speedbrake

I was going to install a DLE55ra but got a good deal on a side exhaust. I too wanted the exhaust tubes centered on the underside. The side exhaust fits inside the cowl and a slim wrap-around muffler does provide centered exhaust tubes under the plane, and no ugliness protruding from the side. The same type engine and exhaust is installed on my TF mustang which is smaller and has less room in the cowl area than does the HH mustang. The stock DLE 55 exhaust muffler and the wrap-around smoke muffler will stick out the side of the cowl.

fhollahan

I have a DLE55 with a wrap around in another plane. It would work in the H9 with a slim pitts type wrap around like the other engines in the 50cc to 60cc range. I only know of Jtec selling them. I am going with the DA-60 but you could save money with a DLE55 and use a slim muffler to fit in the cowl. The DLE55 is no longer being manufactured I believe. Went to the DLE site and now the rear DLE55RA is the only one in that size. The side exhaust inventory is still out there.

dale691

Has anyone had issues with overheating? I have the AW mustang and having issues with overheating

GR7Racer

It seems to be very similar to both the Top Flite and AeroWorks mustang for cooling setup. The problem that I see most often with install in these airplanes is that folks cut a hole in the bottom of the cowl just in front of the firewall. Due to angle of the bottom of the mustang in this area, this hole can actually act as a scoop and push air into the cowling instead of letting it exit there. A small deflector "cowl flap" at the leading edge of this hole will create a low pressure area just aft of it and help to suck air out of the cowling. I had this setup on my TF Mustang and also on my H9 Mustang and the cooling seems to be working fine. Somebody around here has Pe Revier's posts and diagrams on cooling cowled engines which I tried to follow on this install.

KennyMac

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

The GT 60 is a side exhaust.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Here is what you need to evacuate your hot air properly. This is what PE Rievers mentioned in his cooling post. These create a low pressure that literally sucks the air out, instead of swirling up inside that hole. And yes, I have some, use them, and they work great.

http://www.redwingrc.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=344

Another issue to keep in mind with these side exhaust engines, with wrap around mufflers. You need to use a strap to "close the loop" of the mounting. There have been many threads on pilots not able to keep these mufflers secure. All of that unsupported weight vibrating will come loose, without the aid of a strap on the muffler end. Just something to keep in mind.

patniven

My Feedback: (36)

Just picked up a DLE-61 from Tower for $349. It's on sale for $419, with an email code for $70 off a $399 purchase...couldn't pass it up. Code is 41038; not sure if it's offered to everyone or just Super Saver members. Both the sale price and code expire on 28 FEB.

Speed-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

Finishing up the P-51and am wondering if anyone has picked the prop size they are going to use with an OS GT60? I am looking for the flying prop, not the break-in. Would also like the make of the propeller as well.

Thanks in advance.

David

captainron

I know these hanger 9 51's are hard to get.......Seems like Horizon is always out. I know where one is at (LHS) in Denver, Co., NIB..... Just in case anyone is interested.

Captain Ron

Speed-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

Shows in stock at Horizon today.

captainron

excellent.......just sayin

fhollahan

Continuing with the build. Here are some pics. A lot of wiring in this plane!

1. Receiver Mount, Rudder/Rear wheel steering servo
2. Rear wheel retract.
3. Elevator and Rudder servo horns. (I painted the servo horns to match the surfaces and blend in) I painted the ones on the ailerons/flaps too.
4/5. Dual Battery switches under the cockpit view and in the cockpit. (These are balance charge switches so I don't need to enter the battery bay to charge the LiFe batteries)
6. Ignition Switch next to the battery bay door and underneath. (This is also a balance charge switch)

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Great pics!

Question - how do you access the balance connectors for charging?

fhollahan

I am using (2) ED-Nano 6.6v 2500mAH Heavy-Duty LiFe Batteries and 2 of their EDR-77N Ultra Switch Nano Balance-Charge switches for the Dual Power Receiver. For the Ignition I am using their standard 2500mAH Battery and the Standard EDC-77N Balance Charge Switch. There are 2 connections to the input side of the switch (Balance and Charge) to each battery. The ElectroDynamics website shows how it works. The switch handles the balancing. I am going to test it out as this is the first time I have used these batteries and their balance switch.

