Top Flite Giant Zero 86" Span.
#151
Gentlemen,
Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.
Chris
Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.
Chris
Last edited by cairoman; 12-10-2014 at 09:11 AM.
#153
Yes, but once you start rotating them, they rotate freely, which can only mean one thing: lock nuts on the other side, which is covered with shapen balsa block and monokoted! I would like to know, if anyone has removed these, before I start balsa bashing!
Chris
Chris
Last edited by cairoman; 12-10-2014 at 11:43 AM.
#154
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Maybe call hobby services and ask if they are removable and maybe they will send you a new fuselage. I put a dle 85 in my p47 and had to put 8oz in the tail. Not too bad if you can't get the weight out. Might have to cut the bolt heads off.
#158
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I may be barking up the wrong tree (or thread) but was wondering if any lurkers here are considering electrifying the TF Zero. It's been done successfully to the H9 60CC Corsair with a Rimfire 65CC motor and 12s power, and of course loads of 30-50CC sized warbirds now. Would not think it would be out of line on this model either. anyhow, just researching my next warbird build, was seriously considering going electric and sound system for a bigger warbird (I'm mostly electric with turbine jets too that's why I'm more comfortable with e power but I do note the ease and low cost of gas power too).
Thanks guys, looks like you are all having fun with the Zeke!
Thanks guys, looks like you are all having fun with the Zeke!
#159
Hi Eddie,
I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.
Thanks,
Dan
I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.
Thanks,
Dan
#160
My Feedback: (13)
Gentlemen,
Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.
Chris
Any ideas on how to get rid of the lead weights on the nose without damaging the airframe? I'm planning to install a heavier engine (either an EME60, autostart, that weighs a good 5lbs, or an ASP400 that weighs 7lbs) and must get rid of the nose weight.
Chris
#161
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Hi Eddie,
I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.
Thanks,
Dan
I have electrified my TF Zero. I used a Rimfire 65CC motor with a Castle 160HV on 12s spinning a Falcon 23x10 Carbon (Gas) Prop. I have electric retracts in it as well as Futaba S.bus servos all the way around. I am adding a few pictures from the build that I have with me. Funny how I can't see to find any pictures of it all done. The Zero flies great with the electric set up and I get about 5-7 min flight time depending on how I am flying.
Thanks,
Dan
What did you do to the surface, looks like you scuffed it up a little bit? Looks good
#162
No, But I have fitted a Saito FA 325, 5Cyl Radial. I had to modify the cowl, to accomodate the protrusions of two of the 5 cylinders and make a good pasage for cooling air around the engine. It is workable,, but you need a good full day's work to make things happen.
I will post photos, as soon as they become available.
Chris
I will post photos, as soon as they become available.
Chris
#163
I scuffed it with 0000 steel wool, then put down a layer of flat clear and scuffed it again with 0000 wool and then chalked it and then put another coat of clear over it and scuffed it one more time just to bring it back to a smooth texture.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#166
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Supposed to balance perfect with that engine. I'm putting a 61 in mine but the added weight shouldn't affect it much. I've found on top flite warbirds that if you balance them nose heavy they actually fly a lot better than level like the manual shows.
#167
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+1... except for my TF GS Jug which was peeled and glassed and flies a DA50R, all the other TS GS birds I have fly great with the DLE55RA and lead weight (just an electric starter.. hehehehhehehehehe)..
The last two corsairs that I bashed for a buddy of mine needed 2 1/2 lbs in the nose...
The last two corsairs that I bashed for a buddy of mine needed 2 1/2 lbs in the nose...
Last edited by sparky4lawndart; 12-21-2014 at 05:17 PM.
#172
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Has anyone else found that you have to juggle the cowl, dummy engine and engine former with 5 hands while trying to screw the cowl to the firewall to get everything to come out in good alignment? Then just try to locate those 6 bolts holding the cowl in place with the engine installed?
Also does the dummy engine seem a little bit flimsy to you?
Merry Christmas to y'all.
Also does the dummy engine seem a little bit flimsy to you?
Merry Christmas to y'all.
#173
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usually factory dummy radials are crap material because they are just a freebie scale detail that you have to try and make work and look cool....frank tiano makes the best dummy radial i have used to date...very strong and if you do need nose weight, you might not after that because it weighs a little more than the factory one......ok alot more
#175
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usually factory dummy radials are crap material because they are just a freebie scale detail that you have to try and make work and look cool....frank tiano makes the best dummy radial i have used to date...very strong and if you do need nose weight, you might not after that because it weighs a little more than the factory one......ok alot more