Ziroli p-47 92" blown up to 110"
#352
My Feedback: (65)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sam, I sent you a PM and wondering what foil tape you used on you last Jug and B-24
is it this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Ta...7801/100507541
is it this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Ta...7801/100507541
#353
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
That's the tape that I use.
Starting at post # 100 is a detailed explanation of how I put the tape down:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ssembly-4.html
As for you getting bumps, I've never had this problem. I'm assuming you have prep'ed the surface as would be done for painting, ie, resin applied FG cloth and primer/sanding to smooth the entire surface.
I've got some thinner thickness 6" wide tape that I ordered a long time ago from a web site. It's advantages are it does compound curves better. It's disadvantages is it curls easily when the paper backing is removed (thus making application harder) and I find large pieces are difficult to apply without getting wrinkles as any outer part that touches the planes surface before getting the center smoothed out creates wrinkles.
For covering large panels, I just break up the panel in sections where rivets will be and overlap the rivet area by a 1/16".
As for replying to private messages: This web site doesn't notify you when a message is sent so it's not easy to know when messages are sent. They used to put a red tag at the top of the screen to indicate a message was sent.
Starting at post # 100 is a detailed explanation of how I put the tape down:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ssembly-4.html
As for you getting bumps, I've never had this problem. I'm assuming you have prep'ed the surface as would be done for painting, ie, resin applied FG cloth and primer/sanding to smooth the entire surface.
I've got some thinner thickness 6" wide tape that I ordered a long time ago from a web site. It's advantages are it does compound curves better. It's disadvantages is it curls easily when the paper backing is removed (thus making application harder) and I find large pieces are difficult to apply without getting wrinkles as any outer part that touches the planes surface before getting the center smoothed out creates wrinkles.
For covering large panels, I just break up the panel in sections where rivets will be and overlap the rivet area by a 1/16".
As for replying to private messages: This web site doesn't notify you when a message is sent so it's not easy to know when messages are sent. They used to put a red tag at the top of the screen to indicate a message was sent.
Last edited by samparfitt; 12-16-2014 at 07:20 AM.
#356
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Moki 250 not starting on last event of last season.
Got the engine back from TBM.
There was a loud 'clunk' when turning the prop.
TBM's moki tech opened up the front and back of the engine. He didn't find any damaged parts but a front bolt on the front shaft needed to be tightened to move the shaft forward about a 1/16" to keep parts from hitting each other.
UPS was a little rough on the engine (must of dropped it) as one bolt on a rocker arm was broken as well as a bent push rod. Called TBM to get new parts so I can replace them. The shaft of the engine went through the top of the moki box and the in sides of the box cardboard was beat up pretty good from all the movement. The engine was secured to the original wood base but the engine could move up and down in the box since it went through the moki box (rough UPS handling allowed the shaft to move vertically since the shaft went through the top of the box).
My second engine came with a donut shaped bubble wrap to keep the engine from vertical movement( my previous engine did not have the extra padding). I sent the engine with the extra donut wrap but it wasn't used on the return. I would suggest all mailed moki engines be mailed with this extra donut padding. Using some twine or box tape to secure the top of the box to the bottom, also wouldn't hurt.
Last edited by samparfitt; 01-12-2015 at 01:09 PM.
#357
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
PM for new season:
Replaced the broken rocker arm bolt that occurred when the engine was sent back to me.
Valve adjustment:
Using Scott's advice, I rotated the shaft until the needed intake push valve at the base of the engine started to recess and then turned the prop another 360 degrees and then set the valve clearance with the feeler gauge for a snug fit.
Engine to fire wall:
Re-attached the engine to the fire wall and two servos, along with putting the ignition box back on the fire wall. Some electrical tape on the screwed on connector to insure it doesn't vibrate lose.
Engine test.
Initially, the engine wouldn't start. Found out that the separate voltage regulator was defective. Scott said the new blue ignition modules have their own regulators so it's not needed.
After removing the regulator, the engine started easily.
Low end was good at 800 but only maxed out at 3700 on the top end.
After playing with the H/L needles, I called John (moki tech at TBM).
He said:
Needle settings: L: 1 ¼, H: 1 ½ and usually keep it there for high end. Just adjust the low needle by 1/16” turn at a time. Idle 700-800, High 3800-4000, 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] cylinder should be 160-165 degrees. Top cylinder max 220 degrees.
