New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
12-22-2014, 06:00 AM
#277
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the 55RA looks like it would be a great fit. I am unsure about the starter however as it is a pretty tight fit... I have a 55 with the EME starter, if it ever gets near the Mustang I'll check it out.
12-22-2014, 12:46 PM
#280
Hi,
That may be true, but after using the EME starter system, TWO prop flips is too much for me! Pushing a button and watching the engine start itself (while pretending the little man inside the cockpit is pushing down on the toe brakes): COOL.
That may be true, but after using the EME starter system, TWO prop flips is too much for me! Pushing a button and watching the engine start itself (while pretending the little man inside the cockpit is pushing down on the toe brakes): COOL.
12-22-2014, 02:25 PM
#281
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I agree with that... Until you have flown a model with an on board starter and servo operated choke you really can't knock it. The fun/cool factor is worth 100 bux and a little added weight IMO, but not everyone will agree.
12-22-2014, 02:59 PM
#282
I know what you mean, the club flight line guys look at me like I'm nuts when my spotter drags the plane to the starting line then straddles the tail and waits for me to push the throttle trim up and then the prop starts turning and the Merlin starting sounds come from the plane. They always look amazed when it breaks into a 12 cylinder roar.
12-23-2014, 02:55 AM
#285
One of my landings at Ocala the plane went up on the nose at the end of the run out but because of the extremely slow idle rpms did not break the prop. When it dropped back on to the tail wheel and the prop was still turning I slowly advanced the power. It didn't seem to be vibrating so I taxied back to the pit gate to find that other than a grass stain on one blade it was undamaged. I moved the flight battery back a 1/4 inch and continued to fly with that prop, a Graupner 22-12.
12-23-2014, 03:22 AM
#287
I am currently using the RimFire 50cc brushless electric motor. It bolts right up to the DA 50R standoffs with the option DA mount from Tower hobbies. I initially flew it with the tight spinner back plate clearance that was use with the DA motor. High motor temps of 180 degrees F caused me to shim the motor for 1/4 inch clearance between the spinner back plate and cowl and lowered motor temps to 135 degrees F. I thought that this would be unsightly but nobody has noticed the change.
12-23-2014, 03:39 PM
#289
Hi,
Got my H-9 Mustang home today! First impression: Covering SUCKS. Seriously, I just can't understand why they'd bother designing a 'scale' bird and then having them do a Chinese sweat-shop style covering job that looks like someone's first attempt--or how it passed QC. What a waste of time and covering. Dear H-9/Horizon guys: Just leave it bare and let us do it if this is how you're going to ship it.
I'll post pics later, but especially around sharp curves and corners like the dorsal fin and the wing fillets (which I know are the challenging areas for a guy doing the covering), you'll see what I'm talking about. Piss-poor. I bought a roll of covering after I opened the box at the hobby shop so I could strip those areas and do it properly. I'm not whining about a few sags and bubbles, I'm talking about it looking like they didn't MIND if it looked like crap--so long as it meant they could get the job done in one hour instead of one hour and eight minutes.
The retracts look SLICK, though! I'm going to read through the manual then set them up. Be back later!
Got my H-9 Mustang home today! First impression: Covering SUCKS. Seriously, I just can't understand why they'd bother designing a 'scale' bird and then having them do a Chinese sweat-shop style covering job that looks like someone's first attempt--or how it passed QC. What a waste of time and covering. Dear H-9/Horizon guys: Just leave it bare and let us do it if this is how you're going to ship it.
I'll post pics later, but especially around sharp curves and corners like the dorsal fin and the wing fillets (which I know are the challenging areas for a guy doing the covering), you'll see what I'm talking about. Piss-poor. I bought a roll of covering after I opened the box at the hobby shop so I could strip those areas and do it properly. I'm not whining about a few sags and bubbles, I'm talking about it looking like they didn't MIND if it looked like crap--so long as it meant they could get the job done in one hour instead of one hour and eight minutes.
The retracts look SLICK, though! I'm going to read through the manual then set them up. Be back later!
12-23-2014, 04:10 PM
#290
Hi,
Got my H-9 Mustang home today! First impression: Covering SUCKS. Seriously, I just can't understand why they'd bother designing a 'scale' bird and then having them do a Chinese sweat-shop style covering job that looks like someone's first attempt--or how it passed QC. What a waste of time and covering. Dear H-9/Horizon guys: Just leave it bare and let us do it if this is how you're going to ship it.
I'll post pics later, but especially around sharp curves and corners like the dorsal fin and the wing fillets (which I know are the challenging areas for a guy doing the covering), you'll see what I'm talking about. Piss-poor. I bought a roll of covering after I opened the box at the hobby shop so I could strip those areas and do it properly. I'm not whining about a few sags and bubbles, I'm talking about it looking like they didn't MIND if it looked like crap--so long as it meant they could get the job done in one hour instead of one hour and eight minutes.
