New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
#676
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Banks,
AR
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I am using the Benedini sound system, The motor batteries are a 6 pack of Hobby people 3200mah 4s 30c lipos wired 12s 2p and a new Zippy 6 pack of 3300mah 4s 35c lipos wired the same. I was using 12s 5300 45c Gens Ace lipos but the current load is to much for a 12s pack. The 6 packs run cooler as the current is divided between the parrallel packs. Each cell only sees half the load. Current load was 134amps with the VarioProp set at 18 inch pitch during climbout from takeoff until the gear retract then drops to 80amps as the plane accelerates to fast cruise (80-90mph). An acceleration from cruise to top speed initially draws 130amps but drops back much lower as it tops out. One session with a GPS speed app on board recorded with an on board sport cam captured top speeds of 107-114mph. Lift-off was at around 23mph and full flap landing speed is 33mph. The next flight will be with the pitch set at 20 inches because the Rimfire 65cc motor is still over-revving the varioprop. The design rpm limit for it is 4800rpm. I never use full throttle for takeoffs so I might reduce the transmitter's throttle servo upper travel to control the top rpm. I don't want it to fly faster than it was getting to before the Varioprop as the airframe is not glassed and I have already had a D model fuse break in half at a radar clocked 122mph. There is a design flaw in the fuse that produces a weak spot at the back of the cockpit. It can easily be fixed by installing 3/4 inch balsa triangle stock on both sides of the bulkhead there (4 pieces). I get 5 minutes of high speed flight at half throttle and up to 2 go a rounds for landing. & minutes total.
#677
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Location: Banks,
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http://youtu.be/HTKD1gU-MQQ This the link to my plane flying with the VarioProp.
#678
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http://youtu.be/HTKD1gU-MQQ This the link to my plane flying with the VarioProp.
#679
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http://youtu.be/HTKD1gU-MQQ This the link to my plane flying with the VarioProp.
#680
My Feedback: (3)
I removed the tank shelf and installed a shelf on each side of the compartment. The electric installation is installed with wood screws and the plane can be converted back to gas in a couple of hours. There are 6, 4 cell lipos. In this picture 4 are stacked behind the CG and 2 in front. The wiring harness is not shown. The red and black marks on the wing saddles are there to check the CG before putting the wing back on. I first set the CG with all equipment on board ( move the batteries around to get it exactly right), then removed the wing and lifted the fuse with 2 fingers on the wing saddles to locate the CG without the wing. I put the 2 marks on each side of where my fingers need to be for the fuse to hang level. At the field when installing battery packs of different weight ( 1 have 3 different batt. configurations), I lift the fuse with 2 fingers on the wing saddles for a quick CG check. If OK, put the wing on and go fly.
I will probably get a new fuse part from Tower and build a battery hatch into the top so removing the wing is not necessary. I have seen this done to Aero Works P 51s. This is the way to go if you start out electric, my plane was built with DA 50R power and the change to electric happened during the middle of the Florida flying season (winter). Our building season in Florida starts at the end of May when the temperature gets to 90 degrees.
I will probably get a new fuse part from Tower and build a battery hatch into the top so removing the wing is not necessary. I have seen this done to Aero Works P 51s. This is the way to go if you start out electric, my plane was built with DA 50R power and the change to electric happened during the middle of the Florida flying season (winter). Our building season in Florida starts at the end of May when the temperature gets to 90 degrees.
#682
I only need the spinner and muffler to be up in the air.
I have some extras in this build. I have the iGyro but it is not wired in. That will happen after I get everything else going and tuned. I have the lighting system installed. The canopy operates. I have bomb drops. I needed more channels so I installed the X-Plus extension to my 12 channel receiver.
The ignition battery is in the compartment just above it on the planes right side. The other three are in the battery compartment. Instead of a screw bottom cover I converted it to a snap-in place cover. The four corner screws are fake but cover the holes. Inside are the four switches for 1-ignition, 2- x-Plus module (controls the landing gear, bombs, lights. Switches 3 and 4 are the receiver batteries. All are 2500mA LiFe batteries. This should not hurt anything as they say we need nose weight. It will be in batteries and it simplifies charging.