Last year I was getting 4000 rpm's but max'ed out at 3700, this year.
Getting late, will get some new, fresh gas, tomorrow, and try again.
Replaced the broken rocker arm bolt that occurred when the engine was sent back to me.
Valve adjustment:
Using Scott's advice, I rotated the shaft until the needed intake push valve at the base of the engine started to recess and then turned the prop another 360 degrees and then set the valve clearance with the feeler gauge for a snug fit.
Engine to fire wall:
Re-attached the engine to the fire wall and two servos, along with putting the ignition box back on the fire wall. Some electrical tape on the screwed on connector to insure it doesn't vibrate lose.
Engine test.
Initially, the engine wouldn't start. Found out that the separate voltage regulator was defective. Scott said the new blue ignition modules have their own regulators so it's not needed.
After removing the regulator, the engine started easily.
Low end was good at 800 but only maxed out at 3700 on the top end.
After playing with the H/L needles, I called John (moki tech at TBM).
He said:
Needle settings: L: 1 ¼, H: 1 ½ and usually keep it there for high end. Just adjust the low needle by 1/16” turn at a time. Idle 700-800, High 3800-4000, 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] cylinder should be 160-165 degrees. Top cylinder max 220 degrees.
Last year I was getting 4000 rpm's but max'ed out at 3700, this year.
Getting late, will get some new, fresh gas, tomorrow, and try again.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-25-2015 at 03:12 PM.
#358
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
PM (cont)
Ran some BVM O ring oil into the mains and main fill valve.
Noticed one elevator had some slop while the receiver was on: the 4/40 bolt going through the tapped metal servo arm was loose.
Some slop in the aileron servo tray was fixed with some 1/64" thick ply pushed between the rubber/brass grommets and the servo tray.
Engine test (cont):
Ended up with the low and high needle settings at 1.7 each (same as my corsair). Had the low end around 1 turn open and the engine almost stops when full throttle applied quickly. Max rpm's attained was 3700 so I rotated the blades about a 1/16", resulting in 4000 rpm's. My usual comfort level for the Moki 250 is around 3800: 4000 is a little high but max throttle will seldom be used and for short durations.
Ran some BVM O ring oil into the mains and main fill valve.
Noticed one elevator had some slop while the receiver was on: the 4/40 bolt going through the tapped metal servo arm was loose.
Some slop in the aileron servo tray was fixed with some 1/64" thick ply pushed between the rubber/brass grommets and the servo tray.
Engine test (cont):
Ended up with the low and high needle settings at 1.7 each (same as my corsair). Had the low end around 1 turn open and the engine almost stops when full throttle applied quickly. Max rpm's attained was 3700 so I rotated the blades about a 1/16", resulting in 4000 rpm's. My usual comfort level for the Moki 250 is around 3800: 4000 is a little high but max throttle will seldom be used and for short durations.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-26-2015 at 11:40 AM.
#359
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Engine:
Engine exhaust ring and outlet pipes covered with exhaust wrap. Some spark plug boot insulators cut and used in the exhaust ring to outlet pipes transition. Besides keeping heat out of the cowl, the heat wrap protects the ignition wires in case they touch the exhaust ring.
Already for the next flyin.
Engine exhaust ring and outlet pipes covered with exhaust wrap. Some spark plug boot insulators cut and used in the exhaust ring to outlet pipes transition. Besides keeping heat out of the cowl, the heat wrap protects the ignition wires in case they touch the exhaust ring.
Already for the next flyin.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-26-2015 at 02:31 PM.
#360
My Feedback: (221)
Engine:
Engine exhaust ring and outlet pipes covered with exhaust wrap. Some spark plug boot insulators cut and used in the exhaust ring to outlet pipes transition. Besides keeping heat out of the cowl, the heat wrap protects the ignition wires in case they touch the exhaust ring.
Already for the next flyin.
Engine exhaust ring and outlet pipes covered with exhaust wrap. Some spark plug boot insulators cut and used in the exhaust ring to outlet pipes transition. Besides keeping heat out of the cowl, the heat wrap protects the ignition wires in case they touch the exhaust ring.
Already for the next flyin.
#362
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: pine bluffs,
WY
Posts: 485
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
p 47
Hi sam; i have the same bad habbit.every time i get a set of mr.z's plane they are never quite big enough,i like his a-1 so much i built 4 of them.first his 100'' then 2 120'' and a 150''.that was 8 years of building.all i have to say is have fun pardner. Geo.
