New Hangar 9 30cc Spitfire! Build Thread, i got mine!
#276
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Huge help there! Not trying to seem as if I am stalking your build notes but I was curious about how you channeled the battery to esc cables through the firewall. The pictures you have posted never seem to show those details. In addition, it looks as if you have built out the battery compartment to create a space a bit aft for the batteries. That raises two questions. First, could you post some pictures of you battery area, and second, what is the weight of the 6s units you are working using. My 6s 5000 mah Admirals weigh in at 25.4 oz each. As always thanks for sharing!
Andy
Andy
#277
My Feedback: (4)
As luck would have it, I pulled a lot of my build photos off my laptop and they are on my storage external hard drive at home... I'm away, so I can't post a good photo series of the install for you.
But I can tell you I mounted my ESC onto a tray I fabricated from lite ply (the crap ply that weighs nothing, is dirt cheap, but isn't a lot stringer than hard grain balsa). It's not good for structure but it's easy to cut and light so I use it for equipment trays. Anyhow I cut a square tray a little larger than the Castle Creations ESC I was using. I mounted the tray under the motor mount box and angled it a little. The ESC went upside down mounted on that tray. The ESC connects directly to the motor in the cowl. The ESC +/- cables connect to the battery Y harness that's located under the battery hatch. The cables from the ESC pass through the firewall right behind the motor in the pre drilled hole aft of the motor. Before we leave the cowl area, I also use a Castle Creations BEC Pro, a 20 amp BEC, to power the receiver and servos. That mounts aft of the ESC, in the lower cowl area. Be sure to attach your cables to something so they aren't loose in the cowl, you don't know what they can get up to with vibration and a lot of air and heat so better to use some tie downs to reduce chances of chafing and such.
The ESC cables pass directly in between the two Admiral 5000mah, 50c packs I'm using (also 25 ounces a piece). The Y harness series connector attaches to the packs from the rear. So the packs sit side by side forward of the little wood blocks that come installed already, in the kit, to act as a baffle to stop any packs from sliding too far back I guess in the event of a velcro strap failure. Behind those blocks on the same stock tray (under the battery hatch) I've mounted my Receiver and sound system master switch. There is a ton of room aft of the packs for a lot more. Where the receiver switch is usually mounted I mounted my castle creations safety pin and flag that has to be removed before the ESC arms after you plug in the packs.
In the lower cowl (again up front) I step drilled a 20 or 30mm hole in the lower firewall below the motor box to allow air flow to pass and also it allows other electrical lines to pass like the BEC wires to the receiver and also the sound system wires from the transducers in the cowl to the sound modules mounted where the throttle servo would be located if flying gas (just forward of the elevator servos) - this is the tray just above the wing saddle and in the fuse.
I try to keep all wires routed n a tidy fashion. This looks better but also eliminates loose wires that can detach connectors or act as good interference pickups (when you have excess wire coils for example) from electronic noise the speed controller and motor make.
I'll attach the few install photos I still have in random corners of my iphoto library - maybe you can see some details in there... They are not ideal for what you are looking for but some details you are wondering about, might pop out.
But I can tell you I mounted my ESC onto a tray I fabricated from lite ply (the crap ply that weighs nothing, is dirt cheap, but isn't a lot stringer than hard grain balsa). It's not good for structure but it's easy to cut and light so I use it for equipment trays. Anyhow I cut a square tray a little larger than the Castle Creations ESC I was using. I mounted the tray under the motor mount box and angled it a little. The ESC went upside down mounted on that tray. The ESC connects directly to the motor in the cowl. The ESC +/- cables connect to the battery Y harness that's located under the battery hatch. The cables from the ESC pass through the firewall right behind the motor in the pre drilled hole aft of the motor. Before we leave the cowl area, I also use a Castle Creations BEC Pro, a 20 amp BEC, to power the receiver and servos. That mounts aft of the ESC, in the lower cowl area. Be sure to attach your cables to something so they aren't loose in the cowl, you don't know what they can get up to with vibration and a lot of air and heat so better to use some tie downs to reduce chances of chafing and such.
