Kolm 135 install in CARF Mustang
#126
You are right. The nipples are for crankcase pressure and oil.
And yes, götz is building 3 spitfire with kolm engines. We had mail contact about it.
Installation of cooling is similar to mustang. I can send you photos about it
tom
And yes, götz is building 3 spitfire with kolm engines. We had mail contact about it.
Installation of cooling is similar to mustang. I can send you photos about it
tom
#127
Tom, thank you! Very valuable information, just what I need.
It looks to me that you have directed the cooling air around each sylinder, by splitting the "in"-air, so each sylinder gets cooled from air with the same temperature (so that nr 2 sylinder is not cooled with air already warmed by nr 1 sylinder). Am I correct?
DrScoles, the tempsensors (all telemetry sensors) need a designated "slot". You can compare it to a servo needing a "channel"
I too have the 18mz, and you need to take a look in the 18mz manual, chapter "telemetry" It is explained step by step. That said, I needed some trail and error myself before I understood how to give each sensor each own slot My three sensors are all connected to the sbus2 connection on the 7008 rx, using one y-cabel into another y-cabel. Basically, you just add them together, or solder your own cabel till you get all the connectors you need for your number of senors.... ( boy, I hope this makes sense).
I also use a optical rpm sensor, very useful for inflight feedback and idle running, especially for a "beginner" as me (I am a turbine guy with limited experience and knowledge about gas engines, slowly getting there)....
My Carf Spit was bought 2nd hand from a fellow that lost interest in the project almost before it got started. Not much done when I bought it, but a 3W 75 engine was mounted with a cooling hole (a bit large to my liking) already cut in the cowling. I may end up closing it, and cutting a new one, but I wait until the Kolm 135 is mounted.
I have not decided what colour/scheme I will go for, I might even keep the stock silver... But that belongs in another thread maybe? Or is it ok (you ar the OP) to post pictures of the spit as well?
Thanks for the info about the brass nipples.
Kim
It looks to me that you have directed the cooling air around each sylinder, by splitting the "in"-air, so each sylinder gets cooled from air with the same temperature (so that nr 2 sylinder is not cooled with air already warmed by nr 1 sylinder). Am I correct?
DrScoles, the tempsensors (all telemetry sensors) need a designated "slot". You can compare it to a servo needing a "channel"
I too have the 18mz, and you need to take a look in the 18mz manual, chapter "telemetry" It is explained step by step. That said, I needed some trail and error myself before I understood how to give each sensor each own slot My three sensors are all connected to the sbus2 connection on the 7008 rx, using one y-cabel into another y-cabel. Basically, you just add them together, or solder your own cabel till you get all the connectors you need for your number of senors.... ( boy, I hope this makes sense).
I also use a optical rpm sensor, very useful for inflight feedback and idle running, especially for a "beginner" as me (I am a turbine guy with limited experience and knowledge about gas engines, slowly getting there)....
My Carf Spit was bought 2nd hand from a fellow that lost interest in the project almost before it got started. Not much done when I bought it, but a 3W 75 engine was mounted with a cooling hole (a bit large to my liking) already cut in the cowling. I may end up closing it, and cutting a new one, but I wait until the Kolm 135 is mounted.
I have not decided what colour/scheme I will go for, I might even keep the stock silver... But that belongs in another thread maybe? Or is it ok (you ar the OP) to post pictures of the spit as well?
Thanks for the info about the brass nipples.
Kim
Last edited by kimhey; 11-29-2014 at 09:28 AM.
#128
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (18)
Kim, there are three different places in the manual for the 18mz that talks about telemetry... I saw the first two, missed the last. You saying it was all in there helped. Did you make Y lead and plug the sensors into the back of the TX to program the slot? Do we even need to use the 8 digit ID number thats on them like when we program servos for the Robbe 2018?
Feel free to post pics of your spit here, easier for me to find them ;-)
Feel free to post pics of your spit here, easier for me to find them ;-)
#129
Kim!
pics of my spitfire and the cooling you can find on page 1 and 2 !
i have also photos of my installation of the Il135. I fixed the engine only at the back, no stabilisation in the front.
Tom
pics of my spitfire and the cooling you can find on page 1 and 2 !
i have also photos of my installation of the Il135. I fixed the engine only at the back, no stabilisation in the front.
Tom
#130
Yes DrScoles, I took a y-lead and plugged it into the back of my precious 18mz, plugged a sensor AND a 2s LiFe battery all together. I then followed the instructions in the manual and what was on the screen, and after a while I got it right. I am not sure, but I think I recall that there was some discrepancy between the manual and what was actually displayed on the 18mz's display. It may have something to do with the software update I did on my 18mz recently vs. the printed manual.... No biggie, but enough to get me off track for a few seconds
8 digit number.... I am pretty sure I didn't deal with that, but I did rename each temp sensor. Simply temp1 and temp2. Would be more "proffesional" to name them "temp high" and "temp low", but you know how it is.... My head is often overloaded when I deal with this section of my hobby. I still feel better and more confident installing a big engine for the first time, than fiddeling with software related issues on my TX. I guess it is an age thing (and I am "just" 40 yrs old).
8 digit number.... I am pretty sure I didn't deal with that, but I did rename each temp sensor. Simply temp1 and temp2. Would be more "proffesional" to name them "temp high" and "temp low", but you know how it is.... My head is often overloaded when I deal with this section of my hobby. I still feel better and more confident installing a big engine for the first time, than fiddeling with software related issues on my TX. I guess it is an age thing (and I am "just" 40 yrs old).
#131
It feels you are reading my mind Tom, and know which questions I am going to ask..... 2 hrs ago, when I was eating dinner with my family, I was thinking whether it is sufficient to just secure the engine at the firewall, or if I need to make extentions and support the engine at the front as well. I was unsure how much the tourqe from the engine would make the engine move/shift in relation to the cowling/spinner.
