Top Flite Giant Zero 86" Span.
06-17-2014, 06:56 PM
#76
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It has a battery input ( I use a 3s 2200MAh lipo) a lead to the brushed 550 motor (starter) and a lead to your rcvr. You put the channel on a momentary switch and it signals the starter unit to send a 1.5 second pulse to the starter motor. when I first got it I was being cheap (1 1/2 years ago) and tried to rig a servo to a power switch but that failed miserably when the switch locked (burned) in the connected state and I couldn't disengage it... $30 is worth the switch made for this setup!
You mentioned putting the Starter Channel on a 'Momentary Switch?', what Radio are you using to give me an idea of what switch you are using or type you are refering to!
Thanks.
06-18-2014, 06:28 AM
#77
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I use Futaba 14SG... I has a switch on the upper right hand corner that is a momentary switch (not a two or three position switch like the others). it springs back into the off position when you let go of it. On the Airtronics SD10Gl, they have buttons on the top that do the same thing. The Airtronics RDS8000 has a button called throttle cut but I don't think you can assign it independently to a channel. If you have a programmable radio with a trainer switch, that would work too.
06-20-2014, 06:45 AM
#79
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Hi Sparky,
Regular epoxy is not good enough to hold that cowl with the high vibration surrounding. I doubt that silicone will be better by much.
The best glue I used with no failure yet is Hysol epoxy. It's expensive but worth it for any high stress wood to fiberglass application.
I also used Gorilla glue in the past with mixed results. Make sure you lightly sand the cowl and wipe it with acetone first.
By the way, what is the cowl diameter and length for the TF Zero. I'm thinking of squeezing a DA 85 into one.
Regular epoxy is not good enough to hold that cowl with the high vibration surrounding. I doubt that silicone will be better by much.
The best glue I used with no failure yet is Hysol epoxy. It's expensive but worth it for any high stress wood to fiberglass application.
I also used Gorilla glue in the past with mixed results. Make sure you lightly sand the cowl and wipe it with acetone first.
By the way, what is the cowl diameter and length for the TF Zero. I'm thinking of squeezing a DA 85 into one.
06-20-2014, 07:26 AM
#80
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I went with T88 and WestSystems 410 microlight Fairing Filler. should be good. don't know why I didn't use it before.
The cowl length from firewall to prop hub is ~ 6 3/4 inches. diameter won't matter since the cylinder from a dle55ra already sticks out a 1/2 inch but I have some pics in an earlier post with a ruler... 9 inches at the back (firewall mount) and about 8 1/2 where the cylinder would be.
The cowl length from firewall to prop hub is ~ 6 3/4 inches. diameter won't matter since the cylinder from a dle55ra already sticks out a 1/2 inch but I have some pics in an earlier post with a ruler... 9 inches at the back (firewall mount) and about 8 1/2 where the cylinder would be.
06-20-2014, 05:31 PM
#81
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Great day flyin at the Pomona Valley Model Air Club - Southern California Scale Masters event today... lots o amazing planes... My Zero did exceedingly well as did my FW190... The only crash was a guy with a big Hangar 9 razorback Jugg that kinda tore up on final and ripped the gear out. Sorry, Sean. Looked great in the air! My buddy, Ethan, flew his TF GS P47 (Tarheel Hal) very well and it even has an electric starter on his DLE like my planes...
Tomorrows gonna be another full day!
Tomorrows gonna be another full day!
06-22-2014, 06:45 PM
#82
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Sparky
what prop are you slinging. I can't seem to find a 22 or 23 that's black like yours and looks authentic.
also, did you end up with any wt in the nose? I'm hoping with the 55, starter, starter battery, ignition, and twin RX batteries I won't have to add any.
thanks in advance
casey
what prop are you slinging. I can't seem to find a 22 or 23 that's black like yours and looks authentic.
also, did you end up with any wt in the nose? I'm hoping with the 55, starter, starter battery, ignition, and twin RX batteries I won't have to add any.
thanks in advance
casey
Last edited by st_dysan; 06-22-2014 at 06:48 PM.
06-23-2014, 12:50 PM
#83
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St. Dysan... I get Xoar Sword 22X10 props from Valley View RC (www.valleyviewrc.com) pre-drilled for my DLE's (no charge for that). I always buy an extra just in case...
no added weight and it balances perfect with the starter... although I have the ignition for the DLE on the plate that's fitted to the engine standoffs with zip ties, the ignition battery is mounted on the plate immediately forward the tail feather servos below the cockpit (there's a cool plate there ready for Velcro - so I have two 2S 2200 MAh batteries and the rcvr there). The starter motor switch is where the air retract valve would mount, and I have Robart electric gear controller double stick taped to the wing itself. The 3S 2200 MAh battery is mounted on top of the fuel cell and velcro'd below the holes the wing slides into.
no added weight and it balances perfect with the starter... although I have the ignition for the DLE on the plate that's fitted to the engine standoffs with zip ties, the ignition battery is mounted on the plate immediately forward the tail feather servos below the cockpit (there's a cool plate there ready for Velcro - so I have two 2S 2200 MAh batteries and the rcvr there). The starter motor switch is where the air retract valve would mount, and I have Robart electric gear controller double stick taped to the wing itself. The 3S 2200 MAh battery is mounted on top of the fuel cell and velcro'd below the holes the wing slides into.