The ESC cables pass directly in between the two Admiral 5000mah, 50c packs I'm using (also 25 ounces a piece). The Y harness series connector attaches to the packs from the rear. So the packs sit side by side forward of the little wood blocks that come installed already, in the kit, to act as a baffle to stop any packs from sliding too far back I guess in the event of a velcro strap failure. Behind those blocks on the same stock tray (under the battery hatch) I've mounted my Receiver and sound system master switch. There is a ton of room aft of the packs for a lot more. Where the receiver switch is usually mounted I mounted my castle creations safety pin and flag that has to be removed before the ESC arms after you plug in the packs.
In the lower cowl (again up front) I step drilled a 20 or 30mm hole in the lower firewall below the motor box to allow air flow to pass and also it allows other electrical lines to pass like the BEC wires to the receiver and also the sound system wires from the transducers in the cowl to the sound modules mounted where the throttle servo would be located if flying gas (just forward of the elevator servos) - this is the tray just above the wing saddle and in the fuse.
I try to keep all wires routed n a tidy fashion. This looks better but also eliminates loose wires that can detach connectors or act as good interference pickups (when you have excess wire coils for example) from electronic noise the speed controller and motor make.
I'll attach the few install photos I still have in random corners of my iphoto library - maybe you can see some details in there... They are not ideal for what you are looking for but some details you are wondering about, might pop out.
#278
My Feedback: (4)
OK I "gill netted" the "Groups" Spitfire thread and that's where I posted most of my build pics. These two pages have the second and third batch of all the photos posted in that massive thread, posted by everyone. Most of my build pics are among the other ones in page 2 and 3. Click on a photo to see, or click on the post below the photo to get into the thread and read about what was said about the photos. This will help you out a lot more than those random photos I posted above.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumb...rter=no&page=2
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumb...rter=no&page=3
Happy hunting!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumb...rter=no&page=2
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumb...rter=no&page=3
Happy hunting!
#280
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: waterloo, AR, BELGIUM
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#286
I have the CG at 129mm, powered by a Saito FG-36cc, dead weight added is only 13.5oz, AUW before addition of fuel is 18lbs 13.5ozs. Have somewhere between 100 to 125 flights with no major problems. Love flying my H9 30cc Spitfire, I call it my dream machine!!
#288
The FG-36 has run like a well oiled Singer sewing machine since I purchased it back in 2010. I originally had it installed in a H9 P-51 Mustang, then in Aug 2014 I installed it in the H9 Spitfire. I wish Saito would come out with a 65cc single cylinder, it would be the perfect 4 stroke engine to install in my TF P-51. I have a 55RA currently installed in the Mustang but I am not very happy with the sound of the two stroke compared with the awesome sound of a 4 stroke Saito.
Last edited by ForcesR; 11-30-2016 at 08:42 PM.
#291
With the FG-36 installed in the H9 30cc, the engine sits approximately 1 inch (25mm) more forward than most other engines. That is why I installed so little dead weight (13.5ozs) to achieve a CG of 129mm. The installation of the FG-40 would be the same as the FG-36. With the FG-36 installed 1 inch forward, the cowl has to be moved forward too to achieve the proper spacing between the spinner back plate and the front of the cowl. With the cowl moved 1 inch forward the result is a 1 inch gap between the back of the cowl and the access hatch. To hide the hatch gap, I made a shroud. The shroud does not interfere with hatch installation or removal; most folks don't even notice the shroud until I point it out to them.
I also had to install an air dam/spoiler at the leading edge of the fake carburetor scoop to draw more warm air out of the cowl warm air exit hole. Before installing the air dam I could fly for 5 or 6 minutes before the engine began showing signs of overheating. With the air dam installed the Spitfire has flown 12 minutes or more without any further heating issues.
See photos at link below, page 9, post # 209 for FG-36 installation.
See photos at link below, page 16, post # 398 for Air dam/spoiler installation.
