.50sz Tettra N1-K2 Shinden-Kai "George" Build Thread
08-14-2014, 04:43 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Note: Forgot to mention I took it out to the garage today to weigh it with all components ready to fly. It came in at 5.8lbs exactly. That seems pretty good. Not sure how much the glass and paint will add but I still should be good with the weight.
Last edited by chistech; 08-14-2014 at 04:59 PM.
08-16-2014, 03:38 AM
#29
Thread Starter
# 91 was the one I was thinking about with the orange color. I wasn't sure if the color was a little off on my computer. Here is the site that give a decent amount of options including #91. http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/f/1046/65/2
08-16-2014, 05:18 PM
#31
Thread Starter
It does look good with the orange bottom. Funny thing is I also have a NIB Jemco Zero kit to build! How did yours fly? I really like my Jemco PT19 and am told by most that all the Jemco's fly well even the very scaled out P47 razor back. Hopefully we can stay below the one pound on the glass and paint but even the pound I should be ok. I know there's lots of .60 size warbirds flying in the 10lb range. For a .50 size to be in the 6.5-7lb range I should be fine.
When it comes to my builds I usually think I've got my color schemes down and just before we paint I end up finding a scheme that really strikes me and I go a different route. At least I've never been disappointed with my choices so far. With me having a Rufe, Raiden, and Zero to build, the green paint would come in handy. Logic might take over and I'll go with one of the more traditional green combos. We'll see. LOL
When it comes to my builds I usually think I've got my color schemes down and just before we paint I end up finding a scheme that really strikes me and I go a different route. At least I've never been disappointed with my choices so far. With me having a Rufe, Raiden, and Zero to build, the green paint would come in handy. Logic might take over and I'll go with one of the more traditional green combos. We'll see. LOL
08-16-2014, 07:32 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Chad,
Here's some more photos taken of the same Shinden Kai. Thought you might appreciate them. Both of us have got to get to that museum!
Go to this site: http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/n1k/n1k_walk.shtml
Here's some more photos taken of the same Shinden Kai. Thought you might appreciate them. Both of us have got to get to that museum!
Go to this site: http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/n1k/n1k_walk.shtml
08-20-2014, 06:44 AM
#35
Thread Starter
Ordered my green, yellow, and JP insignia faded red from Klass Kote couple days ago. Worked on the gear doors. I make up aluminum mounts on my small milling machine to hold the doors to the strut and I mount the top of the door to the trunnion of the electric retract. I know some might think going through the work of fully sheeting, glassing, then painting that why would I use a set of cheap (less than $16 pr) Hobby King electric retracts. The reason is that I have tested these in many of my ARF's and other builds and they have been holding up extremely well. The aluminum trunnion retracts are great as I can drill and tap the trunnion and have no problems. I don't fly off hardtop but grass and have had virtually no issues with the metal trunnion units.
When looking at photos of the "George" the rear headrest appears to be laminated wood so I made mine the same out of 1/8 balsa crossing every other grain to give it the same look as what I've seen. On the decal sheet that came with the kit is some canopy framework. While I will be painting my canopy's framework, both inside and out, I will use these as templates when masking it off. I have them on now in the pictures as I will be getting ready to mask it off after this weekend. I have another warbird event this Sat. and I will be taking it again.
I copied my new aluminum doors from a set supplied with the kit. Looking at the trailing edge of the door it will definitely hit the ground when the struts are working. I think I'm going to cut off about 1/8" from the whole bottom of the door or at least change the angle some. Still not sure if I will be adding inner doors. Not worried about making them up or hinging them. I'm more concerned with the reliable functionality of them. We'll see.
When looking at photos of the "George" the rear headrest appears to be laminated wood so I made mine the same out of 1/8 balsa crossing every other grain to give it the same look as what I've seen. On the decal sheet that came with the kit is some canopy framework. While I will be painting my canopy's framework, both inside and out, I will use these as templates when masking it off. I have them on now in the pictures as I will be getting ready to mask it off after this weekend. I have another warbird event this Sat. and I will be taking it again.