Last edited by dadragon; 05-27-2015 at 07:31 AM.
#364
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
PM:
Will be taking the P-47, along with the F4U and F9F to Indiana warbird campaign over labor day weekend.
Been flying the new B-25 this season so this will be the first time out, this season, for the moki's.
Engine:
RPM's were climbing last season and now she is turning the 4 blade 30" prop at 4400 rpm's: Way too high.
As with the Corsair, some tic marks were put on the hub and prop and rotated each blade about 1/16".
I wanted around 3600 and, lucked out, getting exactly 3600 rpm's.
The new hanger9 tach is nice: it goes to 9 blades (should be enough!).
Will be taking the P-47, along with the F4U and F9F to Indiana warbird campaign over labor day weekend.
Been flying the new B-25 this season so this will be the first time out, this season, for the moki's.
Engine:
RPM's were climbing last season and now she is turning the 4 blade 30" prop at 4400 rpm's: Way too high.
As with the Corsair, some tic marks were put on the hub and prop and rotated each blade about 1/16".
I wanted around 3600 and, lucked out, getting exactly 3600 rpm's.
The new hanger9 tach is nice: it goes to 9 blades (should be enough!).
#365
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Hanger rash prevention:
Wing bags for the wing (obviously!).
Aluminum insulation and black felt interior.
Besides keeping the ends from getting dented, the bags will hold the flaps/ailerons in an upright position as the digital servos allows them to droop, which allowed them to snag things.
Wing bags for the wing (obviously!).
Aluminum insulation and black felt interior.
Besides keeping the ends from getting dented, the bags will hold the flaps/ailerons in an upright position as the digital servos allows them to droop, which allowed them to snag things.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-29-2015 at 08:52 AM.
#366
My Feedback: (49)
Hanger rash prevention:
Wing bags for the wing (obviously!).
Aluminum insulation and black felt interior.
Besides keeping the ends from getting dented, the bags will hold the flaps/ailerons in an upright position as the digital servos allows them to droop, which allowed them to snag things.
Wing bags for the wing (obviously!).
Aluminum insulation and black felt interior.
Besides keeping the ends from getting dented, the bags will hold the flaps/ailerons in an upright position as the digital servos allows them to droop, which allowed them to snag things.
Where did You acquire your Aluminum insulation and black felt interior?
What was the approximate cost and did U fasten the felt to the Insulation?
If so how? What about the 50 Cals sticking out of the leading edge.
#367
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
HG,
The insulation (4'X25' for $40) is from home depot and the felt ($6 per yard (6' wide) but got it on sale for $3) is from Joanne's fabric store.
Next to the insulation is some aluminum tape ($3.57 a roll).
Some general purpose 3M spray adhesive ($5.50) sprayed on just the aluminum insulation and then stick the felt to it. OK if some wrinkles in felt, inside and still functional in protecting the wings).
Also, made protectors for the horizontal and vertical stab.
I make my guns screw on so they are removed during transit.
If your guns are permanent, guessing you could make the bags larger or make the front the open end.
The P-47 is probably the only one to worry about guns as other warbird guns are usually recessed or near so.
The insulation (4'X25' for $40) is from home depot and the felt ($6 per yard (6' wide) but got it on sale for $3) is from Joanne's fabric store.
Next to the insulation is some aluminum tape ($3.57 a roll).
Some general purpose 3M spray adhesive ($5.50) sprayed on just the aluminum insulation and then stick the felt to it. OK if some wrinkles in felt, inside and still functional in protecting the wings).
Also, made protectors for the horizontal and vertical stab.
I make my guns screw on so they are removed during transit.
If your guns are permanent, guessing you could make the bags larger or make the front the open end.
The P-47 is probably the only one to worry about guns as other warbird guns are usually recessed or near so.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-29-2015 at 02:33 PM.
#368
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Video:
take off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Bgp...ature=youtu.be
low pass:
Got the prop pitch exactly where I want it for the perfect sound at full throttle. Ground rpm's is 3650.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u1R...ature=youtu.be
4 point roll:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AFX...ature=youtu.be
Landing:
Didn't know a pilot was on the far edge of the field so I had to do a little right turn.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNfe...ature=youtu.be
Dead stick again:
This is the first time out since it was fixed last season.
