New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
05-27-2015, 12:06 PM
#876
Join Date: Jan 2006
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sjhanc,
I'm using an A123 battery. It has two leads, one a two pin plug and the other a three pin plug. I couldn't get the retracts to operate when connected with a two pin battery plug on the Aux or the receiver. I contacted Robart and they said the Aux will only work with a three pin plug. Sure enough, the retracts did operate with a three pin plug on Aux. But, the Battery on Aux will also operate the receiver and servos....with the receiver switch turned off. I have not been able to get the retracts to operate on the receiver side with a two pin plug. My goal is to use an Aux battery for the retracts and a separate battery for the receiver. What do I need to do to accomplish that? I know using an A123 battery with a three pin plug will interfere with the receiver. The status light will display a steady green light when a two pin plug battery plug is installed on the receiver side but nothing moves.
That is my problem. Not sure if the control box has a problem or not.
I'm using an A123 battery. It has two leads, one a two pin plug and the other a three pin plug. I couldn't get the retracts to operate when connected with a two pin battery plug on the Aux or the receiver. I contacted Robart and they said the Aux will only work with a three pin plug. Sure enough, the retracts did operate with a three pin plug on Aux. But, the Battery on Aux will also operate the receiver and servos....with the receiver switch turned off. I have not been able to get the retracts to operate on the receiver side with a two pin plug. My goal is to use an Aux battery for the retracts and a separate battery for the receiver. What do I need to do to accomplish that? I know using an A123 battery with a three pin plug will interfere with the receiver. The status light will display a steady green light when a two pin plug battery plug is installed on the receiver side but nothing moves.
That is my problem. Not sure if the control box has a problem or not.
05-27-2015, 02:10 PM
#877
speedbrake,
I checked the wiring on the ROBART controller my plane uses, this is what I have; I am using an eneloop NiMH 2000mah 5 cell mounted in the belly scoop. This battery has a 2 wire power lead terminating in a standard male J plug (no signal lead). This plugs into a standard receiver switch that has a separate 2 wire charge lead for connection to a battery charger (standard female J plug). The switch's 2 wire power lead (standard male J plug) goes into the AUX BAT port in the controller. The 3 wire charge switches only use the extra signal wire for binding/data, no power. Even if there is a signal lead in the battery power lead it is not connected (most battery manufacturers leave it out).
Next to the AUX BAT port is the 3 wire (signal, +, Ground), RX port (standard male J plug) from the gear channel in the receiver.
If you are using an A123 battery's 3 wire balance plug you are feeding battery voltage into the signal port on the controller. STOP DOING THIS, you can damage your receiver and servos.
Only signal voltage (+5 volts) should be on the signal lead. The signal lead can be yellow, white or light tan color depending on the brand of the lead. The plus is usually red and ground is black.
When powering up I turn on the transmitter power first, then turn on power to the Benedini sound amp.(the speakers will beep later), then turn on the landing gear power, next make sure the gear switch on the transmitter is in the same position the landing gear is in(up-down) and turn on the receiver. If you don't follow this sequence your gear controller may not go green indicating ready to go.
The A123 Battery's 3 wire plug is for charge balancing only, each of the 3 leads has a different purpose (ground, +3.7 volts, +3.7 volts fully charged).
I read the instruction sheet that comes with the controller and it says to use the supplied (male/male) lead to connect the receiver to the receiver port on the controller.
Something to watch for is the ports in the controller are not mechanically polarized like the receiver channel ports. It is possible to plug in a lead reversed into the controller and it won't work and may cause damage to the electronics through out the system. The controller ports are marked -+o to indicate polarity, it is up to you to do it right.
If you are using Futaba radio equipment the polarity remains the same as JR/Hitec/Airtronics. Just the plugs are different having a tab for polarity. Hobby shop people will tell you to grind this tab off to use Futaba wire extensions in other brands. If you do this it is up to you to get the polarity right-I don't recommend this. I have a relative who trashes a receiver every year doing this mix and match.
