InboundLZ

My Feedback: (10)

Guys, Im considering this plane. I have a new DA85, will this engine fit/work with this airframe?

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

Has any one found the best or most rearward CG? I started at the recommended CG and, because of having to add what I consider an excessive amount of up elevator trim for level flight I have moved the CG back twice. I am still having to add a considerable amount of up trim. Even looking at the elevators they have a lot of up trim.
My plane weighs 27 lbs. plus fuel. After 9 flights I think this is the best flying P 51 I have ever flown and I have owned a bunch of them. I made the mistake of using the kit supplied clevises and they all cracked at the pin hole. I have changed them all out for the trouble free brands I have used in my other P 51 models.

Acs_guitars

My Feedback: (3)

Ours came out perfect using the factory CG measurement.
I will say on the 30cc Spitfire it took over a pound of weight on a tray I built over the motor to meet the factory CG. This proved too nose heavy in the first flights. So, I just spent one afternoon with the cowl off doing CG tests. I slowly removed all but about 4 oz of the weight until she just tucked to the nose instead of a dramatic drop on an inverted 45 degree up line.

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

At the factory recommend CG it kept going over on the nose when up on the mains for takeoff and landing. After removing the 8 ounce nose weight and then later moving both receiver batteries back in the fuse it has stopped the nose overs. It still wants a lot of up trim to fly level. I have the fuel tank as far back as possible so I expect a little nose heavy fuel weight at least until it burns some off. I am using the same DA 50R that was previously in my TF B model and it is noticeably faster than the B model was.

fhollahan

Mine is set at the middle of the recommended CG with about 14 oz. of extra weight right behind the nose in the top of the fuse. My total weight is slightly over 29 lbs. It flies ever so slightly nose heavy but I have no trim in the elevator and it flies great and almost floats in for a landing on half flaps. Mains down I get a little pull over with the drag but almost unnoticeable.

Len Todd

What are most folks doing about a spinner? I ordered one of HH's a while back and it came w/o a back plate. Then they sent me a backplate w/o any paint on the O.D.. I sent it all back. Now that I am back to finishing the plane, I need a spinner. Maybe I may also want a 3-blade prop. Maybe now is the time to move to 3. So, ... What are most folks doing here?

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

I use the Dave Brown Vortec.

Len Todd

I am considering Dave's products. I have several. Did you paint your spinner to match the HH spinner? If yes, how did you accomplish the painting (e.g. templates, etc.)?

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

I haven't painted it yet and nobody seems to notice. Since I mainly fly in Giant scale and warbird flyins and no competition it is not really necessary to paint it.
When I flew scale events I painted all of them but the balancing is a real hassle. It would be better to get a True-Turn anodized in the main color you need and mask the rest.

mark IX

My Feedback: (9)

Steve, earlier in this thread you mentioned using a "6 pack of 3200maH, 4S 30C lipos, wired 12S 2P" for your TF P-51. Does this mean you have (3) 4S packs in series? And each 4S pack was wired 2p when you bought them? Or do you have 6 batteries (6 pack) in another config. to end up with 12S?

Thanx, Mark

chris923

My Feedback: (53)

I have painted Dave Brown's and True Turns with Rustoleum. I use a HD Starter and have yet take the paint off of any of them.

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

MARK IX,
Sorry to take so long to reply, I went flying my new H 9 60cc P 51 D. Here is a picture of the flight pack I use in the Electric P 51 B. As you can see they are 6, 4 cell lipos wired 12s 2 p (3, 4 cell batteries in series, then in parallel with another 12s pack for 44.4 volts nominal, 50 volts fully charged. As each cell only sees 1/2 the current load they don't get hot and because the amp draw is lower than a 12s pack they discharge in a more efficient manner giving a noticeable increase in duration.
For instance, my 12s 45c 5300mah packs are good for 5 minutes plus maybe 1 or 2 approaches, then are so hot they must cool for an hour before recharge.
These 12s 2p 30c 3300mah (6600mah total) give me 7 minutes plus 2 approaches and are at 110 F so can be put right on the charger and have delivered 4900mah out of 6600mah total while the 5300mah packs are depleted and have lost power several times in flight causing premature landings. Luckily I managed to get it back to the runway each time, so in spite of a couple of belly landings across the runway, no damage.
The wiring you see, I created from 2, 2s deans harnesses by adding another deans plug(the white jumper wires). The parallel plug copies one I bought from EBAY that I did not think could handle the total current it would see so I used 100 amp cell connectors to connect the tabs on the deans plugs (2 male 1 female) for the ESC connection.
While the wiring is a little complex I don't get any hot wires or connectors and the harness stays in the plane, only the packs are removed for charging.
I use Red Schofield's anti spark switch to prevent welding arcs when arming the motor for flight (MODEL AVIATION, a few years back). I understand you can buy these already wired.
I can highly recommend this pack configuration for advantages in lower operating temperatures, much cheaper cost of the 4 cell packs and better flight duration.

mark IX

My Feedback: (9)

Got it. So you connected ea of the 4S packs in series with ea other to create a 12S pack @ 3300maH. Then you connected ea 12S pack together, in parallel, to double the maH rating to 6600maH, keeping the assembly at 12S . If you had bought 4S 2P packs at first, could you have accomplished this with less packs, and less weight?

