Yellow Aircraft P-40 Build
12-19-2014, 11:03 PM
#28
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Threw the engine up in the cowl to see how it would fit. Seems to fit pretty well! I am contemplating how I am going to be routing the exhaust right now. Unsure at this point if I will take it right out of the bottom with a straight pipe, or build a muffler in the back of the cowling.
12-20-2014, 07:26 PM
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12-21-2014, 10:35 AM
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12-21-2014, 05:09 PM
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The motor box is pretty much ready to go in now. Had to trim quite a bit from the top of the bulk heads to get the centerline of the motor box to line up so that the spinner back plate lined up correctly with the fuselage. I got the cowl mounted this morning. Almost finished with the horizontal stab and elevator before I glass it.
Next week should be a great build week, have 11 days off of work for the holidays. I'll get the motorbox mounted and finish the main wing. Hopefully should have the control surfaces completed as well.
Oh, and I'm going to fire up the engine on a test stand as well!
12-27-2014, 10:56 AM
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I got the engine box mounted into the plane. The spinner is nicely gapped away from the fuselage about 1/16" and even all the way around and the engine has plenty of room within the cowling. Decided to throw the wing on it real quick and put it on the landing gear to see what it would look like with the prop on it. I approve.
Decided to throw the wing on it real quick and put it on the landing gear to see what it would look like with the prop on it. I approve.
I'm going to try and get the horizontal stab glassed and installed in the next few days as well as get the ailerons and flaps finished up. Hopefully the exterior will be near finished and ready for paint in the next couple of weeks.
Decided to throw the wing on it real quick and put it on the landing gear to see what it would look like with the prop on it. I approve.
I'm going to try and get the horizontal stab glassed and installed in the next few days as well as get the ailerons and flaps finished up. Hopefully the exterior will be near finished and ready for paint in the next couple of weeks.
01-03-2015, 10:15 PM
#39
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I had a slight setback this last week on my build, as I was glassing the flaps I did not realize one of them had a pretty severe warp to it that will not allow the flap to sit flush in the wing. I'm either going to have to find a way to straighten the flap as is, or get a new piece of balsa and shape it. I wish I would have caught it prior to glassing it...
03-15-2015, 05:31 PM
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Been really busy the last couple months and haven't had much of an opportunity to work on the P-40 since new years. However, this weekend I was able to get up to the shop to do a little work. My dad and I set up the Kolm EZ65 on a test stand and got her running!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTNzCeHOb8&feature=youtu.be I have to do a little tuning on it, as of right now it's only turning around 4400 rpms with a 24x10 prop, should be up closer to 5500. It is pretty easy to start and runs great as it is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTNzCeHOb8&feature=youtu.be I have to do a little tuning on it, as of right now it's only turning around 4400 rpms with a 24x10 prop, should be up closer to 5500. It is pretty easy to start and runs great as it is.
06-02-2015, 09:59 PM
#42
06-04-2015, 12:32 PM
#44
Hi
I think the mods would be significant. The YA gear is much wider and flatter. You'd probably be carving out a lot of ply and building up new rails. I guess it could be done...
I think the mods would be significant. The YA gear is much wider and flatter. You'd probably be carving out a lot of ply and building up new rails. I guess it could be done...
06-04-2015, 05:35 PM
#46
CJM?!??!!?!?!?!?!?!?
Dude, BITE YOUR TONGUE!!!!!!!!
No. They're home-grown YA gear. CJM? LOL, if I see "CJM" anywhere in a 'for sale' ad, I stop reading and move on. These gear have three major differences from CJM. 1. They retract when you push the button.; 2. They deploy when you push the button the other way.; 3. The shocks work in spite of side-load. Oh, and 4. They don't look like someone made them in their 8th grade metal-shop class.
Maybe Chico can post some pics?
Dude, BITE YOUR TONGUE!!!!!!!!
No. They're home-grown YA gear. CJM? LOL, if I see "CJM" anywhere in a 'for sale' ad, I stop reading and move on. These gear have three major differences from CJM. 1. They retract when you push the button.; 2. They deploy when you push the button the other way.; 3. The shocks work in spite of side-load. Oh, and 4. They don't look like someone made them in their 8th grade metal-shop class.
Maybe Chico can post some pics?
06-05-2015, 05:43 AM
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Next time I'm at the shop I'll get some better pictures of them for you Chris. The YA gear is quite stout for this bird! I need to get busy busting my a*s on this thing and get it finished!
06-07-2015, 02:16 AM
#50
My Feedback: (15)
Obviously with your flap it will be difficult to change the shape because of the glass. However you still may be able to change it .
I am P40 nut and have seen all kinds of slight to severe issues with split flaps. So this is what I have done , if the glass is still permiable soak it in warm water as much as possible, then get two good very straight pieces of either plastic , or birch, or even medal, you can get any of these or similar from HomeDepo, Lowes ect. Use your imagination when looking for these items as you may have them in your home. The purpose of the flat long items is to place one of the top wing /and or detached flap, and one on the bottom wing and or detached flap. If the flaps are attached the material will allow you to clamp them wet to the wing top and bottom. The material will keep the flap perfactly formed to the wing cavaity while its clamped ( top and bottom ) and protect your wings from the clamps.
I found in many flaps even slight warps are annoying so I have used this method to correct small and larger warps.
If any of this sounds like too much effort Chad sells incredibly detailed flaps for the P40 every well worth the small token he asks for them.
I am P40 nut and have seen all kinds of slight to severe issues with split flaps. So this is what I have done , if the glass is still permiable soak it in warm water as much as possible, then get two good very straight pieces of either plastic , or birch, or even medal, you can get any of these or similar from HomeDepo, Lowes ect. Use your imagination when looking for these items as you may have them in your home. The purpose of the flat long items is to place one of the top wing /and or detached flap, and one on the bottom wing and or detached flap. If the flaps are attached the material will allow you to clamp them wet to the wing top and bottom. The material will keep the flap perfactly formed to the wing cavaity while its clamped ( top and bottom ) and protect your wings from the clamps.
I found in many flaps even slight warps are annoying so I have used this method to correct small and larger warps.
If any of this sounds like too much effort Chad sells incredibly detailed flaps for the P40 every well worth the small token he asks for them.
Last edited by LDM; 06-07-2015 at 02:18 AM.