I hope this helps you,
steve
I checked the wiring on the ROBART controller my plane uses, this is what I have; I am using an eneloop NiMH 2000mah 5 cell mounted in the belly scoop. This battery has a 2 wire power lead terminating in a standard male J plug (no signal lead). This plugs into a standard receiver switch that has a separate 2 wire charge lead for connection to a battery charger (standard female J plug). The switch's 2 wire power lead (standard male J plug) goes into the AUX BAT port in the controller. The 3 wire charge switches only use the extra signal wire for binding/data, no power. Even if there is a signal lead in the battery power lead it is not connected (most battery manufacturers leave it out).
Next to the AUX BAT port is the 3 wire (signal, +, Ground), RX port (standard male J plug) from the gear channel in the receiver.
If you are using an A123 battery's 3 wire balance plug you are feeding battery voltage into the signal port on the controller. STOP DOING THIS, you can damage your receiver and servos.
Only signal voltage (+5 volts) should be on the signal lead. The signal lead can be yellow, white or light tan color depending on the brand of the lead. The plus is usually red and ground is black.
When powering up I turn on the transmitter power first, then turn on power to the Benedini sound amp.(the speakers will beep later), then turn on the landing gear power, next make sure the gear switch on the transmitter is in the same position the landing gear is in(up-down) and turn on the receiver. If you don't follow this sequence your gear controller may not go green indicating ready to go.
The A123 Battery's 3 wire plug is for charge balancing only, each of the 3 leads has a different purpose (ground, +3.7 volts, +3.7 volts fully charged).
I read the instruction sheet that comes with the controller and it says to use the supplied (male/male) lead to connect the receiver to the receiver port on the controller.
Something to watch for is the ports in the controller are not mechanically polarized like the receiver channel ports. It is possible to plug in a lead reversed into the controller and it won't work and may cause damage to the electronics through out the system. The controller ports are marked -+o to indicate polarity, it is up to you to do it right.
If you are using Futaba radio equipment the polarity remains the same as JR/Hitec/Airtronics. Just the plugs are different having a tab for polarity. Hobby shop people will tell you to grind this tab off to use Futaba wire extensions in other brands. If you do this it is up to you to get the polarity right-I don't recommend this. I have a relative who trashes a receiver every year doing this mix and match.
I hope this helps you,
steve
05-27-2015, 02:24 PM
#878
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Hi guys I have 30+ flights on my hangar 9 mustang I have only had a few teething issues with the eflite landing gear. By teething I'm taking about me learning how to operate them but the gear has no issues. My setup is one 2s 4000mah lipo plugged into a switch then to the gear controller. On the full scale p51 when taking off, they takeoff with some flaps the gear comes up as soon has the wheels leave the runway. Flaps stay down until gear is up then flaps up. When I take off with no flaps the mustang accelerates fast enough to stop the gear due to air loads even though it is almost all in the wheels wells. When I takeoff with half flaps make a scale takeoff. I don't just slam the throttle full to takeoff. I hit the gear switch gear up then flaps it works perfect every time. This gear work perfect for scale it is not a air system that can close in a second like the jets. This gear is way more reliable than the electric robart gear for the hangar 9 corsair and far more durable.
05-29-2015, 12:27 PM
#881
I've got quite a few flights on mine now, and have made a few changes from the manual. I've also helped a friend assemble his H9 Mustang and we used Spektrum 6270 servos for the inner gear doors.