Tom, feel free to answer any other questions you think I am going to ask))))
Tom, feel free to answer any other questions you think I am going to ask))))
#132
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (18)
Kim, thanks for the tips on the telemetry… it took longer to make the Y harness than to program them! I just reread your post, where are you putting the optical RPM sensor? It has to see the prop right? My only thought is putting it in the scoop. I have one of the futaba optical RPM sensors that I planned on using for my corsair.
Last edited by DrScoles; 11-29-2014 at 08:52 PM.
#133
DrScoles, that is definately the bestlooking powerbox I have seen! Where did you get that one?
You are right, the optical sensor has to see the prop, with a max distance of 12" if I remember correctly. My La-7/Moki 150 has the rpm sensor installed at the bottom of the cowling (round as the Corsair), so an easy install. On the Spitfire, I haven't given it much thought yet, but the intake would probably be a good position as you say. A scoop cover on the left side of the cowling will also hide the small rpm sensor. I have seen pictures of Spitfires with and without scoops, so scale look would be maintained.
You are right, the optical sensor has to see the prop, with a max distance of 12" if I remember correctly. My La-7/Moki 150 has the rpm sensor installed at the bottom of the cowling (round as the Corsair), so an easy install. On the Spitfire, I haven't given it much thought yet, but the intake would probably be a good position as you say. A scoop cover on the left side of the cowling will also hide the small rpm sensor. I have seen pictures of Spitfires with and without scoops, so scale look would be maintained.
Last edited by kimhey; 11-30-2014 at 03:42 AM.
#134
My rpm sensor is in the intake. I have a late version of spitfire so i have the big one. This is also good for cooling. I use the hole in the front and the air from the cooler to cool my engine. So the hole in the front have not to be so big.
Tom
Tom
#135
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (18)
Kim, thats the Robbe 2018 battery backer. Not sure why its not more popular here. The big deal with this one... You have a heavy gauge lead going out from it, and you can program either sbus or regular servos with some software and plug the servo into the lead anywhere you want. Makes installs super clean. So, you have four of these leads and then 8 channels to plug directly into the box. It will take any battery, and push out four different voltages. The CARF P-47 I bought came with one, and then I've bought two more on RCU that people decided not to use. The little nodes are expensive, but I love the flexibility it offers. Its a little easier to setup than a power box IMO, once you figure out the computer stuff. Now that power box has some sbus options, I'll probably use them more.
One plug in for each wing, makes it hard to get plugs mixed up ;-)
One plug in for each wing, makes it hard to get plugs mixed up ;-)
#140
Well... The difference is a bit more then 15cc.
In il135 you have 30x14 2blade. On il150 you have 30x16 2blade. And this with a little more rpm on ground. So, 15cc are not able to do this. But the weight is fact.
The model will decide who is faster. P51 is faster then spitfire.
You see the difference in climbing up.
Did i post the video of the 2p51 with il135 and my spit with il150?
In il135 you have 30x14 2blade. On il150 you have 30x16 2blade. And this with a little more rpm on ground. So, 15cc are not able to do this. But the weight is fact.
The model will decide who is faster. P51 is faster then spitfire.
You see the difference in climbing up.
Did i post the video of the 2p51 with il135 and my spit with il150?
#143
http://youtu.be/vOE2cLRRdLI
/12 is to less. You will have no speed. Remember that this is not a 2stroke with high rpm.
4blade will word, but it costs power. Of course you have enough with a il150.
And dont use gfk or cfk props. Wood is here the better choice. They will make a fine noise in flight.
The il150 works fine with a 28/16 fiala prop.
/12 is to less. You will have no speed. Remember that this is not a 2stroke with high rpm.
4blade will word, but it costs power. Of course you have enough with a il150.
And dont use gfk or cfk props. Wood is here the better choice. They will make a fine noise in flight.
The il150 works fine with a 28/16 fiala prop.
#144
Here at 5:20 you hear a il135 with perfekt setup. It my friend Tom Bogner from germany.
Its a Fiala prop with 28x14 3blade.
http://youtu.be/swt3NBHlS2Y
Its a Fiala prop with 28x14 3blade.
http://youtu.be/swt3NBHlS2Y
#146
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Here at 5:20 you hear a il135 with perfekt setup. It my friend Tom Bogner from germany.
Its a Fiala prop with 28x14 3blade.
http://youtu.be/swt3NBHlS2Y
Its a Fiala prop with 28x14 3blade.
http://youtu.be/swt3NBHlS2Y
#148
Ok here goes...pictures of my Carf Spitfire/Kolm 135 installation (and a few mandatory cockpit shots as well) Still lots to do, but I am getting there
I needed to mount the engine, so I can begin the baffling job/construction (which I must admit, is giving me "headache", as I have never done an inline engine before). I will copy fellow modellers solutions, based on pictures in this thread. There is not much room between the engine and the cowling at certain spots. I will make the left/right side panels of the cowling removable for easier access/maintainance.
I needed to mount the engine, so I can begin the baffling job/construction (which I must admit, is giving me "headache", as I have never done an inline engine before). I will copy fellow modellers solutions, based on pictures in this thread. There is not much room between the engine and the cowling at certain spots. I will make the left/right side panels of the cowling removable for easier access/maintainance.
#150
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (18)
Damn, that might fit easier than in the mustang! I love the spit, not as keen on the mustang…. Kim, could you have supported it on the front end if you wanted to? I really like the way Hans set up the mounting on the mustang, Seems very secure and will dampen vibration.
Mine is out of the shop getting painted, can't wait to assemble the engine once its back.
Mine is out of the shop getting painted, can't wait to assemble the engine once its back.