I copied my new aluminum doors from a set supplied with the kit. Looking at the trailing edge of the door it will definitely hit the ground when the struts are working. I think I'm going to cut off about 1/8" from the whole bottom of the door or at least change the angle some. Still not sure if I will be adding inner doors. Not worried about making them up or hinging them. I'm more concerned with the reliable functionality of them. We'll see.
08-21-2014, 07:09 AM
#36
Thread Starter
Masked off the inside of the canopy for the chromate green interior treatment. Painted a couple coats. Even though its still on the lighter side it's just to add the contrast between the dark green and interior. Made up my laminated headrest/armor plate. Talk about some cheap armoring. I bet a lot of pilots if they didn't die got some serious splinters. Working on inner gear doors now. Need to come up with a simple reliable mechanical operation for them.
Note: If you notice the headrest/armor is different from the first one I made shown in the previous post. I had the lamination going the wrong direction originally.
Note: If you notice the headrest/armor is different from the first one I made shown in the previous post. I had the lamination going the wrong direction originally.
Last edited by chistech; 08-22-2014 at 09:52 AM.
08-22-2014, 05:27 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Worked on the inner doors today. With some thought I ended up designing a system which is very much in line with the full size. The problem I've discovered with manual inner doors is the prop wash will close them. Using the spring loaded control arm hopefully they will stay open without issue. I tried to make it as light and as functional as I could. Luckily I had an assortment of very small screws and nuts to work with.
I used a large Klett hinge some brass tube, soft wire push rod, 0-80 screws, 2-56 screws, and a couple of homemade springs. The pictures are pretty much self explanatory. On the end of the spring loaded control arm where it meets with the door loop you will see a small thin wire. This keeps the control arm from going past center and opening the door too far. The door loop is soft push rod wire flattened with a hammer on a small drill press vise. I then drill the ends for the 2-56 screws. The brass tube is threaded on both ends, flattened in the middle, drilled for the two 0-80 screws coming through the door, hinge, and two washers for spacers.
I needed to make a balsa wedge shaped piece to mount the control arm hinge end to. I used two pieces of 1/64 ply laminated together under the door hinges and control arm hinge to have a solid base to screw the small self tappers into. The gear doors work great. In the pictures I've only got one on but now they are both on. This whole thing took a lot of time planning and figuring out but I believe the results are worth it.
I used a large Klett hinge some brass tube, soft wire push rod, 0-80 screws, 2-56 screws, and a couple of homemade springs. The pictures are pretty much self explanatory. On the end of the spring loaded control arm where it meets with the door loop you will see a small thin wire. This keeps the control arm from going past center and opening the door too far. The door loop is soft push rod wire flattened with a hammer on a small drill press vise. I then drill the ends for the 2-56 screws. The brass tube is threaded on both ends, flattened in the middle, drilled for the two 0-80 screws coming through the door, hinge, and two washers for spacers.
I needed to make a balsa wedge shaped piece to mount the control arm hinge end to. I used two pieces of 1/64 ply laminated together under the door hinges and control arm hinge to have a solid base to screw the small self tappers into. The gear doors work great. In the pictures I've only got one on but now they are both on. This whole thing took a lot of time planning and figuring out but I believe the results are worth it.
08-23-2014, 09:45 AM
#39
Thread Starter
Thanks Chad. Right now it's pretty much ready to go to glassing. Got some pictures of the the two gear doors in place and how it looks with them open and flaps down. Pretty darn good looking. Took a shot of the cavernous fuse also. I put a 10oz tank in also so flight times should be real long if I want them to be. Tried to take a video of them opening and closing with my work Black Berry but I need a Wi-fi subscription and I don't have one through work.
I ended up adding some 3/16 balsa blocks to the control arms so the tire would push against them to pull the inner doors shut. They are both working well. Posted the pic of the full scale door and a picture of my same side door. With some paint details like using black to simulate the ribs of the doors I bet the doors will look pretty close.