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

Anyone flying one of these yet? Have video?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yes, no

Jeff Hendricks

My Feedback: (3)

Nice. where can I get some wheel chalks like that ?

fhollahan

Putting in a DA-60 required me to do the following:

Use all of the wood spacers they provide which provides a 25mm standoff. I put it together and it is about a 2mm gap to the spinner. A bit tight. I may add 1-2mm washers depending on how it looks.

The DA-60 Carb needles come facing up to the top of the fuselage when mounted. You can rotate this 180 degrees I believe but I don't want to be trying to get to them from underneath at the field. I created two 1/8 size holes in the top that I can get to very easily. You can see one of the tubes that will act as a guide to the needle valve in the picture. I will fit a very thin screw driver thru to get to the needles from the top. The tubes will be flush to the top of cowl. May even put some colored surface caps in them with the matching color to hide them even more.

fhollahan

More build pics.

1. DA-60/spinner/prop/cowl/muffler test mount. Jtec slimline muffler before and after I cut the exhaust tubes down by 1.5 inches.
2. Cow cut-out. I cut-out all the way between engine cooling fins and the muffler. I could have left the space in between in tact but I am a bit paranoid about over heating.
3. Engine Choke Servo mount
4. Top side fuse view of the carb needle holes that I made a few "plugs" to hide. There would be no way to get to the needles from the bottom with the muffler in the way even if I rotated the carb 180 degrees.

Oldcrow p51

hi, thanks for building photos.. I have problem with elevator servos. As per manual it's recommended to use mini servos high voltage such spm A5060. I have hitech 5245mg and it has tourqe 5.5 kg on 6 v setup. Do you think it's ok if use hitech 5245 for elevator? Thanks in advance.

Oldcrow p51

Any one can help me in this plssss. This is my first time I'm building model and I start with H9 p51 60cc.
My concern is which servo to use in elevator if I don't want to use recommended servo A5060 which not available here at LHS. So I have set of hitech 5245MG mini servos and I'm not familiar with thos one. Kindly advice.

aehaas

"More build pics.

1. DA-60/spinner/prop/cowl/muffler test mount. Jtec slimline muffler before and after I cut the exhaust tubes down by 1.5 inches.
2. Cow cut-out. I cut-out all the way between engine cooling fins and the muffler. I could have left the space in between in tact but I am a bit paranoid about over heating.
3. Engine Choke Servo mount
4. Top side fuse view of the carb needle holes that I made a few "plugs" to hide. There would be no way to get to the needles from the bottom with the muffler in the way even if I rotated the carb 180 degrees."

What spinner are you using and what size is it?

Thanks.

aehaas

fhollahan

I hope this is not your "first time" building a model. This is an intermediate to advanced builders plane. Although it is an "ARF" it is challenging to build. I would suggest you get an experience modeler from your club to assist you if possible. I would stick close to the manual specs to if you are not experienced building.

For the items you can't get at the LHS I would suggest going online to purchase. You can research the parts and specs from the manual online to. Go to the Spektrum website to get the specs on the servos they recommend in the manual. Then go to the Hitec site and see what they have. The A5060 is a HV servo with 87 oz-in (6.3 kg-cm) @ 6.0V; 118 oz-in (8.5 kg-cm) @ 8.4V for torque ratings. The 5245MG is a non HV Servo with 76 oz-in @6.0V. Slightly lower in spec but I think you can use this one for that service. Generally, I like to meet or exceed the specs. If you use some mix of HV and non HV servos you'll need to keep the power to the ~6V range. Hope this helps.

fhollahan

It is the one from the manual made by H9 (HAN477020). I managed to get one at a 12% discount shipped to the door before they went out of stock everywhere. They are expensive (~$200 list) before the discount. But this is a large spinner. Tru-Turn makes good spinners that I have used but they similarly priced and I don't think they make one in this size as a standard (may need to be custom ordered at more cost Another less expensive option is to get a Dave Brown (Vortec)Parabolic. The outer dimension needs to be 5 1/2" The Vortec one is ~$80 I believe. I have not used them but maybe someone on the thread can share their experience. You could then paint it. Given it's size, I would think a well balanced spinner is very important.

fhollahan

KennyMac, that is a nice clean under cowl setup. Nine is not as clean. I have a bit more pipe sticking out and open between the fins to the pipes with the small slot behind the pipes. I don't think I need the cowl flap with the drag on the pipes creating the vacuum and a bigger opening right at the fins. Thoughts? Also, did you use the engine baffle that came with the kit to direct the air over the motor fins as well?