Here's what I've done so far. If you are using the Spek 7040 servos for the gear doors, use a servo arm with the output hole at 1 1/4" out from center instead of the 1 1/2" recommended in the manual (black H9 clamp on servo arm). This will give you a little more leverage on the door. Next, adjust the servo arm location and linkage length so that with the door closed the servo arm travels nearly over-center with the linkage. In other words, the linkage and arm will form nearly a straight line. This will greatly reduce the load on the servo with the doors in the closed position. When you do this, you will have to deviate from the manual regarding the door servo settings in the retract controller. I set the up (doors closed) position to the full 60% and then set the down (doors open) % to give me clearance for the wheels to retract/extend. If you are looking for a way to operate just the doors as a test, do this... With the gear in the down position, toggle between the P-47 and P-51 gear door setting in the controller. That will open and close the doors only. I've had no trouble with the gear doors opening during flight. Check to make sure that the leading edge of your inner gear doors touch the gear door lip(stop) first. If the trailing edge touches first and the leading edge hangs open a little, you'll want to heat them a little with a heat gun and warp them so that the leading edge seats first. Both my friends airplane and mine did not need any warping on the doors. The full size Mustang has a similar setup on the inner gear doors. The actuator is near the trailing edge and the doors are made so that the leading edge of the doors hits first and a slight amount of torsion in the door is present when they are fully closed.
On my friend's -51, we used Spektrum 6270 servos for the doors and they have more power than the 7040s. We did however need to use the full length servo arms (1 1/2") to get enough travel to do the over-center linkage trick, and max'd out the travel in the controller for the gear doors (60% up and down) They work fine this way as there is virtually no load on the servo with the doors closed and the linkage over-center. You will want to slow the servos down some with the door speed setting in the retract controller... they move way too fast with the 6270s otherwise.
As for the gear themselves, they are sensitive to gear retraction at a high speed with the strut covers on. If you do as a previous poster suggested and takeoff at a slower speed and get the gear up soon you won't have a problem. I don't use flaps, but I do accelerate just enough to get in the air safely, and hit the gear switch. I'll even drop the throttle a hair after liftoff to try to avoid picking up too much speed. Occasionally I still won't get it right and I just put the flaps down, slow down, and cycle the gear again and they go up.
If you are having a problem with the gear not coming down, it's usually the strut or wheel binding in the wheel well somewhere that prevents the gear from unlocking. That happens with pneumatic gear as well. I've had to adjust the strut "length" some by loosening the clamp on the retract trunion to find a happy spot where the strut and strut cover linkages are not hitting the wheel well. I ended up about 1/16"-1/8" shorter than what they recommend in the manual.
The last fun thing that I like to do is this. When you first power on the radio, the inner gear doors will open. I then put my flaps fully down. I then go about my normal routine and start the engine. As soon as it fires, I quickly blip the gear switch to the up position and then back to the down position. This will close the doors and leave the gear down. Then I quickly put the flaps up. This simulates what happens when the real Mustang starts up and builds hydraulic pressure. The inner doors close, and then the flaps come up slowly after that.
KennyMac
Here's what I've done so far. If you are using the Spek 7040 servos for the gear doors, use a servo arm with the output hole at 1 1/4" out from center instead of the 1 1/2" recommended in the manual (black H9 clamp on servo arm). This will give you a little more leverage on the door. Next, adjust the servo arm location and linkage length so that with the door closed the servo arm travels nearly over-center with the linkage. In other words, the linkage and arm will form nearly a straight line. This will greatly reduce the load on the servo with the doors in the closed position. When you do this, you will have to deviate from the manual regarding the door servo settings in the retract controller. I set the up (doors closed) position to the full 60% and then set the down (doors open) % to give me clearance for the wheels to retract/extend. If you are looking for a way to operate just the doors as a test, do this... With the gear in the down position, toggle between the P-47 and P-51 gear door setting in the controller. That will open and close the doors only. I've had no trouble with the gear doors opening during flight. Check to make sure that the leading edge of your inner gear doors touch the gear door lip(stop) first. If the trailing edge touches first and the leading edge hangs open a little, you'll want to heat them a little with a heat gun and warp them so that the leading edge seats first. Both my friends airplane and mine did not need any warping on the doors. The full size Mustang has a similar setup on the inner gear doors. The actuator is near the trailing edge and the doors are made so that the leading edge of the doors hits first and a slight amount of torsion in the door is present when they are fully closed.