The retracts look SLICK, though! I'm going to read through the manual then set them up. Be back later!
Got my H-9 Mustang home today! First impression: Covering SUCKS. Seriously, I just can't understand why they'd bother designing a 'scale' bird and then having them do a Chinese sweat-shop style covering job that looks like someone's first attempt--or how it passed QC. What a waste of time and covering. Dear H-9/Horizon guys: Just leave it bare and let us do it if this is how you're going to ship it.
I'll post pics later, but especially around sharp curves and corners like the dorsal fin and the wing fillets (which I know are the challenging areas for a guy doing the covering), you'll see what I'm talking about. Piss-poor. I bought a roll of covering after I opened the box at the hobby shop so I could strip those areas and do it properly. I'm not whining about a few sags and bubbles, I'm talking about it looking like they didn't MIND if it looked like crap--so long as it meant they could get the job done in one hour instead of one hour and eight minutes.
The retracts look SLICK, though! I'm going to read through the manual then set them up. Be back later!
12-23-2014, 05:42 PM
#292
Hi,
No open bays. No spinner, either. That's an optional item. I got confused with TF. I guess I'll go order that now. The gear are very nice. They fit in perfectly and operate in a very scale-like manner. The flaps are split in the middle and they fit much better on one side than the other. Looks like they actually used epoxy on some of the wood-to-wood joints (ahem, TF...)
No open bays. No spinner, either. That's an optional item. I got confused with TF. I guess I'll go order that now. The gear are very nice. They fit in perfectly and operate in a very scale-like manner. The flaps are split in the middle and they fit much better on one side than the other. Looks like they actually used epoxy on some of the wood-to-wood joints (ahem, TF...)
12-23-2014, 05:47 PM
#293
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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I was at the LHS today and the truck showed up with my Mustang. Of course we had to drool over the landing gear. Time will have to tell but they really look strong. They are beautiful. Now....on to the air frame. I also have the Top Flite P-51.....it is also new. The covering REALLY sucks on that model. Took about 30 minutes with covering iron and gun to get one elevator half to look excellent. Anyone that has worked with silver monocote knows exactly what i am talking about.
The Hanger 9 covering is really pretty bad. My first covering job was better. Pretty much just what Yellow said....kind of looks like a first day worker covered the plane. I haven't unpacked the fuse yet so hopefully it will be better. I can probably get some photos up tomorrow.
Many good features on this bird....may fly it for a season and if it survives I will strip the covering and glass the air frame and paint. Perfect time to learn how to do panel lines and rivets.
The Hanger 9 covering is really pretty bad. My first covering job was better. Pretty much just what Yellow said....kind of looks like a first day worker covered the plane. I haven't unpacked the fuse yet so hopefully it will be better. I can probably get some photos up tomorrow.
Many good features on this bird....may fly it for a season and if it survives I will strip the covering and glass the air frame and paint. Perfect time to learn how to do panel lines and rivets.
12-23-2014, 05:58 PM
#294
It has been my experience with bad factory covering jobs that the shrinking you do to remedy the bad job only makes it more difficult to remove later when you get tired of constantly removing wrinkles. Trying to peel this this stuff off is easier if you haven't ironed it down. I have peeled the Chinese versions off in one piece from new planes. After ironing it down it takes a lot of heat and it pulls wood up with it and leaves a lot of adhesive on the structure when removed. In other words, a mess.
12-23-2014, 05:59 PM
#295
Yep,
I went through the box to verify all contents before shipping an E-Flite F-4. Are these planes made in the same place?? That plane's covering job is a 9. No wrinkles and they make it look like they actually tell the workers about how you can pull/stretch the covering to make it go around curves without wrinkling.
I went through the box to verify all contents before shipping an E-Flite F-4. Are these planes made in the same place?? That plane's covering job is a 9. No wrinkles and they make it look like they actually tell the workers about how you can pull/stretch the covering to make it go around curves without wrinkling.
12-23-2014, 06:04 PM
#296
It seems like in the end it would be easier and cheaper to make molds and just create these complex WW2 models out of fiberglass. Maybe not, but to have to frame all of these airframes out of wood, and then have to cover them. I would assert that you would have more control over QC with a product such as this. Maybe the tool up costs are too high, but in the end you would have a much better product.
12-23-2014, 10:59 PM
#297
As expensive as these new ARF's are not only should they be fiberglass but the covering should be great/awesome for an ARF of this type.
How absolutely sad is it that two NEW owners are disappointed right out of the box!?
To add insult to injury the model is late to market AND its disappointing.
The biggest gripe I have with the general mentality in this industry is that manufacturers are willing to pass off poor products as good just to let customers FIX thier problems. Oh its ok its a hobby and thats alright I can fix it up. Do you guys walk into Sears to buy a washing machine and say the same thing? Lol, cause if you do then Im in the wrong business!