I got 5 flights and the engine died, unfortunately, on a large turn going away in the far corner. She came down several hundred feet away.
Fortunately, the AMA site is all grass but, at that distance, it was pure luck that she landed on her belly.
The front got beat up pretty good. The foam filled belly pan took a lot of the force. The two pylons also took a lot of the force so no damage to the wing. Guessing about a week to fix her up.
The engine appears OK as she turns over although 4 push rods are gone. Appears the 4 carbon blades, the cowl and the 1/4" thick fire wall and 1/4" thick sub fire wall saved her.
Not happy that this is the 3rd engine problem, the 1st being a rebuilt carb needed and the 2nd from the main shaft moving 1/16" off center.
She landing at the bottom of a small hill so I couldn't see her land but I saw a large object fly in the air and figured it was the engine. Not seeing the landing, I figured she was toast, trying to land from that distance. Getting to the crash site, the first thing I checked was the engine and was relieved and happy that the engine looked OK. I was also happy to see fuse and wing intact and laying on the ground.
I was really having a good time with her, too. The engine was sounding great and she was handling great.
The old moki in the F4U has had no problems yet the new one has been a bummer. One good thing about building the plane is, if it was the arf version, I think it would have been toast.
Got back home, late Saturday night so I'll do some more analysis in the morning.
take off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Bgp...ature=youtu.be
low pass:
Got the prop pitch exactly where I want it for the perfect sound at full throttle. Ground rpm's is 3650.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u1R...ature=youtu.be
4 point roll:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AFX...ature=youtu.be
Landing:
Didn't know a pilot was on the far edge of the field so I had to do a little right turn.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNfe...ature=youtu.be
Dead stick again:
This is the first time out since it was fixed last season.
I got 5 flights and the engine died, unfortunately, on a large turn going away in the far corner. She came down several hundred feet away.
Fortunately, the AMA site is all grass but, at that distance, it was pure luck that she landed on her belly.
The front got beat up pretty good. The foam filled belly pan took a lot of the force. The two pylons also took a lot of the force so no damage to the wing. Guessing about a week to fix her up.
The engine appears OK as she turns over although 4 push rods are gone. Appears the 4 carbon blades, the cowl and the 1/4" thick fire wall and 1/4" thick sub fire wall saved her.
Not happy that this is the 3rd engine problem, the 1st being a rebuilt carb needed and the 2nd from the main shaft moving 1/16" off center.
She landing at the bottom of a small hill so I couldn't see her land but I saw a large object fly in the air and figured it was the engine. Not seeing the landing, I figured she was toast, trying to land from that distance. Getting to the crash site, the first thing I checked was the engine and was relieved and happy that the engine looked OK. I was also happy to see fuse and wing intact and laying on the ground.
I was really having a good time with her, too. The engine was sounding great and she was handling great.
The old moki in the F4U has had no problems yet the new one has been a bummer. One good thing about building the plane is, if it was the arf version, I think it would have been toast.
Got back home, late Saturday night so I'll do some more analysis in the morning.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-05-2015 at 09:11 PM.
#369
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Dead stick.
Engine:
The 2 fire walls (total 1" thick) appears to have protected the ignition, wires and engine. With the exception of 4 push rods missing, she looks in pretty good shape. I'll find out when I send her in for repair!
Fire wall repair:
The bottom of the two fire walls were broken off so new ones will be fabricated.
The sub fire wall was easy to remove as only 12 bolts were removed to separate it from the removable fire wall.
The removable fire wall took a lot longer to get all the servos, ignition and, especially the engine box off the fire wall. The heat gun and lots of banging with old wood chisels were used to remove the box from the fire wall after all the screws were removed.
Some new 1/2" thick plywood from rockler wood working store for the new fire walls. Should be able to re-use the engine box by sanding down the back of it.
Engine:
The 2 fire walls (total 1" thick) appears to have protected the ignition, wires and engine. With the exception of 4 push rods missing, she looks in pretty good shape. I'll find out when I send her in for repair!
Fire wall repair:
The bottom of the two fire walls were broken off so new ones will be fabricated.
The sub fire wall was easy to remove as only 12 bolts were removed to separate it from the removable fire wall.
The removable fire wall took a lot longer to get all the servos, ignition and, especially the engine box off the fire wall. The heat gun and lots of banging with old wood chisels were used to remove the box from the fire wall after all the screws were removed.
