SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

You have a point sparky.I'm considering using a smaller wheel which would allow removing one spacer and add the gear doors.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

In your pictures, is that Sierra Gear with 5 1/2" Sierra Wheels?

Thanks.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Yes,but they are just over 5 inches not 5 1/2

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I wonder if Sierra gear with 4 1/2" Robart wheels would work better and would allow for the Gear Doors to work, someone posted a picture earlier in this thread showing a full size Zero and the Wheels looked smaller and the 4 1/2" would be closer to scale size?

Bryan McLarty

That was me. I think it would be more like 4" wheels you'd be looking for to mate with the Sierra gear.

Bryan McLarty

What at about this idea?
This requires a rectangular lower strut bracket, a lower hinge pin with 4 e-clips and an axel with a drilled and tapped end. All of these items could be requested from Sierra and relatively easy to make for him. Doesn't require any mods to the existing gear.

The lower gear door would be mounted at the axel and at the lower strut bracket.

buddyhale

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone had any issues with Robart electric retracts in their Zero? Both gear go up when retracted, but the issue I'm having is only one comes down. I've checked for binding and everything appears fine.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Have you got the DIP switches set properly? I had mine set to the low voltage by mistake and had all kinds of problems. Now they work perfectly. Don

buddyhale

My Feedback: (2)

I think so. I'm running a 6v 2700mah Nimh powering only the gear. I have the DIP switch set to 'B'

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

I'm running 7.4v direct to mine.

buddyhale

My Feedback: (2)

I have a Li-Ion I could try, although 6v packs have always worked in the past. I have about 30-40 flights on my Zero using 6v.

Higher voltage packs just increase the speed of the gear, correct?

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Got in a few flights yesterday and all went well.My previous problems listed were my fault mostly.I land a little hot and the Zero does better when you let it slow down.After rebuilding the fin and rudder I will add new decals

JAYNC

My Feedback: (7)

What balance point have you guys been using. Mine would require about 25oz to meet the fwd recommended point of 5.75" back from leading edge. Manual says start at 6.25" but of all the TF warbirds I've flown they all flew better nose heavy. Thanks

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

This one flies better with a little forward CG. Don't worry it can handle the weight. I have over a pound forward ballast and it is still a floater. Don

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Is anyone using one of those On Board Starters from Mile High RC on a DLE55 or DLE55RA on this Plane?

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Mine flies very well balanced at 6.25 mark.I did not add any additional weight,using DLE55 w/pitts style muffler.I agree a little nose heavy is better than tail heavy.

ALFIEV

So, for anyone who still monitors this thread and might be interested (can't blame you if you're not) I finally managed to get my hands on one of these ARF's after many months of trying. Ended up getting it from a German outfit, arrived in New Zealand quite quickly, but sat at New Zealand customs for 2 weeks because somehow UPS couldn't work out how to ring my mobile (number was on the packing slip, and correct!!) so I couldn't pay import taxes. Finally sorted that out and delivered this morning.
Model looks great, only ***** is that the cowling was crushed on one side. No damage on the outside of the box so must assume this is a result of dodgy packaging at the factory. It is repairable, but will never be "brand new".
I intend to fit a Saito FG 60R3 with Robart gear, Best pilots pilot, Hitec servos, and will run the whole thing on LiFePo4 batteries. Looking forward to the assembly!!

ALFIEV

Actually, now I think of it, the cowling might never have looked brand new anyways. I am thinking I will install louvres in the cowling to increase airflow through the engine. I understand that the radial needs a better airflow than the cowling (as stock) permits.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Try and contact Top Flite Customer Service. You might be surprised how helpful they are. Their contact info is on the front of the assembly manual.

hpergm

Hi Alf,

I am monitoring the thread - quite slow isn't it? Shame really, this is one of the best value for money Model 22 Zeros in 1:5.

I also have the same set-up as yours (FG60, Best pilots, Robarts, etc) but the project was put on the back burner because the ESM T-28 (with its friendly trike undercarriage) stole my hart. (And guess what? The FG60 fits that as well.)

Looking fwd to completing the Zero, though. I want to scale the skin out as much as possible (rivets, panel overlaps, painted insignia and the hell out of weathering). I am looking for a scheme which has Jap characters on the fin but also the odd squadron band to keep it from looking too plain vanilla. The 721st Guardians would be an interesting scheme - have you seen the "Eternal Zero"?

BR,
Hector.

P.S. People, keep the reports coming the thread is tittering on the edge of oblivion!

ALFIEV

Hey Hector,

Great to hear from you. Glad you are still contemplating the Zero project. Have you taken any steps to augment the airflow through the cowling on the T-28 or your FW190? I'm thinking louvres but wouldn't fit them if I don't need them.

Thanks for the advice Lifer. Will look into it.

KR

Alf

hpergm

My plan is to cut out the moulded cowl flaps and glue them at a more open position. This, in conbination with the fake radial baffle at the front of the engine, should be more than ample.

The airflow situation in the Zero is much better than my TF FW190 which does not have cowl flaps (and indeed needs louvres). There, the baffling works wonders, engine is relatively cool and the top cylinder only 10-15degrees hotter (without a louvre behind it - louvres only behind nos 2 and 3, where it does not show on the bottom part of the cowl).

Hope this helps.

ALFIEV

Thanks again Hector. I will wait until I start fitting the engine and cowl up, and then see what needs to be done.

Alf

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Mine flies great,about 50flights on it.

ALFIEV

Got to spend some quality time in the shed over the weekend My last assembly (careful not to upset anyone by using the word "build") was an ESM 74" Corsair. Well, the Topflite is so much more fun to assemble so far. The hardware seems to be of good quality, everything seems to fit well. I did spend 30 minutes with the covering iron and heat gun taking a few wrinkles out of the wing coverings (haven't unwrapped the fuselage yet. Just brought a couple of the aileron and flap push-rods in to work so I can solder them at lunchtime.
Enjoyable assembly so far!!