Using over the counter spay paint on Warbirds
#26
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I really like Model Masters enamels too but they don't sell it in large amounts for the larger projects. or do they? Enamels are by far the safest paint to shoot with the drawback they take a while to dry. Clears: Unfortunately I have never found a crystal clear clearcoat that wasn't deadly to shoot. I tried Transtar Jammin Clear which is a 1k non-catalyzed and it went down fine and looked nice for a little while but over a long period of time tends to crack.
Last edited by dbsonic; 04-14-2014 at 03:44 PM.
#27
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Thanks Tom: I am building a 1/3 scale Spacewalker and do plan on covering it with Solartex. I just may give the Rustoleum a try. It comes in colors very close to what I am looking for.
Bill
Bill
#28
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From a custom painter... My name is Rod, and I do custom show cars and bike,,,,and sometimes a plane...lol...MANY times... Dupla color was VERY good about 5 years ago, I think they changed the stuff!! it doesnt work worth a damn now!! I used it on glow and gas, with no problem, and now it seems to be a fail no matter what I do...if you wanted to paint the corsair, go to the local Jobber' Paint store for automotive. but a basecoat/clearcoat product... dont need spendy,, but it WILL work and hold up to glow or gas...if you spill glow on your car, it don't ruin it right?? well its the same stuff... "I just know how RCU is, someone will question it".. its not a spray can though... keep it clean.... for the clear,,,,find a product call 2K.... the clear comes in flat or gloss,,,READ the instructions on the can!!! it has to be activated..
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1
GOOD STUFF for the do it yourself-er
NOW..... you CAN use dupla-color THEN 2K over it....LIGHT COATS. I would put 2 light coats on, let sit over night,,,then clear first thing in the morning.....2K will be good for 24 hours I think, again, read the can!! if you want the flat look. use 2k flat, and do the same steps... you will have one hell of a nice corsair!!!...
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1
GOOD STUFF for the do it yourself-er
NOW..... you CAN use dupla-color THEN 2K over it....LIGHT COATS. I would put 2 light coats on, let sit over night,,,then clear first thing in the morning.....2K will be good for 24 hours I think, again, read the can!! if you want the flat look. use 2k flat, and do the same steps... you will have one hell of a nice corsair!!!...
#29
My 1/3 Spacewalker is covered in Solartex and painted with Rustoleum. I used my gun and quart cans, though.
#30
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http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...crylic-enamel/
i didn't realize that they have acrylic's too !! that the way to go . that stuff is indestructible
i didn't realize that they have acrylic's too !! that the way to go . that stuff is indestructible
#32
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I was at Lowe's or Home Depot the last time that I bought latex. There were empty spray cans on the counter with a charge unit to spray latex that were filled by the person at the counter. I didn't try it and used a detail gun from Harbor Freight with an air compressor. But it might be worth a try on a test surface. Any color can be mixed for the empty can from a color chip that you bring in. Since I don't compete, I just walked to the designer shade section and picked out some colors that matched the book that I have. I have had good success with Minwax polyurethane satin our of a spray can as protection against glow fuel over Krylon and Rustoleum. I am going to try it on the latex; mainly because the latex seems to pick up dirty finger prints easily. I have used Dow bathroom cleaner with a damp sponge to take grease smudges out of the latex on the inside walls of my house. It has worked every time without discoloring the paint. That being said, do a test spot in a not very noticeable place.
http://www.scrubbingbubbles.com/Prod...m-cleaner.aspx
Brian
http://www.scrubbingbubbles.com/Prod...m-cleaner.aspx
Brian
Last edited by deatonbt; 04-14-2014 at 04:40 PM.
#34
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When using he Rusotleum Aluminum, I was told hat you should wipe t own after it as dried. If you should paint over it before wiping it down that your paint will come off in sheets. I shot the aluminum under all my Model Masters to simulate aluminum when weathering is done. Model Masters does pretty good when it comes to weathering. Steel wool etc. I have also taken a bottle of Model Masters to the hardware store to have them match the colors. A lot cheaper than if you were to use all Model Masters paint.
#35
I have used Rustoleum right out of the can, brushing it on my Chipmunk and it looks pretty good, however I ran into one issue, the white turned yellow. I have no idea why, but its no longer bright white as it came out of the can, and I did the wing and fuse at different times, both yellowed. But I know its fuel proof, I pour some right out of the bottle and let it sit, not one mark.
#36
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That's one of the problems, not only with whites but also clears. And it is hard to know it will happen as it takes a while for it to occur but I suspect only automotive urethanes are guaranteed not to yellow for a long while. Even a good gelcoat will begin to yellow in the course of about 10 to 15 years.
#39
I haven't tried it, so do a test panel, but I'd be that if light coats of Lustrekote were sprayed over latex, you could get away with it.
Light coats, are the key words. Let the paint set up thoroughly between coats.
If using automotive clear, why would you want to spray Lustrekote over it ? You'd be spraying over a superior product with one of lesser quality.
#41
Auto paint with hardener, is fuel proof. Flatteners can be added to adjust gloss.
I just painted my Ryan Brougham with automotive paint, adding a hardener and flex additive. Flatteners could easily be added.
Talk to your automotive paint supplier. They are usually very supportive of hobbiests, like us.
I just painted my Ryan Brougham with automotive paint, adding a hardener and flex additive. Flatteners could easily be added.
Talk to your automotive paint supplier. They are usually very supportive of hobbiests, like us.
#42
BTW, back when I did mine there was a big question about Rustoleum Primer being fuelproof so I used Lusterkote Primer, Inexpensive, sandable and fuelproof.
#43
#45
#48
Lacquer is tough to paint over many common paints. Latex and alkyd enamels are among them. It can probably be done, by spraying several mist coats, letting the lacquer set up between coats.
I do not agre with the comments made in post 46. I frequently paint lacquer over non-catalyzed polycrillic and polyurethane. As I said, spraying lacquer over latex is an iffy proposition.
I looked up a definition for "AU paints" and came up empty.
As with all comments made on these forums, we have to be careful about what to believe, and what is bs.
This thread is a prime example, as there are conflicting statements being made.
With paint, being safe rather than sorry is the way to go. I suggest that anyone that reads something that they like in this thread, do careful test panels before proceeding to the airframe.
Making a mistake can lead to acdii's "wrinkle finish".
I do not agre with the comments made in post 46. I frequently paint lacquer over non-catalyzed polycrillic and polyurethane. As I said, spraying lacquer over latex is an iffy proposition.
I looked up a definition for "AU paints" and came up empty.
As with all comments made on these forums, we have to be careful about what to believe, and what is bs.
This thread is a prime example, as there are conflicting statements being made.
With paint, being safe rather than sorry is the way to go. I suggest that anyone that reads something that they like in this thread, do careful test panels before proceeding to the airframe.
Making a mistake can lead to acdii's "wrinkle finish".
Last edited by TomCrump; 04-16-2014 at 03:13 PM.