DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Craig, I thought that also. My only reasoning is the placement of the exhaust might pre-heat the air before it goes past the cylinders? But then it would make sense to have the exhaust going the other way right??? LOL

kimhey

If it is acceptable is something I also would like to know. My Moki runs at 120-125C (250-260F), and that has worked great so far. I am pretty sure that I red somewhere that the Kolm can run as high as 145-150C (290-300F), but I canīt find it again. I would like to have that confirmed, as I think that is very high...

To my understanding, the Kolm engines are run-in at the factory. Your question got me interested in getting that confirmed as well.


Thomas, are you there ?

kimhey

To adjust the H and L needles easily with the cowling completely on, I installed small cf tubes, to guide the screwdriver. I also did this on my Moki/Lavochkin 7, and it simplifies the adjustment greatly.

Ixtrim

Hello! Back again.
Painted my BF109 the Last days. So ... No time for RCU.

First: mY Spitfire with IL 150 was Running with cool air in On Carb side. Worked as well as from the other side with One difference: no Isolation on carbs needed. An Of course the intake have to be a little bigger, becaus You need air for cooling And for carbs.


then: mY Kolm went Up to 180 degree when cooling Wasn't perfekt aT starting Testing. No problem for the engine.
150/160 degree should be No problem for alltime-Running.
50 degree difference maybe Is No problem. But it's Not good.
If You do some Trys in flight you can have 20 degrees or less. Needs time to test an some modification of your cooling.
Important: dont Handle the temp-difference with the carb needle. Both carbs should be adjusted same.
How to do i told a Few posts behind.

kimhey

Successful maiden today!

In flight:
Sylinder temp no1 around 110 (+/-10)
Sylinder temp no2 around 100 (+/-10)

BUT, as you will hear in the (poor) video, the engine runs too rich, so the temperatures will maybe change as I get the engine tuned in.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=80qCjVnV-v8


Now I can get on with the scale details and try to choose a colour scheme

Ixtrim

Congratulatios!!
you are Right. Your engine is Very much to Rich !!!
I know with 4stroke engines it's hard to find Out in the ground if the needles are Right adjusted.

What prop have you mounted ? So i can Tell you how much rpm
you should have on ground.

Your temp is Very good. Difference also. Will get higher of course. But No Problem.

kimhey

Thanks Thomas! I must dedicate some of my success to you, as your knowledge and experience has been of enormous value to me. I have not installed the rpm sensor yet, but I have it and will install it soon. I used a Biela 28x14 today, but are about to drill/mount a Fiala 30x14 now. If you have best rpm for both, it will be nice.

Kim

Ixtrim

No Problem! like to see your success!

biela i donīt know... i donīt like them :-)

Fiala 30/14 2 Blade 5000-5100 rpm
Fiala 28/14 3 Blade 4700 rpm ... both on ground. in flight about 1300 plus

tom

kimhey

Happy now Tom ?

perttime

Congratulations!
She seems to fly well.

For color schemes... Everybody else already has a Spitfire in camo. Maybe pick something different? Desert Pink? Red or silver target tug scheme? One of various civilian schemes?

Ixtrim

So much better

which scheme you have Chosen?

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Here's one for you.

perttime

Claveworks might have a few more schemes that are of interest to us who like what-if stuff

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

If i was building a spitty, I would totally do this scheme even if it's not real.
A perfect flat black finish with gold paint would be Bad ASS!!!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

+1!
Cool fantasy scheme, just paint the pilots helmet like Senna!

Or for a more scale look do the one black wing underside.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Congrats Kim! Looking forward to hearing/seeing video with the engine tuned in.

kimhey

Thanks, me too

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I got some heat shield from summit racing. Says it will take 1000 degrees direct and reflect 80% of radiant heat. They have it in sleeves. blanket, and even adhesive tape. I ended up not using the blanket, I just cut the sleeve lengthwise and it was a good fit to adapt around the carbs. Of course I forgot to isolate the fuel nipples after I did it, duh.... no biggie. I used safety wire here and there to keep it together. I'll wrap the exhaust as well, but haven't cut them yet. Any suggestions on if it should be loose or tight? I'm leary of wrapping this stuff tightly around the exhaust, seems like having an air layer in between would be safer.

Bumble.bee78

My Feedback: (11)

Hi I have the CARF Spitfire which I've been flying for 3 yrs. I made it into the 3W17 scheme. Now I am ready to add cannons and guns to the wings. Can anyone point me in the right direction or where i can find them. i hope to change my 3w 85xi to the Kolm IL 150 in the near future.

kimhey

I wraped the insulation tight around the exhausts.

Ixtrim

Very good!
That will work!

Tom

kimhey

I flew the C-arf Spitfire/Kolm 135il some more today, and still have engine tuning issues as on the maiden flight. The engine runs rough, and I canīt get more than 4200-4300 on ground with the Fiala 30x14. The H needles are set to 1 1/2 turn out as per the manual, and I try to lean both carbs the same, but I end up either too rich, or the engine dies...
The L needles are left at 1 3/4, and the Idle is "ok" at 900rpm.

On my Moki 150, it is "easy" to adjust the carb, but I am really struggling to get my Kolm dialed in.


ANY help is appreciated!


Kim

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Hey Greg Wright... PM sent to you....

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

When I tuned my own 92 Kawasaki ZX7 750 and I synced the carbs I used a flow meter to balance 4 carbs at once. I have not seen any way so far to sync the multi carb engines from any make in this hobby. Even if you had to do it one at a time it would be great to do so you know that each cylinder is doing.

Ixtrim

Kim!

I canīt really say what the problem is.
H needle 1 /3/4 is to rich, you are right. what fuel do you use ?

take sure that both carbs are doing 100% at full throttle ( look at the carbs where the ball links are connected)

tom