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Top Flite Giant Zero 86" Span.

Old 12-10-2014, 09:07 AM
  #151  
cairoman
 
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Gentlemen,

Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.

Chris


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Old 12-10-2014, 10:30 AM
  #152  
JAYNC
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Just looked in mine. Looks like they are just held in by 4 m5 bolts per side.
Old 12-10-2014, 11:33 AM
  #153  
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Yes, but once you start rotating them, they rotate freely, which can only mean one thing: lock nuts on the other side, which is covered with shapen balsa block and monokoted! I would like to know, if anyone has removed these, before I start balsa bashing!

Chris

Last edited by cairoman; 12-10-2014 at 11:43 AM.
Old 12-10-2014, 12:08 PM
  #154  
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Maybe call hobby services and ask if they are removable and maybe they will send you a new fuselage. I put a dle 85 in my p47 and had to put 8oz in the tail. Not too bad if you can't get the weight out. Might have to cut the bolt heads off.
Old 12-10-2014, 12:11 PM
  #155  
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Thanks JAYNC! Much appreciated, your comments.

Chris
Old 12-10-2014, 02:32 PM
  #156  
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No problem. Hope it works out for you.
Old 12-11-2014, 05:58 AM
  #157  
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Will the EME60 twin fit the cowl? Without major cuts?
Old 12-15-2014, 10:32 PM
  #158  
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I may be barking up the wrong tree (or thread) but was wondering if any lurkers here are considering electrifying the TF Zero. It's been done successfully to the H9 60CC Corsair with a Rimfire 65CC motor and 12s power, and of course loads of 30-50CC sized warbirds now. Would not think it would be out of line on this model either. anyhow, just researching my next warbird build, was seriously considering going electric and sound system for a bigger warbird (I'm mostly electric with turbine jets too that's why I'm more comfortable with e power but I do note the ease and low cost of gas power too).

Thanks guys, looks like you are all having fun with the Zeke!
Old 12-16-2014, 06:12 AM
  #159  
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Hi Eddie,

I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.

Thanks,
Dan



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Old 12-16-2014, 07:53 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by cairoman
Gentlemen,

Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.

Chris


I like a twin also,but I think the cowl is to small without major cutting.Cairoman have you tried a twin?
Old 12-16-2014, 08:25 AM
  #161  
dasintex
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Originally Posted by danlandis
Hi Eddie,

I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.

Thanks,
Dan




What did you do to the surface, looks like you scuffed it up a little bit? Looks good
Old 12-16-2014, 08:46 AM
  #162  
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No, But I have fitted a Saito FA 325, 5Cyl Radial. I had to modify the cowl, to accomodate the protrusions of two of the 5 cylinders and make a good pasage for cooling air around the engine. It is workable,, but you need a good full day's work to make things happen.

I will post photos, as soon as they become available.

Chris
Old 12-18-2014, 09:20 AM
  #163  
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I scuffed it with 0000 steel wool, then put down a layer of flat clear and scuffed it again with 0000 wool and then chalked it and then put another coat of clear over it and scuffed it one more time just to bring it back to a smooth texture.

Thanks!
Old 12-21-2014, 05:35 AM
  #164  
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Dan, looks great! What packs are you using? Any info on watts or amp draw? Ho much is she unloading in flight, and what's your vertical performance like? Well done
Old 12-21-2014, 08:38 AM
  #165  
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Anyone finished assembly using DLE55? How does it balance with the weights that are pre-installed ?
Old 12-21-2014, 10:30 AM
  #166  
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Supposed to balance perfect with that engine. I'm putting a 61 in mine but the added weight shouldn't affect it much. I've found on top flite warbirds that if you balance them nose heavy they actually fly a lot better than level like the manual shows.
Old 12-21-2014, 05:14 PM
  #167  
sparky4lawndart
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+1... except for my TF GS Jug which was peeled and glassed and flies a DA50R, all the other TS GS birds I have fly great with the DLE55RA and lead weight (just an electric starter.. hehehehhehehehehe)..

The last two corsairs that I bashed for a buddy of mine needed 2 1/2 lbs in the nose...

Last edited by sparky4lawndart; 12-21-2014 at 05:17 PM.
Old 12-21-2014, 08:08 PM
  #168  
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Dang frank...that's alot of ballast up front on those gullwings..i hope i don't need any 2.5lbs on the nose of the zeke
Old 12-21-2014, 08:30 PM
  #169  
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I used to fly with a 1lbs fishing weight up there but then I put the starter on it.. it is bueno!
Old 12-22-2014, 10:07 AM
  #170  
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Theres already a lot of lead in the nose of the zero from the factory, supposed to balance really close with a 55-60cc engine.
Old 12-22-2014, 10:30 AM
  #171  
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Should be legit now that the pound of bondo is gone out of tail lol!
Old 12-23-2014, 04:39 AM
  #172  
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Has anyone else found that you have to juggle the cowl, dummy engine and engine former with 5 hands while trying to screw the cowl to the firewall to get everything to come out in good alignment? Then just try to locate those 6 bolts holding the cowl in place with the engine installed?

Also does the dummy engine seem a little bit flimsy to you?

Merry Christmas to y'all.
Old 12-23-2014, 04:58 AM
  #173  
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usually factory dummy radials are crap material because they are just a freebie scale detail that you have to try and make work and look cool....frank tiano makes the best dummy radial i have used to date...very strong and if you do need nose weight, you might not after that because it weighs a little more than the factory one......ok alot more
Old 12-23-2014, 05:46 AM
  #174  
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The F4U Corsair always needs a lot of nose weight. I have about 2lb in mine.
Old 12-23-2014, 06:05 AM
  #175  
JAYNC
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Originally Posted by colesifer3d314
usually factory dummy radials are crap material because they are just a freebie scale detail that you have to try and make work and look cool....frank tiano makes the best dummy radial i have used to date...very strong and if you do need nose weight, you might not after that because it weighs a little more than the factory one......ok alot more
The FTE dummy radials are nice but they are heavy. I built one for my TF P47 and looked great and worked good with a 60cc. Once I switched to an 85cc the cowl mounting blocks started breaking. Guess the weight of the dummy and vibes from the 85 are too much for the blocks. It would probably work good on the zero though. The only thing I'm dreading about the zero build is the cowl and removing and reinstalling it, looks like a pain to line it all up.
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