On my friend's -51, we used Spektrum 6270 servos for the doors and they have more power than the 7040s. We did however need to use the full length servo arms (1 1/2") to get enough travel to do the over-center linkage trick, and max'd out the travel in the controller for the gear doors (60% up and down) They work fine this way as there is virtually no load on the servo with the doors closed and the linkage over-center. You will want to slow the servos down some with the door speed setting in the retract controller... they move way too fast with the 6270s otherwise.
As for the gear themselves, they are sensitive to gear retraction at a high speed with the strut covers on. If you do as a previous poster suggested and takeoff at a slower speed and get the gear up soon you won't have a problem. I don't use flaps, but I do accelerate just enough to get in the air safely, and hit the gear switch. I'll even drop the throttle a hair after liftoff to try to avoid picking up too much speed. Occasionally I still won't get it right and I just put the flaps down, slow down, and cycle the gear again and they go up.
If you are having a problem with the gear not coming down, it's usually the strut or wheel binding in the wheel well somewhere that prevents the gear from unlocking. That happens with pneumatic gear as well. I've had to adjust the strut "length" some by loosening the clamp on the retract trunion to find a happy spot where the strut and strut cover linkages are not hitting the wheel well. I ended up about 1/16"-1/8" shorter than what they recommend in the manual.
The last fun thing that I like to do is this. When you first power on the radio, the inner gear doors will open. I then put my flaps fully down. I then go about my normal routine and start the engine. As soon as it fires, I quickly blip the gear switch to the up position and then back to the down position. This will close the doors and leave the gear down. Then I quickly put the flaps up. This simulates what happens when the real Mustang starts up and builds hydraulic pressure. The inner doors close, and then the flaps come up slowly after that.
KennyMac
05-29-2015, 11:31 PM
#882
I have been advised by Horizon sales that the ROBART air retracts I ordered for my H 9 60cc P 51D on May 8 have been shipped. They were on backorder at the time so I think 20 days is not too bad. I have completed most of the assembly and applying the details and had put it aside to work on my P 51 B electric to get it ready for the new flying season that starts at the end of August in Florida. It will still be hot then but it begins to cool down during September and we have excellent flying weather until May.
I won't know the final gross weight until the gear is install and any necessary ballast for balance. I weighed the TF GS P 51 B and ready to fly it is at 30.5 lbs. The larger Hanger 9 60cc P51D is at 26.5 lbs. now minus fuel and nose weight. I have been installing all the equipment as far forward as possible to minimize the need for nose weight.
I won't know the final gross weight until the gear is install and any necessary ballast for balance. I weighed the TF GS P 51 B and ready to fly it is at 30.5 lbs. The larger Hanger 9 60cc P51D is at 26.5 lbs. now minus fuel and nose weight. I have been installing all the equipment as far forward as possible to minimize the need for nose weight.
05-30-2015, 05:41 AM
#883
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I have been advised by Horizon sales that the ROBART air retracts I ordered for my H 9 60cc P 51D on May 8 have been shipped. They were on backorder at the time so I think 20 days is not too bad. I have completed most of the assembly and applying the details and had put it aside to work on my P 51 B electric to get it ready for the new flying season that starts at the end of August in Florida. It will still be hot then but it begins to cool down during September and we have excellent flying weather until May.
I won't know the final gross weight until the gear is install and any necessary ballast for balance. I weighed the TF GS P 51 B and ready to fly it is at 30.5 lbs. The larger Hanger 9 60cc P51D is at 26.5 lbs. now minus fuel and nose weight. I have been installing all the equipment as far forward as possible to minimize the need for nose weight.
I won't know the final gross weight until the gear is install and any necessary ballast for balance. I weighed the TF GS P 51 B and ready to fly it is at 30.5 lbs. The larger Hanger 9 60cc P51D is at 26.5 lbs. now minus fuel and nose weight. I have been installing all the equipment as far forward as possible to minimize the need for nose weight.
