and blind nuts (T-nuts). Some epoxy should keep everything in place.
Wing:
The straps holding the two wing halves together seem to be working well, especially after the belly landing.
The belly pan took a lot of the gear up landing force and transferred some damage to the wing sheeting, which shouldn't take much to repair.
The wing sheeting where the right pylon is located, also took some damage.
A new pylon will need to be made.
Prop:
Painted the new blade tips yellow. It looks cool to see the large yellow arc of the prop when taxiing.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-23-2014 at 02:47 PM.
#316
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Location: Owatonna
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Sorry to hear about the mishap But I have some fantastic video coming for you sam I am trying to get caught up it will be some of the first NAMFI video up...
Not the best award shot but you did not hold still LOL
Not the best award shot but you did not hold still LOL
Last edited by hacker8675309; 09-02-2014 at 10:07 PM.
#319
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Johnson,
I called them and they said they should know by Friday (tomorrow).
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Repairs (cont)
Damaged areas on the wing:
Several spots around the belly pan plus where the front of one pylon pushed in the sheeting.
Pylon area:
The damaged area removed with a straight edge and xacto knife. Masking tape used around the hole to contain epoxy/easy sand, when applied to the surface.
A new 1/8" thick ply with blind nut was cut and epoxied in the recess for holding the pylon to the wing.
Some 1/8" thick balsa was CA'ed to the underside of the good sheeting and new sheeting was cut/epoxied to fit the hole.
Belly pan area:
Some damaged sheeting at the end of the main wheel well was cut out. Again, some sub sheeting was CA'ed in place and new wing sheeting epoxied in the hole.
Several dented spots around the belly pan where filled in with evercoat's easy sand.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-11-2014 at 11:12 AM.
#320
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Repairs (cont)
Bottom wing (cont):
The easy sand and/or finishing resin on the bare balsa sheeting is good enough for strength for such a small area without the need to fiber glass the area. The aluminum tape was then applied and rivets were re-applied. There's a small outline of the sheeting under the tape but, since the pylon will cover that plus it's on the bottom of the wing, I saw no need to make an invisible repair. As mentioned previously, aluminum tape makes surface repairs quick and easy. The patches made to the damaged sheeting that is not seen when bolted to the fuse did not get any cosmetic repairs.
Ailerons:
Interesting in that linkages to both ailerons were broken yet no visible damage/scraping of the surfaces of the ailerons!.
One aileron had the ply mount break loose: epoxy fixed that.
The other aileron had the outside nylon pop off the inside metal ball at the aileron's control horn. I use all dubro heavy duty ball links and that's the first time that has ever happened. The ball was popped back into the nylon sleeve and a metal washer was put between the bolt head and the ball link to keep that from ever happening again.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-11-2014 at 02:43 PM.
#322
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Repairs (cont)
Belly pan:
It took three coats of easy sand to finally get the surface smooth.
Tape and rivets added completes the belly pan.
Moki repairs:
All the wires (ignition and sensors) were replaced. The crank was checked and is straight. She started up and ran fine in high but would not idle.
Monday, they will put in a new carb and see if that works. If that doesn't work, they'll check for leaks.
Initially, when using CF props, I was a little concerned that a ground strike might damage the crank but John, the tech, said the crank is extremely strong.
Also, I saw grease, twice, coming out of the cylinder that the clear tube for the pump is connected to via a festo connector. He said that there is now a very small hole in that cylinder that allows the grease to escape instead of clogging up the clear tube to the carb.
So, hopefully, the engine will be back in time so I can take it to Mac's rally of the eagles and 12 o'clock high at Lakeland.
#323
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Repairs (cont)
Gas tank:
Checked the clunk tubing and it was U bent, even with a piece of brass between the clunk and stopper.
Wing fillet:
There was a stress crack along the fillet. Cut away the aluminum tape, used some easy sand, wet sanded it and put new aluminum tape and rivets back on.
Pylon:
There were three main pylon parts left after the belly landing. They were epoxied back together along with some new P-4 formers and one new side.
Again, new aluminum tape and rivets added.
#324
The thread and pictures make it look so effortless and quick. I know this is taking up time and hard work on your part Sam so............nice work and good job. She'll be up in no time. Just gotta get that engine back!
All the best.
All the best.
#325
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Yo Scott,
Yep, with the fire wall about done, about all I need now is an engine!
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Repairs (cont)
Fire wall:
Marked off the new area of the engine box onto the fire wall and dry fitted cowl to insure all is aligned.
Sanded off all the old hysol off the engine box, drilled holes between mating surfaces of the box and fire wall and hysoled and screwed the box to the fire wall. I used 1 1/4" long screws versus the past 3/4" screws. Twelve screws into the engine box and four more for the cowl mounts. Also, epoxied and screwed the ignition/battery tray on the back of the fire wall.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-16-2014 at 07:48 AM.