BTW, how's the H9 P-51 working out? I have my eye on that next.

Mark

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

MARK IX,
The 4s 2p packs might make the wiring simpler, I just never looked for them. I got tired of having a cell puff or go dead and then having to replace the whole pack. The 4s packs are cheap and easy to find and replacements are usually available, not like the 6s packs which are limited production and finding new ones exactly the same is hard. Even the same manufacturer changes the specs so you can't match them with packs you already have, and they are expensive.
I am planning to buy another H 9 P 51 D and convert it to a B model just to have a different plane on the flight line. It gets some announcers confused- when they see it some call it a P 40 or ME 109.
In my opinion it is the Best flying Mustang I have ever flown. This week I flew it in strong crosswinds and today the wind was down the runway but gusty 10-15mph. It handles it all, the rudder is very powerful making crosswinds and knife-edge easier. It will climb in knife-edge, not like my TF B model which drops any time I lower a wing or throttle back. The H 9 glides even at dead slow idle and I have yet to fly it slow enough to stall.
I had to modify its flap horns to correct a blowback tendency that hurt flap effectiveness. With the stock flap linkage setup I could pull the flaps back 1 1/2 inches from full deflection. I noticed this happening when I watched videos of my landings. The new linkage setup is rigid at both ends of the flap travel.

WarbirdPilots

My Feedback: (209)

Hello, My name is Adam Martin of Warbird Pilots. www.warbirdpilots.com I have been getting a lot of questions lately as to which pilot fits the Hangar 9 P-51 Mustang 60cc. So I wanted to take a second to show you the pilot I offer for this aircraft and how it fits.

The pilot is the 15" Tall, 1/4.5 ~ 1/4 Scale WWII USAAF Pilot Figure.
http://www.warbirdpilots.com/RC_Pilo...-1-4-figur.htm



Now you may be asking yourself, why does this plane take almost a 1/4 scale pilot. Well, after doing some test fitting, I quickly realized that the cockpit in this aircraft is incredible deep and the 1/6 ~ 1/5 Scale 12" tall pilot looks like a child that can't see over the steering wheel. It literally disappears. So I stepped up to the 15" tall 1/4.5 ~ 1/4 Scale pilot and it is a drop in fit. Which is nice as you will not have to modify any part of the cockpit, and be able to focus on other parts of the plane.

As you can see the pilot comes with all that is shown. Pilots come completely dressed and ready to install. The figure comes with a beautifully painted head and highly detailed clothing and equipment specific to the USAAF. I also made all the clothing, accessories, and equipment fully removable to allow you to change the pilot and give it your own personal look. Finally, I designed it with a wire frame, cotton body that is incredibly light (7 ounces) and allows it to be manipulated and bent in any position.

As you can see from the pictures below, the entire figure fits incredibly well, and is very easy to adjust and to sit in the exact location you want. One advantage with the wire frame cotton body is that the figures seated height can be adjusted just by bending the figure further up or down its waist. That will allow the figure to sit higher or lower in the seat and get his eyes to look right down the gun sight.



Don't forget to look at the servo operated moving head option. I install a Standard Hitec Servo in the figures chest allowing the head to be moved left and right. If you add this option, the figure will come complete with a wire coming out his pants, ready to plug and play.
http://www.warbirdpilots.com/product_p/servo-head.htm

I hope this helps you decide the correct size pilot to fit into your Hangar 9 P-51 Mustang 60cc. Feel free to call or email me with any questions or if you just want to talk shop. I have been flying for 25 years and love warbirds.

Adam Martin
www.warbirdpilots.com
Business: 203-528-4352
[email protected]

riverfront

Hi guys , Maybe its in here somewhere but has anyone tried the robart Elec. retracts just wonder how they compared to the E-flite? I ordered the plane and didn't realize it was the robart gear they have in optional equipment.
Thanks

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

I have the Robarts in mine. I bought them because the electrics take too long to cycle. I tried electric retracts in my TF GS P 51 for a year and have switched that plane back to air. Both types suffer from air drag stalling the struts on the way up. I don't know how to modify electrics but I have found the cause of the stalling with the air type. I have rounded off a machined edge in one spot on the cam barrel that digs into the plastic in the front housing and stopping the movement up into the locked position.
They are not as pretty as the EFlite electrics but these are Sport scale ARFs not eligible for the advanced scale events. Besides the cost of the 3 gears is cheaper plus the Air kit

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

One minus for the Robarts is that they are not a drop in fit, taking a lot of Dremel work and even grinding one edge of the frame to get them in. Once they are in they are easy to get in and out and the Eflites will still fit.

riverfront

Yeah I have a TF with Robart air too and they have always worked great. I got caught up in the cool factor of the e-flite electric gear and was going to give them a try.
They have the Robart electric's under the opptional equipment so I just ordered them not paying attention to the part number so I have Robart electrict's coming.