Nick
05-30-2015, 08:03 AM
#884
nsyracuse,
Yes it is carrying a 24 cell 6600mah LIPO pack for the Motor (5 lbs.), a Benedini sound system and Battery (4s LIPO 2200mah), 2 NiMH 5 cell receiver packs (4000mah, 1 lb.), ROBART electric retracts with 1 NiMH 5 cell (2000mah) and depending on the motor used either a GRAUPNER 22x12 2 blade prop or a Varioprop 22.6x18inch 4 blade prop.
The 2 blade prop has been clocked at 114 mph level flight and the 4 blade prop reached 124 mph level flight (no dives to get speed).
Vertical performance is incredible with either prop and I have tested other props that give better vertical, just not as fast. Spectators like the 22-12 best because of the loud prop rip- the 4 blade is quiet at all power settings-it uses less current and gives more duration. Other pilots have reported even higher speeds using the 4 blade, I am a little conservative on the throttle because I had my first TF GS ARF P 51 D fuse break in half doing radar speed runs, for a FL highway patrol officer member of my club.
When I have a DA 50R installed climb is good and top speed full throttle is 105-108 mph but the DA can't turn the high rpms that the electric motors will. Weight with the DA 50 R and fuel is about 25 lbs. gross. The best prop for the DA is the Graupner 22-12 and a full throttle run into a vertical climb will reach 600 feet and gradually slow requiring a turn out at about 800 feet. The electric motors don't slow in the climb- it just gets too small to see.
When I fly with other warbirds I wait until they are all in the air, then take off, accelerate on up to them and lead the pack then land first at about 7 minutes. My plane's only performance disadvantage is less duration than gas. I never flew the DA longer than 10 minutes per flight so it is a small price to pay for that kind of performance.
Because of the extra weight I bought a new wing and installed slotted flap hinging with scale P 51 flap hinge location. This allows solid no-stall landings and it will take off at 23 mph with 20 degrees flap and land at 28-33 mph with 45 degrees flap.
Yes it is carrying a 24 cell 6600mah LIPO pack for the Motor (5 lbs.), a Benedini sound system and Battery (4s LIPO 2200mah), 2 NiMH 5 cell receiver packs (4000mah, 1 lb.), ROBART electric retracts with 1 NiMH 5 cell (2000mah) and depending on the motor used either a GRAUPNER 22x12 2 blade prop or a Varioprop 22.6x18inch 4 blade prop.
The 2 blade prop has been clocked at 114 mph level flight and the 4 blade prop reached 124 mph level flight (no dives to get speed).
Vertical performance is incredible with either prop and I have tested other props that give better vertical, just not as fast. Spectators like the 22-12 best because of the loud prop rip- the 4 blade is quiet at all power settings-it uses less current and gives more duration. Other pilots have reported even higher speeds using the 4 blade, I am a little conservative on the throttle because I had my first TF GS ARF P 51 D fuse break in half doing radar speed runs, for a FL highway patrol officer member of my club.
When I have a DA 50R installed climb is good and top speed full throttle is 105-108 mph but the DA can't turn the high rpms that the electric motors will. Weight with the DA 50 R and fuel is about 25 lbs. gross. The best prop for the DA is the Graupner 22-12 and a full throttle run into a vertical climb will reach 600 feet and gradually slow requiring a turn out at about 800 feet. The electric motors don't slow in the climb- it just gets too small to see.
When I fly with other warbirds I wait until they are all in the air, then take off, accelerate on up to them and lead the pack then land first at about 7 minutes. My plane's only performance disadvantage is less duration than gas. I never flew the DA longer than 10 minutes per flight so it is a small price to pay for that kind of performance.
Because of the extra weight I bought a new wing and installed slotted flap hinging with scale P 51 flap hinge location. This allows solid no-stall landings and it will take off at 23 mph with 20 degrees flap and land at 28-33 mph with 45 degrees flap.
05-30-2015, 09:54 AM
#886
Hi,
Any of you guys have this issue? The scoop doesn't fit well. I'm not sure if the gap between the fuse and the leading edge (where the dowel pins are) is too wide. The scoop sticks up just over an 1/8th" and is cocked to the side.
