Ziroli p-47 92" blown up to 110"
06-05-2016, 03:04 PM
#402
Cowl,
Had to remove the engine from the removable fire wall so I could, properly, get all the mounting studs in alignment with the cowl.
After getting the cowl properly mounted to the fire wall, some CF cloth was rolled (and taped to hold its shape) and glued (zap finishing resin) to the cowl to strengthen it along the back.
Had to remove the engine from the removable fire wall so I could, properly, get all the mounting studs in alignment with the cowl.
After getting the cowl properly mounted to the fire wall, some CF cloth was rolled (and taped to hold its shape) and glued (zap finishing resin) to the cowl to strengthen it along the back.
06-27-2016, 09:56 AM
#403
PM.
Only got 2 flights at Windy city warbird flyin.
Exhaust:
The bottom, home made exhaust pipes fell off. I bought all new 3/4" copper water piping and silver soldered them together.
Need a nice short blue flame as my first solder joint produced a lot of carbon deposit since I had a yellow flame from too much mapp gas.
MMMM: not sure why the pictures are not properly uploading!!
[ATTACH]2169913[/IMG][ATTACH]2169914[/IMG][ATTACH]2169915[/IMG][ATTACH]2169916[/IMG]
Prop:
With the exhaust vibrating off, I figured the prop must still be out of balance. I found out that each blade has the weight on the inside end. I had two 152's and two 159's and they were not opposite of each other. After proper re arrangement, the prop is now balanced.
[ATTACH]2169917[/IMG]
Next is an air leak which I think is in one of the inner doors and make a new door for the main strut.
Only got 2 flights at Windy city warbird flyin.
Exhaust:
The bottom, home made exhaust pipes fell off. I bought all new 3/4" copper water piping and silver soldered them together.
Need a nice short blue flame as my first solder joint produced a lot of carbon deposit since I had a yellow flame from too much mapp gas.
MMMM: not sure why the pictures are not properly uploading!!
[ATTACH]2169913[/IMG][ATTACH]2169914[/IMG][ATTACH]2169915[/IMG][ATTACH]2169916[/IMG]
Prop:
With the exhaust vibrating off, I figured the prop must still be out of balance. I found out that each blade has the weight on the inside end. I had two 152's and two 159's and they were not opposite of each other. After proper re arrangement, the prop is now balanced.
[ATTACH]2169917[/IMG]
Next is an air leak which I think is in one of the inner doors and make a new door for the main strut.
Last edited by samparfitt; 06-27-2016 at 10:04 AM.
06-27-2016, 12:54 PM
#404
[QUOTE=samparfitt;12228658]PM.
Only got 2 flights at Windy city warbird flyin.
Hey Sam: U meet a guy, Matt Teresinski there with the same P-47 Zahroli 92" but in the camo scheme of Gabby Francis Gabby Gabreski? I Think he would also be flying a highly Detailed F4U, P-51 and Zero.
Only got 2 flights at Windy city warbird flyin.
Hey Sam: U meet a guy, Matt Teresinski there with the same P-47 Zahroli 92" but in the camo scheme of Gabby Francis Gabby Gabreski? I Think he would also be flying a highly Detailed F4U, P-51 and Zero.
06-29-2016, 01:41 PM
#406
HG,
Yes, Matt and his wife were at the flyin. He does nice work on building and also is a good pilot.
============
PM,
The inner door UP air cylinders are leaking at the ends where the aluminum wraps around the brass ends, probably due to the belly landing.
I replaced them with robart 165M 1.5" throw air cylinders. They must have just started making these. Eric of Robart brought me two of them the next day at the flyin.
[ATTACH]2170449[/IMG]
Yes, Matt and his wife were at the flyin. He does nice work on building and also is a good pilot.
============
PM,
The inner door UP air cylinders are leaking at the ends where the aluminum wraps around the brass ends, probably due to the belly landing.
I replaced them with robart 165M 1.5" throw air cylinders. They must have just started making these. Eric of Robart brought me two of them the next day at the flyin.
[ATTACH]2170449[/IMG]
Last edited by samparfitt; 07-05-2016 at 08:29 AM.
06-29-2016, 01:43 PM
#407
Hounddog,
Yes, Matt and his wife were at the flyin. He does nice work on building and also is a good pilot.
============
PM,
The inner door UP air cylinders are leaking at the ends where the aluminum wraps around the brass ends, probably due to the belly landing.
I replaced them with robart 165M 1.5" throw air cylinders. They must have just started making these. Eric of Robart brought me two of them the next day at the flyin.
[ATTACH]2171267[/IMG]
Yes, Matt and his wife were at the flyin. He does nice work on building and also is a good pilot.
============
PM,
The inner door UP air cylinders are leaking at the ends where the aluminum wraps around the brass ends, probably due to the belly landing.
I replaced them with robart 165M 1.5" throw air cylinders. They must have just started making these. Eric of Robart brought me two of them the next day at the flyin.
[ATTACH]2171267[/IMG]
Last edited by samparfitt; 07-06-2016 at 03:15 AM.
07-01-2016, 05:43 AM
#408
My Feedback: (43)
Sam,
Have you run the engine with the silver soldered exhaust pipes? I have found that glow engines will melt that solder, even when the joint was 8-9" away from the exhaust port in a glow .80 four stroke.
If it does, get some silver hard solder or copper brazing rods. Your little torch will still do the job, but the brazing temp is well over 1000 degrees F. Welding and Refrigeration/HVAC supply houses should carry it.
Have you run the engine with the silver soldered exhaust pipes? I have found that glow engines will melt that solder, even when the joint was 8-9" away from the exhaust port in a glow .80 four stroke.