I ended up adding some 3/16 balsa blocks to the control arms so the tire would push against them to pull the inner doors shut. They are both working well. Posted the pic of the full scale door and a picture of my same side door. With some paint details like using black to simulate the ribs of the doors I bet the doors will look pretty close.
Last edited by chistech; 08-23-2014 at 09:55 AM.
08-23-2014, 05:02 PM
#41
Thread Starter
( I have so much of the old stuff, push rods, fuel tanks, wheels, etc. from members who have passed that's been given to me. I've got to use it up!)Note: after re-reading this today 8/25/14 I realize that I meant 1/2oz fiberglass cloth and not 2oz. If I used the 2oz it would be real heavy!
Back to the build. I am looking forward to getting it glassed and painted in the next couple weeks. My paint order from Klass Kote will be delivered on Monday and I have a warbird FF tomorrow that I'm taking it to. After that it will all come apart, get a good looking over, some super fine sanding, then the 2oz glass treatment. Gerry and I work together spreading the the resin with old credit cards as squeegees and a heat gun to really thin it out. Using this same method I was able to keep the weight on my BT Kingfisher to a minimum. Best thing about the Klass Kote is it covers extremely well with very light coats, especially the aluminum which the whole bottom will be covered. The Dark JPN Green will be a new color for us and I will report on how well it covers. Between two Rufes, a couple Zeros, and a Raiden, the green will probably get used up pretty well.
Last edited by chistech; 08-25-2014 at 06:16 AM. Reason: Mistake!
08-24-2014, 06:43 PM
#45
Thread Starter
You're right, sorry. I never posted the specs. Here is what's on the box in metric and I converted it to American. The flying weight is a lot higher on mine because of the retracts and metal struts alone. Adding flap, scale ailerons, doors, pilot, etc will get it up around 6.5 to 7lbs. It will fly scale. LOL
LENGTH(mm):1060 41.75”
WING SPAN(mm):1356 53.5”
WING AREA(dm2):30.8
FLYING WEIGHT(kg):2.2～2.3 4.75-5lbs
ENGINE:4C-50
RC:4～5
08-24-2014, 06:48 PM
#46
Thread Starter
Took everything out of the wing tonight to start getting it ready for glassing. Cleaned up the retract bays and wheel wells by adding some wood panels to make it all look better. Will take everything out of the fuse tomorrow and get that ready too. Won't be too long now.
08-24-2014, 09:01 PM
#47
Hi Tim,
You're right, sorry. I never posted the specs. Here is what's on the box in metric and I converted it to American. The flying weight is a lot higher on mine because of the retracts and metal struts alone. Adding flap, scale ailerons, doors, pilot, etc will get it up around 6.5 to 7lbs. It will fly scale. LOL
LENGTH(mm):1060 41.75”
WING SPAN(mm):1356 53.5”
WING AREA(dm2):30.8
FLYING WEIGHT(kg):2.2～2.3 4.75-5lbs
ENGINE:4C-50
RC:4～5
You're right, sorry. I never posted the specs. Here is what's on the box in metric and I converted it to American. The flying weight is a lot higher on mine because of the retracts and metal struts alone. Adding flap, scale ailerons, doors, pilot, etc will get it up around 6.5 to 7lbs. It will fly scale. LOL
LENGTH(mm):1060 41.75”
WING SPAN(mm):1356 53.5”
WING AREA(dm2):30.8
FLYING WEIGHT(kg):2.2～2.3 4.75-5lbs
ENGINE:4C-50
RC:4～5
That will be about 33 oz sq ft. That should fly good at that weight and not flit around like when there to light. Most if my warbirds I have designed have run in the 30-35 oz per sq ft range and work well with out using flaps. Sometimes I think light light light is to much. I have one I drew up a couple of years ago and got it framed up and need to carve a cowl plug for it. It has a span of 59" and is 1/8 scale. Thanks for the specs
Tim
08-25-2014, 05:43 AM
#48
Thread Starter
Hi Tim,