Any of you guys have this issue? The scoop doesn't fit well. I'm not sure if the gap between the fuse and the leading edge (where the dowel pins are) is too wide. The scoop sticks up just over an 1/8th" and is cocked to the side.
05-30-2015, 10:22 AM
#887
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Yes, mine was straight, but not flush. My friends was not straight or flush. From 6' away, you can't see it.
05-30-2015, 10:35 AM
#888
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Wow, that's a lot of battery! I went electric on a smaller mustang. .60 size 8s. After two flights I was waiting on them to charge while other people were flying so I go has on the big ones. Can fly all day, just add fuel, and the 10-15 min flight time is great! I can usually fly with two sets of warbird flights on one flight. Performance is good enough. 110 mph straight and level and plenty of vertical, but not unlimited. My top flite with dle-55ra would hover on a 22x10. i also didn't want to make the investment in the large batteries, but both have there advantages. You can definitely get more power out of electrics and no tuning.
nsyracuse,
Yes it is carrying a 24 cell 6600mah LIPO pack for the Motor (5 lbs.), a Benedini sound system and Battery (4s LIPO 2200mah), 2 NiMH 5 cell receiver packs (4000mah, 1 lb.), ROBART electric retracts with 1 NiMH 5 cell (2000mah) and depending on the motor used either a GRAUPNER 22x12 2 blade prop or a Varioprop 22.6x18inch 4 blade prop.
The 2 blade prop has been clocked at 114 mph level flight and the 4 blade prop reached 124 mph level flight (no dives to get speed).
Vertical performance is incredible with either prop and I have tested other props that give better vertical, just not as fast. Spectators like the 22-12 best because of the loud prop rip- the 4 blade is quiet at all power settings-it uses less current and gives more duration. Other pilots have reported even higher speeds using the 4 blade, I am a little conservative on the throttle because I had my first TF GS ARF P 51 D fuse break in half doing radar speed runs, for a FL highway patrol officer member of my club.
When I have a DA 50R installed climb is good and top speed full throttle is 105-108 mph but the DA can't turn the high rpms that the electric motors will. Weight with the DA 50 R and fuel is about 25 lbs. gross. The best prop for the DA is the Graupner 22-12 and a full throttle run into a vertical climb will reach 600 feet and gradually slow requiring a turn out at about 800 feet. The electric motors don't slow in the climb- it just gets too small to see.
When I fly with other warbirds I wait until they are all in the air, then take off, accelerate on up to them and lead the pack then land first at about 7 minutes. My plane's only performance disadvantage is less duration than gas. I never flew the DA longer than 10 minutes per flight so it is a small price to pay for that kind of performance.
Because of the extra weight I bought a new wing and installed slotted flap hinging with scale P 51 flap hinge location. This allows solid no-stall landings and it will take off at 23 mph with 20 degrees flap and land at 28-33 mph with 45 degrees flap.
Yes it is carrying a 24 cell 6600mah LIPO pack for the Motor (5 lbs.), a Benedini sound system and Battery (4s LIPO 2200mah), 2 NiMH 5 cell receiver packs (4000mah, 1 lb.), ROBART electric retracts with 1 NiMH 5 cell (2000mah) and depending on the motor used either a GRAUPNER 22x12 2 blade prop or a Varioprop 22.6x18inch 4 blade prop.
The 2 blade prop has been clocked at 114 mph level flight and the 4 blade prop reached 124 mph level flight (no dives to get speed).
Vertical performance is incredible with either prop and I have tested other props that give better vertical, just not as fast. Spectators like the 22-12 best because of the loud prop rip- the 4 blade is quiet at all power settings-it uses less current and gives more duration. Other pilots have reported even higher speeds using the 4 blade, I am a little conservative on the throttle because I had my first TF GS ARF P 51 D fuse break in half doing radar speed runs, for a FL highway patrol officer member of my club.