All batteries go through a charge/on-off switch module that allows for charging with only one cable. I never have to disconnect batteries. There is an adapter that connects to your 2s balance cord and charge leads. These large switches cut the batteries off at the source so there is no parasitic load.
The fuel filler is correct and at the canopy for the fuselage tank. There are no external switches or others items.
I used TBOLT harnesses to simplify hooking up to the wing but still a lot going on here. The wing connections are TBOLT as well so I only have one connection at each wing tip tube slide area.
aehaas
I have some extras in this build. I have the iGyro but it is not wired in. That will happen after I get everything else going and tuned. I have the lighting system installed. The canopy operates. I have bomb drops. I needed more channels so I installed the X-Plus extension to my 12 channel receiver.
The ignition battery is in the compartment just above it on the planes right side. The other three are in the battery compartment. Instead of a screw bottom cover I converted it to a snap-in place cover. The four corner screws are fake but cover the holes. Inside are the four switches for 1-ignition, 2- x-Plus module (controls the landing gear, bombs, lights. Switches 3 and 4 are the receiver batteries. All are 2500mA LiFe batteries. This should not hurt anything as they say we need nose weight. It will be in batteries and it simplifies charging.
All batteries go through a charge/on-off switch module that allows for charging with only one cable. I never have to disconnect batteries. There is an adapter that connects to your 2s balance cord and charge leads. These large switches cut the batteries off at the source so there is no parasitic load.
The fuel filler is correct and at the canopy for the fuselage tank. There are no external switches or others items.
I used TBOLT harnesses to simplify hooking up to the wing but still a lot going on here. The wing connections are TBOLT as well so I only have one connection at each wing tip tube slide area.
aehaas
#684
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glenmoore,
PA
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Ok, I am all done the build and have checked out everything from a radio and control perspective. I have to get the CG dialed in. A preliminary check indicated I need a little more weight to the front. Clearly a little tail heavy. Has anyone flown with the CG recommendations and have any thoughts on what the manual calls for now that you have flown the plane? I know this is a bit of preference within the range but would be nice to hear? Also, my weight is above the 25lb estimate in the specs. Seems they often under estimate. I did some quick weight check without fuel and I think I am in the 27-28 lb range. I don't have extras on this either. I have bomb/payload drop, but no lights. But larger batteries, pilot figure, choke servo/linkage, etc. and it adds up. I am using all 12 channels on the receiver when you include ignition kill and bomb/payload tank drops.
Here are some final pictures and a video of retracts working on the plane. Once I get to maiden it I'll report back how it flies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXbx0VJJqUc
Here are some final pictures and a video of retracts working on the plane. Once I get to maiden it I'll report back how it flies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXbx0VJJqUc
#685
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarasota,
FL
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http://youtu.be/TlvuQJvG28k
A short video of aehaas Mustang gear. Notice the delay between the left and right gear. More scale like.
#686
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarasota,
FL
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Sliding canopy
http://youtu.be/6W5UhgMMiI4
aehaas sliding canopy. Notice the fuel filler. Actually works.
#691
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glenmoore,
PA
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http://youtu.be/TlvuQJvG28k
A short video of aehaas Mustang gear. Notice the delay between the left and right gear. More scale like.
#696
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glenmoore,
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Double posted glitch in my last response. Vertical Grimmace: on the guns, my real answer is because that would be fun for me. Just joking around and trying not to be to serious which is my tendency. I would love to see all the mods that builder's are making.
#699
Join Date: May 2014
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Hi all , I have 4 flights on my stang now I love it what a dream to fly. The only problem I've had is with the inner gear doors. Because of me potting the power 360 on it and pulling 140 amps I am going way faster than it was designed to go. So for those of you that have put bigger engines on your mustang I would recommend that you keep an eye on your doors. I am fixing the door now and will find a solution to keep the doors from being peeled out.