Thanks for those calculations. I believe this is 1/8.8 I believe. You drew up a George, I assuming by your statement? I would love to see it. Take some pics and post it here if you like. I build a lot of the .50sz stuff and like adding the scale details knowing all the time the weight is going up way beyond what people these days think is acceptable. When I read someone's post for instance, about a Jemco FW 190 weighing 5.5lbs and being "heavy" I kind of laugh. Luckily these days, engines are more powerful, servos are half the size, and twice the torque, so I can add weight in other areas still keeping in good flying weight. Yesterday I flew my late 70's designed Kyosho Skyraider that was a kit designed for a .40. I put in HK electric retracts that I modified to rotate 90 and it got a glassed and painted finish. While it will bite you in a turn if it's too sharp and if you're low, as long as you are anticipating it's behavior, all is well. When I built that and stated it was getting glassed, painted, retracts, and an old Enya .46c FS engine, many told me I was crazy and it would need a .60 to fly! It is a small plane and a .60 would be way too much. It is an excellent flyer on the Enya even with all the added weight. Don't know where some get the ideas for this huge power to weight ratio. And like you said, with the heavier wing loading it doesn't get all blown over the sky even though it's quite small. One downfall is the color scheme though. You can loose it pretty easy in a slightly overcast sky!
Thanks for those calculations. I believe this is 1/8.8 I believe. You drew up a George, I assuming by your statement? I would love to see it. Take some pics and post it here if you like. I build a lot of the .50sz stuff and like adding the scale details knowing all the time the weight is going up way beyond what people these days think is acceptable. When I read someone's post for instance, about a Jemco FW 190 weighing 5.5lbs and being "heavy" I kind of laugh. Luckily these days, engines are more powerful, servos are half the size, and twice the torque, so I can add weight in other areas still keeping in good flying weight. Yesterday I flew my late 70's designed Kyosho Skyraider that was a kit designed for a .40. I put in HK electric retracts that I modified to rotate 90 and it got a glassed and painted finish. While it will bite you in a turn if it's too sharp and if you're low, as long as you are anticipating it's behavior, all is well. When I built that and stated it was getting glassed, painted, retracts, and an old Enya .46c FS engine, many told me I was crazy and it would need a .60 to fly! It is a small plane and a .60 would be way too much. It is an excellent flyer on the Enya even with all the added weight. Don't know where some get the ideas for this huge power to weight ratio. And like you said, with the heavier wing loading it doesn't get all blown over the sky even though it's quite small. One downfall is the color scheme though. You can loose it pretty easy in a slightly overcast sky!
08-26-2014, 07:34 AM
#49
LOL. You know I never thought about that but I guess I am really old fashioned aren't I. Well, I don't really need super power and speed on my servos so 6volts isn't a must. I'm not really putting a huge load on the flight surfaces so I don't need to worry about my arrow shaft's flexing. Do you think with all this old school stuff it will fly? Do you know I still fly with just my thumbs on the sticks, not my fore finger and thumb pinching the sticks. Outrageous! ( I have so much of the old stuff, push rods, fuel tanks, wheels, etc. from members who have passed that's been given to me. I've got to use it up!)
Note: after re-reading this today 8/25/14 I realize that I meant 1/2oz fiberglass cloth and not 2oz. If I used the 2oz it would be real heavy!
Back to the build. I am looking forward to getting it glassed and painted in the next couple weeks. My paint order from Klass Kote will be delivered on Monday and I have a warbird FF tomorrow that I'm taking it to. After that it will all come apart, get a good looking over, some super fine sanding, then the 2oz glass treatment. Gerry and I work together spreading the the resin with old credit cards as squeegees and a heat gun to really thin it out. Using this same method I was able to keep the weight on my BT Kingfisher to a minimum. Best thing about the Klass Kote is it covers extremely well with very light coats, especially the aluminum which the whole bottom will be covered. The Dark JPN Green will be a new color for us and I will report on how well it covers. Between two Rufes, a couple Zeros, and a Raiden, the green will probably get used up pretty well.