When I have a DA 50R installed climb is good and top speed full throttle is 105-108 mph but the DA can't turn the high rpms that the electric motors will. Weight with the DA 50 R and fuel is about 25 lbs. gross. The best prop for the DA is the Graupner 22-12 and a full throttle run into a vertical climb will reach 600 feet and gradually slow requiring a turn out at about 800 feet. The electric motors don't slow in the climb- it just gets too small to see.
When I fly with other warbirds I wait until they are all in the air, then take off, accelerate on up to them and lead the pack then land first at about 7 minutes. My plane's only performance disadvantage is less duration than gas. I never flew the DA longer than 10 minutes per flight so it is a small price to pay for that kind of performance.
Because of the extra weight I bought a new wing and installed slotted flap hinging with scale P 51 flap hinge location. This allows solid no-stall landings and it will take off at 23 mph with 20 degrees flap and land at 28-33 mph with 45 degrees flap.
05-30-2015, 10:51 AM
#889
The scoop on mine is a good fit, look at the gap between the fuse and top of the wing. If the fit of the wing dowels is too tight the wing may be shifted back enough to lower the scoop. I had this problem with one of my TF ARF P 51s and it turned out to be the solid block part of the wing trailing edge at the center had been incorrectly sanded (too thick). It wasn't easy to fix, had to remove a lot of covering and block sand it to the correct shape. The mistake affected the sheeting also.
05-30-2015, 11:17 AM
#890
The main reason I went electric with this plane is the 4 blade prop and Merlin sounds. My H 9 P 51 will be gas at least for a while. It will be able to carry much larger battery packs for duration as good as gas without giving up any performance. And Ramoser Varioprop is already developing a high performance 4 blade Hamilton Standard prop. I am not a fan of the drones but I have watched their power demands push the development of very large capacity LIPOs. With GS warbirds in the 90 inch and larger wingspans electrics become much more practical. The smaller planes have to have their structure lightened to the point of being frail in order to carry enough battery capacity and their flight duration is always short.
05-31-2015, 05:51 PM
#891
Would one of you pilots that has bought the H-9 P 51 spinner please measure it and tell me what diameter it is. The reason I ask is I measured the front of my plane and it is 5.5 inches diameter, The specs I have for the H-9 spinner is 5.25 inches. I don't want to buy an expensive part that is wrong size and can't be returned.
06-01-2015, 08:28 AM
#895
Hehe,
For me, at least, it's because I want the largest possible arc showing when the tips are painted. The Mustang had a gigantic prop for its size. Also, once you start the engine, the only difference between a two-blade prop and a four-blade prop is perceived on a nose-over. The four-blade prop makes a MUCH louder "Cha-CHING!" than the two-blade.
06-01-2015, 08:32 AM
#896
BH,
Thanks. Did you have any issues with the gear retracting? I mean, did you have to come up with a procedure to keep the airflow over the gear and doors down to get them to retract or deploy reliably?
Thanks. Did you have any issues with the gear retracting? I mean, did you have to come up with a procedure to keep the airflow over the gear and doors down to get them to retract or deploy reliably?
06-01-2015, 09:38 AM
#897
YA,
I had the same issue with the wing/scoop fit on my Mustang. The wing is not sliding forward enough to let the scoop sit flush with the bottom of the fuse. I ended up removing some material on the wing saddle near the leading edge that was keeping the wing from moving forward.
No problems with the tailwheel on both of the planes that I have worked on. Had to fiddle a little with the length of the spring on the tailwheel doors to get them both closed.
KMac
I had the same issue with the wing/scoop fit on my Mustang. The wing is not sliding forward enough to let the scoop sit flush with the bottom of the fuse. I ended up removing some material on the wing saddle near the leading edge that was keeping the wing from moving forward.
No problems with the tailwheel on both of the planes that I have worked on. Had to fiddle a little with the length of the spring on the tailwheel doors to get them both closed.
KMac
06-01-2015, 02:30 PM
#898
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Yellow,
on my scoop it was just like yours when the wing was not bolted down to the fuse. bolt the scoop on with the wing if its still off then sand the flange on the top of the scoop that touches the wing and some of the sheeting thier if need be. i would suggest glueing the scoop on.