chistech

Thanks for the advice VG. I am aware that brownouts can occur but that has seemed to be when very high loads are placed on equipment. I fly only genuine Spektrum receivers in my fuel warbirds and my 4.8v packs are alway high Mah rated. I usually never use less than a 2000mah pack and have never had a brown out from voltage issues. I have checked my receivers to see if they're flashing from a momentary loss of reception and have not had that problem. The electric retracts from HK don't pull much voltage at all even when stalled and the servos I use are standard analog servos which again I believe use less than digital though I might be wrong. My Kingfisher, P47, Pt19 are all flying with 2.4 and are all on 4.8v. I either use 6 or 9 channel Spektrum receivers. I have found switches to be an issue more than voltage with the 2.4 if you can believe that.

chistech

[QUOTE=tdstaf;11868603]Christech you assumed correctly.

https://www.google.com/maps/@41.6413...OkG9gLyjjQ!2e0

Great pictures. Thanks for posting. The 59span and the 1/8 is more to my liking but I was glad to find this kit even if it's a little smaller.

chistech

Worked on cockpit details today. The instrument panel decal that came with the kit is of a Zero and not a George so I looked up the correct panel and printed a few out. I lightly glued a panel onto 1/16 ply and with my Forstner bits cut out the instrument locations. I then glued another new panel down after removing the first one and cut out the instruments with a Xacto knife. With black paint I painted all the hole edges of the instruments. I then glued clear sheet to the back of the 1/16 and then another panel print to the back of the clear plastic. A piece of 1/64 ply make up the last layer. I made the two side pieces of the panel also. Airbrush the whole cockpit interior green. Here are my results. And of course, I'm adding more weight as I typically do.

chistech

More cockpit details. I made my gun sight up also. The George gun sight has a bullet proof glass panel just in front of the sight and just behind the front windscreen. Still needs to be painted flat black and a frame needs to be painted around the bullet proof glass panel. Won't glue and add the cockpit details in permanently until the fuse is all glassed.

chistech

Gotten the majority of this bird glassed with just the small pieces and fin to do yet. We use clear credit cards with a warm heat gun to spread the resin very this. This technique allows you to see just how much resin you're moving by how much builds up on the cards edge. Something you can't see with an opaque card. After the first application of resin, a light sanding with 320, then another coat of just resin, again heated while spreading to fill in the weave. Another 320 sanding, then priming, then sanding again of course. This helps us keep the finish as light as possible. Starting to come along. Also have a picture of another version of a George that I'm going with. Just different colors not seen that often but almost a duplicate to my original plane I wanted to copy.

chistech

Using a new "purple" sandpaper that really cuts and doesn't load up so sanding the first resin/glass coat was easy. A quick wash down with Acetone to clean all dust off. Started putting the second coat down on the wing and fuse. Using the credit card and warming with the hairdryer a little resin goes a long way. Holding the wing at an angle to the light you can see the weave filling really nice with this thin skim coat. Any resin left over goes into the areas with a brush to seal the wood where there's not going to be any glass like the flap area, firewall, etc. Finished glassing the small pieces and they later got sanded of the excess glass on the edges. Once everything is done with the second/fill coat of resin another sanding will be done on everything and then the big spray gun comes out for the priming of it all to fill any weave or voids no filled by the resin. Then as we all know, lots and lots of sanding.

chistech

I haven't been able to find much on this plane and kit mfg. (Tangiku) especially about how if flies. I just found a video posted on an old thread. It shows the .50 sz. Hein and the Shinden Kai flying. The flying site is pretty lousy and so is the actual filming but both aircraft seem to fly nicely. Of course the Shinden Kai is in it's stock form and not modified like mine but at least it's promising. I have also found other threads where people own or have owned other Tangiku models and everyone claims they fly extremely well. Here is the link to the video: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...Fki61_N1K2.wmv

chistech

Parts have been primed and I sanded the fuse today. Tomorrow is a full day into the night between work and training a team roping horse for a friend so there will be no sanding done. Will get back to it on Friday.

chistech

Everything was completely sanded over the last two days. The parts will all get a going over to address any spots that might of got burned through during the sanding or places where there still might be need for more resin. Made it up and over the hill and headed home now. Once the small issues are addressed the stab and fin will get epoxied in place to get it ready for paint. My buddy Gerry is re-working the pilot to make him more lifelike also. Sorry, forgot to get pictures of everything today.

chistech

If anyone is interested I have connections and can tell you how to purchase these kits direct from Japan. This kit direct from the cheapest hobby shop I found to ship to the USA is $204. Not bad for a kit of this quality. They have a nice P51, Zero, Hayate, Hein, ME 109. Rufe, Zuin float plane, etc. Those are just the war birds. The Hayate (Frank), Rufe, and the Zero are also available in the 90fs size also. Most have flaps but the Shinden Kai did not.
Here is the English website for you. Send them an inquiry by email and they will answer in a day or so. http://ishii-mokei.heteml.jp/eng/abouts/ From this page you can look at everything they have.

chistech

I really like these high quality kits and I'm addicted. I wanted to put this one in my stable and I ordered it today. It is the Hayate or "Frank" as the allies called it. $203 delivered to my door, 50sz again. They also make this in a 90fs size also. The Youtube link is of a ESM ARF but I like the color scheme: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k42a7Gnud8 Got to get the Shinden Kai done first! Then I think it will be my Devastator float plane.