06-24-2014, 04:45 AM
#86
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http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...FZRj7AodMTEAYg
06-24-2014, 01:32 PM
#87
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Hey, just an fyi for those that will be buying the tank drop system. If you use a clevis on the rod which locks the tank into place beware that you put a lock nut there... running the engine will actually back the rod out far enough that the tank won't disengage from the wing... and now I don't know how to dismantle the assembly from the wing as the nylon bolts are under the tank.. doh!!!
06-27-2014, 06:23 AM
#90
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nope... I probably should have but I was guessing my way through it... I used a fine tip sharpie and a straight edge for the lines... then masking stop in front of the horizontal lines. I sprayed half testers enamel and half Denatured alcohol through a $9 airbrush with about 30lbs of air.
A buddy of mine, Tim Cardin, says that I can probably wipe it off with mineral spirits if I want to try again. I don't know yet... I'm gonna go Sunday and see how it looks in the air first.
A buddy of mine, Tim Cardin, says that I can probably wipe it off with mineral spirits if I want to try again. I don't know yet... I'm gonna go Sunday and see how it looks in the air first.
06-27-2014, 05:48 PM
#91
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Sparky
if you haven't coated it yet it should come right off. Once your happy with it I would Clead-coat it with some flat coat to make sure it's fuel proof.
This is will be my first attempt to airbrush monocoat, I've only done fiberglass so I was glad to see yours. I did ask the question a page or two back and received a nice response.
My my big box came yesterday and has been unpacked. All components had arrived previously so it's everything is sitting waiting on me to get back from my cruise in about 10 days. I can't wait to start the build. I'm also excited to try the EME starter, it will be my first time using one. Thanks for step by step above.
Ill post some pics of the build.
Case
if you haven't coated it yet it should come right off. Once your happy with it I would Clead-coat it with some flat coat to make sure it's fuel proof.
This is will be my first attempt to airbrush monocoat, I've only done fiberglass so I was glad to see yours. I did ask the question a page or two back and received a nice response.
My my big box came yesterday and has been unpacked. All components had arrived previously so it's everything is sitting waiting on me to get back from my cruise in about 10 days. I can't wait to start the build. I'm also excited to try the EME starter, it will be my first time using one. Thanks for step by step above.
Ill post some pics of the build.
Case
06-27-2014, 07:44 PM
#92
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Sparky
if you haven't coated it yet it should come right off. Once your happy with it I would Clead-coat it with some flat coat to make sure it's fuel proof.
This is will be my first attempt to airbrush monocoat, I've only done fiberglass so I was glad to see yours. I did ask the question a page or two back and received a nice response.
My my big box came yesterday and has been unpacked. All components had arrived previously so it's everything is sitting waiting on me to get back from my cruise in about 10 days. I can't wait to start the build. I'm also excited to try the EME starter, it will be my first time using one. Thanks for step by step above.
Ill post some pics of the build.
Case
if you haven't coated it yet it should come right off. Once your happy with it I would Clead-coat it with some flat coat to make sure it's fuel proof.
This is will be my first attempt to airbrush monocoat, I've only done fiberglass so I was glad to see yours. I did ask the question a page or two back and received a nice response.
My my big box came yesterday and has been unpacked. All components had arrived previously so it's everything is sitting waiting on me to get back from my cruise in about 10 days. I can't wait to start the build. I'm also excited to try the EME starter, it will be my first time using one. Thanks for step by step above.
Ill post some pics of the build.
Case
FYI>>> make sure you coat the Sprague gear (the one way bearing gear) with grease... Mike from MileHighRC says that will help prevent chipped gear teeth... haha.. .I've been using those starters for over a year and never knew.. I'm using lithium grease (that's what I got)
06-29-2014, 05:51 PM
#93
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Went flyin today and had 3 great flights but the last landing was weird... I greased the landing but I couldn't track, scratched the wingtip on a gentle ground loop... so I tried to taxi back and I notice the tail wheel isn't extended... I call "pilot on the runway", perform the walk of shame onto the runway, and walk my zero back to the pits... Turns out the plunger assembly on the tail wheel failed. I haven't had a rough landing yet.. I wonder why it broke...
06-29-2014, 08:18 PM
#97
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Funny, I just had the same part break in the same place on an Aeroworks P51 with the Robart tailwheel. When I pulled the part off of another Robart tailwheel I had waiting on another project I was amazed at how thin the metal is in this area. This is a design change from some of the older Robart gear I have and it's pretty obvious to me that none of them are going to last long.
06-30-2014, 06:09 AM
#98
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Called Robart and Eric in Customer Service is sending the part out today under warranty... thanks guys!
He mentioned that the manufacturing process for heat treating could be variable since they're working on thousands of pieces at a time... some may get harder than others... Great customer service!!! Thanks Robart!
He mentioned that the manufacturing process for heat treating could be variable since they're working on thousands of pieces at a time... some may get harder than others... Great customer service!!! Thanks Robart!
06-30-2014, 07:55 AM
#99
I've got mine coming. This will be three Zekes in our club.
A friend of mine pointed this baby out to me. Looks awesome! Who's going to see how the performance is? Variable pitch and replaceable blades. Available on Magnum R/C.
A friend of mine pointed this baby out to me. Looks awesome! Who's going to see how the performance is? Variable pitch and replaceable blades. Available on Magnum R/C.