If it does, get some silver hard solder or copper brazing rods. Your little torch will still do the job, but the brazing temp is well over 1000 degrees F. Welding and Refrigeration/HVAC supply houses should carry it.
07-01-2016, 06:16 AM
#409
Jeff,
I've silver soldered the water pipe but have not posted any pictures until this web site fixes posting pictures. I'm going to a flyin in today so it'll get tested this week end. I used the map gas/oxygen to solder it.
I'm thinking the solder won't melt as the moki's don't run as hot as the single piston gas engines.
Sam
I've silver soldered the water pipe but have not posted any pictures until this web site fixes posting pictures. I'm going to a flyin in today so it'll get tested this week end. I used the map gas/oxygen to solder it.
I'm thinking the solder won't melt as the moki's don't run as hot as the single piston gas engines.
Sam
12-11-2016, 05:10 AM
#412
Thanks for the info, Greg as I had no idea. By the time I add full cockpits, sliding canopies, etc, mine are never light. Presently, I have a 92" about 1/2 way built (another thread) and it's been sitting there on the shelf for a year, now.
sam
sam
12-22-2016, 02:28 PM
#419
My Feedback: (4)
Hello,
I'm new to this thread and I'm currently building a Ziroli 92" P-47. It's the fiberglass fuselage version.Im powering it with the Quadra 75 that was originally sold with the kit from Ziroli. Looking forward to sharing ideas with you guys.
Merry Christmas,Barzini
I'm new to this thread and I'm currently building a Ziroli 92" P-47. It's the fiberglass fuselage version.Im powering it with the Quadra 75 that was originally sold with the kit from Ziroli. Looking forward to sharing ideas with you guys.
Merry Christmas,Barzini
09-08-2017, 08:49 AM
#420
Last spring, I thought I'd used the JR data checker and found two of the satellite receivers were getting '999' hits so I grounded her and put her back in the hanger.
The week before Indiana warbird campaign, I moved the satellites around and got all zeros on all readings, save 21 on one satellite. Wanting to fly when no one else was flying, I managed to get two flights and both went well. I'm guessing the engine out's that occurred the previous seasons were due to too many satellite hits (and possible fails) and not engine dead sticks.
On future problems, I need to remember to use the data checker as part of my 'problem analysis'.
The week before Indiana warbird campaign, I moved the satellites around and got all zeros on all readings, save 21 on one satellite. Wanting to fly when no one else was flying, I managed to get two flights and both went well. I'm guessing the engine out's that occurred the previous seasons were due to too many satellite hits (and possible fails) and not engine dead sticks.
On future problems, I need to remember to use the data checker as part of my 'problem analysis'.
09-08-2017, 08:53 AM
#421
Barzini,
I also have a 92" build thread on the P-47 that maybe more 'in line' with your build.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...-thread-6.html
I also have a 92" build thread on the P-47 that maybe more 'in line' with your build.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...-thread-6.html
08-21-2019, 11:41 AM
#422
PM for the new year.
Assembly stages.
Plane is assembled 'right side up' as 1) too bulky to turn over by oneself and 2) prevents hanger rash.
Fuse is on it's own wooden dolly.
Four bolts secure the fuse to the dolly.
Wing sits on stool so the gear can be lowered, manually, with a hand pump.
wing is slid under the fuse, two 6" square blocks of wood are put under the main wheels to raise wing into fuse wing saddle, wires/air lines connected, surfaces checked via the transmitter and then 4 bolts used to secure wing to fuse.
Wing protectors.
Tail feather protectors.
Stands to hold fuse.
4 blade, adjustable prop with 3 spare blades.
One bolt secures prop to engine with 5 stud hub.
Guns screw in and have LED's in barrels.
Engine PM: oil, spark plug remover, a couple spare push rods.
Fuse dolly. Has wheels and holes to secure in trailer.
Inner doors opened manually and then manual pump to lower gear.
Most wires via an easy connect but 7 robart air connects are needed.
Moving surfaces checked before bolting wing to fuse.
Gear checked while on stand.
Plus tail wheel and doors.
Two screws secure belly pan to fuse.
Engine test video: 880/3400 rpms.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd7i4J7fLbc&feature=youtu.be
A few more I forgot:
Front mains on blocks.
Back of wing dropped to foam for wire/air line connections
All ready for Muncie's Indiana's warbird campaign.
Ready to fly:
Assembly stages.
Plane is assembled 'right side up' as 1) too bulky to turn over by oneself and 2) prevents hanger rash.
Fuse is on it's own wooden dolly.
Four bolts secure the fuse to the dolly.
Wing sits on stool so the gear can be lowered, manually, with a hand pump.
wing is slid under the fuse, two 6" square blocks of wood are put under the main wheels to raise wing into fuse wing saddle, wires/air lines connected, surfaces checked via the transmitter and then 4 bolts used to secure wing to fuse.
Wing protectors.
Tail feather protectors.
Stands to hold fuse.
4 blade, adjustable prop with 3 spare blades.
One bolt secures prop to engine with 5 stud hub.
Guns screw in and have LED's in barrels.
Engine PM: oil, spark plug remover, a couple spare push rods.
Fuse dolly. Has wheels and holes to secure in trailer.
Inner doors opened manually and then manual pump to lower gear.
Most wires via an easy connect but 7 robart air connects are needed.
Moving surfaces checked before bolting wing to fuse.
Gear checked while on stand.
Plus tail wheel and doors.
Two screws secure belly pan to fuse.
Engine test video: 880/3400 rpms.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd7i4J7fLbc&feature=youtu.be
A few more I forgot:
Front mains on blocks.
Back of wing dropped to foam for wire/air line connections
All ready for Muncie's Indiana's warbird campaign.
Ready to fly:
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-21-2019 at 01:21 PM.