( I have so much of the old stuff, push rods, fuel tanks, wheels, etc. from members who have passed that's been given to me. I've got to use it up!)Note: after re-reading this today 8/25/14 I realize that I meant 1/2oz fiberglass cloth and not 2oz. If I used the 2oz it would be real heavy!
Back to the build. I am looking forward to getting it glassed and painted in the next couple weeks. My paint order from Klass Kote will be delivered on Monday and I have a warbird FF tomorrow that I'm taking it to. After that it will all come apart, get a good looking over, some super fine sanding, then the 2oz glass treatment. Gerry and I work together spreading the the resin with old credit cards as squeegees and a heat gun to really thin it out. Using this same method I was able to keep the weight on my BT Kingfisher to a minimum. Best thing about the Klass Kote is it covers extremely well with very light coats, especially the aluminum which the whole bottom will be covered. The Dark JPN Green will be a new color for us and I will report on how well it covers. Between two Rufes, a couple Zeros, and a Raiden, the green will probably get used up pretty well.
You might wanna re-think this position if using a modern radio. The 2.4 ghz. stuff has a higher battery requirement. Things have not remained the same for a reason. Just wanted to point that out.
08-26-2014, 11:50 AM
#50
Hi Tim,
Thanks for those calculations. I believe this is 1/8.8 I believe. You drew up a George, I assuming by your statement? I would love to see it. Take some pics and post it here if you like. I build a lot of the .50sz stuff and like adding the scale details knowing all the time the weight is going up way beyond what people these days think is acceptable. When I read someone's post for instance, about a Jemco FW 190 weighing 5.5lbs and being "heavy" I kind of laugh. Luckily these days, engines are more powerful, servos are half the size, and twice the torque, so I can add weight in other areas still keeping in good flying weight. Yesterday I flew my late 70's designed Kyosho Skyraider that was a kit designed for a .40. I put in HK electric retracts that I modified to rotate 90 and it got a glassed and painted finish. While it will bite you in a turn if it's too sharp and if you're low, as long as you are anticipating it's behavior, all is well. When I built that and stated it was getting glassed, painted, retracts, and an old Enya .46c FS engine, many told me I was crazy and it would need a .60 to fly! It is a small plane and a .60 would be way too much. It is an excellent flyer on the Enya even with all the added weight. Don't know where some get the ideas for this huge power to weight ratio. And like you said, with the heavier wing loading it doesn't get all blown over the sky even though it's quite small. One downfall is the color scheme though. You can loose it pretty easy in a slightly overcast sky!
Thanks for those calculations. I believe this is 1/8.8 I believe. You drew up a George, I assuming by your statement? I would love to see it. Take some pics and post it here if you like. I build a lot of the .50sz stuff and like adding the scale details knowing all the time the weight is going up way beyond what people these days think is acceptable. When I read someone's post for instance, about a Jemco FW 190 weighing 5.5lbs and being "heavy" I kind of laugh. Luckily these days, engines are more powerful, servos are half the size, and twice the torque, so I can add weight in other areas still keeping in good flying weight. Yesterday I flew my late 70's designed Kyosho Skyraider that was a kit designed for a .40. I put in HK electric retracts that I modified to rotate 90 and it got a glassed and painted finish. While it will bite you in a turn if it's too sharp and if you're low, as long as you are anticipating it's behavior, all is well. When I built that and stated it was getting glassed, painted, retracts, and an old Enya .46c FS engine, many told me I was crazy and it would need a .60 to fly! It is a small plane and a .60 would be way too much. It is an excellent flyer on the Enya even with all the added weight. Don't know where some get the ideas for this huge power to weight ratio. And like you said, with the heavier wing loading it doesn't get all blown over the sky even though it's quite small. One downfall is the color scheme though. You can loose it pretty easy in a slightly overcast sky!
Here are some pics of it as it sits now.