Roger
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ot-mine-9.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...hanger-16.html
#293
My Feedback: (4)
Anyone going to be flying their Spitfires at the Castle Giant Scale meet in Atwater, CA in late May?
I had my H9 30CC Spitfire out yesterday to enjoy a beautiful morning, and to possibly pick up on any maintenance items that might need attention before the meet. None required except for the wing tip skid I ended up scuffing up after scraping during a side to side Spitfire-Tango dance during the roll out after landing. No issues there except 10 minutes of free time, some epoxy and fly again
I'm flying 12s, 5000mah packs. Hacker A60-14L and a 20x13 prop at my home field in the mountains (5050' msl) or a 19x12 at sea level.
Castle Giant Scale Fly-In - Central Ca Model Flyers
I had my H9 30CC Spitfire out yesterday to enjoy a beautiful morning, and to possibly pick up on any maintenance items that might need attention before the meet. None required except for the wing tip skid I ended up scuffing up after scraping during a side to side Spitfire-Tango dance during the roll out after landing. No issues there except 10 minutes of free time, some epoxy and fly again
I'm flying 12s, 5000mah packs. Hacker A60-14L and a 20x13 prop at my home field in the mountains (5050' msl) or a 19x12 at sea level.
Castle Giant Scale Fly-In - Central Ca Model Flyers
Last edited by Eddie P; 04-30-2017 at 07:02 AM.
#294
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Can I just ask about the pilot. Looks like 'Bbi Elite Force: RAF WW2 Fighter pilot Keith Gordon'? Just wondering as I thought the Spitfire was 1/5 scale and the pilot 1/6 scale, I think? Thanks.
#296
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Hi Guys,
Just finished a page on my web site-The Hangar 9 Spitfire IXC 30cc ARF 81"
I have tried to gather all the details available, on this model, in one spot for convenience. Any comments would be most welcome!
Just finished a page on my web site-The Hangar 9 Spitfire IXC 30cc ARF 81"
I have tried to gather all the details available, on this model, in one spot for convenience. Any comments would be most welcome!
#297
Join Date: Dec 2002
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For those that may not have seen it yet,the Hangar 9 Spitfire 30cc and Evolution 33GX gas engine are on SALE! Hurry sales ends 11/13.
See the complete list of items here,
[url]www.horizonhobby.com/storefronts/stores/veterans-day-sale[/url]
Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc 30cc ARF 81" (HAN4495): Was $629.99, NOW $549.99
[url]www.horizonhobby.com/spitfire-mk-ixc-30cc-arf-han4495[/url]
See the complete list of items here,
[url]www.horizonhobby.com/storefronts/stores/veterans-day-sale[/url]
Hangar 9 Spitfire Mk IXc 30cc ARF 81" (HAN4495): Was $629.99, NOW $549.99
[url]www.horizonhobby.com/spitfire-mk-ixc-30cc-arf-han4495[/url]
#298
Hey everyone, I have a question about engine sizes. Will the dle30cc motor with a wrap around pipe fit in the cowl of this plane without tearing up the cowl? I'm ok with cutting the bottom but I hate cutting the sides. Thanks
#299
adding nose weight
Hello to all pilots of this lovely bird. I just found this thread here and before going through it, I wanna ask a quick and stupid question. How many grams of nose weight did you guys put?
I put a Saito FG40 in the cowl and made a customized frame for nose weight and other purposes. A rough checking showed me 1050grams of noise weight shall be put for proper CG. Is this too much?
I put a Saito FG40 in the cowl and made a customized frame for nose weight and other purposes. A rough checking showed me 1050grams of noise weight shall be put for proper CG. Is this too much?
#300
My Feedback: (11)
It's a warbird, they take a lot of weight to get the CG because if they are scale they have a short nose and a long tail.
That said, shoot for the rear range of the CG and make it easy to remove weight because to get mine to fly well I ended up beyond the rear of the published CG range and now it flys and lands like a doll.
That said, shoot for the rear range of the CG and make it easy to remove weight because to get mine to fly well I ended up beyond the rear of the published CG range and now it flys and lands like a doll.