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Awesome,, did you order over the phone or via the web site? I see something I might have to have

chistech

Hi tom,
I emailed the owner of the shop. He is a good guy and easy to understand his wording. He works very fast and the sale went through in a couple days of correspondence. They are awake when we sleep it seems as all his live emails came at 10pm EST and later. I will PM you with his private email. His name is Hirotaka. I'm supposed to have my kit on the 17th or 18th which is only 3-4days! It was that fast when I bought the shinden kai also.

Ted

chistech

Here's a video of the Tangiku (Tettra) 90fs sz Rufe flying. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqZQiAf03qo

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needs flaps,

chistech

It's listed as 5 channel, 6 servos. Float plane so no retracts. I assume the builder in the video either didn't put them in or the pilot never deployed them.

chistech

Got a message this morning from Japan Post that my "Frank" has left Tokyo International Airport and headed here to the US. Fast service. Now lets see how fast the USPS is with it!

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Just sent him an email

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ouch,, the 90 size must be more costly to ship,

Nishiki Suisen 90 30,030yen
S/H (Priority Mail Express) 12,200yen
Credit card charge 2,112yen
----------------
Total: 44,342yen

He did get back quickly,,,, I'll have to think about it

chistech

I am currently talking with one of my company's vendors who ships machinery from Japan to MN, USA. He is going to find out about putting some kits in their container. I might actually consider buying a bunch of these kits to sell here in US if there is interest. I won't be face to face with him until the end of the month. His family doesn't live far from Tangiku's mfg. plant and home office. Do you think there might be some interest in these kits here?

chistech

Finished all the spot putty sanding and the touch up resining. You can see the small areas where the red spot putty remains in the low spots and areas where the 2nd coat of resin didn't quite fill the glass web. Put the wing on the fuse to test the fit and need to do a little sanding of the leading edge dowels. Next on tap is the cockpit. Details will be painted (pilot, gun sight) then glued securely in place. Then we make a small ridge to glue the canopy edges to out of automotive bondo. Once the cockpit is finished then the stab will get glued on along with the upper fuse tail cone. The seams will get filled and spot puttied then any questionable area with be primed once more and sanded. Finally the main colors will go on. Gerry stripped all the paint from the pilot I bought, sanded and scraped him down to remove an almost paper mache' look it had. He will be painting him tomorrow and giving the goggles the resin lens for that "glassy" look.

chistech

Well the Frank didn't arrive yesterday but this morning I got notified by email that it was out for delivery. 4 days from Japan to my door! Can't get better than that. Pictures coming soon.

chistech

The "Frank" has arrived! It came double boxed and not a dent in the cardboard which is amazing considering it came through the USPS. It was held by the USPS for almost 2 days in NY or I would have had it yesterday. Shipping is incredibly fast. As far as the kit goes it is exactly like the Shinden Kai. Perfectly straight wood, notched hard balsa spars, pre-curved, steam bent fuse sides, 3 sheets of decals(self adhesive), quality plans in Japanese, and the clear cowling. Tangiku is smart in that they use one box for two different models. How they glue the end flaps of the box cover determines which model it's for. Again, like the Shinden Kai, it's designed for up to 5 channels so flaps will have to be designed in. Construction design and build technique is also identical with fuse formers die cut but the die cutting resembles what one sees today with laser cutting. This Frank kit has also been designed by Mr. Tangiku. The thing nice about these kits is the fuselages are kept in line with their full size counterpart in that the fuse bottoms, if rounded on the full scale, are rounded on the model. So many 40-50 sz kits and ARF's like Kyosho's are square edged from the bottom to the fuse sides.

chistech

Started on the cockpit area today now that the fuse glassing and spot putty is all done. We make up a border of automotive body filler at the base of the cockpit area. This allows us to epoxy the canopy to the fuse with more contact area. The canopy is centered on the fuse and then a line is drawn around the canopy. Blue painter's tape is applied on the line made from the fine line magic marker. A second border of painter's tape is applied 1/8' inside of the outer tape. The inside of the canopy edge gets a coat of Vaseline to prevent the canopy from sticking to the body filler. The filler is mixed up and put along the 1/8th area within the taped border. Once the body filler is down then the canopy is put in place and held down firmly while the filler starts to set. Once the filler has set but still is somewhat soft, the filler border is trimmed down to an even height and width. After a sanding of this filler border the canopy is ready to be epoxied down once everything in the cockpit is done. Pilot, pilot seat, and gun sight will be worked on next.

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interesting technique,,