Some new 1/2" thick plywood from rockler wood working store for the new fire walls. Should be able to re-use the engine box by sanding down the back of it.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-06-2015 at 05:05 PM.
#371
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Yo Kirk,
Yep, the engine was turning the perfect rpm's. bummer.
============
Fuse repair (cont)
Got a few things done on labor day.
Fire wall.
New removable fire wall cut using the old one as a template. Used a hand oscillating sander to clean up the engine box. Re-drilled holes along the end for better adhesion. Used Hysol the last time, explaining why it was so hard to remove the box from the fire wall.
Yep, the engine was turning the perfect rpm's. bummer.
============
Fuse repair (cont)
Got a few things done on labor day.
Fire wall.
New removable fire wall cut using the old one as a template. Used a hand oscillating sander to clean up the engine box. Re-drilled holes along the end for better adhesion. Used Hysol the last time, explaining why it was so hard to remove the box from the fire wall.
#372
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Fuse repair (cont)
Turned the fuse on her back to assess the damage.
Service tray removed.
The fire wall and removable fire wall are new.
F-3 is cracked at the wing so it will be re-glued and another piece of ply will be sistered to it. A paper template was made for the sister ply.
Once F-3 and the fire wall are epoxied in place, the spruce stringers will be added.
I collected every piece of balsa at the crash site as one never knows what is usable plus it can be used for a template.
Heading to Elkhart in the morning so I'll start on this after I get back.
Turned the fuse on her back to assess the damage.
Service tray removed.
The fire wall and removable fire wall are new.
F-3 is cracked at the wing so it will be re-glued and another piece of ply will be sistered to it. A paper template was made for the sister ply.
Once F-3 and the fire wall are epoxied in place, the spruce stringers will be added.
I collected every piece of balsa at the crash site as one never knows what is usable plus it can be used for a template.
Heading to Elkhart in the morning so I'll start on this after I get back.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-10-2015 at 12:44 PM.
#373
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Fuse repair (cont)
There were 4 aircraft ply's running from the wing to the fire wall that were broken off. The 4 pieces were cleaned up removing all the old glue and re-attached to their respective positions. A small tack hammer was needed to mesh the broken ends together, insuring all four ends were on the same plane (math plane).
The balsa crutch was removed from that area and new hardwood replaced them for some extra strength along the ply's.
The large 1/4" thick sister ply over former F-3 needed to be cut in half to get a proper fit and also easily sister it to F-3.
Lots of epoxy was used to secure all the parts.
There were 4 aircraft ply's running from the wing to the fire wall that were broken off. The 4 pieces were cleaned up removing all the old glue and re-attached to their respective positions. A small tack hammer was needed to mesh the broken ends together, insuring all four ends were on the same plane (math plane).
The balsa crutch was removed from that area and new hardwood replaced them for some extra strength along the ply's.
The large 1/4" thick sister ply over former F-3 needed to be cut in half to get a proper fit and also easily sister it to F-3.
Lots of epoxy was used to secure all the parts.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-15-2015 at 08:06 AM.
#374
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Fuse repair (cont)
Fixed fire wall:
Cut all the stringer notches and dry fitted the FFW to the fuse.
Clamped the new FFW and removable fire wall to the old removable fire wall to drill all the holes needed.
Epoxied the blind nuts to the FFW.
Epoxied the FFW to the fuse.
Fixed fire wall:
Cut all the stringer notches and dry fitted the FFW to the fuse.
Clamped the new FFW and removable fire wall to the old removable fire wall to drill all the holes needed.
Epoxied the blind nuts to the FFW.
Epoxied the FFW to the fuse.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-15-2015 at 02:17 PM.
#375
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (43)
Fuse repair (cont)
Epoxied the spruce stringers to the formers.
Added some hardwood to re-enforce the breaks points along the ply.
Cut away all the damaged balsa sheeting back to straight edges.
Also, using a heat gun, removed the aluminum tape back to the next rivet/panel line.
Epoxied some 1/8" thick balsa sheeting to one side of the fuse.
Epoxied the spruce stringers to the formers.
Added some hardwood to re-enforce the breaks points along the ply.
Cut away all the damaged balsa sheeting back to straight edges.
Also, using a heat gun, removed the aluminum tape back to the next rivet/panel line.
Epoxied some 1/8" thick balsa sheeting to one side of the fuse.
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-16-2015 at 07:02 AM.