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

Here is a picture of the modified part. You can see the original machined 45 degree corner that I think causes the strut to stall when an edge digs in to the up lock slot in the front housing and wears the plastic away. The ground area is from 9:30 to 11:30 from the center of the hole(it looks flat in the picture but is rounded off). I discovered this when I noticed that the wheels began to drop out of the wing in G maneuvers. I found that this part was carving a rounded wear channel in the plastic front housing. I filled the worn area with JB Weld steel epoxy and then rounded off the part of the cam that was digging in to the slot. When the epoxy steel cures hard (24 hrs.) I filed it flat to restore it to the original shape. I was surprised to find this much wear after only 25 flights.

riverfront

Sounds like you got it figured out. You got me thinking now though going to look at mine tomorrow, having a hard time visualizing where that would be rubbing. Can you get a picture of it up in the lock slot?

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

I searched through my junk retract parts and found 2 cam assemblies from my first TF GS Mustang that wore enough to make them sloppy (the struts wobble side to side). These 2 don't have the 45 degree bevel on the corner where the tooth pick indicates. And I don't remember having gear hang-ups with that plane. The later gear sets all have the bevel that I rounded at the spot where the toothpick indicates. here is the set of Robart electrics I bought for the TF plane. Notice that they have double cam assemblies on the trunnion and the cam blocks are square. These retracts were mostly reliable with extremely low current draw(typical was .5 amps with both struts moving). Current draw may have been higher in the air. I only became aware that one strut had stalled when a friend showed me a hi-res picture of it in flight. And then only that one time. My reason for replacing them was that they took 10+ seconds to cycle up or down. This might not be a problem with a gas powered plane but the P 51 B they were installed in was electric powered and current draw (on the motor, ESC, and flight pack) during the 20 second takeoff and climb out was excessive (145-185) amps until they were in the wing. And landing current draw during a 30 second approach until touchdown was almost as bad. These 2 flight modes took 2 minutes off the flight duration, so I put an air system in the plane to take that load off of the power system. I don't know if the square cam blocks will need to be rounded on the corners so if the H 9 set you received has them I would try them as-is first. I know that Robart has standardized the trunions between the air and electrics, probably so they wont have to procure and stock 2 different parts that are interchangeable.

riverfront

Thanks a lot for taking the time to do that good information. I really wanted to try the E-flite retract's guess i'll get the robarts here then decide. I finally took a little time and looked back through this thread are you happy with the compact jtec on your DA 60 looks like it fits with no cutting?

sjhanc

My Feedback: (3)

I am actually using the DA 50r and while I was warned it would be too small for this plane the light weight, top speed and vertical climb are far better than I expected. My plan to later change to a bigger engine is on hold, I really enjoy flying a warbird with a light wing loading. My TF Mustang has a 55 once per square foot wing loading and flies like a brick with fins while the H 9 plane's wing loading is a little more than 40 ounces per sq. ft. and will actually glide back to the runway if the motor stops. Even though the electric plane is faster and climbs a little better vertically speed ain't everything. I have to be on my toes constantly and concentrate on smooth flying and precise speed control for landings, it is high stress all the time. The H 9 Mustang has a wider speed range, is hard to stall and landing speeds are 20 mph slower than the TF Mustang- low stress and more relaxed flying. When they work the bugs out of manufacturing it everyone who likes Mustangs are going to want to own one.
When I take it out to my club field I am approached every time by other pilots and spectators too who are impressed with what they see flying. Add the fairly accurate scale outlines that don't need any changes and it is a very nice combination of ARF features and flying ability.
While you need to be careful to select a good engine-muffler package that will fit and it needs careful attention to engine cooling there seems to be a large variety of power options that will work fine.
Also the muffler I am using is one I made myself from steel stock I got from ACE hardware and welded up. I have a Jtec for a larger engine that I adapted to fit but the manifold part is too thick to fit inside the cowling without an ugly cutout. I had to relieve the engine box for the steel muffler but it all fits inside with only holes for the exhaust exit. when I do the next one I will build a custom muffler for it.

riverfront

Guess that was fhollahan who has the DA60. I should enjoy the H9 if it flys that good TF is all I have flown. Anyway thanks again for the info. I will
check back when I get going on this thing.