Demand better from HH and TF/GP and rest of them and DO NOT BUY THESE PRODUCTS as is. I have bought and sold more airplane models than I have built and flown because of poor quality. I refuse to accept crap for my money. I dont have time to redesign or refinish any models.
HH had it all to win by releasing a nice P-51 but not like this. For $900 Id rather buy a composite plane with some detail, not full museum scale, but panel lines and some other details. This is completely possible and well within their grasp manufacturing in China or Vietnam. Ive met with two factories and bid this exact project out. Wouldnt you rather have a fiberglass model over a balsa one? Demand better from these companies and dont accept anything less!
How absolutely sad is it that two NEW owners are disappointed right out of the box!?
To add insult to injury the model is late to market AND its disappointing.
The biggest gripe I have with the general mentality in this industry is that manufacturers are willing to pass off poor products as good just to let customers FIX thier problems. Oh its ok its a hobby and thats alright I can fix it up. Do you guys walk into Sears to buy a washing machine and say the same thing? Lol, cause if you do then Im in the wrong business!
Demand better from HH and TF/GP and rest of them and DO NOT BUY THESE PRODUCTS as is. I have bought and sold more airplane models than I have built and flown because of poor quality. I refuse to accept crap for my money. I dont have time to redesign or refinish any models.
HH had it all to win by releasing a nice P-51 but not like this. For $900 Id rather buy a composite plane with some detail, not full museum scale, but panel lines and some other details. This is completely possible and well within their grasp manufacturing in China or Vietnam. Ive met with two factories and bid this exact project out. Wouldnt you rather have a fiberglass model over a balsa one? Demand better from these companies and dont accept anything less!
12-23-2014, 11:07 PM
#298
It seems like in the end it would be easier and cheaper to make molds and just create these complex WW2 models out of fiberglass. Maybe not, but to have to frame all of these airframes out of wood, and then have to cover them. I would assert that you would have more control over QC with a product such as this. Maybe the tool up costs are too high, but in the end you would have a much better product.
Take one of these and glass and detail it then make molds. You will have substantially changed the original model into your master model. Make a set of molds designed for production not just garage slap dash weekend projects so the results can be repeatable and consistent. It doesnt cost that much to do here in the US. You can do low volume handcrafted quality work and get a decent price for it.
12-24-2014, 12:30 AM
#299
Hi,
For me, it's mainly frustrating because they've clearly put a lot of thought and effort into making a good plane. If they've intended to beat the TF, they cleared that hurdle before I opened the box. They've gone through the trouble of designing it internally so that it could accommodate a full-depth cockpit and have a sliding canopy as stock. Why go through all of that just to eff up the 'end-game' and offer a bargain-basement covering job? Don't get my gripe wrong--I don't mind fixing bubbles or wrinkles with an iron. It's the areas where they've branded the wrinkles in on top of themselves (between two layers of covering near joints and seams). Those have to be lived with or redone. Total head-scratcher on that one....
They want $200 for the painted spinner. Umm..... nope. I'll go with the Dave Brown one they offer for $60. Still a tiny bit of a sting, but I'm sure that's only because I'm used to TF including them with the ARF and then charging $45 for a replacement. Oh well. Overall, it's still a beauty compared to the TF.
Anybody know where to get slightly shorter standoffs for the DLE 55RA?
For me, it's mainly frustrating because they've clearly put a lot of thought and effort into making a good plane. If they've intended to beat the TF, they cleared that hurdle before I opened the box. They've gone through the trouble of designing it internally so that it could accommodate a full-depth cockpit and have a sliding canopy as stock. Why go through all of that just to eff up the 'end-game' and offer a bargain-basement covering job? Don't get my gripe wrong--I don't mind fixing bubbles or wrinkles with an iron. It's the areas where they've branded the wrinkles in on top of themselves (between two layers of covering near joints and seams). Those have to be lived with or redone. Total head-scratcher on that one....
They want $200 for the painted spinner. Umm..... nope. I'll go with the Dave Brown one they offer for $60. Still a tiny bit of a sting, but I'm sure that's only because I'm used to TF including them with the ARF and then charging $45 for a replacement. Oh well. Overall, it's still a beauty compared to the TF.
Anybody know where to get slightly shorter standoffs for the DLE 55RA?
12-24-2014, 05:09 AM
#300
SWB has any standoffs you need or will make them if he doesn't. You can also hit McMaster Carr and get just about anything hardware related.
The retracts are cool eh? Mine probably had 100 cycles before it left the bench
Anyone doing Gentleman Jim or tossing the decals, I could use a set of the Yeager stuff, happy to pay shipping so i dont have to buy a whole set.
The retracts are cool eh? Mine probably had 100 cycles before it left the bench
Anyone doing Gentleman Jim or tossing the decals, I could use a set of the Yeager stuff, happy to pay shipping so i dont have to buy a whole set.