impala1

Hi all. I am looking for props for my G-23.
It is an old engine (at least 10 years old) but never run before. I ran half a tank it tonight runs great so far. It's on a CMP corsair 120, that's long overdo to fly.

I have a 15x7 3 blade master airscrew prop on it, lt looks good but I have no idea if it's the right size.

I'd like to know a good 3 blade and 2 blade for it. What is the difference in performance between them?

Thanks guys

impala1

Forgot to ask, best way to break it in. I'm using a penzoil mix about 33-1. How should I run the first tanks?

Thanks again

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

15x7x3 or 16x8x3 Master Airscrew props are what I typically use on that size of warbird. They fly fine and are durable. As far as oil is concerned, follow the manufacturer directions. Personally, I use 32-1 all the time and prefer a quality synthetic blend.

For break-in, I run it at 3k for about 10 minutes then go to full throttle, set the high-speed needle, and the adjust the low for a clean transition. Then it's time to go fly.

impala1

Thanks Lifer. Nice I will stick with my 3 blade then. I noticed last night when running, I can't get to the high and low needles because they are right behind the prop. I installed the kit that rotated the carb so my linkage would work normally. I guess this is the down side. if I flip plane upsidown I could possibly adjust while running with welding gloves on. If not ill just have to stop to adjust will just take longer.

It seems to be running good, but I'm not seeing as much oil debris as I did when I broke in my DLE 20?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

If you are good at soldering, get a hex-head bolt, cut the threads off, solder a short piece of brass tubing that will both fit tight on the needle valve shaft and the hex-head bolt. When done, you can slip a ball-headed socket driver into the hex-head bolt and adjust the needles from an angle away from the prop.

Clean the metal and remove the paint and such and use a lot of flux. Works great.

impala1

Good idea! Ya I'm good with solder I'm a steam fitter/ plumber.
Do you push the tube over the needle screws, then just drop solder in?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Find a brass tube that is a tight fit to start with, then solder away.

STUKA BARRY

The Zenoah engines are for industrial use, chainsaws, weedeaters, asphalt cutters, etc. They take a very long time to break in, not like the alphabet engines. Stick with a 32:1 mix or 4 oz. per gallon of good air cooled engine oil like Pennzoil, Stihl, Citgo, Lawnboy ashless, etc. The G-23 is not a powerhouse by any means, but it will last a lifetime. They do hand start, but can be temperamental at times. A 16oz. Du-Bro tank will last for a long flight. These engine are a bit heavy which will help with a short nose plane like the Whistling Death. Watch out for Zero's.....

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Breaking in a new or never run G-23? I'd go with a good "wood" two blade prop like a xoar 16 x 8 or 6. You'll get a lot better performance with them instead those heavy inefficient master airscrew 3 bladers. They might not look as cool, but they will develop more power, higher rpm, much crisper throttle response and be a lot more reliable. Once the engine is "broken in" then try out the 3 bladers. You can always paint the two bladers black with yellow tips to make em look better. And by all means, balance the props.

impala1

will do, thanks

impala1

Ok, ill run 2 blade as well and see what happens. I have xoar 17x6s for my dle 20. I will try those if they aren't to big.
I have a couple more questions .
I ran it to tonight and I slightly melted the plug wire on the muffler. I don't see wire but it got it pretty good. Would I be okay just costing it with some electrical rubber and some heat shield.

other question is regarding the g-23 plug boot. It's only rubber. My dle has the metal shroud over the rubber. Am I missing a part?
Thanks guys

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

I'm sure you can repair the wire ok with something. A nice wrap job with electrical tape would probably be ok. Your DLE has electronic ignition and probably runs a CM6 plug that has the resistor in the metal cap which also grounds to the outside of the plug. A G-23 (if it's stock) uses a magneto with a resistor spark plug and doesn't need a metal cap.

impala1

Ok that's good thanks. I was worried about interference from the plug. I'll put hose clamp on the rubber to make sure it stays on. And I'll find some liquid stuff for the wire then wrap it with tape.

dadragon

also try a B&B muffler you will another 100 rpm. the engine is made for rpm not torque so dont get to heavy on the pitch.just a thought.

impala1

impala1

Here is muffler on it now. It's a street 90 and 45 brazed into a can type muffler. It hides fairly well when cowl is on. As far as performance I have no idea how it is?

STUKA BARRY

Although very quiet, that thing is robbing your engine of hp, plus its very heavy. Like suggested above, get yourself a B&B muffler. The work great and still fit inside the cowl of Whistling Death.

impala1

Good to know ill get a B&B. Yes it def keeps the sound down, but engine will need all the help it can get, pretty big airplane. For a 23cc. It's def not punchy like my dle 20, but it runs smoother, and Its not broken in yet either.
Thanks for all the info guys

impala1

Thanks for recommending the b&b muffler, I didnt know they had a pits type for G-23s

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

If your good with brazing copper pipe and noise isn't a concern, just make a straight pipe exhaust. This is a set up I have on a AT-6.

karolh

Zenoah engines like to rev so don't go over propping them. On my G23 I use Xoar 16x8 or a 17x6 if I have sufficient ground clearance, both of which the engine performs well with.

impala1

I like that and it would be free. How loud is it, just more edge or is it extremely loud? That's a hard question to answer. ill just try that with mine and if I don't like it ill get a B&B. Thanks for the idea

impala1

Next time I run a tank through I'm going to try a xoar 17x6 that I have on my dle 20. nice to use similar props to.

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

It's not extremely loud at all. Not any worse than a glow 2 cycle slimmer. A B&B is nothing more than metal box with a pipe or two sticking out of it. They don't have any baffling in them and don't muffle the noise much. An inverted wrap around pitts would be another option. They do muffle the noise some what but they are expensive. This is one that I have on my TFGS corsair.

impala1

Well straight pipe it is! I checked out your planes, nice hanger. Your corsair looks like the real thing coming in to land. Couple questions. How do you like your hangar 9 bolt? I've been debating between that and topflight one. Always been a razor back fan but I do like top flight model as well.

Is your Dr-1 Fokker a Balsa USA kit?